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Thanks, got it apart and installed new wire. Easy when you understand how it comes apart. Now onto the CAS retrofit.

I put up a junction box with constant hot, switched hot and ground near the fire wall. The white/red wires going to fuse box were connected to hot. Make sure you have it fused.

I tore all of that stuff out you probably won't need it with a RB. Download fsm and check what wires feed your fuse box. My fuse box is for lights and signals. The engine has new wiring kind of separate from the car.

Been probing with small picks even needle size, cannot feel a clip or pin to free connection. Am I missing something? Not sure what that particular fitting looks like, is there a clip on side next to wire when detached the entire piece goes through front of plug?

I was worried it would be damaged with a pick, it wasn't moving. Will look again to see if a different tool will work.

I have decided to change out stock ecu and increase fuel flow with larger injectors, rail and better delivery system. The MAF is changed to MAP sensors, and wideband and serial gauge. Pictures soon to follow. The wiring is going well with one question? The switch input pins require grounds according to the installation manual. The A/C switch input pin #46 is cut flush with harness plug and I am having problems removing it from plug to replace with new wire. The AEM book calls it switch 6. Can I leave the wire cut and not ground it? If not is there a tool to replace the wire and pin on the plug? AEM has not been to helpful so far but I am still learning the site. Thank you

Call VR racing in Bakersfield they have a few skylines and RB engines in cars. Maybe they can help. McKinney works on RBs also south side LA.

My CJ5 304 engine was wore out. Replaced it with a 360.AMC from the junkyard replaced seals, mains, rings, valvejob and cam. It was a HUGE difference in power, everything bolts up same as blocks are identical, 360 is just a big bore 304..

A few years ago my coilovers cost $400 with springs. Not difficult to install, huge choice of spring rates.

I have used CX for a few fittings and a surge tank, good quality.

A little off topic, my speedhut GPS speedo does 0 to 60 times, and more. Somewhat helpful in tuning and is fun.

With a little work speedhut gauges mount on the stock housings. Work well and look great.

Thanks, maybe I'll go with AEM it will work with my AEM boost control. Should be simple though not as cheap as I would like. Anyone using AEM management?

Good post wizard, mtnickel. I am ready to use standalone if stock system cannot work. One question? Do the honeycomb air straighteners that mtnickel suggests work? My system has long runs of piping from front of intercooler to MAFs. The MAFs are 18 and 12 inches from turbos with a bend or two. Seems to work okay, but I want better. Have a good radiator and fan system, everything runs cool. The problem my build has is inconsistency, Idles great, runs great. Next time high idle, miss at high rpm. Haven't found anything loose yet or air leaks. Perhaps air temperature differences as my intake slightly blocks my FMIC. The air entering MAFs should be cool. When car is behaving badly it seems to be a lean condition though not positive. Anyone else having these issues?

I suggest checking voltage with a meter.