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Showing results for tags 'rb20'.
Found 8 results
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Hi there i have looked a bit everyone and dont know quite whats wrong and how to get my speedo working. My dash cluster is new and 100% working. But still my speedo doesnt move i was told its due to having a rb20det tranny which uses a mechanical speedo while the cars rb25 requires an electrical speedo. I was told that by putting in a rb20e r33 speedo drive would resolve this . Im not too sure on how accurate this is and Id like any tips or ways to resolve the issue. Preferably not too expensive. Im sure many people have done this b4 looking for how to get the speedo working again . (NOTE : previous owners dropped the 20det gbox in , i was told its a small issue but more i looked into it after buying most mechanics have suggested putting in a rb25det bigbox, i dont see the need as the gbox is tight and strong and I am running no modes all stock factory 100,000kms. engine 60,000km tranny ) -
Hi everyone, I have swapped rb20 into 280zx 1983turbo. The stock speedometer was straight forward mechanical outputs, but I don’t know how to modify stock tachometer to take a rb20 signal . Any advice is appreciated as always
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Hi everyone, I have swapped rb20 into 280zx 1983turbo. The stock speedometer was straight forward mechanical outputs, but I don’t know how to modify stock tachometer to take a rb20 signal . Any advice is appreciated as always
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OK, So heres what im dealing with right now. My rb20 is having some weird issues running, Idle is good at a 14.7 AFR but under load/driving is where I get problems. Upon initial acceleration or low rpm`s the engine has little power and runs like its missing a cylinder or two with afr`s dipping into the 10`s then as boost comes on it runs normal for a bit like it should with afr`s towards 12-13`s and as the rpm`s raise and I hit full boost it will sputter and pop as it leans all the way out untill my wideband cant go any higher (18+ afr`s). So far I have checked everything manually and also through nistune and I still cant figure it out. Here is my current setup: Stock RB20DET and stock turbo Z32 MAF Nistune chipped ECU RB26 444CC injectors (and resistor wired into the harness) Walbro 255 fuel pump Nismo FPR AEM Wideband I have checked the timing and its at 15 deg. Fuel pump has good power and ground. All injectors are opening/closing. All coilpacks work (I pulled them with the plugs and spun the CAS to double check). ECU dosent pull any codes. Fuel pressure isn`t dropping off. TPS voltage is good. Plugs look good and are gapped to the reccomended .8, The MAF readings look linear and accurate from what I can tell through nistune. If I go into nistune and bump up the fuel it just runs richer in the lower rpm`s and still leans out and pops. The only things left I can think of is a bad MAF, Low voltage to the pump under boost, A bad ignitor for the coilpacks, or possibly a bad CAS or something. Any help would be greatly appreciated because I dont know what else I should check at this point lol.
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I need help getting dimensions for a few parts of an RB20. I currently don't have one or have the current funding to buy one. So I need help to get the following dimensions: cylinder head intake ports, cylinder head valves, cylinder head intake manifold bolt pattern, cylinder placement on block, and spark plug placement on cylinder head. I know I just need to get my hands on one but thats not to easy in the USA. This is so I can make a basic 3D soildworks model to run some solidworks simulations for both of my current projects. Any help is greatly appreciated thank you.
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Paypal ready. PM me! I'll buy them today!
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Recently bought and installed rb20 from a gtst on a 260z. Everything on the engine is stock including the turbo. It has less than 52,000 miles on it and compression on all 6 cylinders were perfect. After going for my first "real drive" on the highway I started noticing a rattling sound. I just changed the oil after having it in for 2 weeks and it was all black and only had 3L left over. I expected the oil to be black from the carbon buildup from sitting around all these years. Why it burned the rest? Beats me at this point but im most concerned about this sound which I was hoping would disappear after the oil change. Anybody else experience this before? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGGsbxbN6Hs&index=1&list=UUdH8WP3yCgmmuX9vE5lPOEQ
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SOLD. Please delete. I'm selling my 1976 280z with an RB20det swap. PRICE REDUCED $7000, NOW $6000 OBO. Located in Richfield Utah. Some info about the motor: RB20det silber top. Cometic Metal Head Gasket Rb25 Turbo AEM Tru Boost controller Greddy Emanage Ultimate Rb20 Transmission PnP Head Front mount intercooler Walbro 255lh inline fuel pump Some info about the car: 2+2 body Minor rust for these cars (see pictures) Toyota Forunner 4piston Calipers on front with stock rotor stock rear brakes. Tinted windows. Dash in perfect condition Center console cracked and not installed Worn front seats Back seat in perfect condition Welded 3.90 diff (non-welded also included) stock driveline. Tokico Struts Eibach Lowering Springs Poly Mustache Bar Mounts R.T Diff Mount Extras: Unwelded diff hx35 Holset turbo another stock manifold spacing plate for turbo gtr 440cc injectors (rebuilt) 260z front bumper and after market brakets. (needs a little work and paint) exhaust clip: First Startup: I check this site regularly so feel free to PM. Thanks!
