rvannly

I usually run resistors on low impedance injectors and not let the onboard PWM flyback circuit do the work. IDK seems more stable, or maybe im too lazy to tune the current limit and threshold... "It couldn't hurt to add the resistors and see if the idle issues go away ..."

I wouldn't mind seeing it on the road though. At least they're still thinking about performance as a company. Then again check this out: http://zilvia.net/f/off-topic-chat/285902-toyota-blames-video-games-decline-auto-sales.html So what direction are they going for? Or shows you their need for change.

Yeah, the three Walmarts near me have all switched over to Rustoleum. The Autozones here are starting to sell more and more Rustoleum products as well. I bought some Rustoleum aircraft remover and noticed it did not work as well as the one made by Klean Strip. boo, I'm not liking this. Has anyone used Herculiner for undercoating?? Its available at Autozone in a 1 gallon jug and is well under 100 dollars.

Quick answer, it depends on the wastegate. Google turbos and how they work cuz its a bit lengthy to explain. BUt pretty much a turbo WITHOUT a wastegate will boost to infinity/until your motor blows up. Figure out how a wastegate operates and it'll answer all of your questions. Its such a simple concept really. Good luck

What diff do you have? Long shot, but I remember one afternoon going home from willow springs. I had the same thing happen to me. I ran a 2 way lsd (240sx) and since it was after a drift event, I had miss matched tires in the rear. Well while driving home the car would want to veer to the right on accel but then do the opposite on decel(engine breaking) sure enough when I got home I replaced the rear wheels with matching ones and it drove normal.

If you're looking for more power, then increasing the boost pressure at the wastegate will do that. Either with a boost controller or the wastegate, assuming its stock internal and is adjustable. Just know that if you go too far with boost you will run into problems that could lead to disaster; maxing out injectors, air flow meter, detonation, or even maxing out the turbo... Figure out what psi your engine can handle safely and go from there. How about keeping the boost level stock and going with a front mount? Always good to have a FMIC.

Hey, I was thinking the same thing about the fan clutch fluid... same concept sort of, in a fan clutch system right?

Personally, I would never run with a welded LSD. I've had two 240sx's with 2way lsd's and driven one with a welded diff. They are great for drifting and drag but other than that, I wouldn't. The main concern for me was during wet conditions. With the 2 way, the rear end always wanted to break loose and oversteer. It's worst on a welded diff and at any speed. If you are going to drive the car in the rain at all don't go with the welded Diff. A friend of mine lost control of his Ae86 Corolla on the freeway in light rain because of his welded diff, just from letting off the gas at a cruising speed. A combination of worn engine/trans mount and welded diff caused the rear end to lock up for just a quick moment and lost complete traction. Plus its kinda embarrasing when you're in a parking lot trying to park and its making all kinds of squeking noises.

Hey great job! About the situation on how it was hard to the completely flip the car upside down, How did you get around that problem. Do you think it was because of that tilt at the uprights on the stands? Because of this thread I decided to clean the garage and build a rotisserie. Heard we are in for another el nino so it looks like shes going to be a garage queen this winter.

I like using the 3wire pwm valves from the 90's bmw. I have ran them on a few toyota motors with great success. My ms1 v3.0 1997 e36 328is uses the same valve and it does what its supposed to do. Look into the Glen's garage idle board for the 3 wire valve boards.

During the week I did a few test runs of different methods. I have a rust hole above the frame rail in the fender well that I want to fix so that's where I began the experiments. I started with aircraft remover. It didn't really do much damage to the undrcoating, which was pretty hard and thin. All it did was soften the undercoating, barely. It took multiple layers of aircraft remover after manually scraping of material with a metal scraper. Next, I used a wire wheel on a grinder. This worked great, but scary. needles of wire flung everywhere and the grinder was hard to maneuver around. Yet, very effective. After most of the material was off the panel I used the aircraft remover to get rid of the rest. I have a gas torch that I want to try, but it has been 90+ degrees outside the past few days so I will wait on that.

unless there's a trans adapter out there that I don't know about, I'm sure the L tranny will not bolt up. AK-Z installed his motor and ran into clearance issues for the lower oil pan and the front crossmember. I just got my KA24de and I will probably make modifications to the pan to clear. I still have to check the oil pickup dimension though. I am also going turbo. And for fuel management I will be using the megasquirt ems. I have a ct26 from an mr2turbo that I will be using. KA-t.org is a great website for ka turbo info. Good Luck with your project.

Great thanks for the input everyone. I think I am going to try the dry ice method since I've gone that route in the past. There a a lot of spots where it is thick and soft so the wire wheel and scaler wouldn't work very well.

Hi guys, I had just cut out my floor pan and need to get the undercoating off. Primarily the edges where I am going to be welding the new sheet metal to. There is a lot of different materials under there: three layers of paint, sound deadening material/tar, and aftermarket undercoating. Ive gone through a few threads on this subject and since it'll be on jackstands, dry ice won't work. The heat method I would like to leave for my last option, since it's so messy. I read about the snap-on crud thug, but that is just too expensive. I remember learning how to weld on a arc welder and remembered an air tool used to get the flux off of the welds called "air scaler"? Harbor freight has them for cheap and since this is a one time project I think it will be worth it. Here's the link to a pic/spec. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=96997 There are two versions. Another larger one for 50 dollars Has anyone tried this for undercoating removal? Also, the only air compressor I have right now is a small 4.5 gallon compressor. Its rated at 6.2 SCFM @90psi. What is "SCFM" vs "cfm"? The tool says 4 CFM @90 psi, so will my compressor work? Sorry for the newb and lengthy thread, and thanks

Hello everyone, my name's Roth and I am from socal. This is my first Z that I bought for technically $600. It's missing a tranny at the moment. I am going to tackle the rust on the floors first. So that means out with the old. My plan is to cut out the old floor and weld in 20 gauge sheet metal with square tubing for the frame rails. I'm also hoping to raise the floors a bit for ground clearance and an agressive drop. This is how I got it from the PO. I've already taken a few things off before the picture, but there she is. Here's how it was before i went at it with the sawzall: And then at the point of no return. This has to be the scariest thing I've ever done to a car. The Rust made it very easy to cut through so I guess +1 for rust. Well there you have it. I think I am going to finish up the driver side first before starting on the pass side. I would like to add that I'll be getting the sheet metal and square tubing from a place in socal called "Metal Depot". It's a nice suplus warehouse that carries a lot of stock metal new and old. Here's a website just in case you're in socal and havent heard of this place. http://www.metaldepot.com/ It's located in La Mirada Right off the Five freeway Also I'm keeping track of the build costs and so far: 240z- $600 DMV Non-Op and taxes- $98 Black diamond pattern vinyl and a few panels- $30 Material for floors and frame-???

gmac708, That looks great good job! They do look like zed pan and rails, are they? Many thanks for the pictures. Too bad I can't use the zed findings floors since my rust extends beyond the edges of the zed kits. Looks like, from the underside picture, you're going... RB?

So what did you do to clear the front crossmember? Cut or relocated it?

Do you have a boost gauge hooked up? My SR s13 had this weird boost problem where after it reached full boost it would creep off down to 5 ish by the time it neared redline. It was running the stock boost regulator unit, so I bypassed it and ran a straight vacuum line to the wastegate.

Yeah you are absolutely right. I did some more cleaning of the area and it's much more worse then I thought. I'm going to have to replace the entire floor pan and frame rails. As far as goals for the car. Right now, it has no transmission so I'll just start off with a motor swap from the get go. KA24de ITB turbo. Probably 250hp. I'm thinking for the floor pans and rails, sheet metal and square tubing should be enough right? 20gauge? Thanks for the input!

just out of curiosity, what engine management are you running? Those are some pretty low numbers.

So I finally found some time to work on the Z. I started off by taking out the carpet and dumping it. I noticed a lot of rust chips and so I proceeded to chip off the old sound deadening. I was pretty dissapointed when i started to see light through the floor. So now I'm in need of new floor pans. This lead me to my first question. Are the OEM floors two layers? It seems like I see two separate layers. Yet, when I was looking online for some new floor pans they are only a single layer... Any input would be appreciated thanks. My other question is about the repair. It seems that the front (towards engine) portion of the floor pan is heavily rusted, but the rear section, towards the seat was somewhat preserved beacause of the stock sound deadening material. Should I replace the whole floor pan or just the section? If this will save me some money then I'll try that route. Unless of course there's a good reason like, mixing old metal with new.

Hi there im new here, but Ive done a lot of MS installs. I read most of the posts here but skipped a few so... On the constants window id just run 2 squirts simultaneously for now. what you want to do first is mess with your "req fuel number" Since you say your plugs are wet id lower that number by a little then than half of what it is now. Id get new plugs too. I usually run cheap ones for the first start ups. Do you get a constant, constant as in always showing a rpm signal and not a on and off rpm signal in megatune during cranking? Do you have a wideband? Do the disconnecting of the saw wire method as well, this will tell you if your Vr sensor is close enough to the correct tooth.