ls1Hybridz

first off i want to apologize to everyone for not keeping this current. i WAS working on this project for my fellow Z members, but i have lost my job and had to sell my Z. i know it is possible to make the long tubes work but i just dont have a car to test on anymore. i will try again once i have an income to support my addiction lol.

i would like to correct a couple of things that have been said in here if i could. since you repainted the whole car and you still have some color left, you dont need to worry about their being a color mismatch. also in regards to sanding it down tightywhitey185 is correct in using a grey 3m scotch brite pad. using 1000 or 1500 is to low a grit to let the paint adhere properly over top of the clear. In regards to the color, you want to start by a small patch over the tiger striped area and feather it out from there over 2-3 coats for coverage. you want a light-medium coat. finally clear, i would do as tighty suggests and clear the whole quarter and use a blender to finish the sail panel. SHerwin williams automotive finishes has a blending solvent in a spray can which make things very easy, its called BS10, any sherwin auto store should have it. Hope this helps.

That preval gun is awesome for people who dont have the chance to use an actual spray gun and booth. everything is replaceable and it is very cheap. You should always use automotive thinner in your paint not lacquer. the way it evaporates is why you need to use a specific kind. if you use lacquer in a urethane the paint will not completely dry. thinner is cheap almost anywhere you go so it shouldnt be that big of a deal to buy 2 dollars more for it. if you have anymore questions give me a call proxlamus since i live in the same area as you 720-771-0135.

If you really think his car looks like crap then i want to see yours. because anyone who cant appreciate what he has done has some really bad taste. this is one gorgeous z and anyone who has spent that much time on it has some serious dedication and love for his car. I love the car keep up the good work

when you change the color of your car you have to think of all the time it takes to do it right. but other than that i would do the blue it will look clean on a 280

you really dont wanna cut that bar out. that bar is called an intrusion beam its what can mean life a death when hit from the side. if you wanna save weight i would make a fiberglass door skin and replace the metal skin on their.

im not sure if i can sqeeze the exhaust by the frame rails so i might have to notch them to get a set to fit, also with how much ground clearance there will be. i dont have the JCI exhaust myself so it will be hard for me to get them to match with that kit and i dont have much spare change to get that exhaust kit. if someone could take some measurements from frame rails and certain points then i can mock up a set.

any information would help me on what im doing, that would be most appreciated so that i can get it right so everyone will be happy. please let me know what everyone is thinking for these headers. Should they me made for a race setup or should i make them for just street use? Should i make a full exhaust also if your interested in that as well? If you want something special made with the exhaust on how its routed, if you dont want it going to the back but dump out the side?

yea i went to school for welding fabrication and automotive refinishing. plus i am having one of my buddy's help me get the first set made since he makes his own Subaru turbo exhausts. im waiting to start on this to see if there are people interested in buying a set. that way i can go about making them a different way so i can make more than one set. does 800 sound reasonable to everyone for a set of stainless headers? i noticed that most stainless headers are around that price if not higher.

i am going to try to build the headers for the JCI swap since thats what im using right now. a rough guess on the cost for a set of headers would be around 800+ for stainless steel with ceramic coatings.

just made a poll on long tube headers or not please let me know what yall are thinking. ill be looking for some prices on stainless steel tubing and the cost of ceramic coatings.

so i was thinking of building some long tubes for my datsun ls1. i want to know if anyone would be interested in buying any if i made a template to duplicate them.

proxlamus if your looking for touch up paint i could get you some since i run a paint store in ft. collins.

i have been tossing around the idea of making some stainless steel longtube headers for the ls1 conversion since there isnt anyone out there who mass produces them. if there are enough people out there who are interested in the idea i can work on making a template for a custom set of long tubes. i havent tried doing it yet since there isnt a huge amount of room but i think i could weld a mock up set and see what yall think

most of your lacquers, enamels, and acrylic use acetone as a reducer. the only point of a reducer is to make the paint sprayable, which it evaporates later, causing the paint to dry faster. some enamels will use mineral spirits but it really depends on the manufacturer's recommendations.