ls1Hybridz

first off i want to apologize to everyone for not keeping this current. i WAS working on this project for my fellow Z members, but i have lost my job and had to sell my Z. i know it is possible to make the long tubes work but i just dont have a car to test on anymore. i will try again once i have an income to support my addiction lol.

i would like to correct a couple of things that have been said in here if i could. since you repainted the whole car and you still have some color left, you dont need to worry about their being a color mismatch. also in regards to sanding it down tightywhitey185 is correct in using a grey 3m scotch brite pad. using 1000 or 1500 is to low a grit to let the paint adhere properly over top of the clear. In regards to the color, you want to start by a small patch over the tiger striped area and feather it out from there over 2-3 coats for coverage. you want a light-medium coat. finally clear, i would do as tighty suggests and clear the whole quarter and use a blender to finish the sail panel. SHerwin williams automotive finishes has a blending solvent in a spray can which make things very easy, its called BS10, any sherwin auto store should have it. Hope this helps.

That preval gun is awesome for people who dont have the chance to use an actual spray gun and booth. everything is replaceable and it is very cheap. You should always use automotive thinner in your paint not lacquer. the way it evaporates is why you need to use a specific kind. if you use lacquer in a urethane the paint will not completely dry. thinner is cheap almost anywhere you go so it shouldnt be that big of a deal to buy 2 dollars more for it. if you have anymore questions give me a call proxlamus since i live in the same area as you 720-771-0135.

If you really think his car looks like crap then i want to see yours. because anyone who cant appreciate what he has done has some really bad taste. this is one gorgeous z and anyone who has spent that much time on it has some serious dedication and love for his car. I love the car keep up the good work

when you change the color of your car you have to think of all the time it takes to do it right. but other than that i would do the blue it will look clean on a 280

you really dont wanna cut that bar out. that bar is called an intrusion beam its what can mean life a death when hit from the side. if you wanna save weight i would make a fiberglass door skin and replace the metal skin on their.

im not sure if i can sqeeze the exhaust by the frame rails so i might have to notch them to get a set to fit, also with how much ground clearance there will be. i dont have the JCI exhaust myself so it will be hard for me to get them to match with that kit and i dont have much spare change to get that exhaust kit. if someone could take some measurements from frame rails and certain points then i can mock up a set.

any information would help me on what im doing, that would be most appreciated so that i can get it right so everyone will be happy. please let me know what everyone is thinking for these headers. Should they me made for a race setup or should i make them for just street use? Should i make a full exhaust also if your interested in that as well? If you want something special made with the exhaust on how its routed, if you dont want it going to the back but dump out the side?

yea i went to school for welding fabrication and automotive refinishing. plus i am having one of my buddy's help me get the first set made since he makes his own Subaru turbo exhausts. im waiting to start on this to see if there are people interested in buying a set. that way i can go about making them a different way so i can make more than one set. does 800 sound reasonable to everyone for a set of stainless headers? i noticed that most stainless headers are around that price if not higher.

i am going to try to build the headers for the JCI swap since thats what im using right now. a rough guess on the cost for a set of headers would be around 800+ for stainless steel with ceramic coatings.

just made a poll on long tube headers or not please let me know what yall are thinking. ill be looking for some prices on stainless steel tubing and the cost of ceramic coatings.

so i was thinking of building some long tubes for my datsun ls1. i want to know if anyone would be interested in buying any if i made a template to duplicate them.

proxlamus if your looking for touch up paint i could get you some since i run a paint store in ft. collins.

i have been tossing around the idea of making some stainless steel longtube headers for the ls1 conversion since there isnt anyone out there who mass produces them. if there are enough people out there who are interested in the idea i can work on making a template for a custom set of long tubes. i havent tried doing it yet since there isnt a huge amount of room but i think i could weld a mock up set and see what yall think

most of your lacquers, enamels, and acrylic use acetone as a reducer. the only point of a reducer is to make the paint sprayable, which it evaporates later, causing the paint to dry faster. some enamels will use mineral spirits but it really depends on the manufacturer's recommendations.

thank you for the correction.

finding a T56 that cheap would be a steal. your best bet would be to search some junk yards for cars that came with the T56. cars that are running 9's with a T56 are probably built a little bit. so you will have to buy new parts for the T56 or try to find replaceable performance parts. wither way its gonna get expensive fast

i think what your trying to do is awesome if more people know about what there is available it would be great. i do know that the turbos on the STI can hit 21 PSI and hold around 500HP. i know that the subaru legacy gt limited can do 17 and hit 450HP. i believe that the evo is somewhere similar but im not sure exactly. Each turbo on the 3000GT VR-4 can hit 7 psi and they spool very fast on 3 cylinders not sure on the power potential for those either. In Hot Rod magazine they did an article on a guy who found tractor turbos and installed them on his mustang and he runs tens consistently. lots of people have been able to put random turbos on cars and they work well, you just have to know what your doing when it comes to your timing, fuel, temperature and things like that.

no i dont think the kit will work for the ls3 because it is based off the ls7 and its alot wider and a different degree V8 then the ls1. if you really wanna know call JTR and ask them yourself.

yes that is true but most company's dont go into much detail but they hit the basics. your more expensive cars such as supercars, are doing everything. so yea i didnt specify what i meant thanks for catching that.

GM has done such an excellent job with all their new engines that it would be very hard to break any of them. all their new LS motors are now blueprinted especially the new LS9 and LS3 which is the base platform for the LS9. if you can break the engine by just driving it hard then you did something wrong in my opinion.

so the answer to most of your guys questions are yes there is a kit from eaton to put the same supercharger from the ls9 on to the ls3. there are kits for the ls2 and ls1 made by kenne bell and eaton both. the kenne bell kit is probably your best bet since you pay 5g for everything you need to make 500+ including fuel injectors and fuel pump. the problem with waiting for someone to wreck one will be tough since there only making 1000 ZR1's this year and maybe that much next year. if any junk yard even has one (which would be hard since it will take alot of damage to total a 100,000 dollar car.) it would still cost alot for the drivetrain of one.

i would love to put one in if it wasnt going to cost me both my nuts. i think a crate LS9 is going for around 20,000 with the new tko6060 transmission behind it. the next best thing is to get a LS1 or LS3 and buy the eaton supercharger kit.

its true that they dont use lead filler anymore. but, they do make a new product that acts as lead and its made of zinc/tin. i think http://www.eastwood.com carries it. if not do a google search and you should find tin body filler.

i agree with brad-man. you can use rage gold or rage extreme for most repairs. you cant use body filler for making body lines or edges because it is too brittle and would break. lead is nice for building on edges but it really sucks to smooth because you have to use a metal file to make it straight. so its really where it is needed and what your overall goal is on what to use