83turbo280zx

I have a factory downpipe for $40 shipped to your door, or $70 if you want me to port match it to the gasket. E-mail me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net if interested

I have a stock downpipe for sale $25 or if you want me to port match it to the DP gasket, $55, and $15 shipping to your door. E-mail me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net if interested

Ok, so I finally got around to writing this for you guys. If you're wanting to explore some different seat options. Here is a great alternative. I scored some black leather seats out of a 2004 Acura RSX for $100. To start off, the two seat brackets are not that different between the 280zx, and the RSX. The only major issue is the seat bracket does not separate from the seat on the RSX seats, but the Z bracket will. So instead of a straight bracket swap, I had to drill out the rivets holding the rear-ward mounting ears to the RSX seat bracket, then drill out the rivets on the mounting ears on the Z bracket. The front-ward mounting ears are EXACTLY the same between the Z and the RSX seat brackets, so only the REAR-WARD mouting ears need to be swapped between the two seats. Swapping ears made the seat bolt right in on the right side of the seat bracket in both the front and the rear of the seat. On the left side of the bracket however, I had to turn the rearward mounting ear to a 45 degree angle to get it to line up with the mounting hole in the floor board. This was for the driver's side seat, it is the exact opposite for the passenger side seat. This is NOT recommended for anyone 6'2" or taller as 1. The new seats will sit higher which aren't friendly to the already low head clearance in the Z, and the fact that the steering column doesn't tilt. I'm only 5'6" so it worked out perfect. If you are taller, you may consider modifying your own version of the seat bracket to accommodate your height. Anywho, here is a step by step installation guide of how I got the seats to fit. First off, list of tools you will need: 12mm socket 14mm socket 16mm socket Phillips screw driver at least a 6" long extension Ratchet wrench Saw-zall or equivalent, or an air powered cutting wheel Good drill and drill bits, wd40 and plenty of patience Self-centering punch to give you a pilot to guide your drill bit 32oz hammer Chisel Overall installation time per seat was approx 2 hours with test fitting and drilling out the rivets taking up the biggest amount of time. Man they look nice (: The following pictures and instructions coincide with the passenger side seat and bracketry, for the driver's side, it is exactly the same, except the positioning is opposite of described in the following write-up. So first start off by removing your old seat and removing the factory Z seat bracket from the seat. Its four 12mm bolts that hold the seat bracket to the seat. We will come back to the Z bracket here in a second. Get your RSX seat on a workbench and get it supported so you can begin drilling out the rivets that hold on the mounting ears. Now these are VERY thick rivets. I had to start with a small 1/4" drill bit and work my way up skipping every other drill bit to get the hole big enough. Once you get up to a few sizes over 3/8", if you've kept the drill as close to center as possible, the drill will catch the rivet and actually spin it in it's bore. Once you've done this, you can remove the drill bit from the rivet, and take a chisel and hammer and start beating the head off. Once you've done this to both rivets, the mounting ear will be free. You will NOT reuse any RSX seat mounting ears, so just discard them. Next you need to take the right side seat bracket and turn it upside down. You will notice a white paint line from the factory. Take your cutting tool and cut neatly across this white line. Its as if nissan predicted we would be putting RSX seats in the Z as this is exactly the right length that needs to be cut. Once you've cut this section off, discard the factory Z seat bracket as you will no longer need it. Drill out the rivets holding the mounting ear, and discard the piece of metal that was underneath. Now, find a good set of nuts and bolts, and bolt the Z mounting ear to the RSX seat bracket. I don't trust the bolts by themselves, so I actually had a bead welded around the two pieces to make it rigid and also for safety. Now onto the left side seat bracket. You will notice there is only one rivet on this side, but there is a hole that was drilled from the factory and a weld put in. Drill out the bracket, and drill out the weld. Fortunately on the weld, you only have to drill deep enough to separate the mounting ear from the weld, unlike the rivets which you do in fact have to drill all the way out. Once you've done this you will have this end result In the picture it shows that I drilled an additional hole to have two bolts running though the mounting ear holding it to the seat bracket. Once I got it in the car, I had to remove one of the bolts to be able to rotate the mounting ear 45 degrees to get it to line up with the hole in the floor board. Once again, I also had it welded to stiffen it up, and it makes me feel safer lol. Next onto making the seat belts work. The RSX uses a smaller seat belt so the latch will not work. Take the plastic cover off of the seat belt latch on the RSX seat with a Phillips screw driver. You will notice it has a side impact air bag assembly attached to the seat belt latch. Remove this whole assembly with a 14mm socket. You can discard the seat belt latch as you won't need it. Now remove the seat belt latch from the Z seat with a 16mm socket. You will also need the 16mm bolt that came off of the 280zx seat. Take the seat belt latch, and 16mm bolt and bolt this to the RSX seat. You will now be able to retain the factory seat belts. The seats for me have great clearance and its definitely a plus being a little higher up considering I'm only 5'6" lol. It is a few more inches away from the center console and closer to the rocker panel. It does fit, its just a tight fit. Anyone who pursues this swap, beware that you are doing this AT YOUR OWN RISK AND I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU SCREW UP AND KILL YOURSELF BECAUSE THE SEAT WASN'T MOUNTED PROPERLY, OR ANY OTHER REASON PERTAINING TO YOU TAKING ON THIS SEAT SWAP. Other than that. Good luck with it and if you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net -Chris

i've got a cluster that is torn apart, but I can reassemble, it would have all the gauges except for the tach as it was broken. The speedometer reads approx 26K miles. $70 shipped if you're in the continental US e-mail me if interested sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net

i've got one sitting in my tool box, $20 shipped to your door as long as you're in the continental US. e-mail me if interested sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net

I've got a few of the parts you're looking for. I've got the oil cooler adapter that bolts to the block with the lines, everything but the oil cooler for $50 plus shipping. I've also got an aftermarket oil supply line flange that goes to the top of the turbo, will bolt up to a t3 turbo. I'll toss that in for free if you buy the cooler adapter and lines. I have a p79 intake manifold that I cut the webs and EGR section out of, just needs to be finished, smoothed out, etc. etc. I'll take $30 shipped for that. e-mail me if interested sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net -Chris

i've got a thermostat housing if you're interested. $30 shipped to your door with a tracking # if you're in the continental U.S. e-mail me if interested sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net -Chris

i have a factory s130 wastegate flapper assembly that bolts to the back of the turbo, and then the downpipe bolts to that. $37 shipped to your door with a tracking #. And I also have a factory turbo downpipe from a 83 turbo if you would like that, That one will be $40 shipped to your door, shipping prices are the same for anywhere in the continental U.S. e-mail me if interested @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net -Chris

Still looking for turbo parts? I've got a factory turbo downpipe $25+shipping, turbo j-pipe $25+shipping and I've also got a turbo AFM $50+shipping. Email me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net if interested. Thanks!! -Chris

I have a p79 intake manifold that has had the webs cut out and the egr ports removed. It just needs to be finished and have the six small egr passages welded shut. $15+ shipping and its yours. Email me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net if interested. Thanks! -Chris

I have the oil supply plate that bolts up to the turbo if you need it. $10 shipped to your location. E-mail me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net if interested. Thanks! -Chris

i have a turbo AFM, and stock turbo J-pipe for sale if interested, $50 + shipping for the AFM and $25+ shipping for the j-pipe. Also have a factory turbo downpipe for $25+ shipping also. Prices are OBO, so if you're interested shoot me an e-mail @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net thanks!! -Chris

Looking for a Vortech FMU (fuel management unit) (rising rate fuel pressure regulator) i'd like to get ahold of one with a lower ratio, 4:1 is optimum, but 6:1 will do. But won't turn down offers for a higher ratio. Please e-mail me if anyone is willing to part ways with one. Not really interested in the Blox or OBX crap, as i've read and heard numerous horror stories. Thanks! Chris (sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net)

Im WTB a complete set of JDM Fairlady 280z Turbo emblems that would go on a JDM 79-83 280zx turbo (S130 U.S.) Please e-mail me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net Thanks!!

wd40 and put some ass into it

Hi, im having a hell of a time trying to find some jdm 280zx emblems (Fairlady 280z) So i'm down to having reproduction emblems made. Can anyone please supply pics of the side emblems, and the trunk emblems that you've either seen off of a jdm 280zx, or off one you actually own? Especially if anyone has a picture of the fairlady 280z turbo emblem that would be really helpful, that being said, anyone else here interested in receiving reproduction units?

i have one, $10 + shipping to your location, feel free to e-mail me for pics/other questions, and your location so i can calculate shipping sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net

why not buy it and have an exhaust shop modify it for 3" piping, and if they dont have a mandrel bender buy pre-bent exhaust pipe from summit racing or whoever.

im looking for a complete fairlady 280z emblems (280zx) if anyone has them please PM me. I will pay via paypal for them, or trade for spare parts i have laying around. If you have the turbo emblem set that would be awesome, but i can settle for the n/a emblems cause so far i've had no luck trying to locate and obtain some. Here are some spare parts i have, but not all, just some i can remember i have off the top of my head for the 280zx Aux cooling fan from turbo model injector cooling fan turbo charcoal canister spare bccd off of an 82 n/a throttle body off of an 82 hayden fan clutch with plastic fan stock fan shroud turbo oil pump turbo ignition coil stock turbo air box w/ brand new wix filter stock j-pipe with welded greddy type s-type rs blow off valve adapter. If you need something that i dont have listed please PM me

yes it is, he's probably referring to the vacuum canister for the ac system, check for a crack in the air flow meter boot going from the afm to the turbo, those crack and cause big air leaks and cause problems like you're experiencing.

haha dont worry oz connection, i wasn't looking to be the first to ever swap a s chassis radiator in lol, and actually i just realized i posted this a while back, i know i posted this on Z car but i couldn't remember if i made a thread for hybridz.org, oopsies, oh well lol.

So i've been dealing with radiator problems for a while, so instead of spending the $200+ for a stock replacement, or biting the bullet and spending $300 on an aluminum radiator for my zx i invested in a 3 row aluminum radiator for the s13 chassis with an sr20 swap. The radiator cost me $89 plus shipping, CX Racing, its kind of like OBX another ebay brand but they've gone way up in quality since they first came along. A buddy of mine runs one in his 2jz powered s14 240sx. Anyways, here is a write up on how to adapt this radiator into the s130 chassis, im sure with a little more modification it could fit into an s30 no problem. Instead of running 3/4 of the way on my temp gauge with the stock radiator and a pusher puller combo of electric fans, i now have only a puller fan operating and it cools under halfway on the temp gauge, this is with plenty of 80mph plus WOT pulls down the freeway. I also live in Texas one of the hottest parts of the country. So start off pulling your old radiator out You have to make sure you do get the SR20 radiator for the s13 because the KA24 radiator has the upper radiator hose connection at the opposite side of the L28 Radiator. The S13 radiator is about 1/4" wider on each side, which is no problem, but you're not going to retain the stock mounting positions, the s13 radiator is also a little thinner, and shorter, so you want to make sure you mount it level and high enough so the radiator cap clears the radiator support. i made some brackets out of some steel from home depot so that it would mount up flush and level Your lower radiator hose will still work fine with this radiator, but the upper radiator hose doesnt extend far enough to the hose connection on the s13 radiator, so you have to substitute for a different radiator hose. Its gates part # 22165 which fits a 1994-1997 Mazda Miata 1.8L 4 banger. Its a pretty tight fit so be patient, it took me a little while to get it to fit just right, but it will fit. Once you get all that connected, hook up your electric fans and fill with coolant and you're good to go. I have my fan wired to a thermal fan switch (radiator probe). Its Hayden part # 3653, available from o'reilly auto parts or summit racing, etc. I was running two fans one puller one pusher hardwired to the key with the stock radiator and still running close to 3/4 hot on the factory gauge, now im running right at operating temperature, well see how well it does in the texas heat this July . Im not sure how the factory fan shroud would hook up to this radiator as i did the electric fan conversion a while back. If anyone has any questions or wants some brackets made, etc. feel free to e-mail me sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net

s13 front suspension setup in-dash glow shift gauges nismo steering wheel t5 short shift kit leather shift boot (no more scrotum boot) finish my water/meth kit 10psi wastegate actuator (my diaphram is torn) thats all i can think of at the moment lol

ok i gotcha, well i mocked up my piping today and i wont have to have too much welding done, maybe i'll be able to afford having a nipple added to my intercooler pipe, if not i will try one of the fittings coming off the scroll on the turbo. thanks for all the help and info sir!!

ahh ok i gotcha, well what about running a hose from the manifold to the "fresh air" inlet to the AAC, AAR, etc. I was thinking about threading a hollowed out PCV valve into one of the allen head bolts in the bottom of the intake manifold and running a hose from that to the actual fresh air inlet. This way im still getting metered air, and i will also have positive pressure going through it under boost to keep the AAC from opening under boost. Im trying to keep away from having a bung welded to my IC pipe since im already on a tight budget, so if i can get away with using a hollowed out PCV valve in one of the holes in the manifold, then i will try that. What do you think Tony?