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About ByStickel

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    West Mass
  • Interests
    Cycling, fabrication, bicycle design and fabrication.

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  1. Thanks, Duffy! I'm just down the road in Missoula. Might see you one day, I hope.
  2. Bumping an old thread. Early (mid-'71 and older) 240s had a slightly longer 4-speed. After that, the shifter was mounted a little bit farther forward. I know this because my early car has a later 4-speed, and nit's causing problems with the center console. Does the 5 speed's shifter line up with the early shifter location, or the later one? Is there any difference in the length of the driveshaft or shape of the trans x-member? Thanks!
  3. Thanks, folks. I can always to a little test on the back side of one before trying to remove any paint. Wish me luck (;
  4. I'm stripping 4 coats of paint off of my '71 (most complete with primer, sealer, color and clear!) and want to strip the fender extensions, too. I hear people say that they're fiberglass, but they sure seem like plastic to me, and I don't want to damage the material. Is it safe to use Aircraft Remover? Are there better ways? Thanks!
  5. x-member is good. Surface rust. one ding to the leading edge that can be knocked back to straight. Shipping fenders would require a lot of time to pack securely. Are you willing to pay for the time and materials? posting pics is a pain, so use my gmail address bystickel@ for pictures.
  6. I believe the hatch is sold. I can ship the 1/4 windows. I'm not shipping the windshield, and the glass stays in the doors. I'm not shipping doors.
  7. This was a Florida car with most of its rust down low. No engine, cooling, hood, or wheels. The tub got hauled away, along with the orig 4-spd, driveshaft, and diff. Here's the text from the Craigslist ad: "I parted out a late-1971 240z and have parts to sell. Left and right doors with glass. No int panel. Have hinges and handles. Minor corrosion at bottom seams. small perforation limited to interior sheetmetal. $100 each Front fenders.SOLD Headlight buckets. plastic. All studs in good shape. $100 5-slot 14" wheels. 2 non-matching pairs. 2 are approx 6.5" wide with a slightly positive offset. The other 2 have more negative offset and are 5.5-6" wide. $60 for each pair. Also have (one)14" Fenton 5-slot with lots of negative offset. Looks great. Aluminum and steel construction. $20 Steering rack with tie rods. Rod end(s are tight and) threads are good. $125 Clean hatch. (surface rust only, needs to be stripped before refinishing)No glass. $110 Front crossmember with LCAs $75 Struts front complete with hubs, rotors, and brakes $185 Struts rear complete with lower control arms. No drums $150 Quarter windows $50/pr. Pedal assembly $90 Decent center console. SOLD Miscellaneous interior. Call with requests. No seats. Only trim is back panel cover in red, faded, and dash fill panel. Some other junk too. I'll add and remove items as I go. You're free to contact me with requests. My gmail.com address is bystickel@ I check that all the time. Forums less so.
  8. Can you enlarge the pics, now?
  9. My advice is to go slow, don't do anything you can't undo, and find a knowledgeable and patient old fart to help you with the project. I wish I had someone like that to help me with projects when I was young. Good luck with it, and remember that when driving, there is nothing more important than making sure nobody gets hurt.
  10. Hey everybody. I really appreciate all the knowledge shared and help offered here on the site. My first car was an early 260, back around 1988. It had a lot of small issues, ones that I wasn't skilled enough to fix, and my folks weren't patient enough to deal with. They took it away from me. Here it is with racing livery in dried wax. Yeah, I did weird stuff: About a year later, I lucked into a street-prepped '72 510. I've had 510s since then, with one of them an incomplete project with a built aluminum Buick 215 (266, now) swap. I always thought this would be a nice engine for a Z. It's light, small, and can be had obtained from newer Rovers, complete with modern updates and increased displacement. Two weeks ago, I spotted a '71 240 at a repair shop and ended up buying it, along with a parts car. It's all stock, low miles, and pretty solid for a northeast car, though it does have spots in the floor that need attention, dogleg issues, and a gaping hole beneath the battery tray. It was affordable, and I'm happy. I'm prioritizing repairs and am going to get it roadworthy first. No plans for a swap, just yet. I'm looking through threads, absorbing knowledge, and getting ideas. If there are other Z owners/hoarders in the area, please let me know. And the car:
  11. Thanks again, Cary. I like the idea for the rear T/C mounts. I'd love a Z, but have to wait until one falls into my lap. They're getting pricey. I had thoughts of doing the 215/Rover swap into a Z, and maybe that's what will become of this engine if I don't end up happy with the 510. I appreciate the link and your time and input!
  12. Thanks, guys. It's going in a 510 to clear the rear-sump Buick 215. I do have the early 240 rack. If I use the S30 X-member, I lose critical space for the exhaust to run between the x-member and starter on the passenger side. There is X-member structure behind the arm on the S30, whereas the 510 has the arm behind the member, in single shear. Also, I'd need to recess the sheetmetal and move or duplicate the formed doubler plate that's on the outside of the chassis, since the 510 needs an extra pair of holes to put the S30 piece in the right spot. The doubler plates provide extra space for the X-member bolt heads. I keep thinking that I'm going to end up wanting to convert this car back to stock sheetmetal when I'm too old to work and it's the only thing of value I have left, so the fewer sheetmetal mods the better. The whole thing is a mess and I wouldn't go this route if I had it to do over again, but here I am, with a valuable engine that should do what I'm hoping for (torquey, with linear throttle response). Cary, guess I'm most curious about relocating the LCA inner pivots out and up (how much?) This should act similarly to bumpsteer spacers, but I wonder if those original locations are always off, compared to rack width, or if it's only a problem on lowered cars. I'll be using 280zx struts which do not share the S30's strut angle (510/ZX are more vertical), so what works for Z will probably not work for my set-up, but the info on LCA location should help me. Thanks.
  13. An 18-year-long story short: '72 510 with bored and stroked 4.4L Buick 215 project started by an ignorant 20-something me, back in the mid-'90s. Lots of bad advice from a SoCal-based race shop (RIP). The front-steer 240 rack that was added to the 510 x-member is horrible, done with little knowledge of bump steer or Ackermann. The car has never been functional and I just got it back after 15 years away. The goal is a canyon-carver and autocross/track day car. The front end needs revision, and going back to the original steering box doesn't work with the exhaust and oil pan. I need an S30-like X-member. I spent a few hours searching archives, so if I just missed the info and you can direct me to it, please do. I try to bother others only when I can't find the info I seek. I TIG weld. I fab bicycle frames for a living. I have basic engineering knowledge. I'm going to make a custom front X-member that utilizes the basics from the S30, but everyone modifies the set-up in one way or another to improve it. What I'm hoping to learn is the best possible way to modify the design, since I'm not constricted by stock, existing parts. Are higher, more outboard LCA points superior to bump-steer spacers? Is the stock rack mounting height optimal? Are the knuckles the right shape and length? (I'll probaby be making custom or modifying stock S30 since I have to mate to ZX struts) Is there some reason why another rack should be chosen, before all this time and effort is undertaken? Anything and everything else I'm not thinking of? I know that I'll need to relocate the T/C rods/fab creative T/Cs that work in the stock location/ develop A-arms to work with the new, custom X-member. Any and all help you can offer will be greatly appreciated. I'll get some pics up if people are interested. Thanks!
  14. Thanks, Chris. I didn't know about the entire Z member fitting until a day ago. My car's exhaust is already close to the lateral arm's bolt, so if I go that route, I'll be forced to make custom headers sooner, rather than later... and make a custom crossover... with custom sound baffling... leading to custom mufflers that fit under the passenger seat bump up... snowball. Thanks to all. I'll post up some pictures in the 'other' section, soon.
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