Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About bimmota

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

473 profile views
  1. The hot start issue doesn't see to be a problem anymore, maybe it just needed a good burn run. I have over 500km on the swap and everything is working nicely, It spins 275 tires with ease and chirps 2nd and 3rd gear shifts. Finally finished painting and polishing the car, cleaned up the engine bay. I will post some better pictures in the future here. But the swap is complete, time to drive and enjoy before I dig into anything else
  2. I had the car running and driving last summer but was having some major issues with fuel. I wired in the OBD ll port and pulled the codes on my SCT tuner had something like 14 codes. Worked through them one by one to clear them all .By the end I had the entire engine harness ripped apart. But was able to clear all the codes. My fuel pressure was way off as well Installed a inline gauge to check ended up having 80psi of fuel pressure going into the rail. I don't know if it was something to do with using a junk crown vic fuel rail to convert the system a return style. Put a new fuel regulator in problem is all fixed. Although I'm plagued by the ford curse of restarting the car on hot starts, but it will start with the gas pedal to the floor to clear the cylinders, I will figure that problem out later. Built a new intake as well. Everything is a but dusty at the moment.
  3. After a long winter the work has resumed on the zcar for the past couple months now. Had to replace the rear quarter panel. Ordered flares from japan and 17" Rota RKR rims. 17x9.5 -20, 17x8.5 -10. Tires are 245/45/17 and 275/40/17. Cut out the wheel wells welded the inner and outer wheel wells together and seam sealed it. Sanded the entire car down fixing the body prepping it for paint.
  4. I saw the video clip looks and sounds. But now the sound clip won’t won’t even play. On my phone at least so it could be on my end.
  5. This is great stuff. Not to many more things left you can do to this car other then a velo rossa kit which I happen to have one I’m not using. hahaha. Is the hood going to close with the top mount with out modifications? What’s your hp hopes?
  6. Good question: I definitely installed the bracket before I put the trans back in. I think I could fit a ratchet wrench in there with the bracket and clutch fork installed. But to get the bolts out to install a bracket like this, might be difficult with the clutch fork in the way. Maybe a 1/4 ratchet with a 13mm deep socket might work? If you could rig something up to push the clutch fork in and hold it to get that extra inch shouldn't have any issues. These are the only two other pictures I have
  7. After a long wait for transmission parts it's rebuilt now and back into the car working great. Put a new dual friction clutch disk in it as I burnt up my last one with the slave cyl not releasing. I ditched the Wilwood pull clutch set up and built a push clutch system. I recommend to everyone don't even waste your time and money on the Wilwood pull clutch, the slave I found has the proper amount of travel needed to fully release the clutch. I ended up using a 1996 suzuki sidekick slave like $15.
  8. Luckily the rollers where still all in the input shaft they didn't fall into the casing till I split the bell housing. The 3rd/4th synchro key was stuck to the in the internal magnet. This trans only had 5000km on it new in 2014. I'm ordering a full bearing seal kit and carbon fiber synchro kit with billet synchro keys do it once do it right. (hopefully) In the mean time waiting for parts I got all new rear brakes and painted them. With a 4x100 adapter.
  9. I pulled the trans all apart, the shift forks are surprising in good shape all the gears look good. The synchros are all toast no grab in any of them. Broke the synchro keys, and had a input shaft bearing failure. Waiting on parts now.
  10. If your using an automatic engine ECU you will see the term PCM more often for fords. Pretty sure your going to have to trick the computer so that it reads neutral, could be wrong but something to research. Or source a manual PCM, I'm sure you can re program the auto out of the PCM. You will have to supply 12v switched power to the injectors and coils the PCM doesn't have the power to do that. It works off grounding to firing everything. You will need a OBD2 port installed to make an SCT Tuner work. Check out BAMA Performance for your tuner and email tunes. I used the mustang shop out of Calgary. I took the easy route by buying a working car and putting the tune on it to delete everything before I pulled the engine, cause I knew I wouldn't get to the OBD2 port wiring right way. Had to tare the dash apart to get that wiring. 04 I will assume it has PATS that needs to be disabled. And you may not want to keep the return less fuel system. You can always send your PCM away to get everything flashed onto it as well one shot deal.
  11. Well took the car out for a test to burn this weekend. The engine seems to run pretty good the stumbling only seems to be during cold, once I'm out on the street idles just great. Need to wire the OBD2 port up next to pull codes. Few issues: pretty sure I blew the seals in my new Wilwood pull slave cyl, brake fluid everywhere still holding the pressure tho, but leaks when I push the clutch pedal in. Need to come up with something new there. The clutch slips pretty bad in 3rd gear and up it wasn't new but it is a center force stage 2, I haven't looked to see if the slave is releasing all the way or if the clutch is soaked in brake fluid. And I bent the shift forks in the transmission it doesn't like to shift very nice anymore. Definitely not fault. So the trans needs to come out for a rebuild. It still moves pretty good with a slipping clutch All in All I'm pretty happy mostly everything works for a 2 month build just going at it on weekends.
  12. Ya I made that crack fitment issues, had to put it in the vise and bend it. Went a little to far I'm swapping that piece out for silicone hose soon ish here. But I have since tin tapped it made no difference. Apparently this issue haunts 99-04 mustangs when you go straight through exhaust, BBK throttle body and intake. I pulled the IAC valve all apart seems clean and working. I put the expansion black box back in for the IAC too no difference. Maybe it just needs a good burn run let the computer re-learn. Cleaned a bunch of the wiring up today. Installed one of those inline rad hose temp sensors I like aftermarket temp gauges over stock but I will get the stock gauge working here one of these days. Yellowoctupus I noticed you used the hydro booster in your car was it worth it? I assume you have power steering? did you use the ford steering rack. I ask cause I have it all sitting in my parts car do I keep it before I scrap the car?
  13. So far the engine is running pretty good starts so easy every time. However it is seems to stubble a bit once it warms up. I haven’t been able to take it for a test drive yet, waiting on new rear brakes and I haven’t got the temp and rpm gauge working yet. So I’m waiting on those to do a shake down run on it. This is how its sitting as of today. Not a big fan of the intake I need to do something new there. But in the mean time for testing it serves its purpose. I'm not able to fit the strut bar anymore so need to come up with something.
  14. Once I found the correct diagrams I was able to make sense of it. So many different variations of wiring diagrams for the ECU. I tried to use as little of the mustang harness as I could. I did keep the CCRM - constant control relay module which has 5 relays built into it I'm only using the PCM relay in the unit. I believe there were 5 grounds coming off the ecu and 2 vehicle powers I fused to switch power to the CCRM. Fuel pump was wired as a standalone circuit. Didn't use any of the mustang fuses. I was battling the wiring for while, the car would want to fire seemed like it was running on 2 cyl. Stepped back started over put 6-7 ground straps all over the engine to chassis flashed up in half a turn of the starter. I know grounds are important I had a few added a few more made the difference. The engine sits about 1 1/4" below the stock z front sub frame. I'm not sure about the LS engine there expensive up here and hard to find with manual gearboxes. This turned into a free engine after I parted out the mustang.
  15. These T45 transmission are glass pretty sure I bent a shift fork into 4th gear when it was still in the mustang day 3 of driving it. So I got a MGW short throw with the back stops to prevent you from over shifting and taking out the transmission. The location isn't quite in the factory Z spot little more forward need to extend the shifter to be comfortable and so I don't hit my knuckles on the dash.
  • Create New...