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I loved the victoracer tires in that size. They hooked up great, and were not too bad in the wet. I too ran into the same issue with wide tires in 16's. I ran my 265/45/16's on a 16x9 wheel. I bit the bullet and went all out and went 17's to get the width. Glad I did.

I installed my oil cooler to a location behind the passenger side opening in my airdam. It is a small opening 3X4 and it supplies air to only the oilcooler. The driverside opening supplies air to my intake. Its an option. Scott.

I'll get a copy IF it has all of the versions. I have a beautiful Criterion copy of the movie on laser disc that is simply outstanding. I'd like to have it in DVD or blueray, but to be perfectly honest, I prefered the original version I like the directors cut as well, but its the original that I recall quite vividly from my youth, and I will always prefer it. Scott

The VG30 would be a much easier swap than the VG30ET. You still need to make custom engine and tranny mounts, but the frame/turbo/steering clearance are not an issue. Other than availability of a newer nissan driveline, there is still a lot of custom stuff to do for a mild performance improvement. The VG30 can be built up, but if you are looking for serious power/torque, then the only decent options are 1 turbo, or 2 even more cubic inches of displacement. The VG is a very smooth engine, and there are lots of them out there. Small and light weight, and would make a cool street engine that makes decent power, and is also more modern than the L28. Go for it! Scott.

Hey Neil. I'm running a stock T5 turbo tranny from an 84 300zxt.

Small update. I've taken the car out a few more times. It is running well. With the colder temps now, I find if I roll hard on 3rd, those 315's can't hold it very well. Not such a bad problem to have I suppose. I have noticed one thing that is concerning me slightly. One of my relays has buzzed when I have started the car. Once the car starts and idles, it continues to buzz. I have checked the relays, and If I shut the car down and restart, it will still buzz. If I pull the relays (I can't seem to recall which one as I type this, but I think it is my fuel pump relay) If I pull the relay out and put it back in and restart the car, it will stop buzzing most of the time. I have had to pull and reinstall the relay a couple of times to get it to reset. The car runs fine while the relay buzzes. First I need to confirm which relay it is. Darn I wish I had written it down. Scott.

Well my car may not be applicable, but i'll post just because... 78 280Z VG30ET (that is the big difference) I used to run a heavily modifed L28. Tokico bars front and back Front 1.25" Rear 1" Tokico shocks/chevette springs. 235/45/17's front and 315/35/17's out back Yoki AVS Sports. Car was very neutral on the track. (comments from autocross drivers with 20 times my experience) 225/50/16 front and 245/45/16 BFG KDW's When I went to the VG30ET motor, I had to swap out the urethane endlink bushings in the front for rubber to get rid of the push. Was very neutral and controlable after that. I really want to upgrade the springs and go to smaller bars. Scott

This post is useless without pics! Ok here I what I've got so far. Left overs from the stockish z31 harness pulled from my 280Z. I had originally had most of the stock z31 harness working in my Z (except for obvious stuff) Engine bay as it stands today. More cleanup required, but more or less finished. Ecu installed in the car. The relay board is forward and above of the stock 280 fuse panel down in the passenger foot well. Scott.

Update again. Clunking/bang was a broken sway bar body mount! Its nice and quiet again. Took the car for the longest trip to date with the MS. 100km, highway speed, stop and go traffic through Toronto, and some surface streets. Hehehe. Got some waves and thumbs up, and had a BMW owner follow me into a parking lot to ask me about the Z! I was a bit worse for the wear after the trip, because 12 lanes of stop and go traffic on a maiden voyage is not the most calming trip. The worry was for nothing though, as the car performed very well. I've already started my next todo list. Some pics are next on the list, hopefully tonight. I am having an insulated steel garage door installed today, so I hope it goes well, so I can get the Z back in there and at least start some clean up work. Man I'm busy these days.....

Well another little update today. I guess all this torque is loosening things up a bit. Found two rear strut gland nuts loose, exhaust hanger (rubber) broke and fell off letting the exhaust bang on the body of the car, and something else is loose, but could not find it so far. Its a rattle kind of banging when hitting a bump. It does it whether coasting or under load. ehhh. MS is working fine.. Back to looking at the mechanicals of the suspension. This is getting old fast. I just want to drive it. Scott.

Ok small updates. Got married 13 days ago. All went extremely well. Everyone is happy. My AEM wideband that I had installed 2 summers ago, finally gave up and started giving weird readings.. ie 17:1 at cold idle etc... I guess since I have had it in the car, I have never had the car in a final state of tune. Before MS, it was either rich at idle and great at WOT, or lean at idle, and lean at WOT. OR kinda sorta middle of the road with the boost turned to stock. So just a caution if you have been doing a lot of tuning, watch out for your wideband to need replacing. I have a new one in and all is well again. The tuning has been going well, but there have been plenty of rain delays lately. Apparently even my 315's struggle for grip when its wet out.. hehehe JK. I'll be giving some final reports on the outcome of this swap very soon. I need to get some driving under my belt before the snow flies, so I can determine a starting point and identify any problem issues for next season. There is just not enough time for more tuning, as the weather here has been changing very fast this last week. The first sprinkle of salt on the roads will signal the end of my season pretty soon. Pics will follow soon as well. Scott.

PM me some contact info. I also live in Oshawa.

Remember this pic? Hybridz Hooters Bash 2003 (MSA Show weekend)

Vacation last year in Africa. My other hobby. Sailing. That's my brother in law sitting on the rail as the boat is heeled over pretty good! I like to push the limits while sailing too! Not as fast, but just as exciting.

Yep Definately have the wideband. I watch it like a hawk these days. I removed the narrow band o2 as it ran the modified stock ecu. Now the wideband will send a signal to the MS and my gauge mounted on the steering column. Once the details are cleaned up (wires etc) I don't have too much direction on how I go about fine tuning. I understand that I need to go the dyno, but that is mostly for WOT right? Or is it faster to do driveability tuning on the dyno as well?...sure less traffic to worry about! hehe

Ok its been awhile, and my previous posts are buried, so I thought I would quickly start a new one that I can update my progress and ask new questions. I've been extremely busy, as I am getting married in 9 days, and I am in the middle of a model year change over (I'm a paint supplier tech support in a large OEM paint shop), and we are preparing to launch a new vehicle line as well. So its crazy busy. Its also thanksgiving this weekend and the overseas inlaws are staying with me. Whew! Anyways. The Megasquirt is now up and running, and the car can at least drive up and down the street. Not much more than that. I am looking for some advice in using the autotune feature.. at least to get the car driveable but most importantly SAFE. I have not seen much info about maps/settings for the vg30ET. For now progress will stop for a couple of weeks until I have more time. I'm pretty desperate to get the car driveable so I can go for a few more drives before the snow flies. I'd like to be in decent shape so I can hit the road running this coming spring. Thanks to all! who have helped me get this far. Scott.

Here are a couple of quick shots I took while on vacations Pathway leading to a mountain top castle in Sintra Portugal A doorway in that castle. One bunghole facing Spain in the upper reaches of a Cathedral near the Portuguese/Spanish border. Abandoned castle remains (we thought it was more like a vampire ghost town on top of a mountain in the middle of nowhere. Storks in the desert of Spain Cathedral in Ceuta Africa Lastly A beautiful beach in the Algarve.

Well I wasn't going to post another gratuitous wheel shot of my car, until I saw that Terry posted, so I figured what the heck I like looking at my wheels! They are Simmon Wheels 17x11 rear and 17x8 front nothing new to say about them, no changes required or forthcoming. They are here to stay on the car...unless I win the lottery and put on something really wide. Scott

The wheels look much better! Gives it more of an old school racer look. The previous look of the wheels looks more like the early nineties method of putting on cheap 5 stars onto (insert name of car) to make it look racey. (no offence meant Scott) 120 grit sandpaper will take lots of sanding afterwards to get out that deep of a scratch. Anything grittier (lower number) than 400 can be tough to cover up with paint. Think of it this way. 100 grit (used to make the math easier) makes scratches 4 times as deep as 400 grit. If you sanded with 100 grit sandpaper, and then went over it again with 400 grit sandpaper, you would have scratches that are now only 3 times as deep as 400 grit scratches Now if your goal is to remove all of the previous paint off, then you will be ok. I'm only posting this only so people don't think they HAVE to start with 120 grit. I repainted my rear quarters on my Z this year (painted over the old paint), and I prepped the car using 220 before priming, and 400 after priming. Scott

Like the title says. How about using aero mods to increase lift on a vehicle. Now obviously not for a sports car or race car or similar use vehicle, but how about that type of aero on a vehicle such as a strict commuter car or how about a transport truck? Why? To reduce the weight of the vehicle transfering through the suspension thus reducing drag? ie a loaded transport truck weighs lets say 10000 lbs per axle. What if under the trailer (there is usually lots of open air under a standard box trailer) there was an adjustable wing of sorts that could be angled to increase lift to help reduce the load placed on the road surface. You would not want too much lift, but maybe enough to lighten the load a bit to help with fuel economy. Lightening the load by 10% would not cause the vehicle to loose so much traction that it may jacknife or loose control. This same idea for a LOW SPEED small commuter car. Again not trying to approach lift off, but just enough lift to lighten the load. I wonder the effects? would it work? Would it help? This was just a thought that popped in my head today when I saw a large transport truck with an impressive looking aero package on the truck AND box trailer. I recall an article about the Kenworth Aerodyne series trucks. I wanted to post this before I forgot about the idea, or dismissed it as crazy before I even had a chance to honestly consider it. Anyways, maybe some lift could be a good thing for specific uses with a vehicle. Scott

I know I know this thread is useless without pics, but since I don't own a camera phone, I just don't see enough of these things to be able to get a pic of them. Well like the title says. I saw a full size 18 wheeler, and the guy had massive spinners on his dually wheels! Very agressive looking! Sort of like a giant throwing stars! Man! If one ever came off, it looks like it would cut through a car like a huge saw blade! I've seen it all now!

I just took some casual measurement of my fore/aft placement. The 300zxt intake manifold is a very different shape than the pathfinder intake. My intake sits approx 1" from the firewall, and that places the back of the drivers side valve cover a good 3-4" away! You must have a very setback position for the gear shifter. I had to modify mine to curve slightly aft to get it to come up centred in my console. You may have to do the reverse! hehe Hmm never thought about pulling halfway on a scale. I'll have to give it a try sometime.

Looking Good! Wow! its great to see other OZC'ers having fun! Hope you can make the show. I hope mine will be megasquirted by then. Scott.

Tony. The steering issues arose (I talked with the guys who did the swap) With the motor being too far forward and raised (to clear the steering and alt) The motor is actually quite light. Nissan says it is approx 395lbs fully dressed with no tranny. The drivelines are realatively plentiful, but your right. The fab needed to get one installed properly takes skill/time and a ton of $ if you need to pay someone to do it for you. There is turbo/steering shaft clearance issues, alternator clearance issues, oil filter clearance, oil cooler lines, brake lines, exhaust etc etc. My swap is pretty bare bones, no air, no p/s, minimal engine electronics, modded tranny etc etc. Nothing overthe top difficult, but it does add up to a lot of work. Even with all the custom stuff, my engine is very easy to pull out. Bolts and mounts are accessable. There was a lot of thought and planning to make everything work as well or better than stock. Scott.