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Everything posted by AdreView

  1. It's difficult to tell with out quoting text who is responding to whom in this thread but I would like to add some info as I have been around the block several times with which direction to go for suspension modifications. Keep in mind this does not include any suspension linkage, control arms, etc as that is a entire convo in itself. Options are: 1) Replace strut/spring combo with drop in units, correct gland nut, retain upper mounts or use 240Z mounts to lower a 280Z slightly more. Wash hands and go drive. 2) Install a fully developed 2.5" ID coilover suspension for the Z (ie. McKinney, Arizona Z Car, etc.) with the weld in camber plates and tubes. Fab and welding required, additional height set-up and camber adjustability required. More for the advanced user. 3) Utilize a machined camber plate and tube combo (McKinney, Z Car Customs) with a "over-the-counter" 2.5" ID coilover system (S13 variant , Megan , Etc.). Same as #2 for install and adjustment. 4) Utilize bolt in camber plates (Ground Control, DP Racing, etc.) with any 2.5" ID coil (Swift springs, Ground Control Coils, etc.) and strut combo (Koni, Tokico, etc.) of your choosing. Avoids welding the chassis, but still required to weld/shorten the struts. Level up +1 install difficulty. 5) Retain oem struts (inspect and replace oil if necessary, higher weight?) install lowering springs (Suspension Techniques, Hyperco, etc.) and use 240Z upper mounts (if vehicle is 260/280Z) to effectively lower and stiffen ride height. Beginner approach, streetable, retain some comfort. 6) Bag it! Not gonna get too much into it. Price starts at $2,000 and goes up from there. Stance, slammed, adjustable ride height at the flick of a button. 7) Go all out and have a custom designed race suspension installed. 8) ? Any other options? Suggestions? Combos?
  2. So to statically lower more than swapping to a 240Z upper perch over a 280Z perch I would need to modify an aftermarket camber plate with an oem spring diameter upper perch OR just have someone fab up something around the oem mount. This would require some fabrication and welding.....huh
  3. If so, which camber plates can be mounted to the oem strut/spring assembly?
  4. Those are very similar to the Enkei 92's...I almost picked up a set locally but held off as they were 15x8 and I'm looking for 16".
  5. If you're referring to Toni L's rear end, the rear pan was cut out, replaced and shaped with new sheet metal. As for body kits, I have yet to see any that actually enhance the look and lines of the S30. One exception is adding a new front lower lip or fitting a urethane/fiberglass front bumper.
  6. Didn't you start this build around 1974? Just kiddin'....I always look forward to the updates.
  7. A 2+2 build I've been watching....I'll just leave these here.
  8. Use this tool to take the guess work out of fitment. Plug in the current and potential size you want to see if it'll fit with or without issues. http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
  9. I know most S30 owners go with 8" to 9.5" wide wheels, 7 should clear with no probs. As for the diameter, 16" is a good size both visually and purposely for the chassis. The offset preference is 0 for OEM fitment, +9 will put you 9mm closer to the struts, which shouldn't be an issue depending on the brand and size tire you go with. There is a limited number of newer age wheels that fit an S30 correctly, if all else fails with the install you can always measure and go with bolt on spacers, however you'll have to add that to the cost of wheel/tire package. Fwiw, I was recently going to pick up some +25mm Enkei 92's for my 2+2, I would have to add the spacers for sure in the rear +25 or thicker for the set to fit with no rubbing.
  10. Chiming in as well. I have recently acquired a '78 2+2 which I'll be going through similar to your thread. Also picked up a triple set of Weber 40 DCOE's! Thanks for the tutorial and generous pics and vids, they will come in handy when I begin the inspection.
  11. 43 pages, last post 05Jun12...time to bump it up. Awaiting a host of fine mods: If you look near the battery you'll see two black plastic devices previously used for the cruise control...which I yanked out. Who uses cruise control in a sports car!
  12. So I'm playing with the idea of using a S14 coilover system compared to a S13 on a '78 280Z. Not that I have an issue with the S13's, I'm merely attempting to determine if the S14 increased strut body length will provide a benefit or disadvantage. Lets say both systems have similar spring rates, size and length, plus strut specifications (dampening, rebound, etc.) I'm trying to focus on the below measurements for fitment. I'm looking for some input and technical guidance as to the following, which would be a better fitment for: -Ride height adjustment (streetable + capable to go low for show, autocross, etc.) -Custom machined threaded strut tube length (increased unsprung weight=longer tubes) -Any other variable I have missed while I'm trying to wrap my head around all of this. OEM suspension measurements taken mounted to vehicle from top of oem strut mount (typical camber plate mounting location) to location on knuckle where machined threaded tubes get welded. OEM length with vehicle weight on level ground: Front- 19" Rear- 24.5 OEM length on jacks with added droop: Front- 22.5" Rear- 26.5" All coilover measurements taken off vehicle, spring at rest, from bottom of camber plate to bottom of threaded strut tube. S13: Front- 16.5" Rear- 16.5" S14: Front- 17" Rear- 20" (perhaps too long?) Considering the weight of the vehicle will compress the coilover a couple inches, what would be the best scenario? Is the 20" length on the S14 (3.5" increase over S13 length) pose an install issue with lowering the vehicle inside the welded threaded tube? Do the smaller S13 lengths pose a comfortable ride height issue when raised plus the added tube length (added weight) required to mount them?
  13. Will these front coilover adjusters clear the hood with use of the T3 camble plates? Any updates to this install?
  14. Which style of lugs are you sucessfully using? Pic or link?
  15. I really have no history of the wheels and if they came this way or not. I was thinking sort of the same thing, every drill cut I have ever made to elongate holes never turns out good, these wheels appear damn good for elongated holes. They resemble a model of centerline, the only info molded into the wheels is: PRO WHEEL 14x7 I've searched for similar pictures of them and all I can find are these, which don't have an elongated bolt hole:
  16. From a structural/safety perspective, why would you not attempt to use them? This is what I was thinking the last owner did, shank lug system which would have to be used to secure it properly. Many folks these days are redrilling customizing and modifying sizes of wheels to fit on all sorts of sized hubs, I'm thinking this wouldn't be mush different. Since there is plenty of material on the wheel bore, I'm thinking of just having a welder close up the current twice drilled bolt holes and have a local machine shop redrill new ones at 4x114.3 just to be on the safe side.
  17. If you look at the bolt holes you can see a previous owner drilled them...well...IN toward the bore. Plus the rear bore opening was also drilled out sloppy on 2 of the 4 wheels as you can see in the pics. I have not a chance to measure but there is a 4x114.3 pattern in there as it test fit on my '78 280Z. If I go ahead and use these as is, would I be taking a risk in safety or should I bring them to a welder to fill in the holes and redrill to the correct pattern?
  18. AdreView

    1978 280Z 2+2

    The day I picked her up.
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