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Everything posted by AdreView

  1. I believe the wing came out excellent, it flows nicely without the end caps.
  2. Thanks for the reply, I have a lead on one for about $20 shipped. Still deciding on options though. That would be great, thanks again.
  3. Looking for a solid (surface rust ok, no rust damage) passenger side rear metal wheel well fuel filler neck protection plate. Paypal available, shipping to Round Lake, Illinois. This:
  4. I'm with NewZed, I got my 2+2 running smooth following the directions posted in my thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117526-l28e-tdc-verification/
  5. I'm in the process of cutting out and repairing the rust on my 2+2 which has only 10-15% rusted floor boards, firewall and front wheel wells. I would never take on the amount of rust seen in the photos you posted. There are many other early 70's coupes out there to start with with much less rust. This one looks like every exterior panel has damage and the entire interior will require replacement, god knows the condition of the frame and drivetrain. The money and time you'll spend on restoration of this Z is better off spent buying an almost restored early Z and finishing it off.
  6. Interested and interesting, once merged do we call this a Honsun, Datda, Hondsun, Datsda, HondaZ, ZeeHonda, or something else?
  7. Just read through the entire thread, excellent work restoring/updating all that is on this 240. The exhaust design was a great idea, love the vertical dual tips.
  8. This is quite entertaining...I may steal your Porsche 944 design element.
  9. Looks like I'll have to pull the bushing out again to lube it up. Thanks for the info!
  10. Z-FighterJoe, are those 14's you running with?
  11. I've noticed two different urethane steering coupler bushings being sold, one with all eight holes filled with metal sleeves and the other only shipping with four sleeves. I purchased the Prothane #14-701 and it came with four sleeves. Yet I see the Energy Suspension unit comes with all eight sleeves. So whats the deal with this difference? Stock on left and Prothane right: Energy Suspension:
  12. Very helpful. When you said the panels were spot welded then filled in was this all done by mig or tig welding?
  13. Received the timing chain tool, set the cam sprocket to position #1 and here are the results: Now I know that upon the rebuild they quite possibly used a new chain as you can see.
  14. John, is the area from the seam above the rail 2 pieces? I can stick my fingers up into a cavity between the inner and outer angled firewall section, is this normal/correct in design?
  15. Guys, How would one go about repairing a hole in the floor board where the frame rail, inner floor, outer floor and firewall meet? I'm looking for step-by-step instructions so that I don't compromise too much of any one layer here, if that's possible. Where the firewall seam begins to angle up from the floor there's 2 firewall sheets and what looks like a cavity in-between. Is this a location where 3 pieces come together, plus the frame rail over the lower pan? I can't seem to figure out or find schematics of this location in the FSM or anywhere else.
  16. Like tecreatta said, go with the one with less rust. The overall sheet metal condition will be the biggest factor in actually getting to drive either one of these safely on the road. For example, all original, running, rebuild motor, est 180,000 miles on the chassis. Picked up for under $3500.00 This is my '78 2+2, this was taken yesterday, just pulled off 95% of the factory sound deadening which is the only way to determine if rust or holes in my case lie below. As you can see, drivers side was patched by previous owner: Passenger sid
  17. Thanks, it's not cracked through or causing vacuum issues, its just an eye sore as some of the side tabs are missing. Btw, is this an oem cap?
  18. Waiting on delivery of a timing chain holding tool before I can proceed.
  19. Having not touched the cam sprocket setting from position #3 yet, these are the results after the hot valve adjustment and spark timing adjustment. Initially, the spark timing was reading at 20 degrees BTDC, I adjusted it to the factory 10 degrees BTDC. This is a warm start at about 800rpms per the factory tach (which I know is not very accurate): http://youtu.be/R702A_RQsJU Here is the fuel response: http://youtu.be/Tqqc5CK553U AFM and vacuum response: http://youtu.be/BRSdOKLuWTI This is what all the plugs across the board looked like without
  20. Tony, so the question is do I just stick with the current #3 "more oomph, because racecar" setting and go ahead per your instructions and adjust spark timing? Or...set the sprocket back to the #1 OEM spec setting and then go ahead with spark timing adjustment?
  21. Cold and Hot valve adjustment completed, across the board cold was out -0.001 on a couple of them. After cold adjustment I took these vids, idle seems smoother for the moment, but fuel is still off. Cold start: http://youtu.be/dLG_rGepSF0 After cold valve adjustment to warm up for hot adjustment: http://youtu.be/3KN7kZ57VJE
  22. Considering I pulled the rocker cover this afternoon for the first time, inspected the head, rotated the crank to ensure it had a timing mark, documented all the pics in the first post, all while doing a coolant flush and refill on a '89 Altima at the end of a long driveway (walking back and forth 4 car lengths) I made some good progress. AND I was almost there, seriously, even pulled out the feeler gauge and checked the #1 cam lobe along with 3, 7, 11...and then got pulled aside to clean out the trunk of another car, then dinner, then posting here, looked at time and had to clean up and hi
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