Hitman47

UTI`s at phonix arizona its so nice there and hottest girls ever. Wyotech is better for diesels uti is better for performance. And since im looking for performance im going there they do "hot rod" and "nascar" school Chad

Im going to UTI next semester and going to go to school for perf engeneering. Im hopefully going to recruit some friends i meet and get a hybridz company rolling. I mean order on demand hybridz`s. I want to eventually take say 101 shells made by some of the uti body guys and make a production car that looks almost the same as the 240z and then they could race in production classes with v8`s I want to use windsors with the 32valve heads and twin turbo`s ahhhh what a dream. But for real i am going to get some of my friends from there and we will have say 4 or 5 experts in performance body, engine/drivetrain and autocad and make some kick *** parts. What do you all think?

Wow that hangar18 site helped soooooooo much thanks alot man. Also with a 550 rwhp 383 inch 6.25 inch rod im not worried about lag or low end torque as a matter of fact i hope to hell it lags or im dead Chad

I agree with raygun you can do a diy or jy turbo with 15 psi for 700-1000 where is a 15psi vortech or paxton or ati is around 4000 If the cost were less i`d go supercharged due to low headaches but its not, so im going to have to keep exedrine migraine handy Chad

Ok parts list for a 315hp car I will list several ways to achieve this I will list them as a chart A-E .100" .200" .300" .400" .500" GT-40P=97 1/2 Explorer to present model spark plug clearence a pain in the ***. 61 128 169 195 196 GT-40=90-95 Cobra and all prior 5.0 explorers a better head than "p" when ported. 54 107 157 183 192 E7TE=Stock 5.0 head 59 114 144 156 156 '69 351W 52 103 149 174 183 289 50 97 127 156 165 GT-40 (Y303)=aftermarket 64 114 167 199 213 GT-40 (X303)=aftermarket 53 114 170 207 226 .100" .200" .300" .400" .500" GT-40P 52 90 123 135 139 GT-40 47 94 119 128 128 E7TE 42 78 105 115 116 '69 351W 48 77 100 113 118 289 37 71 93 104 107 GT-40 (Y303) 52 98 128 137 134 GT-40 (X303) 50 106 139 153 161 Comp Cams CCA-31-226-3 is same as ford f303 except flat tappet and only 104.95 http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/cca-31-226-3.pdf A`s setup is probably the most optimum and if done with more valve train componets springs/retainers/valves it can bea 6000 rpm 320 hp vette killer. But the intakes are harder to find so usually go with a carb and single plane intake for half the price. Explorers are becoing scarce, you can get a whole engine ready to drop in for about 1k. They are great motors they are superior to cobra engines in many ways intakes are better, they are distributorless wich means overall timing is not 36 btdc it is 6-8. Also the cams are b303 stock wich is alittle less steep that .512 lift. Heads cam Intake summit # a]gt40p/gt-40 CCA-31-226-3 Explorer/Cobra intake B through e are coming

I pulled the a brand new 7.3 liter powerstrokes turbo and going to use it they boost 30 psi stock. Also the efi 302 compared to carbed is the same ratio price as the 351 efi vs carb. How are you going to setup the blow through on the carb. Chad

Yes it will bolt the same, and for how reliable carbs are now i dont know why everyone dosent stay with them a holley double pumper and victor jr is a badass combo, but i can understand the efi appeal fuel curves at your figertips. Chad

rudypoochris asked a question that Sparked me up for this post. 1st thing I will explain is the trip to the junkyard swaps these are great because Alot of 5.0 mustangs have seen the end of their days at the JY. Parts at these places are usually reasonable. So now I will explain how to make a 315 hp realiable engine out of a JY. This is what I did to build a 5.0 to 315 hp RWHP for under 800$. I will list the steps then explain them. These are all relatively easy steps, I did this without even finding those gt-40 heads. 1-Find a 5.0 [preferably] out of an 86-93 engine. Use whatever 302 you can find and this will work. Make sure the car has relatively low mileage. You dont want a car that uses more oil than gas But you cant be to picky about it either you are getting a rocket ship for 800. I did a comp test on mine before pulling it. Part 2 coming in about 30 minutes.

Im going carb`d single turbo, Efi cost to much to buil past 400 hp. You need 565 hp at the crank to get 500 at the wheels. Im using a paxton style box that encloses the carb and using an 850 double pumper, with annular boosters. I would say if you went efi You would need to rebuild whole engine to forged steel to have a reliable 500 rwhp car=1900$. Then a tfs or edelbrock upper and lowr intake=5-600$. Then change thottle bodie and sensors and fuel rail and injectors about another 800$. A good data logger and tuner or chip 600$. Turbo-plenum 500$ Then afr heads another 1600$. And there You have it the parts only total of your ride. Then you need to get it dyno tuned by a shop 5-800$ for computer mapping and dyno whips. Installation of all this unless you really know efi[i mean really know it] 400-1000$. A grand total of about=6560 And i was being generous EFI once its setup is cool if your good with engine curves and laptops and usb cables, And a great chip mapping place. All stock sensors will not except 500 hp no matter what and unless mapping is perfect you will never get that much power out of an efi. Also beware if you lean it out on a turbo engine you will not might burn a hole in your piston,So usually you want the shop to install or bring on tow truck to where ever youinstall because stock chip mapping will kill your engine right away. My setup Full forged bottom End 383ci woindsor stroker 1900$. New block and machine work 500$. 850 double pumper and victor jr intake650$. Carbwork and turbo housing 450. carb tuning 200$ pro aluminum heads [2.05/1.60 210cc] 780$= 4030 but im getting a dyno`d 740 hp to the flywheel. and I was adding every cent i could here. Carb is good if you know a good carb shop once its dialed in thats it. But hey thats just me. Im sure someone will prove me wrong with a personal story of some sort but im just telling you through the "What can go wrong will" method of which i learned through tough breaks that in the high hp world always happens. Runnin a 300 hp turbo engine lean and a 560 hp motor lean are two differant animals. One is a daily driver the other is the hotest car around a 150 square mile radius. Chad

I want to pass on some knowledge to you ford guys that I have been learning, I mainly want to right this Thread so when you guys have your motors and are waiting on my kit to be completed or when you finish the mounts yourselves you can do simple and very worthwhile things i have learned about. It will be an ongoing Thread whereever or whenever I learn a trick or swap or anything that the average guy can do to increase the power and/or strength of his 289/302/351w/351c. I will also provide Links as much as possible. Also I have many connections to some of the parts I mention and will give you guys great prices so if anyone needs perf 5.0 parts let me know and i`ll see what i can do. So here we go.

Im finally posting my thread so read it for all your awnsers.

305 maybe you should buy my 5.0 I got. I pulled it from a 86 gt so i payed 300 for it but i ported the heads got a edelbrock performer and comp cam. I took the heads off and the pistons looked real good so i basically clean and inspected it and it looks good. So if you want a little more power package I could let it go for 750$ thats how much i have in it. But it sounds like for the differance of 250$ you get about 30-50 hp more. I actually think more. These heads would flow around 190 cfm @ .500 lift if i had to guess. And they flowed 140-150 stock. The Gt-40 p heads flowed 192. I heard that pro ported e7te heads [stock 5.0 heads] you get 215 cfm So im guessing that I will get 190ish flowing. Im not a pro head guy but i`ve done some nice work on alot of heads. Been doing it on chevys since i was 15.I ported a set of camel humps and increased its flowing by 85 cfm. Any ways You would get gt-40 "class" heads with a nice "hot" cam and real nice intake manifold on a good bottom end for 250$ more, Actually i was going to list it on ebay today, But i`ll wait for your response. Chad

Best combo for the price as far as fuel injection is is either 350 tpi [chevy] or 5.0 efi [ford] out of the 2 the 5.0 kicks the crap out of the tpi. TPI was a boat anchor. But a carbed 350 is hard to beat for price and ease of jtr install. Of course until my mounts are made lol To me though 50 lbs lighter distributor in frontadvanced efi system with great runner design you`d think i was talking about the great and expensive lt-1 [1250-2500] but no im talking about a 250-750$ 5.0. You see since the 5.0 kicked the hell out of the tpi chevy had to awnser back so they mounted the dist in the front like the 5.0 and changed that rediculous intake and runner design and made a quality efi system like the 5.0 and packaged a nice engine that did 6000 rpm`s out of the box like the 5.0 oh yeah it cost 1000$ dollars more. Choice is yours on tranny look back a few threads I explained trannys as best as my knowledge could serve. Chad

nice score man...Make sure it will hold up to your driving

Ok lets clear some things up the 351c was the best smallblock everbuilt in its time. If Performance heads like trick flow edelbrock dart word product etc wouldnt have came around it still would be the best. That AUSSIE head you speak of, Flow 330 CFM out of the box Thats 50 cfm`s more than afr`s biggest cnc`d head!!!! What the 351c engine is, is a 351w bottom end with big block heads. 2.19" intake and 1.7n" exhaust where the windsor had 1.78" intake and 1.54 exhaust. Hi-PO heads now a days are only 2.02/1.60. The cleavland was such a potent motor That when ford put it in a nascar it was outlawed!!! Bastard chevy guys cant just take there beating like men. Anyways the 351c was almost unconcievable back then. People do swaps now days. Ls1 guys put ls2 heads on for more hp, people scower the earth trying to find gt-40p heads out of 97-2000 explorers because they bring more compression and they have bigger valves. But the 351c was the first to do it. A small block body with a big *** set of hi compression heads and you have a bad *** engine. But now the head technology is so good they dont have much of advantage anymore...until all the companys star making there heads. If I were you guys I`d all buy or go to the junkyard and aquire a 351c block they run about 200$ now but my prediction they will be 800 in 3 years. As soon as edelbroks C head hits the market which it is supposed to in about 6 months every company will follow and when that happens these monster heads will put out 600 hp out of the box at the midrange head cost [World product iron heads] So imagine what AFR`s will do probably 800 hp out of the box. Think the big ported alum 460 heads push it to 600 hp but it cant rev due to such a huge rotating mass. Basically Big Block torque with Small Block reving and what is hp... torque multiplied by rpm. Imagine revving a 428cj to 7000 reliably. When Nascar banned the 351c The great HEMI was being used and it kick its *** badly, how badass does an engine have to be to banned due to unfairness against a HEMI... the awnser very bad ***. So all of you go out and get a 351c block its a great investment and also, we are making a kit for the C to fit in the Z. Right after we fit the windsor and 289/302 we are fitting the C. Chad

Sounds like most us ford guys are using our turbo`s to our advantage thats the reason i really think we have the upperhand on chevy is that there is so much info on making the 5.0/5.8 turbo`d. Thanks for the interest guys i`ll get the parts list tommarrow and post it. I think we may make an entirely new front crossmember as an option, for the more serious track cars that need more support. So basically you will have the option to buy the mounts or the front and tranny crossmember. Unfortunately I wont be able to price qoute the parts at this time because i would be lying if i said i knew, but If i cant make it comprable to jtr then im wasting my time, and you all wouldnt buy the kit anyways. I think the most advanced thing we are going to do will be the 9/8.8 inch setup that we are doing, It will be awsome if we can just bolt or tack weld a few mounts and stack a 9 inch in our cars. I still want to hear any ideas of parts you guys have wanted but no one carrys. Thats the reason i started this whole thing was because i couldnt get anyone to help me with my chassis so i bought a mill lathe tig welder and found a ace fab guy and now my goal is to help all you guys out with those parts that would complete your dream. I hope to just make enough money off this project to pay for my car and tools.

Have most the parts fabbed!!!!!!! We are close guys. Im hoping this will enable us to become neck and neck with our chevy brethren. Real fast who here would be interested in a strut export brace for the z? Also please sound off and tell me for all of you If you plan buying the kit[if its what you hoped] What year car you have what specific engine you plane running, HP range, tranny and rear end setup. Thanks guys this will help alot. Please guys I want to hear from as many guys as i can. This will help becaus ewe are trying to fab all parts for you guys now so we wont have to deny someone a specific part later by re-maiking parts instead we can make it ez now while we have our shop setup for it. Also list any special part Ideas you want so i can email you back to talk more specifics for your car. Hear is mine for Example. Mine is detailed you dont have to be as specific if you dont want to. 72 240z 351 w twisted wedge EFI with twisted wedge heads. Twin garret turbos. Shorty headers. goal=500 rwhp. T-56/Top Loader havent decided. Ford nine inch rear end. My other car 72 240z 5.0 with holley 4150 with gt-40 iron heads. Single IHI turbo. Shorty headers. goal=320 rwhp T-5/Top Loader Goal=Cobra Irs Thanks guys. Chad

Well it just so happens your in luck because for the past week ive been spending day and night on this problem for myself, since im doing the conversion kit for all us ford guys I went out and bought a cheap 5.0 and now im faced with tranny options. 1st off The order on manual`s goes as follows T-5:Possibly the easiest for you since it was made for the 5.0, but the weakest tranny overall. Anywhere from 210 lbs/ft tq to 310 lbs/ft. It has a nice .68 over drive though. If you decide to go t-5 make sure to get a 90-91 5.0 tag#1352-199 or 92-93 5.0 tag 1352-208. You know what im going to turn this into the tranny help thread, so people can ask me tranny questions so they dont feel as lost as I did. Any ways those years I just discussed had a 300 lbs/ft tq rating with case hardned parts, which isnt bad at all. t-5`s range=250-600$ used or rebuilt 995$ new Next is the T-45 a slighty stronger but still unliked in the 4.6 community some call it the unwanted step-child of the tremec family. Its not a super bad tranny but there are no good traights. For instance alot of people agree the t-5 is sub par but the price is almost hard to turn down for a guy like me who isnt going to have a god awful amount of power just yet The t-45 cost about the same as the rest of the tremec`s. And they are hard to convert to 5.0. t-45`s about $600-1000 used 1400 new. Next the T-3550 probably the most underated in the group. Can handle 350 lbs/ft tq but is way more sturdy than the t-5. My friend hade 379 rwhp in his heavy mustang and had 300 hard launches before it gave, if it were a 300 rwhp light z it may have lasted indefinately. This is a great tranny for the price, but people tend to say you need more strengh than you do. These are usually the weekend warriors who add a 300 shot of nitrous to there bone stock engine. The latest trend in the mustang community is to stick a tko-600 [600 lbs/ft] in a mustang whos added up HP [i mean adding a k&n that claims 4-11 hp, cold air intake which claims 5-15,exhaust claims up to 30, alum driveshaft claims another 30] equals 340 hp out of a 260 hp stock engine. The engine might just know be pushing the stock rating to its rear wheels, so the need for a 600 lbs tranny is rediculous unless racing on slicks launching and 5,000. My point is Aquire what you need for your driving style and car. 550-1000 used 1500 new TKO-3550,3650 etc:These trannys have improved synchros and hardned gears. Most tremecs the numbers stand for the torque rating. I.E tko-500 =500 lbs/ft tq $TKO-500=1700-2000 new TKO-600=2000-2500 t-3650=1000-1500 used 1695-1795 new Top Loader-4 spd: If you want a simple bullet proof tranny get a toploader I have one right now i`ll sell you for 500 They are the most tough factory made tranny ever. Ford designed them and tested them by taking the heavy 427 fairlanes with supercharging them to 1200 lbs/ft Tq and dumping the clutch 30 times in a row!!! The only disadvantage is no overdrive. But it is very hard to break them. One test lasted 348 launches and 1200lbs before it finnally broke that was after 15 driveshafts and 2 9 inch rear ends. T-56-6-speed can hold about 440 lbs/ft stock great tranny all the way around 5,6 gear are both O.D. I love the feel of shifting all these trannys internal rail is great but there is something about the wratchet feeling of a toploader or muncie tranny.

Can i fit or convert a wc checy into a ford mustang please help?

Its coming guys, to all the skeptics to say hey got to the junkyard and do them yourself...I disagree this is alot of work and our system when done will be done right no mounted on the existing crossmember. Hit

Ok boys not to long now before its buttoned up...but i need a rough head count of how many guys are seriously interested in a jtr/ford kit for around 500$ this depends how many kits im going to have fabb`d. So if you are serious say "I" So far its just going to be 289 302 351 in 240z 260z and 80 until i can get a zx and 4.6 to mock up. But otherwise its going great also I would like and ford guyz with v8`s to send me pics of there cars/motors so i can put them in themy manual. So if anyone wants to show off send me the pics. We also have a export brace that will fit the fi 302 and carb`d 302 351. Also If any of you have special needs or wants tell me while im fabbing maybe we can turn your dream to a reality. I want to pick all your brains. From bumper to bumper ifdeas would be great. You provide dreams we will try to make em ....Also i have chevy 327 with holley matedt to wc t-5 1000$ or winsdor takes it. Chad

Update hopefully tommarrow got surgery due to broken nose hopefully will be able to update Chad

Dont know what redline was stock on the 5.0 but the 4.6 gt 2 valve is 5,600 my friend learned the hard way that these engines dont like winding when he had his comp redline redone to 5950 and 300 miles later blew the engine. That was with a 4000$ head job and basically every bolt on and n/a part availible. The only advantages the 4.6 has over the 5.0`s are ones ford should have done to a new 5.0...Think about it. The 4.6`s best attributes are the OHC, All aluminum engine and more efficient FI system my whole theory is Stay with the light small bigger displaced 5.0 block or even 351 and make it even lighter with aluminum higher reving with ohc and slap on a more advanced fi system. I guess what makes me the most upset is that they didnt stick with what they knew. Why does chevy have such a leg up on new fords...the 4.6 is the awnser. While they got smart and went to dohc advanced fi system and kept the same displacment that has worked since the 60`s ford decided to make a bigger heavy smaller displacment engine. I think they shot themselves in the foot. Think about the camaro ss ls1 engine, for my friend to even compete with a ss he had to dump 5k in his motor right away, and the worst is if the camaro owner dumped in 2k he would still kick his ass. And why is the engine inferior not because of technology but displacement. Think how crazy a 351w with dohc [no push rods] that was all aluminum with the modern fi system would be...It would be a vette killer. Chad

I hate the modular engines...Boat anchors. Why would anyone spend 15 grand on a 400 bhp 5.0 when you could get a all forged 351w windsor that would blow that to bits. Much rather have this http://www.sidebysideengines.com/products.html#410 Now thats what i call a 15k engine. These new modulars are really a let down to me. What i dont understand is the 4.6 has the same stroke as a 351w now the 351 never had to thin of cylinder walls wich is mostly the reason for stepping down the bore size. So basically for took the nice 351 took away its already reliable bore, took away the hi reving short stroke of the 5.0 liter added enought inches on the motor so it was nice and plump and made a middle of the road engine at best. Could you imagine if ford would have made the windsor or cleavland all aluminum. Chevy`s performance branch would be dead and gone. To me an engine is only as good as its its platform. The modular has no reving compared to the 302 and no bore like the 351w. Very sad to me. Chad

Its going great guys, Ok 1st : We are trying to think of a front and rear crossmember system. Like the old ford y-blocks that had the bolt in the front towards the radiator this will not come with the base kit but only for windsor and hi hp 302/289 over 300 hp [only recommendation] We believe that by doing this it will make more othe front end a box rather than a triangle and thus make it alot stronger. So for the guys who dont know about the old y-blocks picture the 2 motor mounts towards the firewall [back of engine] then picture another crossmember {only 14 lbs} near the front located by the radiator with a motor mount there so when your high hp engine spins up its not putting all the rotating wieght on 1 motor mount. Then when you get traction and the front part of the chassis flexes it will use 3 mounts instead of 2. Also during decel. 2nd we want to make sure that this kit is 302/351 friendly aka minimal fab work for you guys... Thats why we get paid the big bucks We were afraid that since the deck height is taller on the 351 we may have to notch out the towers so we are placing the engine lower 1 1/2 inches this will solve that problem and also help hood clearence and majorly affect handling it will lower and push back engine. Lower and further back than the jtr kit means better handling. 3rd the rear will have a watts linkage with we think a 4 link from comp engineering. We are trying to figure out how to use the same strut towers. 4th I am basically tearing up my unibody and making the chassis bulletproof so eventually we will be selling all kinds of weld on and bolt on parts that would seem radical to some but a must do for a long lasting reliable car. For example we may eventually make a rear clip for the z where we give detaild instructions on where to cut your entire rear unibody section [seems like alot of work] and replace it with a already fab`d rear frame rail with sheet metal on top and strut towrs in a differant location so you can just seem weld a few seems bolt a few bolts and have the right mounting points for a 9inch from currie with coil overs. It sounds way out there but trust me if you want your car bulletproof radical mods are the only way so im trying to think of all the major problems and make them as headache free as possible for you guys. I have been trying to build my car for 2 years and im so tired of the aftermarket z company`s ignoring the problems [rear diff, chassis,old metal etc] Im treying to make the average joe able to make a mclaren caliber car for a fraction the price. Im planning on putting 10,000$ into my car and be able to take 120 k corvettes and i will thanks to the guys at the fab ford and a few trans am racers ive meet. And hopefully all my mistakes and bugs in my car will make our kits perfect and easy for you guys. Thanks for the constant support guys Im doing this for all us hybridz lovers who cant a foord shelby cobras or Vettes Chad