slyhog22056

Thank you, that is what i thought but wasnt sure. now to just get the crossmember notched out, braced and welded back up so i can get the front down far enough. Looks like my drive shaft wont be any shorter than the original one but i am definetly going to use the ford driveshaft and mill a adapter plate to bolt onto the diff end.

Didnt need drive shaft angles need to know at what angle the motor tilts back when the car is at rest. I think it is 3* because that is the angle my intake is milled at but not certain....

Yeah i just found out for myself tonight, put the engine for a test fit... no good news, wil have to remake the crossmember as it isnt deep enough, motor sits 3" too high in the front, i apoligize for making any accusations to anyone about it being wrong. will have to cut out the rear section of the regular crossmember between the rack mounts, motor wont go far enough back to drop below the crossmember. will have to make something to fit around the mounting points in front of the rack, plenty of 1/4" angle and flat iron laying around. headers i have rub the sides of the original frame so i will have to do something else there too and ..of course steering rod wont fit around the headers... will have to beat a few places in the trans tunnel too or just cut it out and patch it back together after wards....1 question though.. with the car sitting flat isnt the front of the motor supposed to be inclined about 3 to 5 degrees?? You know how it is once you hit 50+ i dont actually remember what it is supposed to be.

Well started to put my front crossmember in and found out that my 75 z isnt the same, the cad drawings say the top of the angle should be 2 1/2" well it was too wide, after powder coating now i had to go and cut off 3/8" on each side the outside width of my z is 29 1/2" guys please measure the outside dimensions before you have to cut and then re powdercoat everything. And the measurements for the cad drawings are from bottom of angle that sits on the frame to the bottom of the support are 9.75" after measuring mine i had to change this too as i only have 8.5" from top of frame to the bottom of factory crossmember and i didnt want this one to hang below factory crossmember. http://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion-files/240Z_Conversion_Drawings.pdf

Yeah... right, I would like to see proof of that.... Maybe 40 over a old half stopped up factory exhaust in some cases.

And here i thought i was crazy putting mine up in the air with a forklift onto 4' jackstands.... your way would make it easier to weld on "frame" stiffeners rather than overhead welding....

Be sure the straps that go around your legs are TIGHT, somewhere i saw a picture of a guy wearing the 6 point harness and it was slightly loose, and not adjusted to fit right. upon crashing into a wall his body stopped but his family jewels didnt, busted right through the sack....ouch http://briskoda.net/motorsport-discussion/h-s-caution-multipoint-harnesses-warning-explicit-gruseome-pics/129912/

Until you get the turbo in i would highly recommend cherry bomb 18" to 24" mufflers, after the turbo install no muffler is required, the turbo is the muffler. that is in almost every state inspection book i have read. my son is certified for inspections in 5 states and we looked it up and your state inspection laws are the same. North Carolina, right????

Would you trust 12 year old belts for yourself??? not on a track or street, and you shouldnt even consider letting a passenger use them either.

Why not try this remove the bar completely running from side to side and replace it with a bar running from top hoop outside corner and cross it to end up at the rear floorpan just in front of the taillight assembly, run a different bar across the top of the rear shock towers BOLTED on, not welded, hook your harness to the strut bar. mine is done like that and i can move my seat all the way back to within 3" of the rise behind the seat. welding in of strut bars isnt allowed in every kind of regulated racing i have been in, autocross, scca, and most every drag racing event i have entered. it doesnt have to encircle the strut, bolt 3" x 5" x 1/4" plates just outside where the struts are (where the old shoulder harness was) and use a weld 90 to rise up about 2" and run the bar across to the other side, kinda like an upside down "U" I used 1 1/2" schedule 40 erw pipe for my entire rollcage, which measures 1 7/8" OD which is good for cars up to 3000 lbs by most rules.

The article about the 240 swap wasnt so bad, a lot of very valuable info, as far as the mounts go i changed mine up somewhat and used double 1" schedule 40 pipe with 4" outside to outside dimensions with the same angles he used and made it removable from the 2 angle side frame braces, all for under $20 and 3 hours fabrication, the rear x member was easier, cut a 21/2" pipe coupler in half to form the arches for the exhaust and wels 1/2" flat between them and on the ends, $15 and 1 hour fab, quick and easy installs mean 1 thing to me ...failure along the way, doing it right the first time, z frames are not easily straightened.

Well i believe it will work then especially since yours is a lot lower than mine, this is a lincoln towncar 302 and has a 6 rib pulley so i am assuming the belt inside runs around the pulley. if it was a smooth pulley i could understand running under it with the outside of the belt with a tensioner.

As a licensed cehicle inspector for the state of texas the law read Db testing to be done at 30 ft from the rear of any vehicle at idle. Meaning side exhaust would easily pass. Front and rear bumpers are not required. side markers are required, not necessarily direct lighting but vehicle must be lit in some way front and rear on both sides. believe it or not a guy came in with reflective tape inside his front headlight buckets that did reflect light making the car visable from the side at night and another guy mounted led's under his bumper lip that also had to say was legal. Why not license it as a antique??? that lets you get away with a lot of stuff. Personally i ran turbo mufflers with a cut out that routes the exhaust around the muffler and back into the rest of the system. cutouts are only illegal "IF" they lead to another open pipe, by law my way is classified as a bypass system and nothing is mentioned about that.

Dont know if new is available, check with Blackdragon .com they carry almost everything, i kept the spare rear window from a 76 i scrapped out if you still need one. can send pics if needed

Taht is sad to see all of the Z's sitting and rusting away with so many of us needing parts as well as entire bodies... sniffle sniffle too bad it is soooooo far away from dallas....

Well went to pepboys and fount they have a 39" belt but not the 38" version. Got it home and realized it measures 40" so i remounted the alternator and made it work, sure hope it dont interfere with anything hanging that low once i install the motor in the 500 Z

Ok, got my 500 Z engine ready and trying to install all the front end stuff but cant find the correct length belt to drive the waterpump and alternator. I need a 6 rib serpentine belt, 1" wide and 38 3/4" to 39 1/2" in length. Been searching all over the net and cant seem to find anything even close. Does anyone know a source, connection or even where to find 4 hole v belt pulleys for the crankshaft?? I will change to v belts if necesary. The crank pulley has to be the outer one of the 2 with a dish of 1 1/2" to 1 5/8" to the inside edge.

Looking for someone to lazer cut or waterjet some emblems for my 500z project. wanting both front fender emblems and rear script emblem. will read Datsun 500 Z. Want brass or alumunum. 1/4" thick original width and length. Cant find the correct font to have drawings made only the original emblems or a photocopy to go by.

If you guys read the article about the 5.0 into a z swap the guy there designed and has cad drawings for motor mount crossmember and rear crossmember for the tranny mount. They can be found here...http://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion-files/240Z_Conversion_Mounting_The_Engine_and_Transmission.htm I used his measurements but built mine out of 1 1/2" ERW pipe for the engine mount and 2 pcs of 1/4" plate edge welded together for the trans mount. These crossmember allow you to use any mounts you would like, i would definetly not recommend any kind of solid mounts. rubber mounts with a retaining cable or chain yes but not solid. About the only differences between the z and zx would be the inside width for the angles that ride on top of the frame.

have bought 3 different sets of the shorty headers, seem to dump in the right place but wont know till install time. Biggest problem is they seem to be pointing to the firewall and the spread across the exhaust bores is different by about 1/4", got a torch and welder to fix that though but will find out later about the firewall problem. I still have the cast iron manifolds if anyone can use them.

I will take everyones word for it, i already have it welded and been running auto x with it like it is, just waiting for new poly bushings, already went through my second set of rubber ones. now just to finish the 302......

Well i didnt figure the r 200 would hold up very long, autocrossing almost every weekend and 2 to 3 trips a month to the local strips and street driving all with a locked diff. but i guess i will tke your word for it and just upgrade the bushings front and rear to neoprene.

has anyone looked at the sticky for putting a 5.0 in an s-30?? in the s-30 forum here. this guy built his own and includes cad drawings.

Does anyone know of any stock rear end that will fit width wise under a 76 280Z. building a 350 HP motor for it and really want to put a 4 link and wide 5 wheels under it. Cant afford a custom or a narrowed rear end. It can be no more than 2" wider overall that stock widthwhich is 53" Again any and all help is appreciated.

Dayum dude, i got more information just from your 1 "article" than i have from months of surfing all over the web. From me and my son, and a lot of others...THANKS. I came here with a header question but after just browsing your article, you have answered every question i have had for a while now, but if i have any more i am sure you have it covered... Now for my 500 Z project to start