beaniam

I have a 77 280z with a l28et swap running turbo dizzy and gm 4 wire HEI on megasquirt. I went to swap the no name module out for a pertronix d2000 flame thrower to rule out a random no spark issue. I swapped it in and it will start and idle fine but as soon as you give it any throttle it starts to lope bad like it's getting spark cut out. Swap the old module back over and it runs fine. Anyone run into a similar issue with a d2000 module?

bump, still looking

Looking for a pair of 280z rear strut tower isolators. Currently running 240's but I want to bring it back up about an inch. What do you have? Shipping to 08015.

Back from tint.

finished up the zg flares

I've looked at your thread before but just realized you ran it at Englishtown and you're in NJ. My car is at work in Manalapan while I've been painting it. Let me know if you plan on heading back to the track any time soon. I'd like to see what my junk does before I dig into the holset swap.

Got tired of the various shades of black primer so I painted it. before During After

Just picked this up 7 blade 56mm 12cm HX35w from a 99-02 manual dodge cummins. Starting to piece together what I'll need and start on a new downpipe.

I'm guessing somewhere around 60-70 on shipping from WI to NJ? 3.54 or 3.90?

Looking for a reasonably priced r200 3.54 or 3.90 rear preferably with the stub axles in the NJ area or someone willing to ship to commercial address 07726 zip.

I'm considering a hx35 swap, I thought the t3 flange bolted right up? You had to redrill? edit: oh a year and no updates nevermind I guess

Are you still looking? I have a 3.90 R180 but I'm in NJ.

it's in. I don't know about bolt spacing being different. The r200 bolted right up in place. Someone must have swapped the r180 in. There were spacers between the mustache bar and diff cover. The only thing I had to address was shortening the driver side halfshaft by about an inch. Turns out the r180 was a 4.11. Guess someone got it cheap. The turbo likes the 3.54 a lot better. Double win for me.

On http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm it states there are 3 mustache bars, a flat, an offset and a more offset one. The bar in my car is not flat but I don't know if it's offset enough for the r200. I have also read you can flip them around for the r200 to fit. The internet is such a crap shoot of all kinds of misinformation and threads that never get resolved. I'm just going to have to get under it and try it myself and see what I need.

Having read that link I'm still a little in the dark. Seeing as this is a 280 and not a 240 that means my mustache bar will work as it's not a flat 240? I don't have to address moving the diff forward as it's already in the same place as the r200 280z's. The mounting holes for the diff cover on the mustache bar are in the same spots in the 280 r200 and r180 cars? R180 and R200 280z's share the same front diff mount? Now as far as I can tell all I need to possibly address is the short side half shaft. It may bottom out as I'm about 2" lower than stock and they are basically straight out from the diff at right height, no angle taking up some width. edit: looks like the front diff mounts are the same judging from http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/diffswap.html

So r180's use a yoke axle not a companion flange? I guess someone already swapped to stub axles and r200 axles because that's what I've got. Well that's less stuff I've got to source I guess.

The narrow width and bolts holding the stub axles in made me think r180. It looks like the rear transverse in the car is already curved like the r200 cars. I've also read the front diff mount is the same? I haven't been able to find much info on 77-78 r200 swaps, just swaps into 240z's. I've also read all halfshafts are the same length. Such a mixed bag of info is floating around. Makes me think I could get away with just finding an r200 mustache bar and using my halfshafts. If the shorter side shaft bottoms out then I should be able to cut a little off and use it. Just really don't feel like tearing the car apart and finding I need something I'm missing and have to put it back together. Yes you're right about the threaded studs. The r200 I have has them.

Went to swap in my welded r200 3.54 rear today and to my suprise it looks like there's an r180 in the car. At least I think it is. Maybe it was originally an automatic car? Guess I've gotta find some more unexpected parts before I dig back into this.

Well they're in. I also dropped the tank and checked everything over. New fuel filter, replaced tiny 1/4" barbs that were on the walbro with 5/16, removed dampener and isolated the walbro in the bracket. You actually have to try and hear the pump running now. No more yelling over the annoying whine of it. My tune needs some adjusting still. Cruises around 13.7-14 afr but under boost I'm almost down to 10. I backed off on fuel pressure a little. 32psi with vac line connected. But otherwise it's never run this well. Even idles smooth with no missing or studdering. I've really gotta get started on the next project, an hx35 swap.

They are new injectors. I don't know how or why but something was causing it in that fuel map. I loaded a backup from a couple months ago and it's running great. Albeit richer than I'd like. I'll have to mess with veal. Gotta start looking for a hx35 too.

Well I'm stumped. I've got the pump and fuel tank off the car and the pump directly powered by a jump box in a can of gas with a strong shooting stream of fuel shooting back out of the return line and a steady 35psi while running. It still leans out. I don't get it I haven't changed any computer settings, starts, runs then the afr climbs to 17, it lopes, drops back down to around 12 and repeats. Usually stalling. New aeromotive fpr, new bosch 440cc high impedance injectors. Any quick settings to give a look at that may point to this? Wideband sensor going bad? Driving me nuts. It went from leaning at wot and boost at the start of this thread to not even idling at an acceptable afr without loping with no computer settings changed. New injectors to replace the venoms and the new FPR. I've found the only way I can get it to idle decently is to raise the required fuel all the way up to 11ms

so does this look like a partial clog? http://youtu.be/ZMPwz6g3ZvM can't really find any videos of a walbro 255 flow rate but I'm guessing this isn't very good. It's weird pressure never drops when running, just starts leaning out. guess I'll drop the tank.

Shiny new 440cc's from osidetiger.com Hoping it's running a lot better tomorrow when they go in.

just figured I'd stick with high as that's how I'm currently set up. MS1v2.2 does high or low but I've seen mixed information on how well it does low without resistors.

I sent them a message a while back. Said they don't have anything in the 11mm high impedance flavor.