10HBMartian

After the wiring I got the dash in and started on the interior stuff. I make carbon fiber panels for the S30 platform. i havent put one in this one yet, but i plan to later. I got a few goodies like a new steering wheel and some mirrors. not oem datsun mirrors. but its just for now. I decided to only put one on the driver side. I got some free toyota starion seats from a friend for it. decided they were better than the 30th anniversary camaro ones in it before.

So First thing I set out to do after the motor was dropped in was get it wired and running right. I spent nearly 3 months running through wiring diagrams. figuring out the switch positions, and all accesories. I wanted to make sure I would have to reenter the wiring system for at least another 30 years. haha

Hey guys I have a 260Z ive been working on for about a year. It has been gone through completely. everything is new or refurbished on it. The previous owner did an amazing job with the body work. All I did was finalize the LS swap and pretty much anything else. When I got her she was basically a rolling shell. It originally was going to have a 2JZ swapped in it. But I had bigger plans. My friend fabbed up some custom motor mounts for the LS. It places it 4 inches lower and 2 inches further back than any other kit out there. its practically a 50/50 balance now. only around 50-60 extra pounds over the original motor. I worked for a few months to get the wiring done on it. everything electrical works. I even did the honda windshield motor upgrade. completely fabbed up my own heater system. The amount of work ive put in this thing is ridiculous. Below is a list of things that went into the build. I didnt get too many pics when the motor was dropped in, but ive got plenty of pics of the rest of the build. SPECS Heads :GM 799s Ported & polished Block: GM LQ4 New GM head gaskets/ blasted chem bathed and rehoned. Intake: Edelbrock 29087 Victor Jr LS1/ LS Carb spacer Carb: Holley 750 CFM double pumper Ignition: MSD 6LS Fuel intro: ¼ inch aluminum line paired with Carter Competition Series Electric Fuel Pump 100 gph Free Flow , 6-8 psi output/ Standby mr gasket electric inline pump installed $320.00 Valves/ retainers: GM OEM LS6 Cam: GM LS-7 Headers: JTR 1-3/4" primary tubes, 3" collector Exhaust: 2.5 inch straight through to an 18 inch crossover muffler back to 2.5 to rear. Trans: 700R4 with transgo shift kit and B&M pro series ratchet shifter 2400 Dacco stall converter Diff: R200 with OBX lsd and hardened washers installed Stock rebuilt axles EXTERIOR Body : Fully shaved bumpers. Sand blasted undercoated. painted New rubbers on all windows Dash/ din steering wheel Z store cover ,full Doors Panels and hardware mirrors etc. Wheels: Rota RBR 17x7.5, 17x9, bridgestone blizzak lm22, mickey tompson drag radials Spoiler: BRE front air dam, custom rear spoiler Wiring: Keep it clean wiring harness. 21 circuit. Misc: All other random things. Bolts, wires, connectors, fuel cell, roll cage, switches, radiator, fans, intake, brakes, wheel spacers, misc electronics, etc. new , replaced/ refurbished

this is where I am so far. its not everything. and I do 90% of work on it myself. So no labor. Heads GM 799s Port & polish $500.00 Block GM LQ4 New felpro head gaskets New felpro head gaskets $2,200.00 Intake Edelbrock 29087 Victor Jr LS1/ LS Carb spacer $300.00 Carb Holley 750 CFM double pumper stock $420.00 Ignition MSD 6LS Programmed accordingly $350.00 Fuel intro ¼ inch aluminum line paired with Carter Competition Series Electric Fuel Pump 100 gph Free Flow , 6-8 psi output Standby mr gasket electric inline pump installed $320.00 Valves/ retainers LS6 equavilent Stock $400.00 Cam The real question lays here. UPGRADE stock Gms Hot Cam install eventually Headers JTR 1-3/4" primary tubes, 3" collector $500.00 Exhaust 2.5 inch straight through to an 18 inch crossover muffler back to 2.5 to rear. custom $500.00 Trans 700R4 with transgo shift kit and B&M pro series ratchet shifter 2500 stall converter $1,200.00 Diff R200 with OBX lsd and hardened washers installed. Stock rebuilt axels $700.00 EXTERIOR Body Fully shaved bumpers. Sand blasted undercoated. painted New rubbers on all windows $7,200.00 Seats Nothing special. $0.00 Dash/ din steering wheel Z store cover ,full $220.00 Doors Panels and hardware mirrors etc. $400.00 Wheels Rota RBR 17x7.5, 17x9, bridgestone blizzak lm22, mickey tompson drag radials $1,800.00 Spoilers BRE front air dam, custom rear spoiler $320.00 Wiring Keep it clean wiring harness. 21circut $300.00 Misc. All other randon things. Bolts, wires, connectors, fuel cell, roll cage, switches, tape, shrink wrap, fluids, radiator, fans, intake, loom, steering supplies, brakes, wheel spacers, etc etc. $3,200.00 Total Rough estimate on most parts. This is not including the labor I put in and the things i had laying around the shop while building the car. $20,830.00

ok so a week ago i tried to wire in a radio in my 77 280z. it ended up not working right so i just pulled it back out. a few days later it failed to start. i charged the battery all night then it was working properly for a few more days. then it just wouldnt crank up unless jumped. i replaced the battery and alternator. and checked connections everywhere. it ran fine for a while. then the other day it drained itself dry. i jumped it. it ran fine for a few then slowly lost charge. every since i put on the new alternator it has the charge light on on the dash. its just a stock 280z alternator from advanced auto. i unplugged every thing under the dash that wasnt necissary like the heater blower, radio harness just in case it had a short. i looked at the little relay onder the passenger seat too. it looked fine no shorts. im at my end with this electrical monster and any ideas would help greatly. i looked around on here but nothing specific to my case turned up. thanks

ok so i fixed the problem. turns out it was a melted fuse housing. i just re sodered the old fuse holder to a new wire. installed a new fuse and then it all worked properly. but now the damn turn signals wont work. the hazards work fine so i think it might be a switch. lol did i mention how much i hate electrical. especially on old cars. im going to custom fab a newer fuse holder in there so i dont have the blown fuse problem so much.

oh yeah this is what im going for. a little bit of flat paint can go a long way with the right creativity!

a few parts sanded and started the front bumper. i hate sanding.

motor pics, raw after i installed the griffin 3 core radiator and the E-fan and thermostat. took all the ac stuff out as well. (if any one wants it they are free to pick it up.)

after i sanded the side i decided to primer camo it. lol it wont stay long dont worry

some beauty shots after i took apart the upper head and rebuilt it.

and this is how you lower you datsun for 50$. go to your local fasten all and buy 4 two piece shaft clamps ( btw they are rated for 6000 lbs each). place it on the strut tube where you ant to drop it too. I chose to lower it 3 inches in the rear and 4 in the front. cut off the old ring at the bottom. grind the weld away, and walaaa. youve just lowered your z for 50$ and its actually safe.

just a little body work. i hate body work. also installed some zg fender flares.

the rear after i cleaned it out. not a single rust spot anywhere. oh the z was origionally from texas like me! explains the minimal rust anywhere on the car.

the origional owner gave me this turbo setup as well. idk if i want it to go on though. id much rather have a tripple carb setup or just tweak the FI setup to my liking and run megasquirt.

so here was the inside before i cleaned it out. needless to say the previous owner neglected her. there was only a small amount of rust on the passenger side floor board. suprisingly enough. the driver was perfect. i just cut it out and welded in some patches.

ok so ive had my z for a couple months now and i though id post some foward progress. i got it pretty much stock. not a whole lot done besides asthetics. i will slowly be going through it cleaning her up and making it run for autoX races eventually. well without further ado here it is.

I know there are plenty of posts about tail lights, and running lights, but trust me none fit my problems. So i have a 77 280z to start with. a few weeks ago my dash lights and brake lights stopped working. idk if the brake lights ever worked though. Just recently the running lights stopped working. I have headlights, blinkers, and hazards. Afte checking with a voltometer i can see the switch works properly, and the fuse is good for the brakes as well. When I push the pedal i get like 13V across the fuse, just nothing at the rear tail lights. i checked the bulb housing. I also took apart the passenger side and examined the wires. There was no sign of a short or ground anywhere there. I bought a new brake light switch just to see, that didnt fix it either. its weird. like i said the headlights work, and blinkers/ hazards too. just no brake lights running lights or dash lights. All fuses appear to be fine. any input would be nice thanks guys.