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About gacksen

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  1. Hello, i was having a look in google to find something out but even with the part number of the nismo retainer versions i could find no supplier of them. My current valve spring OD is 1.37" or 35mm. Could the valve retainer be the regular stock one ? Also have taken some pictures of the pad and rocker arm. Wipe pattern is way way off. Had the car checked over by a friend last year but seems he did not set the lash correctly or check the wipe pattern. Maybe it´s good that it happend so ill read myself into this matter and will try to make it as good
  2. Hello, have lost a lash pad at high rpm on the autobahn yesterday. Luckily pad was laying next to the valve. Looks like the retainer of cyl. 2 exhaust is toast and i will need to replace it. Bought the car several years ago but do not have any specific infos on the motor except as L31 and reworked E88 head. No info on cam and springs. Has E30 marks on it but already got mentioned looks like a regrind. As i did not work on that motor before i have read that geometry and wipe pattern is important for the rocker am. of course also valve lash. in regards
  3. Hi Gents, anybody of you running ITB´s in the Z ? Have ditched the triple weber 45´s and setup up the jenveys with an aftermarket ECU and wideband lambda. My question is at what AFR are you aiming at idle / part throttle and WOT ? not sure at what the engine likes so far. Have tuned some honda K20´s with the wideband and had them until 50% throttle at 14.7 and then slowly to 13.0 at full WOT. Maybe somebdy can shed some light ?
  4. the alcantara dash looks yummy !
  5. depends on what you want to have. there are people that like it stock. others like it slightly modded and the other guys go down the full route. if would like to have a fully modded Z would get that kit and put a big engine in it. if it won´t deliver as it looks would be senseless. remembers me a little of that built : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfaC0YIU26k&index=1&list=PLVCFddyDNwsbdZFZhmBEVrD0T_rAiJLXM
  6. Have the same ACZ LCA ..... only thing that worries me is that the tube on each side is only secured via clamping force. have thought about getting a hole drilled on each to secure them with bolts once found the right setup.
  7. looks like the guys had some fun thx for sending over the header. have received it in the meantime but could not put it in yet.
  8. thanks a lot for your detailed explanation. makes perfect sense. will get that curve onto the dizzy once i have my front fenders back from the paintshop. less parts on the car means more talking once the police pulls you over
  9. thanks for all the support and detailed descriptions. bought the car used in CA last year and the engine builder passed away in the meantime. what i do know from the mechanic of the seller is that the CR should be around 9.5 and cam should be around 270 - 280 of unconfirmed lift and duration. he told me that he remembered total davnce should be 32 and as per their test not exceed 34. as for the fuel in germany we have 98 RON octane available almost anywhere. if needed 102 octane is also available at some stations a little extra but normally i use the 98. i remember there there had
  10. thanks Zed will need to take the car on a dyno to get an AFR plot and try a revised curve. in general would have thought about something like this ? after having read the postings.....
  11. Hello, just had a quick look at the curve the guys at the carb rebuilt shop put into my tune 123 dizzy. as for the all the other cars i know the total advance should come in around 2500-3000rpm or am i wrong ? 3x 45 webers with vac disconnected. have attached dyno sheet and dizzy print
  12. after the new gearbox had been in i tried the following. adjusted the slave pushrod so that no slack had been on the fork. drove the car and crunch had been there in all the gears. more noticeable in 1/2/3 than 4/5. next adjusted the pushrod on the slave with more force means the throwoutbearing pressing on the pressure plate with not engaged clutch. after having done this there was also crunch but not that bad as before. this would bring me to the conclusion that the slave has not enough throw to fully disengange the clutch. next step is either to reduce the bore of the slave or increase
  13. will go also with the RKR but with smaller tyre sizes like 225 and 245 didnt do much those days due to regular work. put in more interior and hazzled around with the headliner. finally got it in but it felt as you need 10x hands to get it done properly. sides had been way more easy with the heat gun. front windscreen is back in now. exchanged the gearbox to a fresh rebuilt one with perfect synchros and still not shifting properly. bled the clutch and it was not getting better. have taken a deeper look into this and it seems a wrong master slave combo had been used on the car. current
  14. would be interessted in 3/4" primary pipe Full-race header. do you have a quote for s&h inside europe ?
  15. thx for the pictures. i do get the point now in moving them upwards that they won´t sit as low. had to much regular work the last weeks so could not motivate myself to get back working on the car. got it back from the paintshop two weeks ago that got rid of some overpainted old rubber seals and in the meantime fabbed up new TB for my rover v8
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