Serban

Doesn't look like it's showing in the picture. The one I'm talking about is almost like a scissor spring (if that's even a real thing), and when the two rods cross it puts tension on them. Guess the best thing to do is swap them from one door to the other. I was just trying to avoid doing the work twice. I'll post up a picture tomorrow.

I'll swap them over from door to door this weekend, and get a picture during the process.

It's not gummed. I've had both door panels off, and can see the spring on one door, but not the other. I can always swap over that spring, bur preferred to have both doors work.

No idea what it's called, but there is a spring that keeps the tension on the door lock knob rod. My driver's side door does not have it, so when I unlock the door and pull the key out, the knob goes right back down, there's no tension on it to keep it up. So I have to unlock the door, and keep the key twisted in the lock while I pull the handle to open the door. It becomes annoying when you're carrying stuff in one hand and you need to use both to open the door. If anyone has the lock assembly out of a door, I'd be able to identify it. All of the exploded diagrams I've seen don't show it.

I've got a manifold and SU round tops from a 72. The linkage is missing, and there may be some other small parts missing. I got it in hopes of converting my 75 EFI to carbs, but decided to leave it alone. Make me an offer... I have the air cleaner box too.

I've considered every possible swap scenario for my 75 Z, and being that I'm a pretty die hard SR20 fan (going back to the late 90s), I think that's the swap for me. My question is; will the A/C compressor clear the steering shaft? Every picture I've looked through doesn't have the compressor in place and it looks like it may not clear. The one topic I found on here, the guy says he's still got the A/C compressor on the engine, but no other info or pictures. The car is not my daily driver, but when I do drive it, I like to be comfortable and have A/C. It's not going to be a track car, so I'm not concerned with the extra weight. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hey everyone....me again. I need another one of these bolts. Let me know if you've got one.

I've been busy with the car the last few months, lots of little repairs, and I've been driving it around a few times a week. It drinks through gas like crazy! Rock Auto has become by favorite place to shop for parts I've changed the following: Left front caliper Brake shoes 4 new brake lines Lower ball joints Outer tie rod ends Rack boots Sway bushings End links ...and probably more stuff I'm forgetting All that for less than $200 Finally picked up a set of wheels. Not 100% sure on the brand, but I'm guessing Konig Rewinds. They even came with race tires. Wheels are 15x7 with 0 offset. Tires are 225/45/15. I'm planning on getting some 225/50 tires to replace these. I even put the fart can from my 240SX exhaust on. It's temporary, but its better than original swiss cheese one. Fresh front end, no more play in the wheel. Dash cap that I got for Christmas And I moved the wideband gauge up where the clock was, since it doesn't work But now I have room for a radio!

A week later, and the car is still ok. Not sure what to make of this whole thing, but whatever it was, disconnecting the battery overnight cured it.

Got home tonight and decided to give it another shot. The car started fairly easy, ran rough for a few seconds, but eventually cleared up and idled fine. Let it idle for a while, turned it off and on several times, and everything seems ok. Could it be the ecu just needed to be reset? I'll check it over the next few days, and see if I can replicate the problem, but as of now, it seems to be ok again.

After the rapid clicking, sometimes it maintains fuel pressure for a few seconds, then it drops to 0, other times it holds it longer Thanks for the info, I will look for the transistors. Are they inside the ECU, or outside of it located in the kick panel? The injectors are high impedance (I believe 12ohms) vs the stocks which are low impedance. I've been told going with a higher impedance injector is fine, its when you go lower, you need resistors.

Regulator is fine. I do have a fuel pressure gauge mounted on the fuel rail, and when it runs, the pressure is right where it needs to be. Plus I've tried disconnecting the vacuum hose from the regulator to see if that affects anything, no fuel comes out. I haven't checked the air temp sensor, but the water temp sensor is new. Guess I'll find a noid light to try the injector plug trick. I pulled the manifold off, and cranked to see if the injectors are firing, they were, none were stuck open. And pressure remains in the line once I shut the car off. On a side note, can someone with an EFI setup chime in on this...once the car turns off and the ignition is still on, after a few seconds, I get rapid clicking from the injectors, like they are being energized. Is that normal?

Also, I know a couple of those sensors on the thermostat housing communicate with the ECU and affect fuel delivery until car is up to temp. I've had them disconnected before to see if it would affect startup or warm up in the past, but even with them disconnected, the car would always start. So I doubt my problem is there.

Quick background on the car. Its a '75 CA model. I recently replaced the stock injectors and fuel rail with a custom top feed o-ring style rail and Ford 19lb injectors. This setup has been been problem free for over a month. On to the problem...3 days ago as I was getting my A/C charged (its Florida, we need it year round), the car just stalled, which I thought was weird. Try to start it, and it will not fire. Spark is good, the engine just floods before you can even start the car. If I unplug all the injectors and crank, it'll run until it burns the residual fuel in the cylinders, as soon as I connect the injectors and try to start it, same problem. Pinching the fuel line will get the car started, but fuel psi gauges shows 0 psi for pressure. As soon as you give it a little gas, it runs very lean, maxes out the wideband at 18. I disconnected the battery cables and left it like that for 24 hours, once I connected them, and cranked the car, it fired right up, and idled great. Fuel pressure was mid 30s. I let it run for 15 minutes, revving the engine a few times during that time, even turned the A/C on to see if it would replicate the problem, but it ran fine. I decide to shut the car off start it again....same problem, floods the engine before it can fire. Could the ECU be the problem? If it was an injector issue, it would be one or 2, I've ran into that problem before. And it wouldn't just all of a sudden work again. Maybe the AFM is the problem? Anyone ever experience this before? I'd like to pick up another ECU and try that. Is there any difference in the 75 or 76 non CA ECUs, or even the 2+2?

I put the sensor back in, not sure if it does anything different. Wideband is also installed. At cruising speeds and part throttle, it's in the 15-16 range, full throttle in the mid to high 12s. Off throttle and idle in the low 11s. So it's a bit rich at idle. Can this be addressed with making adjustments on the AFM?

There is a catalyst light on the dash. Don't think I ever saw it turn on though.

I noted in the last post, the car is a California model. The image I posted was from the Nissan FSM, page number EC-16. FSM is for a 75 model, so it may just be specific to that one. Here's the full page. Still using the stock FPR for now. That picture is before I took out the Odyssey battery. I've got a full size one in there now strapped down good until I can come up with a mounting solution for the Odyssey.

These are high impedance injectors. I was told I can use them without any problems. Its going from high impedance to low impedance where you'd need resistors. A 6% increase shouldn't be this bad though? I imagine it would run a little rich though. My car is a California 280Z, and it did come with a cat and that sensor, which the FSM calls a "catalyzer temperature sensor". Isn't the floor temp sensor in the trunk just above the muffler? Here's what the sensor I took out of the cat looks like. I wasn't sure if it was an O2 sensor or not. I'll top off the tank to see what kind of mpgs I'm getting. Here's the location of the sensor from the FSM.

Hey everyone, I tried searching for this several different ways, and wasn't able to come up with anything relevant. I've got a 75 CA 280Z which came with a cat, as well as the catalyzer temp sensor. I recently took the cat off (original one, yikes), but have not welded a bung in the current piping to reuse the temp sensor. Is this sensor truly required, and does it act anything like an O2 sensor? I'm really curious if this is causing the high fuel consumption, or if it's something else. Current setup is a stock L28 with a custom made top feed fuel rail with Ford 19lb injectors. The car runs fine, but after 75 miles, it's down half a tank! I plan on putting my wideband gauge on the car this weekend, I am curious how rich this car runs. I'll weld in a bung for the catalyzer temp sensor as well. Hopefully that may fix the problem? I've only had the car for about 2 months, and this is the first time I've driven long enough to see fuel consumption. So I don't know if it's had this problem previously, or something I've created once changing the fuel system. PS, I've also eliminated some of the items from the intake manifold. BCCD is unplugged, EGR removed, air regulator removed. I live in South Florida, and it never really gets too cold down here. I know most of these components are for cold starting and help out with cars in cooler climates.

Not yet. I will document it when I do it.

Oil change is definitely on the list. Did a compression test just to see if it was ok, all spark plugs removed, throttle open on a cold engine. The pcv valve was stuck. So I cleaned it out and put it back. I let the car idle a few minutes in the garage and it still smokes. I didn't see any oil coming from the muffler yet, so I don't know if the pcv was the problem and this is just residual oil burning off, or I didn't let it run long enough to activate the smoke screen, but I'll get to play with it a little more this weekend.

Thanks. Injectors are Ford 19lb/hr which I'm told is same as stockers. Price for the setup is $300. 6 injectors, fuel rail with brackets and fittings. However you'd have to send your manifold. He didn't make a jig.

Friday was the day my injector pigtails showed up, I crudely wired them up just to see if the car will start. And it did, so I called it quits for the night and got back to working on it Saturday morning. I took it for a short drive, fumigating the entire neighborhood at no charge. I got back home and decided to let it idle for a bit, maybe the crap will work its way out. It didn't get any better, lots of white smoke, followed shortly by what looked like diarrhea coming out of every hole in that 38 year old muffler. I thought for sure the head gasket was toast, and all the coolant was making its way out of the engine, but it smelled a lot like fuel. So I further investigated, and found the culprit...one injector that's stuck open and just pushes fuel out as fast as it can. It will do this until there's no more fuel pressure in the system. This is happening with the injector unplugged by the way. So now I wait for a replacement injector to arrive. On a positive note, the car did get to leave the garage for a few minutes

That looks sweet! By the way, are you running that heats hield? I put my manifold back together but left the heat shield off. Is the heat really bad with these engines?

Mine are exactly 55.6mm. I'm sure I can cut new threads in the tubes you have for sale, but at this point I'm better off just starting from scratch.