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studioti

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studioti last won the day on January 21 2016

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About studioti

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 06/26/1976

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    Orange County, California

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  1. @mtnickel Would like to purchase a set of these adapter plates, plus rental of the jig and PDF instructions to get perfectly centered. How do I go about paying you ? One more thing... you mention "flipping the cages" to make the z31t axles shorter....where can I find more info on that so when I rebuilt my axles...I can do that mod. Thanks James
  2. I have a 77 280z being built for weekend track use. If you have a bolt in rollbar that will fit this application, please PM me. Thanks
  3. Like the title says. I'm located in Southern California, but willing to pay for shipping. Thanks PM me.
  4. AGREED 100% I don't post much. I try to come here and learn. We've all made mistakes and we all grow from it and should share it. Bottom line...if I start to read a thread and then see "Tony D" posting on it, I tend to stop and move on. I don't care how much he knows or what road he's been down (and driven that). The minutes in my life are worth more than wasting time reading his diatribes.
  5. I need the little ring that bolts on at the front of the cam, that is eccentric and actuates the mechanical fuel pump. It's often called an eccentric or fuel pump cam. Thanks
  6. I have a 77. It's still on the car. I can take it off and sell it to your but don't know what shipping will be. I live in southern California. I will split shipping cost with you. I would like to get $40 for the louvers though
  7. I have what you need. Will give you all the hardline in engine bay that I removed just last weekend. $100 shipped to your door
  8. I am in Southern California and will pick it up. Thanks please PM
  9. I've been a secret fan of your cars. Your silver s30zt is gorgeous and the engine bay is very tidy, but not over the top. Great job. I noticed that you recently built a carb car and i also have seen your video. I am heavily leaning towards the 40s as well. Do you care to share some insights as what "not" to do? Thanks
  10. First I'd like to say that I'm set on going with the Webers, because I'm shallow and how my engine looks/sounds is just as important as how it drives. I'm sure there are 10 different ways to reach my goal for 10x less, but heck...these are my pennies I've been saving, I'd like to blow it how i want. haha Where my car is now: • Newly rebuilt L28 F54 flat tops • Stock Cam • New stage1 port/polish P90 head • High compression mod. shaved .080" w/ longer valves, etc (BTW, i bought my tower shims from DEREK. Great product, great price, great communication +1 for him) • Appr
  11. Thank you. This does make sense to me, since you explain it that way. But do you think 25psi at idle and 30-32 on throttle is low?
  12. Car: 77 280z stock EFI except for pallnet style fuel rail Status: is running and have run steadily for the 4 years i've owned it. Problem: it drives fine, but i finally installed a pallnet style fuel rail with gauge on it and the pressure reads 25psi at idle and rises to 32-34psi when throttle is applied. Also, if i remove the vacuum line to the FPR the pressure on the gauge goes up to 35PSI and stays there no matter idle or on throttle. Comments: to be honest, the car runs and feels fine. i've just never monitored the fuel pressure until i bought the new fuel rail. i guess ignorance cou
  13. I just have the stock bleeder nozzles. And everytime i bled the brakes i used the 2 person method. one to pump and the other to open and close the bleeder nozzle. as for the reservoir at the MC, i bought this bottle made to help with bleeding. its about a quart size and once you take the MC reservoir lid off you can plug this bottle upside down right in there and it will keep replenishing the fluid so that the reservoir never goes dry.
  14. I have a 280z with drums in the rear. I just want to share some info and hopefully this will save some other z owner from the grief i went through. In the process of rebuilding my engine, I took advantage of the empty engine bay to refresh the entire front rack and suspension. Doing so required me to disconnect my brake lines (obviously). When I put it all back together and bled the brakes, I couldn't get solid brake pedal pressure for the front. Here WERE my symptoms: • Brakes perfectly bled but pedal goes pretty much all the way down • No leakage anywhere! not calipers, n
  15. I am looking for the Brake switch that sits right underneath the master cylinder. Haynes manual calls it "Dual circuit pressure differential switch". basically it sends brake fluid to the wheel cylinders and detects if there is a too much difference in pressure. if there is...then a piston inside slides to one side and completes the circuit to the switch turning on a bright red brake light inside the dash. if you have this i'd like it only, no master cylinder needed. i'd also like a stock proportioning valve that goes on the fire wall as well. all of these parts are for a 77 280z
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