BobsZTwins

In looking at options to rebuild/replace my SBC I came across A. R. Racing - Performance on eBay. They offer what appear to be some nice long blocks. Here's a couple of examples: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33615&item=2481502942 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33615&item=2480815212 Has anyone here bought from them or know of anyone that has? I did a search on the forum but didn't get any hits. The buyer feedback on eBay has been very positive. Thanks!

Thanks for the feedback. I think I'm going to do a teardown on my current setup, take all the bits to a good local machine shop and either have mine rebuilt (if the block checks out OK) or start fresh. I've been pricing all the main bits from Summit, Jegs, PAW, etc. It looks like PAW has some good packages and pricing to start from. I haven't made up my mind whether to stick with the single turbo or go for a higher compression non-boosted setup. If the crank isn't up to snuff, I'll probably go with a stroker kit. Like the old adage says "there's no substitute for cubic inches."

The turbo'd 350 in my 74 is getting pretty tired (low compression on 2 cyl, puffs of blue on hot starts, way down on power) so I'm weighing whether to rebuild or replace with something different I found this 355 SBC on eBay and would really appreciate any opinions on value & potential HP: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2480295528 Thanks!![/url]

I have a Scarab conversion, done back about 1980 that, believe it or not, is still using the Hitachi LT150-10 37.5 amp unit! I'd like the upgrade to a 3 wire GM style unit but the JTR manual is a little short on info for the 260 wiring. I want the 3 wire for the voltage sensing and to power the charge light in the voltmeter (I swapped the ammeter out a while ago.) In the 260 there's the voltage regulator as shown in the JTR manual but there's also what the wiring diagrma calls a Shunt under that plus a box with 2 Fusible Links on the firewall. Can all that be eliminated with an internally regulated GM type alternator? The reason for the alternator change is I want to go with an elec fan like the Taurus 2-speed unit. Has anyone figured out the wiring/relays to use both speeds on those fans so you don't have to use manual switches? I did a search on the archives but the links in the posts don't work anymore, maybe a by-product of the site upgrade. Thanks for any advice!

Hanns, Thanks very much for the feedback, draining into the pan sound like the way to go. I'll have to go with a smaller diameter dampener because of the steering rack interference like most set-back setups. I'm just glad I don't have to rebalance the thing! Thanks again!

I'm still trying to work out everything to allow me to set my Turbocharged 350 (an original Scarab kit) back about 1.5" and down about 1/2" to the JTR level. One thing is still in the way. The turbocharger oil drain line feeds into the mechanical fuel pump base plate to the rear of the pump. Can anyone think of another place I can have the drain line feed into so I can eliminate the mechanical fuel pump and install a block off plate? I may be able to have a new drain line machined to feed into the block off plate at the very front but that may still limit my set back. Any suggestions? My other issue is with my 8" harmonic balancer. I'd like to replace it with a 6 1/2" but I've read differing views on wether you have to have the rotating assembly rebalanced as a set or not. I wouldn't think so, the stock ones go bad on occasion and I know people don't get the engine rebalanced every time! Is there a consensus on this out there? Thanks guys!

Those of you that have used JTR parts: Did you use the crossmember spacers that lower the crossmember by 1/2"? And did you drill the crossmember to compensate for the roll center? I'm doing a modified JTR position, trying to drop the engine about and inch and back about 1-1/2" (that's about as far as I can go) from the Scarab position (I have an original Scarab kit installed) but I'm stepping up to a T56 and doing everything else I can at the same time. Thanks!

Thanks for the feedback, that's what the shots in the JTR manual look like. I'm hoping I don't have to mod the crossmember much to get a good fit. I placed an order with DDPerformance today for the 440lb-ft T56, adapter plate, 27 spline yoke and mechanical speedo. Total came to $2224 with shipping. More than a bone yard but it's brand new and delivered to my door. Plus I can use my existing flywheel, clutch and master cylinder. It should be here in about 2 weeks, just enough time to finish my taxes!

Well, slight change in plans. After surveying with Stage 6 Motorsport the current installation and all the things that would have to be modified to accomodate the JTR postion: oval a new downpipe (not enough room with starter against firewall); relocate the wastegate and all its plumbing; replace the mechanical fuel pump with eletric (no room for the mechanical with the set back motor mounts); find a new place for the turbo oil drain (it feeds into the mechanical fuel pump base plate) etc., I've decided to do a modified set back of about 1.5 inches and lowering about the same so I don't have to change any of the above.... but still do the T56 which is the main thing anyway. One big question remaining: what have you guys used for a tranny mount and where do you bolt it to the body/chassis? In the JTR manual it looks like it's bolted to the floorboards. I've also seen some posts about the JTR mount needing lots of mods to fit. Comments? advice? Thanks!

Thanks for the feedback ! My 260 is an early (small bumper) car. Are you guys using the hydraulic TO bearing or the clutch fork setup? It looks like the hydraulic TO Bearing bellhousing is shorter than the clutch fork setup. If so, that'll influence where my shifter comes up. I don't want to have to cut a larger hole and possibly cut my console to get it to fit . Rusty, thanks for the JTR hood latch comments. I was wondering about interference with the distr but I guess the JTR mounts lower the engine just enough?

OK, I've decided to upgrade my 260Z 350 Scarab from the Super T10 to the T56 and slide the engine back to the JTR position while I'm at it. My block is a 69-80 4 bolt main with 64cc angle plug cast iron heads (short camel humps with accessory bolt holes.) I'm using cast iron exhaust manifolds as I'm running a single turbocharger. I'm planning on buying a T56 with adapter plate from DDPerformance that is supposed to allow bolt up to my old style SBC and retain the manual clutch setup. If anyone has used one of these (or similar from Borg-Warner, etc) I'd like to know: - if the shifter comes up thru the stock location or if a mod/custom hardware is req'd. - did you have to widen the tunnel to accept the T56 like some 240's? - what rear tranny mount did you use and where did you attach it to the unibody? For the JTR position hood latch, does the JTR book suggestion of cutting 3/4 coil from each end of the spring and using the 280ZX safety latch work OK? Or does someone have a better idea? I've already cut and bent the metal for the 2 pc bracket, I just need to drill holes. Finally, does the JTR position lower the engine any compared to the Scarab position? Thanks for any advice!

Dan, Thanks for the feedback. I looked over Airborn's website when I was investigating coating companies but I didn't know anyone that had used them. I think it's down to them or Swains in NY. One of the local turbo specialists has had success with Swains coatings on turbine housings and headers. I'm just concerned about internal coating flaking off and damaging the turbine.

Silicone boy, Did you coat your turbine housing inside and out? I'm a little leary about internal coating.....flaking off and going thru the turbine can't be good. I'm surprised a DIY coating held up that well.

Very clean looking conversion! Which Jet-Hot coating did you use, the 1300 or 2000? In searching the archives I've seen some posts complaining that the 1300 coating started flaking off after a short time. Thanks for the feedback!

I posed this question on the Exhaust forum with no response, so I thought I'd try here. I've got a 260 with a 350 and a single turbocharger mounted just above and right of the right valve cover. As you can imagine, it generates a lot of heat so I'd like to get the manifolds, crossover, turbo housing and downpipe coated to reduce heat and get rid of the surface rust and the header wrap I have now. I'd appreciate any recommendations, good and bad, for coating companies and types of coatings. I've been doing some reading so I'm at least familiar with Jet Hot but don't know anyone that's used it. Anyone using Jet Hot coating? I found a place called Swain Tech Coatings in NewYork that has a white pearl coating done in 3 layers that ends up .015 - .020" thick. They claim >50% radiant heat reduction. About the same price as Jet Hot. Anyone know anything about this company? Thanks!

I've got a SBC with a single turbocharger in a 260. I generates quite a bit of heat so I've been thinking about ceramic coating the exhaust manifolds, crossover and turbine housing. Anybody have any recommendations, good or bad? Thanks!

Regarding the LSR for a Z, there are of course different classes, Andy ran with a Z engine in F (123 to 183cu in) GCC (unblown gas competition coupe), not a built up V8. I've seen Z's running nitro do 200+ in the 1/4 but that would be a little different class! But you have to make a qualifying run in both directions so the car can't be a hand grenade.

If you want to see a Z that cuts the air about a good as any, check out Andy Flagg's land speed record Z. He went 163.495! Here's addresses to some pics: http://www.scta-bni.org/El_Mirage/ELM%2002/May/photos/pictures/cars/0220.JPG http://www.scta-bni.org/Bonneville/World%20Finals/World%20Finals%2003/photos_BT_17.htm And, yes, it's a 2+2. I think the longer wheelbase is more stable and has less turbulence at the tail. There's a nice article in the 11/02 (I think) Group Z newsletter about Andy and his land speed record attempts. This one managed "only" 150 mph. Maybe the G nose had something to do with Andy's success (duh): http://www.scta-bni.org/El_Mirage/ELM%2002/Oct/photos/cars/0742.JPG

I remember reading some test years ago where a big reduction in cd was achieved by adding headlight covers. The winningest road race Z's all ran headlight covers, must be something to it! Plus, it includes a reduction in radar profile!

It' been a fun car to own but like any conversion, it has it idiosyncrasies. I'm still adding things to improve it. Tomorrow it gets wiring to the electric choke and the Dodge Omni oil pressure/fuel pump switch recommended in the JTR manual. I had the Q-jet rebuilt a few months ago and have been struggling to get it set just right. There doesn't seem to be that many people around any more that really know those carbs. Next I'll be pulling the exhaust manifolds, crossover and turbo plumbing off to have them ceramic coated, just trying to figure out who has the best product to hold up under the heat that a trubo puts out. I've got a titanium tube with rod ends off of an F-117 that I'm trying to modify for an alternator mount, that should look trick! Friend of mine does maintenance on them and those pieces get tossed when they get to a certain wear level....way below automotive requirements! Cheers!

It depends on what engine and fuel system you're gonna run. I've got one of the original single-turbo carb'd setups. You can see a pic in my gallery.

I just got the linkage adjusted so my secondaries on the Q-jet kick-in properly with boost at 13# and had a religious experience. Wow! But.......next day went out to start the car and it took several minutes to catch and wouldn't run for s@#t. Blowing smoke, wouldn't idle at all, missed like crazy at all rpm. It's a 350 with a single Rajay turbo sucking fuel through a Q-jet carb. Stock GM HEI distributor/coil, MSD ignition with boost retard box. I pulled plugs, checked compression, no change from last time. It's getting fuel for sure. I pulled #1 wire off the distributor, stuck a screw in the connector and set it about a 1/2" from the terminal and cranked the engine. It arced a couple times, weakly it seemed to me, and no more spark! Let it sit for a minute, tried again, same thing. Any suggestions where/how to start checking the system? Thanks!

I had a stainless box built specifically for an Optima battery. It's sized to just fit under my strut brace. It's secured to the deck by a well nut and allen head bolt. There's a pic of the box in place in my gallery. I've got the drawing with dimensions that I gave to the fabricator if you need it. Cheers!

I bypassed the ignition and fuel pump relays on my 260Z by making a short (3") jumper that connects the incoming hot wire for the ignition relay and connecting it to the wire coming out of the fuel pump relay that goes directly to the fuel pump. The jumper consists of two flat type male connectors and a piece of wire. They just plug right into the wiring harness and replace the two relays. It helps to have a readable wiring diagram to figure out which wires to connect but could be done by trial and error. I did this because I couldn't get the relays to work with the V8 conversion. Good luck!

If you really want to do this right you need to get the calipers from an 88+ Toyota 4x4 pickup. They should be stamped with S12W not just S12 (the W is for "wide".) Rotors from a 1984 300ZX. It's the only 300 with 4 bolt hubs. the diameter needs to be cut down by 1/16" to clear the rotor. PowerStop makes some nice drilled ones. You need to have a 1/2" (240/260) or .315" (280) aluminum spacer made to fit between the hat and the rotor. Any good machine shop can handle that. Braided brake lines (front and back) will help eliminate the soft pedal you're feeling now. And you will definitely need an adjustable porportioning valve and adjust it full to the rear! Have fun!