BobsZTwins

Great write up, I've been exploring options to fuel my turbo'd 350 chevy with a PowerJection III EFI. I've been through 2 external pumps and giving up on that option. Can you find hose ends for braided lines that will fit the pump/basket fittings?

I've been running a 12si for years on my Chevy V8 260Z. But I started experiencing dead battery problems. Tracked it down to a bad parasitic draw from the alt. Took it to Oreillys for a check, came back with Lamp/Diode Trio FAILED. Took it home, cracked it open to verify, NO Diode Trio in this thing!? Only the Bridge Rectifier, brush holder and regulator. The bridge rectifier diodes all checked OK, the stator windings, OK, the rotor, OK. Anyone have any experience with a 12si like this?

I'd be interested to hear if you've had any issues with the WC install, I'm looking at replacing my 280ZX axles on my V8 260Z with that setup or the Driveshaft Shop setup.

I'm running Simmons 3pc rims shod with BFGs 225/50ZR16 front and 255/50ZR16 rear. Here's a catalog cut and on the car the centers are powder coated to match the car. Too bad they don't make these anymore, it was a company in Australia, the owner retired and shut down (what I heard anyway.)

When my wife and I married in 1982 my daily driver was a 240Z. I still have the car. When we were dating and I took an assignment in Saudi Arabia she let me store the car in her garage for 18 months. When I would have to work on the car she would come out with a bowl of ice cream and spoon feed me so I wouldn't have to stop and wash up! In 1999 when I found a Scarab on line that looked like my 240Z (white with blacked out bumpers and trim) on steroids (turbocharged V8 and wide body) she said "why don't you buy it!" I still have that one too! And she lets me keep both in the garage while her new Murano sits outside along with my S10, my son's 69 Skylark and 50 Ford sedan. Last year when the Scarab EFI went haywire just before the Hot Rod Power Tour she drove her Murano the entire distance from Jacksonville, FL, to Cocoa Beach to Detroit and back to Jacksonville so I could enjoy seeing and photographing all the cool cars! But she did get to drive on the track at Indy! My wife is the greatest! I'm taking her to Hawaii in two weeks for our 30th wedding anniversary!

One thing to consider for high speed fan control is wiring two 30A Bosch relays in parallel if you want to avoid the expense of 70A relays. MAD Electrics recommends this method. I've used it for about 3 years in the Florida heat, no problem. I'm in the process of rewiring to use two thermal switches so I can use both speeds. I'm going to try a 50A for the high and two 30A for the low and switching between speeds, we'll see if that holds up.

And the thread lives on! It would be nice if someone put together a FAQ on radiators that fit/work on S30's. Trying to find an aftermarket aluminum that fits between the frame rails can be a pain. Has anyone used this one from Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PLI-433918/

And the thread lives on! It would be nice if someone put together a FAQ on radiators that fit/work on S30's. Trying to find an aftermarket aluminum that fits between the frame rails can be a pain. Has anyone used this one from Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PLI-433918/

Updated Scarab conversion with Turbocharged 355 Chevy with Powerjection III, AlkyControl Meth Injection and J&S Electronics Safeguard timing control.

I would advise against installing in the passenger compartment. I mounted my 3 Qt tank in the stock battery location and relocated the battery to between the rear strut towers under the strut brace. I added a low level float and warning light on the dash. I fab'd an insulated barrier that drops the temp at the tank by about 100 degrees. I installed the pump under the tank in the wheel well and fab'd a cover out of sheet metal. It's a very compact install, short hose runs everywhere.

I have a 74 260Z Scarab Stage II conversion built from an original Scarab kit: Chevy 350 with single Rajay turbo drawing through a QJet carb, wide body kit, Recaros, Simmons 3 pc wheels, louvered hood. I've been modernizing it little by little without losing the period look: J&S electronics Safeguard in place of he MSD BTM manual unit; T56 in place of the T10, Methanol injection from AlkyControl to safely add boost. But I've always been unhappy with inconsistent performance: sometimes you hit the throttle and it goes like stink, the next time it bogs badly. Sometimes it's happy with 12 degrees intial timing, sometimes 10 or 14. Well, for my birthday this year my wife bought me a PowerJection III EFI system (God I love that woman.) If you're unfamiliar with this unit, it looks like a Holley 4150 but houses 4 injectors, ECU, TPS, IAC and MAP. If you were already running a Holley, just bolt it on, add an O2 sensor, water temp sensor, vacuum hook up and hi-pressure fuel pump and drive off! For me it was a little more complicated. Had to use a spread bore to square bore adaptor plate and have it machined down for hood clearance, had to have the fuel inlet line on the same side as the throttle linkage, the other side had the turbo plumbing, no room. Had to weld an extension onto the Z fuel pump bracket for the hi pressure unit. Tapped into the manifold under the adaptor plate to add a barb fitting for the PCV valve hose. Had to tap into the bottom of a brass tee to add a fourth access into the pressure side of the manifold for the MAP. Wiring was the easy part, just disconnected the 3 wires from the oil-pressure sending unit I was using for the fuel pump cut off and reconnected as appropriate to/from the EFI (it has fuel pump cut off built in.) I'm here to tell you this is an amazing piece of automotive engineering. The car is so much more driveable, has a much wider power band, when I romp on it it goes like hell every time. And as it tunes itself I'm able to increase boost, run more timing, fine tune the alky injection and I haven't had it on a dyno yet! I make tuning runs with my laptop connected as my son makes adjustments to increase learning speed and do data logging that we use to do additional tweaks after each run. This thing is awesome! If you've been debating pros and cons of carbs vs EFI you should consider this! Anyone else out there using a Powerjection unit?

Did you ever figure out what was making the clicking noise? I have a similar problem with my 74 260Z with stock rear suspension and brakes. The clicking has gotten worse over time, hate to just wait for something to fail to figure it out!

Skipzoomie, Thanks for the feedback! My old manifold is only 6 3/4". At 7 1/2" I think it will interfere with the steering shaft. That's the problem I have with the junkyard manifold I bought that has an O2 port, it's 7 1/2" too. Are you sure yours doesn't have the O2 port?

Deja, I've got a request in for a quote from Jerry's, thanks for the link! Paz8, This particular version isn't that common any more. I've tried all the local Pick-a-parts and a few others as well as local engine builders and the only ones I can find have the O2 sensor bung. They're about and inch and a half longer. My crossover pipe is SwainTech coated so I don't want to have to cut/flare it to fit. Plus, the longer length interferes with the steering rod so I'd have to have the mating surface machined at an angle to clear. I have found one source for new ones but they're $130 ! ! I can get a header cheaper than that!

While waiting to have the 4th cam installed (upgrading to full roller, tired of flat tappet cams failing break-in) I sent my left manifold to be recoated by Swain Tech due to spalling of the original coating. As luck would have it, they found a crack. If it weren't for bad luck.... Anyway, anyone out there have an old cast iron SBC manifold like the attached pic? It's an early 80's piece used on Caprice, Camaro, Monte, etc. I've checked out the local Pick-a-Parts, found similar but not quite the same. Tried eBay, no luck at all.

With the MSD mounted under the passenger seat I can't hear any noise unless I put my ear right next to the unit, then I can hear it hum. I had the unit mounted in far left end of the cowl vent area (the wiper motor is in the center of the area) but when it rained or I washed the car the area would get flooded. A couple times I lost ignition, tach went to 0, big backfire when it came back on! Didn't like that at all! No problems since moving to the underseat location.

If your tranny mount is to the dimensions in the JTR manual and you're mounting the engine as far back as possible, the tranny mount exhaust pipe humps are too wide to fit between the floor panels. The T56 mounting point is further back than most trannies. You'll need to do a lot of banging to widen the tunnel at that point. Or I can sell you the spare I had made. I'm running a turbocharged V8 and run a single 3.5" exhaust so I had to make a second mount with a wider hump on the right side. Cheers!

I mounted my MSD box under the passenger seat in my V8Z. Easier to change rev limiter than under the hood. Also less exposure to the elements! I mounted my HI-6 box on the passenger kick panel in my 240Z, same reasons!

I'm in Jacksonville but I have a carbureted, turbocharged 350 Chevy / T56.

You didn't mention what car this is on. Since you've got an Amp meter I'm guessing it's a 240 or 260 since the 280's got volt meters. Those are mainly 35 amp alternators with external regulators. Sounds like you may have damaged the regulator. With an electric fan and fuel pump you're probably stressing that poor thing out! I upgraded to an internally regulated unit on my 240 and a 100 amp GM unit on my V8 260. I replaced the Amp meters on both cars with Volt meters from 280s, much safer! Amp meters can be a fire hazard since the full load is running to and from the meter in the dash.

I'm running (bald) 255/50-16's on the back. Shopping around for new tires, having trouble finding matched sets since I run 245/45-16's on the front.