BobsZTwins

Hubert, Good to hear from you again! I got my T56 installed and running. I chopped the stock trans mounting "ears" out of the tunnel for access. I was able to leave the reinforcing band that runs over the whole tunnel. I am using the reverse lockout by wiring it to a Hurst shift handle with a momentary switch (button) which work great. I used the adaptor plate so I could continue to use the same bell housing and clutch setup. I had a local metal fab shop make a trans mount similar to the JTR piece but with my own dimensions. Cost $80. I bought my T56 from DD Performance for $2224 including yoke and shipping. Now I cruise at 80 mph at 1800 rpm running a 3.36 rearend. Cool!

Wayne, I bought 2 relay kits from MAD on their suggestion and run them in parallel to power the high speed on the Taurus fan. I also bought the Delco Alt kit and it worked perfectly. It came with all the wiring, wire ends, 2-wire plug for the Alt, diode and heat shrink tubing. I may rewire with a third relay to add a circuit for the low speed. The wiring is all copper with heavy heat and chemical resistant insulation. I don't think the stock Hitachi alt would like the added load of Taurus fan, I can feel a pretty good draw down on my 90AMP unit. I didn't realize how small the stock unit was until I read the spec.....something like 38AMP!!

Wayne, I've bought several kits from Mad Electric and found the bits to be 1st rate stuff, better quality than the local parts houses. The instructions are very clear and Mike is more than happy to talk to you if you have wiring problems.

I had the same problem on my Scarab bellhousing, the 240 slave would fit but had the bleed valve on the bottom. I found that NAPA part number 37495 did the trick. Fit perfectly and has the bleed valve on the top.

I haven't seen that stuff for sale anywhere. You know of a web site?

I've done a search on the forums but didn't come up with too much that will help my situation. I'm rebuilding my original Scarab Stage II Turbocharged 350 but replacing the Super T10 with a T56. Due to the location of the Deltagate wastegate, I can only set the engine back about 2" further than the original Scarab position. The wastegate is now about 3/4" from the firewall and leaves just enough room for the turbo downpipe to clear. This puts the T56 shifter "stub" at the front of the stock opening in my 260Z. I using the set-back plate and Hurst shifter that came off the T10 to put the shifter more toward the center of the opening but I need an inner boot to cover the T56 stub / Hurst shifter combo. Any suggestions other than the Pep Boys / Advance Auto boots? I've looked at the Hurst stuff but none of it is close to the 3.5" x 7" opening in the tunnel or will fit thru the 4" x 6.75" console opening. I'm sure I'll have to do some trimming of the console but I'd like to keep that to a minimum Thanks!

Cool! Easy is good! I must have missed that note in the JTR manual. Thanks!

I've test fit my turbocharged SBC using the JTR/Chevy Motor Mounts and got the interference between the lower rear corner of the mount and the steering rod cited by some members. I've read that most people simply cut off the guilty corner. Any need to weld a piece back on? No real loss of strength?

Evil, I just checked out your web page. Whoa, you're serious about a unique Z! How much more progress have you made? My 10 year old Mac couldn't load some of the pages. I don't know about you, but my "refresh" has taken about twice as long and about 50% more $ than I originally thought. It just seemed to take on a life of it's own!

Do you know what year/model Datsun the slave cylinder came off of? My local NAPA parts man helped me go through the catalogue and find a unit that looked right. I ordered it and found it was close enough. But he didn't have a cross reference to tell me what vehicle it was for. The NAPA part number is 37495 if anyone else out there is still using the Scarab bell housing. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I can pick up my engine & trans from the builder today. Last night they were machining the JTR engine mount spacers to fit my modified set-back plates and machining a spacer to fit between the alternator pulley and fan to get the alignment right with the crank pulley. Then the fun starts again. I'm sure I'm gonna be doin some fitment with a sledge and bottle jack! Glad I saved a little paint!

Hey Wayne, good to hear from you! Ever since "the list" went away, I don't seem to have time to browse through all the Z sites and forums. I got a 260Z cylinder from NAPA and seems the dimensions are the same, but of course it's for mounting on the right side of a bell housing, the Scarab's on the left. Did Datsun make any with clutch forks on the left side? I can't wait to finish this beast and get started on my other Z. I ground a lobe off my cam back in October in Gainesville, FL, and haven't had time to work on both at the same time. I plan to pull the engine, send the head to a machine shop and paint the engine bay, replace leaking seals/gaskets and replace the clutch disc....but that's it!!! This isn't going to grow into the 9 month Scarab rebuild! Two Z's is too much of a good thing?

Thanks for the feedback!

After 9 months of work, I'm th-i-i-i-s close to putting the rebuilt Stage II Turbocharged Scarab 350 back into my 260 (set back ala JTR, plus T56) but I'd like to replace/rebuild the clutch slave cylinder. The stock Z-car cylinder will fit but they're made to be mounted on the right side, not the left as on the Scarab bell housing, so the bleed valve would be on the bottom! So much for bleeding. Anyone know where the Scarab slave was sourced from? It's identical to the stock Z, just "left-handed." Anyone know anyone with an original Scarab or using a Scarab bell housing? Thanks for any help!

Have you tried surfing the web? I found that brakewarehouse.com had stock rotors for as little as $37.99 each up to drilled/slotted for over $200/pair.

I just got back from Advance Auto where I bought a Pioneer brand mount for $8 that looks a little more substantial than the Energy Suspension piece. The part number is 622288. The stud is a 7/16 - 14 that, after mounting in the crossmember, adding a lock and flat washer, is flush with the nut. Looks like it was made for it! If I don't like the Hurst T-handle, I may just mount a spare toggle swich on the console....just have to remember to turn it off! I got the reverse lock out and back up light pigtails from the Chevy dealer last week so as soon as I replace the rack bushings and steering coupler, I should be ready to refit everything. This has turned into about a 9 month project! Now I'm getting antsy to get it done!

Thanks Vella Rossa(?) Joe, that's sounds easier than the Chevy dealer where they want to know what year and model my Chevy is! When I tell them what it's for they usually say cool, wish I could help ya!

OK, I've got my SBC rebuilt, engine mounts fab'd, a T-56 from DD Performance, fabricated a rear tranny mount per JTR drawings, etc, etc, but I still need the piece that fits between the tail shaft and the JTR tranny mount. Anyone have a part number or year/model that works? And what have you guys done about the reverse lock-out switch? I bought a Hurst T-handle with a 12v switch but I don't know if I like the feel of it or not. I know some drag racers wire it to the brake light switch. That may be OK if you're only doing drags but if you like downshifting into turns, it could be problematic! Any suggestions? Thanks!

Brian, Thanks for the link! you're right, they do have some useful stuff there. I'm ordering the manual for sure. I can probably find all the bits and pieces I need locally and stick to the original wiring color code. It'll make it easier on the next mod! Hubert, Thanks again for the details on your success. I'll feel a lot more confident this weekend standing in the engine bay with wire cutters and soldering iron! Cheers!

Yea, I've read that site's info and it doesn't really work for the 260. Besides, I don't want all that extraneous wiring hanging out like the pics show. I really want to do it similar to the JTR recommendations for the 240 where all you have is the 12ga W-R wire to the Alt and the 12ga W wire to the Starter. Trouble is, there is no 12ga W wire coming thru the firewall in the 260, it's 18ga, which will not work as the battery recharge circuit. And it won't work to replace it with a 12ga as that circuit isn't big enough to handle it either. My guess is that both the Starter and Alt need to be connected to the 12ga W-R wire but I would like someone to confirm that that's correct before I start with the wire cutters!

You need the tach adapter part # 6000-8910. Go to Crane Cams website and at http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&lvl=5&prt=1984 for the details. Easy install.

I did a search looking for info on swapping a GM internal regulated Alternator into a 260Z and found this thread but no answers yet. Has anyone successfully done this? If so, can you please share your wisdom and experience? I really don't want to burn up starters, alternators or worse by trial and error! As others have stated, the JTR manual doesn't address the 260 even though they show a 260 with all the extraneous wiring removed! The big question is the 12ga white wire that JTR says comes thru the firewall (from the AMP meter) and goes to the starter, doesn't exist in the 260. There's only an 18ga wire that comes thru from the AMP meter. They apparently went with a smaller gage wire to the meter and added a shunt on the right wheel well that has the 12 gage wire but it only goes to the voltage regulator which I want to get rid of!! Any help would be appreciated!!

Hmmm, I'm using an older Mac and there is no right clicking. When I hold the mouse key down and the menu pops up, there's no choice for properties. The menu has Explorer Help, Open Image in New Window, Download Image to Disk, Copy Image and Reload Image. Any suggestions?

Tim, Thanks for the info. I guess it's time to get my coveralls back on and grab the air chisel! BTW, what did you do to get the pic to appear? Does a forum moderator have to review pics before posting or....? Thanks again!

I'm trying to post a photo of the trans tunnel to describe my problem. Sorry if it doesn't appear! As part of my 260Z Scarab rebuild, I'm upgrading from a T10 to a T56 mated to a turbocharged SBC. I've searched the site and read that the stock trans mount "ears" (#1 in pic) have to be removed. But do I have to remove the what's under the ears that wraps around the tunnel (#2) too? And do I need to reroute the fuel and brake lines at the upper right corner of the tunnel (#3)? Thanks for any feedback guys!

I just uploaded a pic of my Scarab motor mount and trans mount to my album. They're in a 74 260 with a Stage II Turbo'd 350 mated to a Super T10. The motor mount is pretty simple, basically a piece of 1/4" channel with holes drilled, used as a spacer between the Z's stock tower and stock Chevy motor mount.