BobsZTwins

After researching this for years I've come to the conclusion that the Scarab clutch fork was manufactured just for Scarab. The closest I've seen is the early Nove seen here side by side with the Scarab fork.

Update: Bored and Stroked to 393 with SCAT internals, Holley Sniper 650, Hyperspark Dizzy and now blow-thru instead of draw-thru

I have a 74 260Z Scarab conversion using the Scarab Bellhousing, clutch fork and TO bearing. The fork is showing a lot of wear so I'd like to replace it but haven't a clue where Scarab sourced these. Here's a picture of the Scarab fork on the left and a 64-67 Chevy II fork on the right, the closest thing I've found. Does anyone recognize the fork on the left and what car it might have been used in? I think we're talking about pre-1976 when Scarab began production in earnest but it's unclear if the Scarab Bellhousings were being cast that early so maybe into the later 70s?

My74 260Z Scarab. Had it since 2000. Bored and stroked to 393, still using the Rajay turbo but converted to Sniper blow thru from the QJet draw thru and added Meth Injection, swapped the T10 for a T56.

Recently finished swapping out the stock rear axles for new Futofab 108mm CV axles on my 74 260Z Scarab (393ci single turbo.) Had to clearance the lower control arms and the right side sway bar top washer a bit but other than that the install was pretty straightforward. I didn't clearance the left side quite enough the first time and chewed up the pigtails on the inboard safety wire. So had to drop the exhaust again and grind, file and sand more material. Took some real gyrations to do it without removing the CV axle which I really didn't want to do after torqueing all the bolts and learning how to safety wire on my back. I really didn't think the LCA would swing that far up under hard acceleration. Oops! Anyway here's a few pics.Test fit of the inner adaptor plate showed there was definitely some interference But the final install looks pretty good. Don't have to worry about twisting a 50 year old u-joint or snapping the stock axle in two anymore. Unlike some other posts on these axles, I have no issues with clunking (loose joints) or fitment.

Saw a couple of these at Amelia Island about 5 years ago, interesting cars!

Good luck. I have a friend that just found one that will probably take $20-$25k to get presentable, another $10k to get it concours ready. I haven't seen one for sale in the last 10 years except fully restored for $60k+

Original Scarabs will have an additional VIN plate stating it was built by Scarab and a vehicle number. There will also be a dash plaque on the right side stating in script "Custom Built by Scarab". And then there's the qtr panel emblems of the scarab bug in gold, Scarab on the fenders, some came with Scarab valve covers, some with Scarab in the seat backs. Also "SCARAB" cast into the bellhousing. All of these items EXCEPT the badging could be purchased from Scarab in a kit or piecemeal.

I ran a Holley with a regulator for a long time but got sick and tired of the noise! I switched to the Airtex E8016S and couldn't be happier. Have to listen close to even know that it's running. $28. I've got 3xDCOE40 Webers, it has no problem keeping them full at 3psi.

Yep, took it for a test drive down to the gas station to fill it up and check for leaks. All's good! The pump is SOOO much quieter than the external!

I just finished modifying my tank to accept an Airtex 99-02 F-body fuel pump module. Started with using my shop-vac to blow all the vapors out Then cut a hole in the top and welded on the VetteWorks retaining ring. Then did a test fit of the module in the tank and set the tank in place to locate where to cut the hole in the hatch floor. A friend donated a storage bin lid that I refinished to cover the hole. But I needed to build a base to accommodate the increased height of the tank + module + plumbing + wiring. Some 3/4" plywood, pieces of Home Depot paint stir stick and piece of aluminum angle did the trick. I think it turned out pretty good!

I looked on Rick's Tanks website, didn't see anything for S30s. Is that tank intended for some other vehicle?

Wow! That's a great looking tank. I just modified my stock tank, installing a Airtex 99-02 F-body fuel module. Cost me about $400: module, retaining ring, AN fittings.

Changed from the Carb'd-draw-thru-turbo that was originally a Scarab Stage III engine to a Blow-thru-EFI'd-turbo with Alky Injection. Much more drivable. Could never get the Scarab setup to run right.

Yes, it should work, Powerglide and Muncie 4 speed speedo outputs are the same with gears ranging from 17 to 25 teeth.

You're tackling floor pans and frame rails? Wow, you're adventurous! At some point I need to do the same, PO or inexperienced shop jacked the car up on the "frame rails" and bent them and the floor pans. But that's down the road sometime. Are you adding the Bad Dog reinforcing to the frame rails?

Jay, the adapter ring is stainless and the tank is mild steel. What did you weld with, TIG or MIG or...?

I found some pics of these units and there is a sock inside and outside. I found one post where the guy had to lengthen the unit to reach the bottom of the tank to access ALL the fuel. These are meant to sit hard on the bottom, hence the springloading. He took two boneyard units and cut the 3 legs out of one and extended the other with them using pipe unions. Looked pretty good. Are you using the internal fuel regulator or external on your fuel rail? To use the internal I see guys simply making a loop from inlet to outlet and adding a T to go to the front of the car. No need for a full return line that way, no fuel heating from the engine. Wish I could but I need to boost reference my regulator

Jay, Thanks for the link to the fittings! You say in your post that the pump sits about 1/2" from the bottom of the tank but with the sock it should be perfect. Isn't the sock inside the bucket? Is there also a sock outside the bucket? Also, are you going to run the stock pump or do the Racetronix upgrade. It's pump FPA-001B at racetronix.biz