Pyro

Yes, a complete disassemble and wash it down with soap and water would be a good idea.

You should really lower your expectations about 1000 rpm's. 7000 rpms is plenty for a L28. Get the power from more boost, not excessive rpms. 350 hp should be a fairly easy goal. A MSA stage 2 turbo cam should get you to 7000 rpm if you have a good aftermarket efi system with a good tune. A MSA turbo cam stage 1 is good for 6000 to 6500 rpm. I would assume a stage 2 would be good for another 500 rpms. Good luck with your engine.

Good results! A typical hp output with an extra good torque curve (maybe from the header and lighter flywheel). A bigger cam should really help out performance. What year 280zx engine is that? F54 with a P79 head (81 to 83) or N42 with a N47 head (79 to 80).

Yes, I think he should try it with the stock afm first before swaping parts. The stock AFM also works very well on two other NA turbo conversions that I'm involved with. I did however, find that a retro-fit turbo runs better on the NA AFM with a tighter flapper spring. 5 to 10 teeth tighter makes it spool quicker and pull harder.

I'm running ALL stock 76 efi and 12 to 14 psi of boost and a MSA stage 1 turbo cam. The engine pulls great to 6000 rpm and sometimes hits 6500 or 7000 rpm by accident in 1st and 2nd gear. No need for a turbo afm, the stock NA afm will work just fine. Just use the vacuum advance as normal. When the boost comes on, the vacuum advance will shut down all by itself. It needs vacuum to work and boost is anti-vacuum.

A flat tappet cam uses flat faced lifters (solid or hyd.). Sounds like you have a flat tappet cam alright. You DO NOT have little rollers on the lifters at the cam interface, right? There is a number of ways to see if the cam has been damaged. Sometimes you can see a bad lobe just pulling off the valve covers and watch for the short moving rocker arm with the engine running. You could also use a dial indicator and spin the engine over to measure lift. Nope, can't pull the lifter out without removing the intake.

Sounds just like a problem we had on a friend's Z. We replaced everything and it still over heated! Even bought a custom 4 row radiator, new water pump, and new fan clutch. Turned out to be a head gasket mis-match. If the head gasket doesn't match the block year, the engine will over heat. The coolent passages in the blocks are very different (n42 vs f45), but the cylinder heads have about all the same passages. You just changed the head gasket on your N42 block. What style head gasket did you use, N42 or F54?????

Are you using a flat tappet cam? If so, it is very very important to an oil additive during break-in and thereafter. Engine oil has been re-formulated over the past few years and is now low on some key additives that prevet flat tappet cam wear. Go to CompCams website and check in their tech section on cam break-in. The new oil explaination is in there. Use Diesel engine oil (Rotella) because it still has the right amount of additives. FYI, when a cam starts to go flat, the metal from the lobes and lifters chew up bearings in very short order. And, a new cam can go flat during the break-in period if the additive is not used.

For a pure drag car, I would go automatic, 3.90 or 4.11 gears, slicks with a welded up diff. Get rid of the efi and build a draw through system with a holley 750 with vacuum secondarys (3310). There is a small mod you need to make to the carb so it opens on boost. Install a N42 head to get the compression up to 8.3:1 and run 110 octane racing fuel. Install a t3/t04e and run 20 psi of boost. Install a brake line lock. Strip out any thing in the car that doesn't make it go faster. Go for a high 6's in the 1/8 at 110mph with a 1.5 second 60 footer. A friend of mine ran a system just like this on his old VW bug with a dual port 1600cc engine and ran 11.9's in the 1/4 mile. A z should do low 11's.

should work fine. I hope the kit includes locking out the advance in the distributor. 1975 to 1980 stock compression ratio of 8.3:1 cr used with the stock efi can handle about 24 degrees total with 8 psi of boost and 93 octane. Just set the timing to 24 initial timing and that is where is stays (no mechanical advance). Then use the vacuum advance for off boost throttle responce and better mpg. You can lower the compresson to stock turbo compresssion (7.4:1) if a P79 or P90 head is used on a 75 to 80 block (dished pistons). Also, the fmu needs to be set to about 60 psi of fuel pressure at 8 psi of boost with the stock NA injectors. I made my own turbo kit but I'm currently using 7.4:1 cr and 14 psi of boost. Runs good. I have it tuned now to get about 14 mpg during hard city driving. Tigthening up the afm spring 9 or 10 teeth really helped the turbo spool up quicker and just about doubled the mpg.

What is your fuel pressure at 10 psi of boost????

Bell Engineering FMU. It has an adjustable ratio. Use it after the stock fuel pressure regulator. There are two different Bell Engineering FMU's, one for boost and one for NA. Make sure to get the right one. You really need a fuel pressure gage in the car to tune the FMU. I use 55 to 60 psi of fuel pressure for 7 to 8 psi of boost, 70 to 75 psi for 9 to 10 psi of boost, 80 to 85 for 11 to 12 psi of boost, 90 to 95 for 13 to 14 psi of boost using stock NA injectors. The ratio you will need depends on the injector size. One msd 2225 will only manage about 70 psi during high flow. I use two MSD 2225 in parallel with one on a 6 psi pressure switch.

Yes, go for the bigger cam with more rpm to better match the higher rpm boosting turbo. You will also need stronger valve springs, thicker lashpads (0.160's), and retainers with deeper lash pad holes. The msa stage 1 cam revs up pretty good. I have hit 7000 rpm in 1st gear a few times but I tend to start shifting right after the tach swings pass 6000. I would not like a bigger cam than the stage 1 on the street. Low rpm torque from a 7.4:1 cr engine is poor even with a mild cam. I would hate to think how a stage 2 cam would feel with 7.4:1 cr. However with higher compression, a stage 2 or 3 might work out well.

I reduced the lenght of my timing slot in the distributor so the mechanical only advances 8 more degrees. I set the initial timing between 18 and 20 for a total of 26 to 28 degrees. 7 or 8 psi can handle 30 degree total timing with 93 octane and 7.4:1 cr. Use the vacuum advance because once the boost comes on it will shut off the advance from the vacuum real quickly. Plus the vacuum advance gives your car much better mpg and off boost throttle responce.

I have tried all three cams with a turbo. The stock turbo cam stops making power at 5000 rpm. It will pull to 5500 but the engine really starts to fall on it face after 5000rpm. I did try the stock turbo cam with the T3/T4 turbo and I didn't like it. Full boost didn't come in until 3500 with the bigger turbo and then the cam quit pulling hard at 5000. This made a very short power band. So I upgraded to a MSA stage 1 and it pulls hard to 6000 rpm and will make 6500 rpm if I push it. Much better match for the bigger turbo but has a lot of low rpm lag. I have never used the MSA stage 1 cam with a stock turbo. But i would think the stock turbo would be way out of the range with run high boost (over 12 psi) with a L28 at 6000 rpm. I used a N47 head with N42 block turbo (8.3:1 cr) with only 7 or 8 psi of boost. It was the first turbo engine I built so I kind of forgot how it did. But I do remember it pulling to at least 5500. Not sure if it was the extra duration from the NA cam or the added compression that gave it a few more rpms. But I would think 8 more degrees of intake duration would allow more rpm. Not sure about your turbo. But if it is like a stocker then use the NA cam. If it is a lot bigger than a stock turbo (longer spool) then use the MSA stage 1 cam.

I run 12 to 14 psi of boost with my NA efi and NA injectors using a FMU. Not the best way to do it but it gets the job done. 7 psi will need about 55 or 60 psi of fuel pressure with a decent flow rate when using the stock NA injectors. This is about the max for a stock efi pump. A walbro 255 pump should be able to manage more. Just a guess but maybe 70 psi with enough flow. FYI, 70 psi of fuel pressure is enough for 9 or 10 psi of boost with stock NA injectors. I use two msd 2225's in parallel feed with a Mallory Comp110 low pressure pump, and I have one of the msd's on a pressure switch to come on at 6 psi. Then run 95 psi of fuel pressure at 14 psi of boost. Runs good! I started with the 6 to 7 psi boost with fmu plan but that quickly changed to the 8 to 10 psi plan then to the 12 to 14 psi plan. so, I had to keep turning up the fuel pressure and increase pumping volume with more pumps. I should had just went with bigger injectors and aftermarket efi from the beginning. But I got it to work and I'm happy with the performance.

You really need a fuel pressure gage in your car to see what is going on. I have an electronic fuel pressure gage mounted on the A-pillar which really helps me tune my car since I adjust fuel deliverly on boost with a FMU. I use two efi pumps in parallel with one pump connected to a pressure switch which turns it on at 6 psi of boost. Really helps out with the pumping capacity during high pressure/high volume runs.

Stock turbo cam is a 240 intake/248 exhaust with 109 lobe centers Stock NA cam is 248 intake/248 exhaust with 109 lobe centers (8 degrees more intake than stock turbo) MSA stage 1 turbo cam is 260 intake/ 250 exhaust with 114 lobe centers (yes, more intake than exhaust) So, I would think the stock NA cam would work even better than the stock turbo cam since it is adding more intake duration while keeping the exhaust the same (like the MSA stage 1). Using this logic, the NA cam could be called a stage 0.5 turbo cam. The only issue would be a little more overlap with the stock NA cam that may create a little more of a peaky turbo engine (more torque but in a narrower rpm). Should work fine.

With a cam that big, you should run your efi in the "idle mode" at low rpms so it doesn't try to use manifold pressure as an efi parameter until the rpms come up a bit. However, not all efi systems have that capability. But, 10 inhg seems just a little low for a 280 duration cam. Try using 1000 rpms, 20 degrees of initial timing, and riching up the idle mixture. I think 11 or 12 should be obtainable.

Team G intake (single plane) will fit under a stock Z hood with a 1 inch N20 plate and a Holley. Team G intakes come in three different heights, you will need the shortest one. The short Team G with 1 inch spacer is the same height as a Performer RPM. I have used both intakes on my 71 240. Team G with NOS plate and Performer RPM with foggers in the intake (under carb). But, I'm using the complete JTR conversion which uses the 1/2 inch body lift on the front cross member.

I talked to a Melling Oil Pump tech guy about their datsun pumps a few years ago. He told me the turbo pumps use longer rotors than the NA pumps, therefore pump more volume per rev. And the turbo pumps were the same except the automatic pump has a lower pressure relief spring. Melling had a nice web site a few years ago with pump information listed. You might find more information there.

40 years of technology. Just like the old 427's had over the engines 40 years before it came out.

FYI, Don't ever install an oil pump without checking the lid to rotor clearance. The last three pumps that I installed didn't have enoung clearance. And the one pump that I didn't check, ate up the crank drive gear due to too much drag on the pump. It is easy to open up the clearance by lightly sanding down the tops of the rotors. You need 0.0015 to 0.0020" clearance between the lid and the rotors. I use the melling cast iron pump turbo pump and it works great. It has slightly longer rotors but I'm not sure if the housing is any longer since I used the same bolts to mount it on the engine. The oil weigh that you use should depend on the bearing clearances. Typically racing engines are set up with larger clearances and there tyipcally use thicker oil.

I run 2" from the turbo all the way to the IC and it seems to OK. I had about a 1 psi pressure drop after adding the pipe and the IC. The output diameter from a T04B compressor looks about 1.5". A stock T3 looks about 1.375". However, I did run 2.5" from the IC to the TB because 2.5" is about the size of the TB OD.

Cygnusx1 the two pump in parallel does add pressure because capacity is doubled. Believe me on this one, I tune my turbo car only with fuel pressure (lots of fuel pressure) and have a lot of experience with pumps. For example, pinch the return fuel line on a stock efi pump and it will make 80 or 90 psi. But under high flow it may only hold 55 or 60 psi. Now add another pump in parallel and the pressure can hold 70 or 75 psi during high flow conditions. So it does add pressure by increasing the volume at that certain pressure and therefore allowing more pressure. Of course the pressure can not go over the max the pump can produce. Yes, in series the pressure goes up like crasy (much higher than what one pump can make). Two stock pumps in series can make well over 100 psi! But if you drive the car everyday the feed pump will go bad in 5 or 6 months (if you use Z style pumps). I think the pump pulses beat each other up.???? But after both myself and my friends turbo Z killed 2 or 3 pumps in series. We now use efi pumps in parallel (as recommended by corky bell) and the pumps are much happy and haven't had a failure. I do however, feed my efi pumps (msd 2225's) with a low pressure mallory pump (comp110) which seems to not hurt the efi pumps. I have recently refined my pump system by using an oil pressure switch to power up my second efi pump after 6 psi of boost. I use stock NA injector and 95 psi of fuel pressure at 14 psi of boost.