Pyro

hmmmm..... That is strange. I throught the 6 cylinder T5 had first gear ratios around 3.30. A 2.75 is a good first gear to have. They also come in 2.95's. I need to look up those ratios again.

Will not sound very good. Not enough sound pulses in the pipes with only 3 cylinders. That is why a one cylinder lawn mower doesn't have good sounding exhaust. If duals can be run on a V8 then I'm sure they can be run on a inline 6. The rear suspension is the same with a V8 conversion or a stock liner, right?

Don't you need to use the 153 tooth flywheel and starter to clear the body of the Z? I use a flywheel and clutch set up for a 66 nova (10.5 inch with 153 tooth flywheel) with my T5. You need to go easy on that transmission since it is from a 6 cylinder car. Also, 1st gear is extra low in that trans and will almost be un-useable, unless you are teaching someone to drive a manual transmission. hahahaha

I have used a 700r with a 3000 stall and a T5 in the same car with the same engine. I wasn't impressed with the 700r. Never seemed to shift when I thought it should even with govern calibration. Plus an automatic Z with a high stall converter didn't feel right to me. I finally had enough when the neck of the torque converter broke off in the transmission. so, I installed a t5 and loved it. Those transmissions can handle a lot more power than you think. As long as the power is delivered without a shock (clutch drops or speed shifts) they will hold. WC or Non-WC doesn't matter, as long as it is a V8 transmission it will be OK. It has held up fine to my 450hp, 7000 rpm, 11:1 cr, 350, with a 3.90 gear. Even ran a 200hp shot of n20 with drag slicks at the track (650hp). Just don't power shift it. I shift it like a school bus, looks funny going down the track, looks like a dophin jumping in the waves. However, i can't say the same things about the stock diff and axles. Go T5 with a 3.90 gear. You will love it. On the street it takes off easily in 2nd gear and can skip 3rd gear and go directly to 4th. Almost like an automatic. FYI, clutch drops with street tires is ok. My car does it best burn outs in 2nd gear with radials. But avoid full thottle in 5th gear with n20 (don't ask, any one what to buy a 4 spd?)

No need to say sorry. I wasn't upset with your comments. I guess I should start uses those silly faces to help describe comments. Yes, a straight axle is the way to go. Now that I'm married with a 2 year old and another one due next month, I'm much more concerned about breaking stock datsun axles then when I was single. I would hate to make my wife into a single mother.

Never said putting the bumper on the ground was a good idea. Just said mustangs hook up very easily. Doesn't take much power to get a mustang into the 13's. Yes, they can be hard to manage once power levels increase. On the other hand, a Z and most other 2wd street cars have a hard time hooking up and typically deliver slow et versus mph.

Well those mustangs pull up the front tires up so easily they would almost be considered a drag car. hahahaha. Z's don't like to pull the front wheels off the ground. After tweeking my Z it ran 1.5 second 60 footers and still didn't pull the front tires off the ground. I have seen some VW's bug run 12's with less trap speed but that is because the engine were on the rev limiter and wouldn't trap any higher. I have also seen a few top fuel car run 12's at 60 mph after shutting down after 1 second. hahaha. So, I guess there are always exceptions to the rule. But a z needs extra work to get it to hook since it was made to be a road racer not a drag car.

A rear squat looks very similar to a front lift. However, front lift is what you want because all the wieght is moved on the rear springs. Rear springs that collapse can't hold the weight of the car and therefore don't tranfer the weight. The trick is to run strong rear springs and struts and soft front springs and struts. Not good for handling, but good for weight transfer. Also, pull off the front sway bar. Yes, 95 to 98 mph is not fast enough for a 12's. That speed indicates 15.0 to 14.4 et in a street car. A car setup for pure drag racer (high stall, high gears, slicks, posi, and heavily modified suspension) could manage a mid 13 with that mph, but not a street car. A stock 350z runs 14.0 at 100 mph, for an example of a street car that runs 100 mph trap speed. Years ago when I first took my V8 Z to the track it ran a 12.9 at 110 mph. Even ran a few 14.5's at 110 mph with a lot of wheel spin. Wheel spin slows the et but not the mph. Mph is Mph, and 98 mph indicates 220hp in a 3000 pound car.

use diesel engine oil with your new and stronger springs, as recommended by compcam.

if you are crossing the lights at 4500 rpms with a 3.36 you will now be crossing at 5223 with a 3.90. Sounds like you have some rpm room left over. 4500 rpm, 27 inch tire, 3.36, 1:1 top gear makes a 107.5 mph trap speed (in theory). 6000 rpms, 27 inch tire, 3.90, 1:1 top gear would make a 123.5 mph trap speed. My car traps at 135mph in 4th gear (1:1, T5, 26 inch tire) at 6800 rpms.

what tach are you using? doesn't sound right.

A r200 rear end should be ok if you use skinny street tires. those 70's caddy engines had a bunch of compression ratio. You may find it tough to stop detonation. A cam with a little more duration will make it less prone to detonate. what trans and gear are you planning on using?

what in the initial timing and total timing? throttle is open all the way when your foot is on the floor? do you know for sure the secondarys are openning? A stock hei should pull easily to 6000 rpm.

t04b-50 trim compressor with a T3 turbine seems to be the right size for a L28. for quicker spool leave the turbine stock. For slower spool up but better top end power open up the turbine. I would use the stock T3 turbine with the stock cam since the stock cam doesn't rev that high. If you change cams then modify the turbine.

If you are only building a 300hp street engine then I would use a stock T3 turbine with a TO4B 50 trim compressor. Will need a turbo spacer. Then use a stock turbo block and head and stock compression ratio (this will make your life much easier). A lot of pit falls when building a stroker plus cost go up dramatically and so does the compression ratio which makes it more difficult to turbo charge safely. Install a bar & plate intercooler, external waste-gate, megasquirt with ignition control, 2.5 inch down pipe, and 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust with a 2.5 inch dynomax super turbo muffler. The above combo will be fairly easy to build, will make great low rpm torque, and about 300hp at the rear wheels. Not the fastest turbo z ever built but a very fun car to drive on the street! Lots of tire smoke. Should be able to run a high 12 second 1/4 mile. If you plan on using the stock cam then the stock T3 turbine works well. The stock cam and stock turbine have the same power band (a good match). Using the stock turbo cam with a high flowing turbine makes the useable power range very small. A NA cam will give a turbo engine another 500 rpms of useable power due to 8 more degrees of intake duration. A clutch upgrade will also be required.

20 initial. 36 total mechanical. Plus 15 from the vacuum advance at light engine loads (high vacuum).

Here is a little 350 chevy mpg story. Recently helped a friend to a V8 conversion in his 77 280. He brought a complete engine with a new 670 holley carb, performer intake, and we installed a mild flat tappet cam (210/216, 114 lsa), and some old style 64cc double hump heads that had been slightly modified (2.02/1.60 and ported to 165cc runners). Exhaust system is block huggers headers with two 2.5 pipes into one 3" with a dynomax super turbo. Compression came out to be 9.5:1. We also installed a TH350 trans with a 2200 stall and a 2.87 LSD dana 36 vette diff. He was getting 8 mpg in the city and 12 on the highway. We tune the hell out of the carb and nothing helped. Leaner jets or richer jets, bigger power valves or smaller, heavier or lighter secondary springs didn't seem to effect mpg. We also made sure the ignition timing was setup right (15 initial, 38 total mechanical, and another 12 from the vacuum advance for light load (high vacuum). Plugs looked good and the engine ran fine but mpg sucked. Switched to a Q-jet and now he gets 12 city and 18 highway. That is a 50% increase with no other changes. And the power is the same. And his city driving is fairly spirited and highway mpg is at 80 mph with ac on. Q-jets rock! Ugly as hell but engineering art work.

So, I guess that is a stock T3 turbine. Send your turbo to a turbo shop and have them open up the turbine a little. This will make more hp due to a better flowing exhaust and slow down the boost a little. I'm running a T04B-H3 with a stage 3 turbine. Makes 5 or 6 psi at 3000rpm and full boost (14psi) at 3500. No surge and the H3 is a bigger compressor than the V. Works well with MSA stage 1 turbo cam which pulls to 6500 rpms. If you want to keep the stock cam then use the stock turbine and change the compressor to a T04E 50 trim.

What turbine are you using?

Yes, ATF in either non-wc or wc. And there is no strength difference between the two versions. As long as it is a V8 model it is good. I ran a bunch of 1/4 miles with my non-wc trans. The trick is to shift it slow and easy. Ran 6.9 at 110mph (1/8 miles) with it using slicks and n20!

Sure the cylinder head flow should be considered in any cam selection. Along with vehicle weight, gear, exhaust flow, engine size, compression, ect. But, I talking in "general". Turbo cams typically have shorter exhaust durations than intake duration which is opposite of a super charger cam. I'm not making it up. He is a little copy and paste from racer brown on turbo cams. Remember: A turbocharger works best as a function of the temperature and velocity of the exhaust gases, and the volume of exhaust gases is secondary. This strongly suggests late exhaust valve opening and early exhaust valve closing so that exhaust gases, in their purest form, can work on the turbo impeller, which is directly connected by the same shaft to the compressor impeller. This doesn't indicate that a turbocharged engine won't function with stock camshafts or those with a relatively long effective exhaust valve durations. It will. But longer exhaust valve durations have drastic effects on the average exhaust gas velocity and temperature. In addition, longer valve overlap periods permit fuel from the pressurised induction system to be pumped out the still-open exhaust valve, lowering exhaust gas temperature and density even further. This is the primary reason why most stock-but-turbocharged engines feel like you've stepped on a wet sponge at low engine speeds; they're just plain soggy until there is enough of a blast of exhaust gases to wake up the turbo impeller which, in turn, wakes up the compressor impeller.

Turbos like less exhaust duration to keep the exhaust flow at high velocity. This helps spool up the turbo. N20 and blower cams are about the same (more exhaust duration). This helps get rid of the extra fuel and air beening burnt. In all three cases, turbo, supercharger, and N20, less over lap is a good thing. So when longer than stock durations are used, wider lobe separations angles are required. In your case, a cam with a 109 intake center angle and a 119 exhaust center angle (LCA) has a 114 lobe seperation angle (LSA), (109 + 119)/2=114 . Which is about right. No over lap at 0.050" with a 222 intake/234 exhaust duration cam

I use a 200cc dart iron eagle on my Z. They flow very well on the exhaust side. Their intake flow isn't the best but isn't the worst either. I'm sure a little intake bowl smoothing would bring them up into the AFR head range. My engine makes around 435hp with a compcam 292H using those heads (120mph in the 1/4 mile with a curb weight of 2700 pounds). And that is out of the box, I haven't done any bowl work on those heads. And it made 625hp with a 200hp shot of n20 (135mph trap speed).

That's right. The doc has a good point. Screw in studs would be a good idea. And check retainer to oil seal clearance. And yes. you should consider a set new of dart iron eagles or sportsman II's.

For drag racing only. Then get MT drag slicks. But you will need to get some 15 x 8 rims. I bought a set of centerlines for my V-8 Z. They measure 15x8 with a 2 inch offset (5.0 inch back space). This pushes the tire way under the fender so a set of 26x8's will fit without rubbing. However, if you are using the stock springs in the rear then you will need to move the perches up 2.5 inches as described in the JTR V8 coversion manual for tire clearance. Drag slicks last a long time at the track. I got about 50 runs out of my set and that included a good burn out with a brake line lock before each run. Drag radials don't like burn outs with a line lock. I burnt a new set of drag radials down in one burn out!!!