Pyro

Oh. I see. I'm not sure how accurate the torque specs are for clutches, but SPEC seems to be about the highest. I would also upgrade to a 240mm (I forgot to mention that).

SPEC stage 2 or 3. Stage 2 is much easier to drive on the street as compared to the stage 3 which chatters on slow take offs. Stage 2 is a kevlar disk, rated at 450 lb-lbs, and requires a few hundred mile break in. Stage 3 is a ceramic disk and is rated over 500 ft lbs. The clutches are at NipponPower.com.

The stock cam quits making power after 5500 rpm anyways. You also need to make a cam change to get useable in the upper rpms.

Raise compression with a 350 crank and a new set of flat tops. A 350 will make more power than a 327 built with the same components.

Well I did some web seaches and came up with the following answers. 1) When talking about GM t5's it is very important to distigust between the V6 trans and V8 trans. V8 has the higher spline count and hold more torque. 2) WC cane out in 1988. And I didn't find any difference in torwue capacity between the two styles 3) all T5's use ATF (WC or NWC) Check out the sites below and information below. http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oftrn.htm There are two distinct GM T-5 trannys - one used behind low output 6's and the other used behind 8's. The one for a 6 is rated @ 240 ft-lb and the 8 @ 300 ft-lbs. of torque. Identifiable difference is the input shaft, 14 splines on 6 cyl. version, 28 splines on 8 cyl. 1988 and newer Camaro 5-speeds are called "World Class" T-5's w/ improved bearings, paper cone syncros, and use Dextron 2 ATF. The Camaro bellhousing includes a hydraulic thowout which makes it very simple to hook up, but the b/h also tilts the tranny at an angle of about 10 degrees. This can be a benefit or a curse depending on the application. http://garage-scene.home.att.net/t5_install.htm ll GM T5s (1983-1992), except T body (Chevette), have a standard GM bellhousing bolt pattern. All Ford T5s have a bellhousing bolt pattern that looks similar to that of a Top Loader, though it is different. All 1983-1992 GM V8 T5s have a 26-spline ´ 11/8-inch input shaft, a 2.95:1 first gear ratio, and a standard GM bellhousing bolt pattern. All Ford T5s have a 10-spline ´ 11/16-inch input shaft. GM V6 and 4-cylinder T5s have a 14-spline ´ 1-inch input shaft, either a 3.50:1, 3.76:1, or 4.03:1 first gear ratio, and a standard GM bellhousing bolt pattern. Avoid these transmissions for V8 applications; they are weaker than the V8 transmissions. There is no 10.5-inch clutch disc available for this transmission, only a 95/8- and an 11-inch disc. Beginning in 1993, there was no T5 available with the GM V8. All fourth generation F body T5s have a Ford T5 bellhousing bolt pattern (Figure 22-3). The 26-spline ´ 11/8-inch input shaft is similar to the earlier V8 input shaft, but the pilot is longer than that used in the earlier models (Figure 22-4). The front bearing retainer is the same as used on the 1983-1992 GM T5. All GM T5s manufactured from 1983-1987 were of the Non-World Class design. From 1988-1992, all GM F body V6 and V8 T5s were of the World Class design, but T5s designed for the other GM vehicles, such as the S10 truck, were still of the Non-World Class design. http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=13309 Question: Hey hey. My new shifter is coming in today. I know the fluid is low in my t5 as it had been leaking from the speedo gear. I fixed that but i need to fill it. I thought when i have the shifter off would be a very good time to do this. I know some of the later t5's take ATF but have never been able to get an answer on when this started. Does my 83 take gear oil or ATF ? Reply: Regular T-5 = gear oil World Class T-5 = ATF Reply: Intresting Fox. Because my 1983 Ford Shop supliment (which overviews the rebuild procedures for 2.3EFI Turbo and T-5's) states that it uses 2.4Liters of Dexron II fluid which is an ATF. I have always heard that ANY T5 requires the use of ATF. Seeing as my shop manual was written to specificaly cover the T5 (which was new for 1983) i would tend to belive it.

There are T-5's made for 6 cylinders and 8 cylinders. The ones made for the V8's are rated at 300 ftlbs and the one made for the 6's are rated for about 250 ftlbs. The 6 cylinder T5's uses the course input spline and the V8 T5 uses the fine splined input shaft. I forgot the spline count but it is something like 13 for the low torque T5 and 28 for the high torque T5. World class and non-world class is just a matter of which year it was built. The world class uses a different style syncro and there is no difference in the torque holding strength between the two transmission. If fact, a T5 performance trans builder told me that he felt the NWC T5 was a little stronger. I forgot the year gm switched over to the WC t5 but it is around 1990. I have used both and can't tell them apart. And I have used ATF in both transmissions. The trick to making a T5 live behind big power is to not shock the transmission with clutch dumps, power shifts, and avoid full power 5th gear runs. My T5 equiped V8 Z ran 11.7's at 120mph AND 10.7's at 135mph with a 175hp shot of N20 using MT drag slicks. The car also runs 1.5 second 0-60ft and 6.9 second 1/8 miles at 110 mph. The above times were done using very slow stifts (like a school bus driver). And I use a brake line lock to hold the car still at the starting line while I take up slack in the drive line by letting out the clutch slightly before dumping the clutch at 5000 rpms. I know I said no clutch dumping but taking the slack out first really helps reduce the shock load.

Stroke and bore the L28 out to 3.0 or 3.1 liters Add more compression (10.0:1 to 11.0:1 cr) Install a much bigger cam (290 degrees) Do some mild head port and bowl work The intake runners can be opened up a little on the ends (as far as your porting tool can reach) An aftermarket efi would work the best. I would spend the extra time and money and get an efi with ignition timing control. Stock turbo injectors with a little more fuel pressure should get you to 250 hp. To maximize performance, install a stronger clutch (240mm) and a LSD diff to apply the extra power to the pavement. The stock efi can give enough fuel even with the stock non-turbo injectors if more fuel pressure is used, so more fuel is no problem. The problem with the stock efi is the lack of programmability and air flow restriction from the small intake ports. Good luck with your sleeper.

All oil pumps must be checked before installing. And that includes new pumps, especially new pumps. Of the last 4 new pumps that I installed on my engines, all four were out of spec. Not enough clearance between the lid and the gears. The one that I didn't check, ate up the oil drive gear on the oil pump shaft and crank on my Z.

Looks like modified, cheap set of block hugger headers. The guy should had at least used a good set of headers to begin with. Hooker block huggers use 3/8" flanges. Those look like 1/4" thick flanges.

A friend of mine runs a P79 with turbo pistons and a stock T3 at 15 psi for a few years now on his daily driver (his only car). He hasn't had any liner issues. I have seen flow data showing the liners actually help flow.

I'm too busy right now for car clubs because of work, cars, and new baby.

northwest, near I10 and Loop 1604

I assume you are talking about the idle mixture. A bigger cam like the one you have will need a richer mixture to idle. And the engine will need more initial timing, something like 15 to 18 degrees. Adjust the fuel mixture at idle so that the high idle rpm (highest vacuum) is obtained. Too lean a mixture with that cam will make a misfire. You could lower the needle position slightly.

Engine design has improved over the past 30 years. Better head design and better electronics to control fuel and ignition curves. Fast burn cylinder heads don't require as much timing to begin with so more cylinder pressure can be used. Plus the new cams are designed to be used with high compression and low octane. New engine cams most likely have very wide lobe seperation to reduce overlap and a late closing intake valve to reduce cylinder pressure. A low amount of valve overlap makes a smooth idle and low emissions. Z cam are designed to work with 9:1 cr and are made to generally increase cylinder pressure (early closing intake valve) So you could could get the results that you want with a 11:1cr Z engine using a cam with wide lobe centers and a very late intake valve closing point and then use a high tech efi system. I'm sure there are many more reasons but these are some of the biggies.

Here is a cool write-up on intercoolers. http://www.are.com.au/techtalk/intecoolersMR.htm The article says, "yes" an intercooler can be too big.

For the same money and work you could drop in a late model 5.3 liter LS1. Those engines go for about 1800.00 with transmission and don't need to be rebuilt. The trick is to get a new engine/trans combo (2003 and newer) so no money is spent on the rebuild. A 5.3 liter GM truck engine makes 250 hp and 300 ftlb at the wheels in stock form. Mild mods get them to 300 hp and more extensive mods, over 350hp. The 5.7's are better but will cost at least twice as much.

Bad turbo maybe??? A T3 should spool up quickly in this application.

I ran 14 psi of boost without a BOV of any kind for a few years without any problems. I recently installed a Turbo XS BOV (bosch style) and recirculated it. I think it does helps keep the boost up between shifts. Not a major difference but noticable. Plus I feel better about not beating up my turbo anymore.

A friend on mine ran a setup like that on his 60 VW bug. He ran 15 psi with a 10:1 cr air cooled engine and used 114 octane racing fuel. Ran great at the track! 11's with a 1700 cc engine. He even used a 750 holley on that little engine! I'm sure a water cooled engine with racing fuel could run 20 psi of boost with that setup. The fuel passing through the turbo acts as an intercooler.

A Bell Engineering FMU will work with your setup. It goes in the return line after the stock regulator. It is adjustable to any boost:fuel pressure ratio you need. (1:1, 2:1, 3:1, 4:1,......) The stock regulator handles all the off boost pressures then the FMU ups the fuel pressure during boost. 7 psi of boost with stock injectors should need about 50 psi of fuel pressure. I found the boost comes on stronger and quicker if the afm spring is tightened up 5 to 10 teeth. A 1:1 regulator works great with an aftermarket efi system. The fuel enrichment can be made with the computer. The FMU can enrich the mixture by turning up the pressure since the stock computer is not programmable. If you add more boost then you will need two fuel pumps in parallel to make up to 75 psi which is good from around 10 psi with stock injectors. With out 7 psi of boost your engine should be able to handle 30 degrees of total ignition timing which is about 12 degrees initial timing with 18 degrees in the distributor. However, if you turn the boost up, then the timing should be lowered. Turbo engines like a lot of initial timing due to the low compression. So it is a good idea to limit the amount of advance and run 20 degrees of inital timing. I reduced the slot lenght in my distributors mechanical advance with a small weld. So now it has 8 to 10 degree advance with 17 initial timing and 14 psi of boost. Or you can just lock out the distributor advance and set it to 24 or 25 degrees when you set up to 12 psi of boost.

Measure the valve lift on a good lobe. Should give you a good idea which msa cam it is. Or measure the smallest distance accross one lobe then subtract it from the biggest distance accross the lobe (at the peak). The difference is the lift at the lobe. Then mulitply by 1.5 to get the lift at the valve. Do you have a digital caliper?

I wouldn't use another msa cam. That CWC core is prone to go flat. Get your factory cam reground to the spec you want. 280/280 with 0.480" lift or 290/290 with 0.495" lift and get the stock rockers resurfaced. Plus the msa cam kit is very expensive (450.00), doing it with crane springs/retainers, regrind cam and rockers, and courtesy nissan lashpads will be about 250.00. Even if the stock springs stacked at one inch lift it wouldn't help you. You need stiffer springs. Summit racing sells crane springs and retainers for 110.00. Plus the retainers give the springs room for another 0.100" of lift and the lash pad hole is deeper for the use of thicker lashpads. A regrind 280 degree cam will need about 0.190" to 0.200" thick lash pads and a 290 cam will need about 0.200" to 0.210" thick lash pads. But you need to check the wipe pattern on each lobe.

Yes, with carbs. go to a bigger cam, at least a 280 degree cam. The stock efi doesn't do so well when the cam gets over 270 degrees. That is why I only use a 260 degree. Years ago, I ran a 290/0.500" cam with SU's on a L28 in a 240. That car was very quick and easy to drive on the street.

When I was running a stock T3, it would be at 5 psi at 2300 rpms and 10 to 12 psi at 2800 rpm. But it didn't start to pull until 3000 rpms anyways. So lower spool rpms doesn't didn't mean less lag for my car. So, it had boost but didn't start to go move like a turbo cr until 3000 rpm. I recently got my bigger turbo to start spooling to 3 or 4 psi at 2800 rpm and 8 to 9 psi at 3000 rpm (up from 5 psi at 3000 rpm) by leaning out the mixture with 28 degrees of timing (no boost retard). The lag is now a little more than stock but that could also be caused by the stage 1 turbo cam.

CWC marking is a new core and is not as good as the factory metal. I have a CWC and it is trying to do the same thing on one lobe. And I checked each wipe pattern and used the proper thichness lash pad. And I used the proper springs and retainers. And I broke in the cam corectly. I only used the new CWC core because it was for a turbo engine and I needed the extra lobe seperation than is only possible with a blank core. I think the best and cheapest way to do a cam swap is to have a factory cam reground (this is what I did on my NA L28). Go to the junk yard and pull a stock cam and rockers. Then have Delta Cams regrind the cam to whatever specs you what and resurface the stock nissan rockers for 100.00. And Courtesy Nissan sells thicher lash pads for 3.00/each. Summit racing sells L28 crane springs and retainers for 110.00. I perfer to run my lashpads just a little thicker to move the wipe pattern more to the valve side of the rocker pad in order to reduce the valve train noise. Reduces the slop at the valve/lash pad interface. A 260/260 cam with 0.440" makes a nice improvement over a stock cam. Pulls hard to 5500 rpms and will make "useable" power to 6000 in first and second gear (with the proper springs). The stock cam seems to die somewhere between 4500 and 5000 rpms. Also, the 260/260 will not affect vacuum accessories too much (vents and brakes). There will be a slightly lopey idle with a 260/260 cam and power will be better than stock from 2500 rpms and up. Good for stock gearing, stock compression, stock exhaust, and a good daily driver cam with good mpg. I like it.