thezguy

So it does come with model specific Ebrake cables?

It doesn't fit under the XXR 15" wheels. Is anyone running the stage 4 without a spacer?

I wish I could fit a 15" rim over these damn brakes without a spacer! 16" drag wheels are a joke

I got the go pro ready

Let me know when your ready to put that car to the test and I'll oblige.

Correct. It is about 1" shallower than the LS1. The front of the pan is a little deeper though.

Yes it works. You have to jack the motor up to take it on and off though. The LS1 oil pan will come in and out in the car without doing anything to the motor

Yeah I'm asking for trouble but I dont have the heart to swap the manual for a timeslip, it's to much fun to drive the way it is. The driveshaft is a balanced steel unit. I'm sure it will go next. However I don't plan on fixing it untill it's broken.

The car weights 2960 without the driver. The 145mph trap was on 14/15lbs of boost (roughly 700hp range.) The car is capable of much more, it is only now in the 1000HP range. I'm hoping to get it on the dyno before TX2K15.. There are A LOT of 1200+ HP cars to compete against.

You should be. Getting it wrong means immediate failure! Ask me how I know. I have a lot of respect for anyone running sub 10's I don't think a lot of people understand what it takes to crack into the mid 10's/9's much less 8's. I was one of those guys just a few months ago. Hell my car was making 700ish with a 2.0 60' and I made a 10.9 pass on IRS/6speed. Granted I didn't really build my car to run the qtr mile it is quickly becoming an interest of mine. I say let the info flow we could all benefit from it.

So for what it's worth I ended up using the ARP 100-7709 which is the closest length to stock. I bought some 1.50 lug nuts and I'm in business! Ah failures.. Yes I know them well. From the wheel inwards I have 39spline CF stubs/CF 6 bolt adapters/Z32 6 bolt CV/MM axle/Z32 6 bolt CV/Z32 inner stub axle. With this HP and a manual trans I'm asking for trouble. I suppose the next weak link is the inners but we will see what happens. I have adapted the way I launch the car so Im hoping for the best. My goal for the car is a 9 sec pass. With the ability to trap 145mph with a 2.0 60ft that shouldn't be to hard without stressing the car with massive launch. This video was when I broke the 27spline stock stubs lol! I have since learned to pre load the drivetrain to take the stress out of the driveline.

The original question was not a size question it was wether or not ARP made a direct replacement. In the middle of the topic I asked another question. The F body will not work as they are to long. The closest sized ARP stud to our factory units are the 100-7709 if I decide to go that route I will be using these.

Great info there. I'm debating on making the ARP switch and that would get me what I needed!

Yes I read quite a few but I did not see any that provided the specific awnser a I was looking for ie. Taper/lead pitch. I guess I should have been more specific than "size of hole" I was able to run home at lunch and take proper measurements though.

Maybe if you learned how to read properly you would have realized Im not asking for the size/length of the wheel stud rather the bore diameter in which it sits. That thread is completely useless to me. In the future please refrain from arrogant useless comments in my threads. By the way Incase anyone else is Interested the factory bore size on the hub for a factory wheel studs .490 it then tappers down to .470 where the Knurles actually sit.

The grade of the stud is 10.9 which is pretty stout. I was just seeing if there was anything stronger out there. On a side note. Does anyone know the diameter of the hole that the studs fit into? I will be modifying some 5 lug hubs to 4 lug today and need the hole diameter.

Just being proactive i suppose. The car is making close to 1000WHP on 4 lugs

Does anyone know if ARP makes a factory length wheel stud for the 280? Im looking to upgrade my wheel studs but need factory length and thread pitch. I can't seem to find anything besides local auto parts store brands

I've already got a buyer for it. If it falls through I'll shoot you a PM

This is all good info. However I think I'm going to scrap the T56 and just go with an auto.. It will cost me little to nothing to get into a built trans and my rear end is built up good enough as is that white a good auto I don't have to worry about breaking stuff.

I think you are right mike.

Unless you have both inner and outer 6 bolt chromoly stub axles and are prepared to take a massive loss than you don't want me to make an offer I too am going with the 8.8. The amount of power I'm attempting to put down and the manner in which im trying to do it exceeds what any aftermarket Nissan part was designed to do.

Incase anyone is interested. A full set of 300M axles for this setup is at the most $1800 that's not terrible when you consider ever moving piece from the diff to the hub to be basically indestructible.

Will, When you get a chance can you call or PM me? I'd like to see what your lead time is on parts and have a few quick questions for you. Thanks!

Here is the magic question. Is a 1.250 4340 "chromoly" stub axle stronger or weaker than a stock 1.413 F-150 CV axle? Does anyone have any clue what the ford stuff is made out of and if upgraded replacement parts can be had?