ecp48

1" front sway bar is common for both, that's why no common. Only the rear seems to change. I have seen heavier on the front for the 28O though. Hope it helps. Ed

Hey Guys, I just got through with this. The instuctions are from hunger. First the the old bushings must be completely removed, including shell for the front arm and the outside (spindle pin end) of the rear arms. The bushing slides into the housing on the arms without a shell. I have not done the mustache bar, but I have been told that you need the shell on that one, so burn out the old rubber. The inside of the rear arms just slide onto the existing hub (along with a sleeve, using the existing large bolt and washer to hold them on. Rear of the differential side of the arm uses one small bushing and one large bushing (I don't remember the numbers), front uses two of the smaller bushings (smaller, meaning length, both front and rear use the same diameter bushing). I have not installed the transmission mounts yet, so no comment. Hope this helps, if you need the numbers to match it up let me know and I'll try to see them on the car. I had a long discussion with Customer Service about correcting the instructions two months ago. Also, check that you have all of the correct busings. I had an extra small bushing for the inside of the rear arms and was short a longer one. They sent me out one asap, after my call to customer service, no questions asked. Good product and people, but the instructions need help. ecp48

The springs will physically fit, but due to the heavier weight of the 280Z, the rates will be higher. The compressed heighth of both springs (280/240) are the same, at least the ones in my garage are. the difference in height is elsewhere in the strut. Likewise, the rear bar. Everyone I have seen on the web and old catalogs lists at most a 3/4 bar for the rear of a 240 (some used a 5/8). The 7/8 is only shown for the 280, again more weight and a higher center of gravity, due to the higher ride height. You would probably end up with a very rough riding and tail happy (oversteering/loose) car. Incidentally, I have a set of "yellow" lowering springs for a 240, which I am going to use on my stripped down '78 280. I don't know the brand. If you want to swap, we could work that out. I don't need the bar, I have both a 3/4 and a 7/8 so that I can tune the handling in. Ed Palmer

Ed, I couldn't tell you if that is correct or not, but the calipers shown on the list were the 280ZX calipers (early and late), not the maxima. the only maxima component is the bracket. Plus, I understand that the later ZX calipers were lighter and had a bigger pad. Ed

Thanks Joe. After a very loose search (many pages), I found the following info. Here is the rest of the Port list, note that Port C is Ross C's converstion so no need to print that. Small Rear Disk Brake Conversion 280ZX 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port D Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1982-83 Nissan 280ZX rear caliper and hangers 1982-83 Nissan 280ZX rear rotor 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1980-84 Nissan 810 Nissan Maxima Sedan rear brackets that have the floating dust shield No E-Brake extension available after market but they can easily be fabricated. Rear axle must be removed to install the hub brackets. Bone Stock Small Rear Disk Conversion Maxima 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port E Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1979-81 Nissan 280ZX rear brake calipers and hangers 1979-81 Nissan 280ZX rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1980-84 Nissan 810 Maxima Sedan rear brackets that have the screwed-on dust shield E-brake extension is available after market and they can easily be fabricated. Rear axle must be removed to install the hub brackets. One add on, if you use the S13WB caliper with it's stock pads you will need to remove the outboard pads wear sensor with a grinder. You can use the S12W pads without modifiying them as they are the exact same pads except for the outboard pad wear sensor. Enjoy! Mike Thank you Mike.

Help, Is anyone aware of the use of a "early" Maxima (what years?)rear caliper bracket being used to mount ZX calipers (what years) and rotor on the rear of the early Z. I am looking at a set but the seller does not seem to have complete information on the interchange. Any help would be appreciated.

Not hard. You need the spacer (JSK/Juan) if you are going to maintain the cold start valve. You need to change the cable connections on the throttle body to an arm with the ball linkage, like is the original for the 280Z. Look closely at some of the TBs advertised on ebay and you will get a good idea of the changes. As to improvement, unless you open up your intake starting with a low restriction filter and improve your exhaust, I doubt if there would be any significant improvement. All changes must be looked at as a total effort with regard to flow in and out of the engine. Think of it as a pump. Whatever you improve to allow more flow in has to be balance by the improvement in flow out. One must balance the other and the stock '78 280Z tail pipe to manifold header on my car is much more restrictive than the '75 or earlier Zs. Then again, the Weber Bigthroat was advertised for years as improving the L28 all by itself. Good luck.

The 240SX throttle body is good for any "modified" L28. It allows a less restricted flow, whether Turbo or naturally aspirated. You won't see much of an improvement, unless you combine it with a K&N style airfilter and header with low restriction exhaust at a minimum. The throttle body is just a part of the intake side restriction on the fuel injected L28s. You still have the to deal with the AFM as well. I'm working on one now with a shaved p-79 head, Cam, dual exhaust with header, and a 280ZXT AFM. Ed

Thanks, Thanks for the responses. ED

Thanks, the various pics are very helpful. cep48

Hey guys, Did anyone make a copy of the pictures and text? on this site? Famousexhaust.com links no longer work. thanks, ecp48

Anyone know how much more the turbo injectors flow than the stock 280 N/A? Possibly the larger injectors would give enough without going to the adjustable Fuel Regulator. Or would they be overkill? I know on 5.0 Mustangs, they don't recommend stepping up the injectors untill the engine is severely modified, unlike what I am planning. ecp48

Daw How do you recommend the fuel supply be enrichened? Adjustable regulator or fudging the temperature sensor? I'm in the midst of building the "new" engine. Low mileage N54 shortblock with a N42 head, three angle seats blending/pocket porting and manifold matching with 240sx TB, cold air, header with duals and a "Mitchamore" cam, Part Number 918-268 Intake Exhaust Duration @ .050 .222 .222 Valve Lift .430 .430 Hot Valve Lash .010 .010 The enrichening component, while considered has been put off, but now that you mention it, any input would be appreciated. ecp48

Guy by the name of Harry Gershenson (sp) had a twin turbo 77 or 78 Z in the early 80s. I watched it run at the Bay Bottom Crawl, a high speed auto cross in the Keys in 1980. He owned the "Z Shop", Miami, Florida. Not sure what the horsepower was, but it screamed. He also ran SCCA B Production/GT2 with a NA Z and had an L6 powered tube frame 240SX running in GT2 as well. ecp48

Thanks Chase, I have replaced the throttle body (240SX), Air Filter (Hi Flo K&N) and cleaned up the head. Also used a Monza Header with duals. the AFM was a real question in mind, as a restriction. I'll track down a Turbo AFM to complete it. Ed Palmer

Is there any benefit (increased flow) to using a 280ZX Turbo Air flow Meter on a naturally aspirated 280Z ('78)? Also, does the ZX turbo injectors have a higher flow rate and if so how much? ecp48

I'm displaying my age, but there was a company/group who made a kit for installation of the Ford small block in the Z. Well engineered kit. It was written up in Car & Driver, I think. Anyone remember, who was the manufacturer? ecp48