ecp48

Choppy or not, during the Z's racing "hay day" the majority ran twice pipes. Check out the photos and you will see two pipes exiting dead center in the rear panel. The Bimmers run the twice pipes on race cars today.

There have been several threads on this. However the general consensus is that they are too loud. However, that said, I am planning on doing it using an MSA 6-2-1 header without the collector and an old NOS twice pipe from a defunct dealer, 1 3/4" mandrell bent tubing with long glass packs. The tubes will hook directly to the header with a 2" to 1 3/4" reducer. I plan on adding a crossover shortly after the header in the hope of reducing the harsh resonance/rough sound. Also check the current threads on classic Z Car Club below: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14391&highlight=pipes http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14327&highlight=pipes

Jason, Be real careful with the port and polish. You have a stainless steel liner in the exhaust port. All you can do is "rip it out" and you end up with a ragged opening in stead of a port. Do some mild work blending the bowls and clean up any rough edges in the combustion chamber and thats all! ecp48

Jason. The N47 has the tin liner for the exhaust port, as does the P79. If you read the posts on this site and the Internet Z Club, you will note that there are a number pumping up the P79. In stock form, it is reportedly as good as the P90 Turbo Head. The problem is you can't modify the exhaust ports on these two heads. What you've got from the factory is it! The P90 has the same improved (better, increased squish, should provide less detonation) combustion chamber as the P79 with the ports of the E88 or N42. I personally went through this evaluation. I have a P79, (2) N42s and a P90. The P90 is presently being pocket ported in my spare time (no rush). I will also match the ports to my headers and intake (MSA 6-3-2 header (thick flange) and 1975 non-egr fuel injected intake) and shave the head .080 for appx 9.8:1 compression. Of the heads you have, I would personally prefer the E88 because of the ports (personal phobia against the "tin" in the exhaust ports). If it is an early E88, with the squish area below the indent, then I would have the seats opened for the 280 size valves and hardened valve seats installed. If it is the later head (73 240 or 260), you may have larger exhaust valves(260 only), but not the hardened seats (no lead fuel) and the small intakes. The exhaust should have/need new hardened seats and the intakes should have new seats or the seats cut for the larger intake valve and the larger valves installed. If you are not going to do anything to improve the head (dollars$$$$) stick with the N47, it already has the large valves, just install the flat top pistons from a late 81-83 280ZX motor for appx 9.8:1. Everything is money!! For better results use a P79, shave it .080 and shim the cam towers a like amount. Use the valves from your N47 head .080 longer (make up the difference of the shims under the cam tower. Install your flat top pistons and with a cam etc., have the potential for 170 RWHP. This HP is what the site(s) seem to suggest. One of the folks on this site dynoed 164 RWHP with a basically stock motor and a P90 head @.080 with a header. Good luck.

Jason. The N47 has the tin liner for the exhaust port, as does the P79. If you read the posts on this site and the Internet Z Club, you will note that there are a number pumping up the P79. In stock form, it is reportedly as good as the P90 Turbo Head. The problem is you can't modify the exhaust on these two heads. What you've got from the factory is it! The P90 has the same improved combustion chamber as the P79 with the ports of the E88 or N42. I personally went through this, I have a P79, (2) N42s and a P90. the P90 is presently being pocket ported in my spare time (no rush). I will also match the ports to my headers and intake MSA 6-3-2 header (thick flange) and 1975 non-egr fuel injected intake. Of the heads you have, I would prefer the E88 due to the ports (personal phobia against the "tin" in the exhaust ports). If it is an early E88, with the squish area below the indent, then I would have the seats opened for the 280 size valves and hardened valve seats installed. If it is the later head (260), you have larger exhaust valves, but not the hardened seats (no lead fuel) and the small intakes. The the exhaust should have new hardened seats and the intakes should have new seats or the seats cut for the larger intake valve and the larger valves installed. If you are not going to do anything to improve the head (dollars$$$$) stick with the N47, it already has the large valves, just install the flat top pistons from a late 81-83 280ZX motor for appx 9.8:1. Everything is money!! For better results use a P79, shave it .080 and shim the cam towers a like amount. Use the valves from your N47 head .080 longer (make up the difference of the shims under the cam tower. Install your flat top pistons and with a cam etc. have the potential for 170 RWHP. Hp is what the sites seem to suggest. One of the folks on this site dynoed 164 with a basically stock motor and a P90 head @.080. Good luck. ecp48

Jason, There is a program called the Nissan L6 Engine calculator. It was put together by the guys at the Sydney Z Car Club. The link below should take you to it. It has been posted on this site several time as well. The program is downloadable. It allows you to input your parameters such as your head choice and gives you what you are looking for., even data on your proposed destroke 2.8. If you can't find it email me and I will send it to you. e88 : 9.80:1 n47 : 9.82:1 ecp48 http://HTTP://infovfj.ozemail.com.au/zcar.html

Doug, Why did you run the brake line through the drivers compartment? Wouldn't it have been safer to just extend the valve stem (handle) into the driver's compartment. Where did you find the adapters, ie: metric brakeline to the proportioning valve? Thanks, ecp48/Ed

Doug, The thread issue is a good one. Helicoils will strengthen the attachment. As to the number of shims. I don't see that two shims at .040 each (total .080) is going to be less of a problem than 5 at .015 (total .075), the correction is near the same, as is the number of threads of the bolts not engaged in the heads. The requirement of this modification is to make up the amount cut on the face of the head at the came towers with the shims and the cut for a 10.0:1 compression is .080. If there is a reason not to stack, please let me know, as I am close to doing just that. Thanks, Ed Palmer/ecp48

Car Quest auto parts used to list them, but I have had no luck in finding them personally. I would check any "older" auto parts distributor in your area. They might have some sitting on the shelf and not reflected on the computer. Also, keep an eye on ebay. I got five sets of fifteen thousands with some head gaskets early in the spring. Good luck. By the way, I thought you were going to use the the cam adjustment, chain guide from something else and a shortened link. Why the change to the shims? ecp48

Just stumbled on the following interchange data on ebay. someone was selling new rear rotors and gave the complete interchange as follows: Part: 083-2047 Catalog Name: BECK/ARNLEY Part Type Name: BRAKE DISCS/ROTORS Total Number of Vehicles: 21 NISSAN/DATSUN (21) 200SX (10) 1988 2.0L 1974cc L4 F/I CA20E 1987 2.0L 1974cc L4 F/I CA20E 1986 1.8L 1809cc L4 F/I Turbo CA18ET 1986 2.0L 1974cc L4 F/I CA20E 1985 1.8L 1809cc L4 F/I Turbo CA18ET 1985 2.0L 1974cc L4 F/I CA20E 1984 2.0L 1974cc L4 F/I CA20E 1984 1.8L 1809cc L4 F/I Turbo CA18ET 1983 2.2L 2187cc L4 F/I Z22E 1982 2.2L 2187cc L4 F/I Z22E 280ZX (4) 1983 2.8L 2753cc L6 F/I L28E 1983 2.8L 2753cc L6 F/I Turbo L28ET 1982 2.8L 2753cc L6 F/I L28E 1982 2.8L 2753cc L6 F/I Turbo L28ET 810 MAXIMA (1) 1981 2.8L 2793cc L6 Diesel LD28 MAXIMA (6) 1984 2.4L 2393cc L6 F/I L24E 1984 2.8L 2793cc L6 Diesel LD28 1983 2.8L 2793cc L6 Diesel LD28 1983 2.4L 2393cc L6 F/I L24E 1982 2.4L 2393cc L6 F/I L24E 1982 2.8L 2793cc L6 Diesel LD28 This may help someone down the road.

The short answer is No. I don't have the LFL/UFL handy for either gasoline or propane, but if you look at the potential for release (and resultant explosion or flammability), the evaporative condenser is in front of the radiator. In searching for a replacement unit (used) for my Volvo, it seems that almost all of the cars I found had been hit in the front or front quarter and all of them had lost system integrity (refrigeration) in the crash. None of the preceeding appeared to have lost system integrity with regard to the fuel system. Since the Pinto/Vega/Toyota cases of the seventies and early 80s the fuel system is better protected/packaged with regard to crash protection. This is not true of the Refrigeration systems. Further, I believe you will find that the the LFL (lower flammability limit) is lower for the propane (I haven't checked it). Normally when the fuel system explodes, rather than burns, it is because of a spark in the confined space of the tank, the liquid gas just burns. In the case of the propane, it is a pressurized gas/liquid in the system, any breach will result in a volatile and potentially explosive event. If there are any chemists on the site, they could give you a better educated response. Ed Palmer/ecp48

Pure propane gas in a refrigeration system is a prescription for an potential explosion in the event of an auto accident involving the condenser. There is a big difference between "propane based" and a blend containing propane. If you look at the drop in substitutes for R-12, (EPA Approved) Frig C (FR-12) or Autofrost, etc., all of them contain Propane in a mixture below the explosion limit. The idea is to blend the propane with inert items which diminish the explosion potential and not diminish the cooling potential. Check the following link if you are interested in R-416a or Frig C. http://www.refrigerantsinc.com/fr-12.htm IMHO the risk to family, friends and myself is to high for me to use pure propane in my Z and I work with Industrial Refrigeration/compliance on a daily basis. The cost of the substitutes, while higher than R-12 used to be are still doable. Dan has the right perspective, as usual. Ed Palmer/ecp48

Anyone have any idea how much heat is transferred into the caliper brackets? I would like to paint the Maxima Brackets (presently a nice shade of rust), which I am installing on my 280Z this weekend. Do I need a High Temp Paint or can I use Rustoleum? For that matter will high temp aluminum paint hold up on the calipers? ecp48 1978 280Z Running 1976 280Z Garage Queen 1974 260Z Parts & Ferrous Oxide

ON3GO I thought it had to be somethiing like that, or my 78 280 was hauling a large invisible brick that slowed me down and allowed the hondas to run faster. Seriously, I remembered my old '75 with an 82 ZX drivetrain as considerably quicker than the present stock (waiting for energy to conduct the transfusion) '78. Of course, part of that could be, things were always faster back then!! (The 75 has been gone since a crew cab duelly shortened it in April 1985) Thanks for the info. ED/ecp48 Athens, GA

John, Not disagreeing with your analysis, but weight reduction in the moving components is a necessity in producing maximum HP. This is because weight has to be moved and the more weight, the more Horse power it takes to move the mass. While mass is not measured on an engine dyno, heavier moving components, flywheel, crank, rods and pistons cost horsepower and will to some extent lower ultimate RPMs, because it takes power to generate those RPMs. However, I don't think the HP in this case will be significant, just driveablity. Ed

bastaad525, Short answer, YES. It takes HP to move/offset weight and the increased flywheel weight will cost some power. It will be interesting to see how much after you dyno it. Please post. Ed/ecp48

Sure it will cost you a "little" HP. I can't give you a number. It takes horsepower to overcome inertia and weight. If you are racing, it is a big deal, as evey little bit helps, but for a street driven turbo, it should be smoother as you won't have as big an RPM drop between shifts. I will be installing one of the Maxima Flywheels on my NA 280Z, which will make it a little sharper (quicker reving). I and every other Formula V racer ran a lightened fly wheel. Low HP engine (race trim 59 to 62 HP), everything was fractional HP gains and ability to rev freely. But again, if maximum HP is your thing, you wil lose a small amount. ecp48

Just a comment. I work with pressure piping and other safety issues with regard to Process Safety. I would not use a welder who couldn't show me a current welding certificate for the type of welding being performed. Roll Bars/cages and suspension components are to intrinsic to our safety. No one on this site drives the cars just for looks. Therefore when you are pushing close to 10/10ths you need all the safety you can build in, whether that is Club Hot Lapping, Autocross or SCCA. Ther are a lot of very good welders out there, who have never achieved/attained a certificate. But to my mind it is not worth the risk in this area. I'll get off the sermon now! ecp48.

Hey guys, While not a chevy or Z, I used them on the top and middle rings of my Formula V, as did/do?? a lot of V Racers. When you are talking about incremental horsepower increases (a National Formula V produces appx. 62 HP on the dyno), every little bit helps. When you're playing around with 355-360 Cu. Inches, you won't notice the difference as easily. As to whether the price is worth it in a chevy, that's a personal call, particularly when most of your increases come in large numbers, not a fraction of a Horsepower. I can say that they were the difference between holding a draft on a National (pro built engine) car on the back straight at Moroso/Palm Beach International Raceway (PBIR) and having them walk away from my home built engine. ecp48 Athens, GA

Try some of the mustang sites. If the "T-45" is anything special, someone must have tried to hook it to a 5.0 in a 93 or older Mustang and the info will be posted. ecp48

I don't know what a T-45 is, but a mustang belhousing will allow you to connect a T-5 to your engine. The same bell housing can also be used for the other Mustang alternative transmissions. You would need to use the throwout bearing slave combination whcih fits inside your bellhousing, as the Mustang used a cable. Alternatively, some Ford F-100s with the 5.0 used a stick bellhousing, which had a boss for the external slave cylinder. You would need to check an interchange book or go to the bone yards. ecp48

Rufe, I usually, can't say always , use the back button. as soon as I have left the initial openeing page, whether a forum article I'm linking too or going from the main page to PM or anything else, the history goes away. Generally, I try to satisfy the past links before anything else to avoid this. Today was brain fade, wanted to see the update to a thread. Ed

Mike, Can we put a filter or timer on this function. If I go to my PM box and go back to the forum it shows me leaving and returning and wipes the slatte on the previous 24 hours posts. We need some kind of a delay, so that the posts are only wiped after 30 minutes or an hour. Today I'm not sure what happened. I clicked the wrong link on a message notice and immediately hit stop on my browser, when I then clicked on the appropriate link and it showed two visits. It's a nice feature if it can be made to work. thanks, Ed/ecp48

Hey folks, Received the header yesterday 4/14/04. The following was the message that preceded it: "shipped via 2-day fed-ex tracking number 841834338037 i thought it had been shipped by UPS ground a long time ago but was never picked up and sat in the shipping department. im sorry for the inconvenience and i hope you put the header to good use." Moral of the story, "communicate". Alls well that ends well!! thanks for the assistance, ecp48

Pete, Either caliper works. That wasn't the question, though. I had somehow gotten the the impression that the 300Zx four bolt Rotor would work with the 240SX calipers on the Maxima brackets. However, according to an email from Ross Corrigan, you need the aftermarket brackets to use the larger rotor, other wise you must use the ZX or maxima rotor. Thanks, ecp48