ecp48

Thanks Guys, Its been an entertaining thread. Ross's coil over package is nice, but overkill for a basic street car, that I want a little better handling out of. The 510 type slotting is a good approach, but after installing the lowered springs and noting the relation of the pickups. I may want to modify a second set of trailing arms to raise the pickup point. I'll try to review some old magazines I have hanging around and see if I can find anything as to how much the pickup point was raised. Changing the direction a bit, has anyone tried raising the front inner arm pivot point, ala JTR for the Z. I've done that on my 280Z. thanks,

Jon, Got the Z! Three of them. I was just given a nice clean 280ZX, which will make a great grocery getter and daily driver, with a little massaging of the suspension. That leaves my 78 280 available for the planned LS1. I really want to clean up the suspension, just a bit for better handling. Less squat, lower springs and maybe some heavy sway bars. Thanks guys,

Check Zcar.com. The classifieds, parts, suspension has had some complete sets of coilovers posted for about a week. Rears: http://www.zcar.com/classifieds/index.php?method=showdetails&list=advertisement&rollid=26247&fromfromlist=classifiedscategory&fromfrommethod=showhtmllist&fromfromid=33& Set Front & Rear with Illumina's: http://www.zcar.com/classifieds/index.php?method=showdetails&list=advertisement&rollid=26094&fromfromlist=classifiedscategory&fromfrommethod=showhtmllist&fromfromid=33&

I'm probably dating myself, but I can remember someone coming out with a fix to reduce squat in the 280ZX rear. It seems like one of the Z vendors had a relocated or revised pivot point for the rear trailing arm they were selling. There was an article in Car & Driver or one of the other sporty car magazines at the time. I think, maybe in 1980 or 81. Anyone remember this? Thanks in advance.

Only the early motors were bad. The blocks were so light, that they had to reinforce the whole bottom end to race it. I wanted to run one in Improved touring in a Capri Body and the Guys at SVO, this was in 85, flat talked me out of it. If you remember it was shortly after this that the Nascar Busch series ran v-6s and the 3.8 was the motor. The later motor, used in the supercharged T-birds 89- ? Were a tough piece of equipment. That said, I wouldn't put it in a Z. To many cheap small blocks around Ford or Chevy.

Kevin, Any Z or ZX 5 Speed will fit your vehicle, without changes. Too bad you aren't closer to Athens, GA, I could help you out. ecp48

Dale, I do like the way those mounts have the engine in the bay. May have to change my mind on the compressor placement.

80LT1, Check out the following link for the adapters AN-6 to Tuned Port. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33553&item=7984215049&rd=1 Hope this helps'

They appear to be coming out of the woodwork. I just picked up a '78 280Z, has not been registered for (4) four years. Slight rust in rear floor pans, leak under each quarter window, appx. 1/4" hole each side and a rust spot on the left rar quarter. Guy advertized on Classic Z. Then kept posting a countdown to the junk yard. I offered $200 (double what the junkyard would pay) and towed it home. It will make a perfect streat beater/daily driver and allow me to go wild with the previous 78 280. Interior was weaker than yours, engine was said to smoke a little, probably valve seals. (but I have an 81 ZX Shortblock and N42 head combo to go in) Black seats with red velour inserts. Judging from the receipts, another case of a rookie who liked the car, but really couldn't work with it. $600.00 or so in "dealer receipts. This is the third car I've bought in the last two years. All had hefty receipt packs with them. The first two had factory rebuilt engines (Lazer___??) at less than 100,000 miles. I can't figure that. My previous 280, a 75 (owned from 1979 until totalled in 1985) was torn down at 100,000 miles. I was curious, autocrossing and familiar with American V-8s which needed reworking at that point. Bottom line, everything was still in spec, no discernable wear at 100,000. Why were the others rebuilt? No real indication from the receipts. What can you do, but enjoy!

I just bought the Aeromotive AEI-13109 from Summit 134.95. (2)-6 inlets (plugged one) and one -6 outlet. On ebay there have been several an-6 to Chevy fuel rail adapters offered. They don't state what the chevy rail thread is, but do state that it is -6 out. Search on ebay using AN. Hope this helps.

Relays and overall electrical system is different. Hard parts are the same, I've noted nothing changed. The Electrical system is closer to a ZX.

Hey guys, I bought the first set to come up for bid. Will fit the N42 and earlier heads or the shaved P90 with Shims (.080). Nicely tapered under the head. I compared against stock replacement valves @ 10 - 12 dollars a piece on Victoria British and went for them. They do require the exhaust seat to be recut for the larger valve. I am also told, that they will not increase flow significantly without some pocket porting, i.e.: valve bowl cleanup. Washington State. Here is the response I got to my questions prior to purchase. Who Made them, I can't find EPN on the Web? "EPN is my company, Engine Parts Network, inc. We have manufacturers produce for us to our spec. Our valve supplier is BBB, they are located in Argentina. They are a pure manufacturer which means they have no house brand, they make Milodon, some Ferrea, Qualfast, and many others. Ted(engnbldr)" (Ted Stanwood) I noticed that the valve length differs from that in the manual? "Different manufacturers measure differently of course. Some from the expected point of seat contact, some use actual OAL, some measure from the inside of the dimple. These are simply stock OAL to make it easy, my spec sheet says 4.57" & 4.62". I had quite a few folks ask me for them when we started producing the Toyota 20R & 22R valves, so I had a couple thousand made to see what happens."

Briguy280Z, How about posting the other dimensions from your crossmember.jpeg. It looks real clean and doable. Any flex from the 1/8" steel plate? I'm still at the "looking at it" stage. Thanks, ecp48 Ed Palmer Athens, Ga

Juan at JSK is always present on ebay. I have a set of his spacers and work real well. Also one of his 60MM Throttle body spacers. You can run a search on ebay. Here is his email: jsk@jskinnovations.com. ecp48

Which model Nissan were the throttle bodies taken from?

Hey Guy, Is there something secret, what are the throttle bodies you are using?

Hey guy, A couple of problems: 1. you are at the limit (10:1) for operating on pump gas anyway. 2. the volvo uses a volvo specific base/mounting to the manifold, it would need to be milled level. Look at it, uses an oval recess in the base to meet the manifold. 3. This isn't the best turbo to use for boost/performance, becuase it is a low boost that comes on at a low revs. I have an 84 240T, running a 1990 760T motor, B230FT. The boost is lower than produced by the original turbo and the motor dies on top end. If your compression ratio was about 9:1 to maybe 9.3:1 might be doable, but not great performance. ecp48

1 Fast Z, What ate you using for throttle bodies? I didn't see it mentioned.

Thanks Guys, That answers the question. Moby, I'll post accordingly. Sorry Sims, it looked like your relay board was mounted to the top of the ECU. Thanks again, Ed Palmer/ecp48

All Zs and ZXs after, I believe 1977, do not have external regulators. It appears, as Tony D stated, that you may have a bad alternator. Pull it and take it to AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts or Pep Boys and they will check it without cost.

The head is identified on the passenger side, near the 2nd spark plug on the rail at the bottom of the head. The block is identified on the driver side, under the manifolds, similar flat boss near the top of the block, behind the distributor and thermostat housing.

Try applying PB Blaster to the stud. It is without a doubt the best penetrating fluid I've used. If it is corrosion, it should break it loose. Most Walmarts have it in automotive. ecp48

Hey Guys, You should be aware that the 1978 Z wiring is substantially different from the 1975 -77 280Z. In practical effect, Datsun started making relay and wiring changes in 1978 that are closer to a 1979 ZX than a 77 280. Mitchell has a very good schematic for the '78. I was given a xerox copy by a local shop, when I couldn't find the fuel injection relay on my 5/78 280Z. Just as an example, it is under the black bracket in front of the battery and there is now an ignition relay and two (2) fuel injection relays. The 75 - 77 280s all had it (1 relay) located on the drivers side kick panel under the dash. Many other changes exist. I was told and have not had it proven, but early 1978 Zs were supposed to be like the 1977 and earlier cars. I was told the break point was April or May build dates, but like I said, I have no first hand evidence of this. Check your 78 and see where the FI Relay/relays are and that would be a good key. Hope this helps. ecp48

Try the following email address. Mitch Mitchamore of Mitchamore's Garage in Texas. He used to be on ebay all of the time. Does Cams and Followers. They look very good and mike out true as well. I don't have enough time on them yet to say more. E. E. Mitchamore <emitch@worldnet.att.net>

What is the james_kirk.wav popup which is appearing on the site? Occured on on Monday, the 6th. I get real nervous when a popup appears wanting me to download something. Especially when it is so bizarre as a "sound" oriented popup, which purports to be necessary to the site. Thanks, ecp48/Ed Palmer Athens, GA