Jumbo240ez

Like 74_5.0 I*'m running a Griffen, aluminum. If you're running a carburated early version 302, get the chevy model it has the right side (bottom) outlet, top (left side) inlet.

All I can offer is just the 5.0 engine alone, with the aluminum heads, should weigh-in less than the stock ZX engine. What year mustang? I think a 90's Mustang comes in around 3500#s, a ZX must weigh less than that(?) so you should save there too. Have fun. Jon

I got a line on the "Green Stuff" shoes for $20. a piece-- so $80. for the set. Those should get me through a few track days. I'll let you guys know how the rear disc situation works out. Jon

Yes, the actual pad surface area is what has made me reluctant to switch. I can't find any specs on the carbotech shoes ie: cf or heat range. I can make some Hawk Blue pads work with the ZX calipers. At least the tracing dimensions show that removing a 32nd off the sides of the pads should work. Cooling would improve I think... Hell I don't know... wondering if paying for the maxima brackets is actually worth it.

Hey Doug, what are the concerns with the 79-81 ZX rear discs/calipers other than what looks to me like puny pads (and they are ugly as hell)? Jon Dan, don't you ever check your email?

You could use front Z struts in the back... they are about 2" shorter. The best way to get more travel and use more of the dampner would be to section the struts.

Yeah, I posted on Improved Touring also... gotta check all the sources! And thanks Doug... I'm having problems with carbotech's website so I guess I'll have to call them.

Anyone got a line on some rear brake shoes? MSA has Ferodo AM4 "Green stuff" rear brake shoes $140.00 a set!?!? Any other vendors that offer these. I can't seem to find any. Thanks Jon

Thanks Guys, sorry I was thinking out loud. Just to clarify a couple of things: The car doesn't stall under hard braking, but almost. I overlooked a potential fuel problem. Thanks I'll check i out. The #8 plug isn't fouled, but it's darker than the others. I don't think it's due to a leaking seal or ring. When I first installed the engine I ran a PVC without a baffle in the valve cover... DOH, the plug was fouled then. Anyway, I think I'll switch the pvc and the v/b connections. Question: Is there a simple test to see if the brake booster has gone "bad"? Under hard braking I have to press pretty dang hard on the pedal. Is that normal? Thanks. Jon

If you can program what the talking lady says I say go for it... like" Yes honey" or "That's a great idea Honey" or even "God that's a big key, Honey" hahahahahah

sorry, I should be doing this in the test facility... F#**ing pain in the ass.

what the hell??? the second pic worked. ANy Geocities experts out there that can help???

Didn't work. I worked in the preview! Freaking geocities...how/can I post pics from there?!?! Anyone?

Here's her "Race" jeep! Those are my Numbers and stuff on her jeep...Kinda cool she's into my hobby and all....

Well, this is where we put the lights. Bright as hell so she won't hit anything backing out of the grocery store! We'll put some "work" lights up on the rack for the trail. Cheers. Jon

Check this: Vacuum connection in the base plate of the carburator. Vacuum connection in the back of the intake phelum. Vacuum connection in #8 cylinder intake runner. I'm pondering what is the best place to hook-up the PCV and Brake Booster for optimum performance. Currently the PVC is connected to the intake phelum. Since it's a duel plane manifold, the #8 cylinder intake runner is right there and I guess it pulls most of the gases from the PVC (which explains why the #8 plug always looks rich?) The brake booster is hooked-up to the carb base. Under hard braking, the car almost dies... kinda like when you put your hand over the carb and block off the air. So, I'm thinking about moving the PVC to the carb base thinking that higher up in the air flow will more evenly disperse the crankcase gases. And hooking-up the brake booster to the #8 intake runner and maybe even improving booster suction(?) or would a separate vacuum canister be a better solution here? Anyone know the science behind vacuum conditions in a V8? Thanks. Jon

Those seats sure did feel good. I was surprised at how well the side bolsters held you in place. They are nice Aux.

I know some of you are Jeep enthusiasts so I thought I'd post this question here. I want to install some auxilary back-up lights on my wife's Wrangler and was wondering if any of you have done this and where you mounted them. The Jeep has a trail rack so I can mount them high if I want, though the wiring is always a small pain with that kind of mounting. What do you guys think? Thanks. Jon

Hahaha, love it! It's going to be a long time 'til the French live this down, if ever. Here's something courtesy of cc.com http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=8678 Jon

Great time Zecaci! Love to hear that stuff. jon

Or email me dude. I've tryed to get a hold you... do you ever check your email!?!? My situation has changed and it will impact my rear disc brake conversion. Jon

From our own Terry Oxendale (Blueoval) http://www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/PowerPlant.html The engine mounting may differ as you well know, but this is an extensive write-up on the Ford install, and one that I read and reread prior to performing my own. Worth another look for those considering a Ford. Jon

Is it my imagination or is the car more finished than before in this pic? Did you have the airdam since the last time Dan??? Anway, it looks good regardless. jon