LowCarbZ

This would get you close from ZCCJDM. I have this piece and am installing it on my car, i've trimmed it and done quite a bit of work to stiffen it (I always expect work when ordering any fiberglass piece). Not a bad piece but not a great piece of fiberglass either to be honest, it's the best available from what I gather if that's the air dam you want. The glass was a little thin for my liking even with the additional layer of glass when I ordered it, but it's still a workable piece and the shape/front is great. http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt46936/pd1993603/GNOSE__ZG__JDM__FRONT_SPOILER_AIR_DAM_

Sad to hear. In my early days getting to know the Z I know John helped answer several questions. And even if he didn't address me directly his intellect and input on many technical issues was of immense help in repairing/improving my car. I know many share the same sentiment. He will definitely be missed.

I'm interested to see if these fit the 74 260 as well.

Actually now that I look back at the post you made, the atlanticzcar link, I believe that's the page I used for my install as well. Looks very familiar.

From my thread on the issue I had with my car I posted this: - Bolted in the alternator - Added the Diode to the "T" connector to allow the car to shut off with the key - Jumped the YELLOW and WHITE wire after removing the Regulator on the inner fender. - Jumped the BLACK /W WHITE LINE wire and the WHITE /W BLACK LINE wires - Hooked up the battery cable and the ground to the alternator. Again, i'm just going by memory and what I posted on the forums. Someone else might have better information but if you run into any issues I can always unsheath my wiring and look at it for you.

Here's a link for some info I used http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm I changed my alternator because my car would not shut off with the key. The problem persisted even after swapping the alternator. I didn't drive the car much, bought a couple new parts to install and then suddenly the key started working again and has worked fine for 2 years. I have no idea what changed, I didn't touch anything. I had been all through the entire wiring when it was first an issue and could not find anything obvious. Very strange issue. Anyway, my alternator works great. The only thing is I may have opted for a higher amp alternator than the one I got. I think I have a 60 or 70 amp from a ZX if I remember correctly.

I'm going to give this some more thought and try and remember what I did on my car. It involved a diode and an S130 ZX alternator which bolted right in but I had to remove the external VR and re-work some wiring. This was a few years ago. I will dig up what I can on the subject.

In my opinion that thing is going to have to be torn right down to just the chassis and you won't find out just how much rust there REALLY is until you start cutting stuff out and seeing where it ends. A total ground up is the only way to justify putting that much work into that car.

Not saying you're wrong as i'm not entirely sure for the whole production year, but my early 260Z has 280Z style tail lights.

Glad you got it figured out, I was gonna say I have an R200 in my 260Z.

I have an early 74 260Z, I have no idea if the panels are original to that car (I do assume they are). I could take some pictures of them if that would help clear anything up?

I find that my door mirrors vibrate a fairly good amount and therefore I almost never use them, just the windshield mounted rearview gets used and provides a view of anything I would need behind me. Shoulder checks for lane changes otherwise. I have ZG fender mirrors that I will be mounting, and yes they are hard to track down and expensive.

Put him in a Geo before he kills somebody.

Thanks for the input on the questions I had, I will definitely get in touch with him at ZCC before ordering. He has been good in the past. I'm adding a front spoiler so the factory tie down mounts will be useless.