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Ferd/289

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Posts posted by Ferd/289

    holley 4150 power valve

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    HI,

    First, you are not going to get any accurate vac readings from simply cranking the engine over. As far as that power valve is concerned, it's use comes into play when the engine is running and and additional fuel is required.

    See this article:http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/74058_carburetor_valve_problems/index.html

    If you suspect the engine is flooding, check your float settings. There could be trash in the bowls, the needle tips could be worn etc. The idle could be too high, thus exposing the transition slots. You might consider an outright carb rebuild.

    Regarding the cam. What do you know about the cam that it's events are causing that low of vac? That wold make for one terrible street ride.

    Good luck!

    I rebuilt the carb. Put a holley trick kit in, ie new needle valves, gaskets, floats look fine and adjusted good. Just trying to figure out why engine wont start. Timing seems good, checked firing order etc., geting spark. Thats why the only thing I can think of is big vacuujm leak so little atomized fuel mixture getting to cylinders.

    Stumped.

    holley 4150 4776 600 cfm first start( non start)

    in Trouble Shooting / General Engine

    Posted

    Trying to start an engine sbf 289 with a double pumper Holley. I rebuilt the carb with a 6.5 power valve. I crank engine and it seems to ingnite fuel a tad bit, but cannot sustain any revs. Seems like its flooding out.

    I have checked, fuel to carb, spark, and dont see any vacuum leaks, valve movement seems ok..

     

    Electric fuel pump pressure is just under 5 lbs, but fluctuates from under 5 to 0 back and forth while cranking. Holley carb float level is correct.

    - will engine with a high performance cam not start if power valve too high a rating, do I need a 2.5 or 3.5 power valve?

    - would car not start if electric fuel pump not quite maintaining 5-7 pressure?

     

    I would think car would start and then either run rough or die quickly, but engine wont fire up and rev.

    Ferd

    guages on an aluminum dash

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    thats what I was thinking. I have seen many guages on metal.

    I wired the guages in parallel ie the power wire goes from one guage to another. Then the ground wire goes from one guage to another ( ie shared). Also, the last guage on the dash powers the fuel pressure guage on the engine.

    I have the main battery supply to a fuse box(15 amp), and then supply wire from the fuse box to the guages, as I said above in parallel, and guages share the common ground wire. 15 amp fuse is what is blowing which should be plenty of amp protection. I am stumped but will recheck wiring again.

    Somehow I am getting this short soon as I turn ignition on. Without dash electrically connected, I can crank engine without problem therefore ignition wiring is ok. I will recheck but wonder if my wiring design itself is bad.

    Ferd

    guages on an aluminum dash

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    I am getting a short circuit since my guages are mounted on aluminum. There is continuity from guage encasements to the dash so blown fuse. I need to isolate the guages, or mount them differently in some way not to cause a short.

    I can mount them on wood but would rather not. Anyone mount guages on metal and able to isolate them from the metal dash. Here are some pics;

     

    [src= MVC-007S-1.jpg

     

    [src=MVC-008S-1.jpg

     

    [src=MVC-006S-2.jpg

    slave cylinder moves but clutch not disengage

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    I think my clutch fork is the type that is pulled forward ( towards fornt of car) and thusly pushes throwout coller into the pressure plate fingers to release clutch. I will look through the fork opening tomorrow. I may have disconnected the fork by pulling on it 'outwards tothe side of the car. Ouch!

    Can I remove the fork without removing bellhousing?

    slave cylinder moves but clutch not disengage

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    Thanks for the responses. Someone asked about my engine, its a SBF/289. I have not worked on the car this week, but now I think I have the slave in backwards since it pushes the fork foward ( towards front of car) which would move TOB towards rear of car which I think is backwards.

    I have never worked on clutches myself before as I think you can tell.

    Ferd

    slave cylinder moves but clutch not disengage

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    Did a search on clutches not disengaging but here is my twist. When I push in the clutch pedal, the slave cylinder moves from a nuetral position to a obviously open position since it just about crushes the rubber boot.

    The pedal feels soft however and the clutch is not disengaging.

    My question is how can the slave move what seems to be the full movement, and pedal feel soft and clutch not disengage?

     

    BTW, The lever on the slave cylinder moves towards the front of the car when I press the clutch pedal. Is this correct as I did not install the slave cylinder?

     

    When in gear clutch not disengaging, when out of gear wheels freewheel.

    Ferd

    outside rear view glass to plastic backboard?

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    I am replacing an outside mirror, glass only, to the outside rear view frame. The original had a white sticky flexible putty holding the glass in place on a plastic backboard.

    To replace the mirror( "objects may seem closer") I am using rtv silicon clear sealer/ adhesive permatex brand in the tube. I am hoping the glass insert will not fall out, $35. Anyone use this product to hold glass to plastic for outside useage?

    Ferd

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