Spooler

You can use your existing tranny cross member. I cut mine and moved it forward 3/4 in. I had to bend the T5 shifter back 3/4 in. and back up. Use the T5 throwout bearing fork with a stock throwout bearing and collar. Have a custom made driveshaft built to speck. Use the Turbo clutch slave cylinder and rod. This is what it took to get it in a 75' 280z. I had no help or anyone with any previous experience to ask any questions. Boy it was fun!!! Hope this helps. I have the 3.5 R200 in my car also. Older T5 trannies use standard tranny fluid. I use 75w90 Mobil One synthetic. The new T5 trannies switched to auto tranny fluid, I can't exactly remember why but it was due to a new part they installed in the tranny and if did not use auto tranny fluid, it would eat itself....LOL

Well, you aren't driving fast enough....LOL

If you have a lope you have a big vaccum leak.... Check the boots coming from the airflow meter for cracks and the intake gasket for leaks. Spray the intake gasket with carb cleaner. The vaccum leak is after the AFM. If the plugs are fouled that is not the issue.

No I didn't have the vented setup. The set was on my car since 1995 and I got ride of it in the last couple of months. I could warp the rotors within 3 months. Been able to do that on every Z I have ever owned.....LOL Couple of 100+ blast and jamming on the brakes to make a quick turn over time takes it's toll on those small rotors. ( Living in the boonies has it's pluses LOL) I went with the drilled slotted Willwood setup on my car and I am injoying every minute of them. Got'em broke in good the other day and jumped on the brakes to make a quick left. I had to let off because I was stopping before the turn LOL and I wasn't even on them good. I forgot to add..... Best money I have ever spent on the car!!!!!!!! I hate crappy brakes.... Ever overheated your brakes to where you had NONE!!!!!!! I have ONCE..... Never again.

A guy sells these in my area. I am very interested in them and considering it very hard because I am still using the factory ECM with my turbo car.

I have had both. The 4x4 setup for about 8 yrs. I just went to the AZC Willwood setup and there is no comparision. The Willwood setup is a 10 times better setup. Just my .02.

Check your lower balljoints also. Had that happen before.

I just got my car back with new floorboards installed last week. I put in new dynamate last weekend after I got it back. This weekend I am installing new window rubbers front and hatch because they were dry rotted and seperated. I forgot how much fun these things are. LOL!!!! Oh what a big old pain in the butt. Outa here. Got to go install the hatch one and then I am done.

Yes, it should work fine. That is what was in my car before I went to a T5 due to eating trannies. 3 of them to be exact. LOL..... If you are going to run higher boost numbers than 8 psi I would start looking for another alternative.

Yes, they are a nice setup. I got mine installed and got to drive it maybe twice...LOL before it went to get the floorboards replaced. That was in December. I should have it back this weekend. Good things come to those who wait. Same guy that has my car did a rear parking brake Willwood caliper and bracket on another customers car with AZC brakes. I saw the work and asked about the price. Hmmm $1200 bucks. I told him I would use a brick..LOL

The AZC setup is only 1600 for all the parts not 3k.

On a very good motor the cylinder pressure will be at 180 PSI or higher. We checked my old car I sold back to a friend at 200,000 miles and your numbers were like what we got. They are a little low but your car should run fine. It does sound like a fuel injection issue you are having.

Very good point.... Thanks. I also wanted the ride height adjustablility that you get using this setup and more travel by using sectioned struts.

At this moment I have some motorsport auto springs I got back in 1992. I doubt they are 200 lb/in. They will be gone shortly. If I deceide not to do the coilovers/sectioning I will be changing them out for Illumina's.

I was gonna check my existing springrates before I made my mind up. The shop doing my floorboards has a springrate checker. He races dirt track. My swaybars are 1" and 3/4". I have read like crazy using the search function on this site. This is gonna be tough to get right the first try.

Well, I have read all of the threads on the suspesion setup 3 or 4 times each. Here is what I have at the moment. Springs, KYB Gas struts, Strut bars front and rear, lower adjusters for camber up front with toe adjustment in the rear. I am going to go with a coilover setup and section the struts but need some user experience with springrates front and rear for the street. At the moment if I drive a sweeping turn at 100+ my rearend seems a little loose. The strutbars helped some but I need a better setup to put this sucker on rails.

Did you ever get this issue fixed? I have had this issue before and it was due to worn rack bushings.

Couple the turbo engine with the lightened Aluminum flywheel with steel insert and Yeap, it's tuff to get a good clutch setup. Lag, very very little and when the turbo lights, well, you get the picture.

I have one that I put in a little while ago due to the front seal pucking all over my new setup and ruining my clutch. I used a stock pressure plate but a modified disk with composite pucks on the pressure plate side. I put this centerforce in and I am not very pleased with it. I can tell it is slipping just by the way it acts. Before I would be sideways after shifting into second during WOT and under boost with my last setup. This clutch setup, Noop. Buy something else. I will be looking in the future.

Sorry guy, I didn't have a chance to take a picture of it. I had to finish up some things and get it to the shop ASAP for new floorboards and a couple of more things.

I just got to drive the car after doing some finish up work and boy, those brakes are top notch. I haven't gotton on them real real hard yet. I want them to seat in real good first. Now I have brakes to stop the car on a dime. Time to work on the suspension (coil over kit) and stick it to the road. The car is just too fast for what I have, KYB's, Big swaybars, front/rear strutbars, and performance springs.

I will this weekend with the rim and tire. Car looks like crap, it needs a paintjob. I have just about got all of my sheet metal in to get'er done but the funds are running low so that will have to wait a little while. I normally would do all the bodywork and paint myself but I don't have anywhere to do it at the moment.

I hear ya!!!! I haven't even driven the car yet. I have a few more things to tiddy up. I also am gutting the interior the weekend to take the car to get new floorboards put in along with a couple more things fabricated. I am on a tight schedule at the moment. I will enjoy them soon enough. Runout was good by the way.

Install was very easy. I finished up the back brakes last night after getting another stub axle due to the nut galling out itself on the way off. Just my luck. I only had one issue bleeding the brakes. Willwood was kind enough to have not drilled the hole in one of the blead screws at the bottom. It wasn't acting right so I took and off and had a good laugh. I swapped it with one of the bottom blead screws since they have 4 per caliper and the tops screws are the major ones you bleed out on the rear calipers. I bleed the bottom ones anyway though. Edited: I almost forgot, I had a heck of a time trying to find a 15/16 MC with resevoirs. I ended up ordering a Toykico remanufactured one from motorsportauto. Darn thing wasn't cheap though. After I got done I see exactly why you need one.

I have a set on my car and I use Bridgestones G019 Grids in tire size 225/45/17. Work perfect and my car is lowered. Edited: Oops, made a fat finger on the tire size. It's 45 not 25....