HuD 91gt

I hope you don't mind me hoping in on your thread but I'm going through a similar dilemma. I have a fully working l24/e88 combo. A disassembled f54/n47 (flattop)combo which needs a new cam (smoothed intake), and the bottom end rebuilt. There is also a L28et in the junkyard, that has been sitting there for two years. Apparently turns of freely. A turbo swap would be fun in the future. A) rebuild the bottom of my f54, get a cam kit from rebello and call it a day buy turbo motor, re-ring it and toss it in NA C) put flattops into turbo block and run p90 head Options B/C I would probably put in valvetrain from working l24 motor. All the options cost money. What to do, what to do.

Great idea. My tach has been fluctuating above 4000RPM ever since I put in the new electronic ignition. This may be a good "bandaid" until I figure out a new tach solution.

Along the same topic (Sorry for stealing thread). I noticed when doing a valve adjustment on my head (Newly purchased, condition unknown) that when the cam is on a low spot (Where the lob sits when you check clearances), the rocker does not sit straight against the cam (Makes contact on one side only). When the cam lob is on a high spot, it seems to sit flat. There is some play in the rockers, and it looks like the retaining clip is what is causing it to sit slightly off centre. I don't think this is a huge concern as it enters itself but I thought i'd ask anyhow.

I think I misinterpreted a "MSD type ignition" (6AL or similar?) with a MSD coil (Blaster 2, which I have). I read the page from top to bottom, and that's all I can piece together.

Thanks for the advice. I'll have to keep an eye out for a later model tach. Just after I posted this, I pulled up this website ( http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ ). In the paragraph specific to the 280zx swap, It specifically says not to wire the coil directly to the E12-80. Am I in serious danger of damaging the box? I thought this was my only option as no one makes a coil in the range specified by the manufacturer.

Hello all, Thanks to grannyknot sending me a 280zx distributor mount, I wired up the new refurbed 280zx distributor (E12-80 box). I also purchased a .7ohm MSD Blaster 2 coil (I realize the safe range is ~0.8-1.1ohms). After hooking it all up, the car fired right up. Once I set the timing properly she was running like a champion. The only issue i've come across is the tachometer literally stops at 4.5-5k RPM. It bounces around as the revs keep climbing. Tomorrow i'm going to check all the grounds, and make sure all my connections are clean. Anyone have any more advice on this issue? From my readings, I don't think I should have any issues with the 240z tach. But I really have no idea how it works.

Just curious as to why two 10" fans aren't recommended? I just tossed on a set of 2 cheapo 10" fans from Amazon on my 3-core champion radiator. Seems to work just fine.

EDIT: Early pedal box required for my 1971! Thanks Aero Z! I've also heard that's doable (Swapping pedals), but I heard it's easier just to swap the box? Either way I'm open to either option if anyone has anything available.

Looking for a pedal box assembly from a 1970-1971 manual 240z. Located in Vancouver Canada. If located fairly local, looking for the hydraulic clutch line from a 240z as well.