12doplumbing

That's the factory one held in place, not the new one...

Yes. I mounted it and vacuum port, bolt studs -- everything is identical.

My son and I cut out the spare tire well and mounted a 15 gallon fuel cell underneath: We want to mount the pump right alongside the cell underneath. Anyone have pictures of a similar set up? Or thread suggestions? We'll be using the same filler location as factory via a new filler neck, etc.; welding a new cover over hole with a chase for filler neck. Any suggestions on fuel pump for turbo engine? Basic reliable pump sufficient for the system? Also, was planning on going with Fatts Rollover tubing schematic you find on Ratsuns http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/243815-fats-fuel-air-trap-system.html#post2712471 and abandoning / removing canister from above and all the factory hose routings. Any thoughts? New filler neck comes with breather, and with rollover system planned, what other item should I be concerned with? I have new 3/8 feed and return rigid tubing plumbed through tunnel...

Help: I bought this booster which was listed as fitting my '72 but it's much smaller than what I believe is factory: I purchased from Auto Parts Warehouse -- couldn't seem to locate anywhere else. Any thoughts? Everything looks like it's in the exact position as factory, just the housing itself is smaller.

I have been stuck on this section of my son's build for a while now. I've got about an inch gap between the inner and outer fenders from cutting. I used riv-nuts (damned things spin around - about half grab enough to stay stationary) and screwed up by getting a similar look to your set up. Almost exactly; we hated the uneven gap over the top. Not wanting to raise the rear ride height, but keeping it set on the mid range spring adjustment on our coilovers, we elected to CUT MORE FENDER - my son wincing and saying "daaad, are you sure we should....". After the cut, and drilling new, slightly higher, riv-nut locations for our JDM flares, our result was: Well, I thought we had a picture with the flares on -- will post when we get her all welded back up. Bottom line: we adjusted and readjusted; moving the flare more forward, or down in front so the end on the rear was higher than the front -- same angle as the bottoms of the wheel wells themselves, if you follow. We liked this look better. My son kept accusing me of using the front flares on the rear -- and he had me doubting, because they are slightly different... The 16" x 10" rear set up sits nice and stout. Any thoughts or thread suggestions / pics on filling this gap?:

been trying to load an image of it...

this is a Cordone A-1 booster they said its for my '72 240 -- way smaller than what i had in there...

Well, where did you find them? I need to bolt my T5 to my block -- no bolts....

Thanks Johnc, but any info on size differences?

So, does anyone know why this "bearing" style pilot is shorter than the stock "spacer" style that came with my clutch kit? Also, wondering what performance value this "bearing" style will/would offer. Don't want to install this "just because".

Sign me up for one! Perfect timing; I just got through gutting my son's '72 and have ordered PDK's fiberglass dash... Just set the clutch in the BW T5... . Nothing is being salvaged as far as wiring is concerned.

Okay, So son bought Diamond Racing wheels for the '72 and flares... 16" diameter, 8" wide fronts and 10" wide rears. Any suggestions on tires? Brand and sizing combinations? He wants to stretch a little; like a 235 for rears and a 185 for fronts

Hey Victorjr24, post pictures and a narrative when you do this, would ya? I'll do the same. We might find a lot of assistance / feedback while doing it. Besides, where would we be without guys posting their shop journeys?

Tony, any blogs you've come across showing a step-by-step of this ECU install? Any links or suggestions? We're getting ready to make a decision soon... Thx

Tony, did you ever create a blog with pictures on one of your rewiring projects? Anything to show us how it's done; inspire us? I've only done a Painless Wiring set up in a '65 Chevy truck about fifteen years ago and from what I recall there were three times as many wires left unconnected as connected and the whole project seemed to become a Pain - PITA - due to my trying to incorporate it. Any blogs anyone has found on abandoning factory wiring and running a complete custom set up; dash, gauges etc?

Alright, alright, I like it -- great idea. Looked briefly at "Future Electronics" website and will continue searching for Vector and similar. Much cleaner set-up. Thanks

Hey Red, liked your thoughts. My son and I ripped out all the wiring once we discovered some gnawing marks and funky splices from others over the years. Do you know of any links or blogs of someone who has completely required their 240? We've planned on a stainless dash, and an entirely custom interior. My son wants toggle switches for everything and says that if he can figure out how to do it: some sort of hologram display on his windshield. He's fifteen, and like me, ignores anyone who expresses doubt and difficulties I will most likely have to figure out how to do the rewire if I want the project out of my shop -- so besides the Haltech ECU, a more modern fuse box? Suggestion or link referral appreciated.

Hey guys, finally found my way back here to review responses. Don know why my email wasn't notified of thread responses... It's pretty funny -- my son wants the chirping, wants the drifting, beat me to the punch on attempting "something" with the rear end in order to accomplish this, etc.. I'm okay with it; allowing him to learn his lessons. He's a hard worker and wants to continue wrenching. I am double checking the choices the guy we bought the whole package from chose; the turbo motor, the T5, the R200 3.9 "worthless" rear end. Been wanting to understand the choices and make sure they're as compatible and desirable as the other guy felt they were. From what I gather the T5 is better suited for a 3.545 rear end (I'm looking for one). But it's not that big of deal, really, right? He just bought 16"x10" rear wheels and 16x8 fronts, and some JDM flares. He really likes what other members have done and will learn to fix what he breaks Appreciate the feedback.

Is this R200 an LSD? It has stampings indicating its a 3.9 ratio. We went to service / change oil, after confirming gear ratio, and found the inner gearing/rings were welded. Looks like a good weld job; done in four places from what I can see through the opening -- on each half shaft spline ring and on each middle bridge ring. Was this to get rid of the LSD headache? Some youngster wanted to peel out/drift easier? Appreciate pros and cons and suggestions. Like, should I just restore what was here? Is it hard to swap this internal setup for 3.7 gearing? Costly?

My 15 year olds '72 build has come to a crossroads; we bought a T5 Borg Warner thinking it was from a non-turbo 280zx. We have a 3.9 gear ratio in our R200 and are getting ready to drop in a turbo engine. We have read the threads regarding the best match up for a turbo L6 is the 5 speed from an 81-83 non turbo 280 along with a 3.9 ratio r200. We started our "double checking" of driveline components in prep for a driveline search when my son found the numbers on the Borg Warner transmission tell us it was made for a 1983 turbo 280. This had my son reread the many threads regarding configuring a 3.9 with this 5 speed and turbo -- he and I both understand that this will cause first and second gear to be really short; an annoyance he really doesn't want to keep investing in. Any feedback regarding this interpretation? Any remedies short of another 5 speed? And if we need another 5 speed (one from a non turbo 81-83) is it a "Borg Warner"? Or a "T5" at all? Appreciate help here. We don't want the reverting to a 3.54 r200 solution....