cd1105

In the first picture with the cut wires, you are correct that they are cut from the connector(not sure why, but they orignal creator of the guide had them cut). I did like you said and just plugged the connector into the connector on the harness, and it works fines. With the yellow START wire, look under your steering column and find the connector that goes to your ignition switch. I'm not sure if the colors are the same for every year, but there should be a yellow wire that signals the starter to crank when the key is turned to the START position. Cut and splice the yellow wire on the harness to that yellow wire on the ignition switch connector. Look at this diagram toward the ignition switch and you will see what i mean. Where the circle is from plug 2 to the ignition switch is, is the spliced connection point.

Hope you feel better man, no need to rush for the pics.

Thank you. I appreciate it.

Does any one have a picture of how the tach signal wire and what wire it is spliced into on the stock harness? I have a late 260z, but i just need to see a picture of the stock tach power feed under the dash so i can get a idea of where its at.

Yes, the kit comes with instructions. You put it in there and shake it around to coat the entire inside. When pouring it out it may be difficult to get it all out, so to prevent large build ups i kept rotating it periodically after i drained all that i could.

KBS coating is the way to go! I used it for my 75 gas tank resto, it came out great!

bumpy

oil pump shaft is in as the fsm states and looks. Dizzy Rotor is aligned with the #1 spark plug position at TDC.

I have the fuses hooked up in place of the fusible links already although, I'm only using 20amp or 30amp fuses(forgot which one,I will check), but that's not the problem, none of the fuses are or have blown. All my relays come on like they are supposed to according to what position the ignition switch is in and so does the ecu. I haven't got a chance to hook up the ground wire to the starter as people in the post above have mentioned above, but i will in a few days. Yes the harness came from a running 82' 280zxt. Are you local? just in case I have questions..........

I wanted to clean up the engine bay to have the least amount of clutter in there. I'm going to try moving the battery back to the engine bay and hooking up the negative terminal to the starter.

Tried this and yes, the engine cranks over with no issues.

I think i will try that tomorrow, Thank you. I going to try and trace the grounds that were burned up and see how much damage there is.....I hope all of the grounds on the stock harness under the dash isn't burnt to hell. Do you have any idea what could be going on with the coil spark in the first post?

Currently only the negative cable from the battery runs to the seat belt bolt. Is this not a good spot for grounding the battery? If not I think i'm going to try what you said and run a negative cable from the battery in the hatch to the stock battery grounding spot on the stater bolt. And yes no passenger seat...they're overrated and useless in my book lol. I would have got a minivan if I wanted to haul people around.

Because the battery is relocated to the hatch, the negative terminal cable off the battery is grounded to the passenger seat belt bolt(i'm not using the passenger seat), instead of the usual bolt on the starter.

I tried doing all that minus taking out the spark plugs. I'm going to try it with the spark plugs out and see what happens. Any idea what could wrong with the spark? i went out today and also noticed that the wire that was burning in the engine bay was a black wire(ground) in the stock harness. I found a thread of a guy who is having almost exactly the same problem as me - My link...maybe I don't have enough ground because i relocated the battery and the battery negative cable is no longer connected to the starter??

I've been at this build for two years threw the ups and downs, but this one may be the down that breaks me. I'm an l28et swap in my late model 260z(11/74). For the past two months I've been trying to get the car to crank and fire, with no luck. I have fuel and spark(will get to the spark in a second) but the car won't fire. Originally i thought traced the problem to my battery(optima red top), it had sat for almost a year and when I went to put it in the car it didn't start. So I thought simple enough, I would charge the battery. I charged the battery to full and it would crank, for a few times and then slowly die out. I had a friend give the battery a jump and I would get power, and then again crank and die out slowly like it was losing cranking power. I sent the battery, back for the warranty, and in the the time it took for them to send me a new battery I figured out I had a timing problem, where the oil pump shaft wasn't lined up correctly. I fixed the problem and aligned the shaft accordingly to the fsm(82 280zx). When the new battery arrived I had dropped it in turned the key and again tried to fire the car, but with no luck. I suspected that there was a problem with the connection from the ignition switch, to the wire that connects to the starter, so i by passed it and tried jumping the starter. When i jumped the starter the motor cranks over and slowly loses cranking power, but again fails to fire. Here's the twist, if I jump the starter and the motor cranks over for a few seconds I can hook up the ignition wire back up to the starter, go back in the car and crank it over with the key for a while before it starts to slowly die out and lose cranking power. I thought maybe I have a bad starter, so I went and picked one up from kragen tonight and tried to start it again both with the key(which didn't work) and jumping the starter. When jumping the starter the motor again, cranks over for a few seconds strongly but slowly loses power and the cranking becomes weak. I verified the timing on the distributor, and that the cylinders were getting fuel. The spark is weird, by that I mean when I use the key to turn the ignition to the "ON" position the ecu light, fuel pump comes on to prime the fuel system, and you can hear a spark tick at about 2 second intervals(I also pulled a spark plugged and watched it do it). I almost sure that I'm not supposed to be getting a spark like that when the ignition switch is only turned to the "ON" position, I believe it should only spark when I turn the switch to the start position. I have no idea what can be causing this. To add to all the madness, today i when I tried to start it by jumping the starter it started to crank and then all of a sudden it KEPT GOING even after i stopped jumping the starter. I rushed to turn the key to the off position and it kept going. Wires started to smoke in the engine bay and under the dash(f!*K) so i ran to the battery and disconnected the power wire and it stopped. On my car the battery is relocated to the hatch and the positive wire goes through a hole in the firewall directly to the starter stud, and the ground wire is hooked up to where the passenger seat belt bolt is on the body of the car. I haven't hooked up the battery again to see if everything thing was still working, lights, blower motor, headlights, etc... I', too scared to hook back up the battery to check everything, in fear that I might further damage the wiring. The only thing i can think of is something may be wrong with where I spliced my switched and 12v start connections for the F.I. harness that is drawing power. I have the yellow 12V wire from the F.I. harness spliced under the steering column into the stock 12v yellow and black wire, and the switch power wire(black/white) from the F.I. harness spliced into the stock black/white wire(ON) under the steering column. There is also a switched power wire coming from one of the relay in the engine bay spliced into another black/white wire i found in the stock harness in the engine bay. I've came so far to give up on this thing now, but I don't know what else to do, the continuous cranking and smoking wire really threw a curve-ball at me and I am low on LOST. I'm in need of some help from someone in the Bay area that has done this swap, for some guidance. If you can help please pm me your contact information, Thanks. I don't think I can solve this "series of unfortunate events" over the forums ..........would love to be proven wrong

I think i should add the write up for the 260z(late model) since i just did the swap . I have a late model 260z. but if you tell me the color of the wires coming from your external voltage regulator to the harness, I can maybe help you out. It is really as simple as dexter said once you figure out which color wires get spliced into each other.

bump

Does anybody have a late 260z wedge engineering seat bracket for sale? Even a custom one that someone made for a late 260z will work, as long as they work with aftermarket bucket seats. Please pm or email me at cd008@live.com.

Thank you, will try. What about the circle part on the dizzy cap? Is that where the #1 spark plug wire needs to be?

That doesn't look like 11:25. And the picture above that one helps , but i'm confused as to where I should be measuring the 11:25 from? The two bolt holes or a vertical line like in the first picture?

nice. why was an adapter needed(I don't actually see it in the picture?)?

So I'm in the middle of a l28et swap into my Late model 260z. The car cranks, gets fuel,spark, but won't. I'm assuming its a timing issues, and would like some verification on a few things. First off is this the 11:25 position of the oil pump rod people on the forums are talking about(using the two distributor bolt holes as a 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock reference)? This IS with the engine at T.D.C compression stroke. This is how the rotor inside the distributor sits when fitted to rod position in the picture above. The rotor is facing the front of the motor toward the driver side headlights. Does the positioning look correct? This is the cap over the distributor. As i am writing this I am kicking my self , because I am looking at another thread that points out the raised portion on the dizzy cap that indicates the #1 spark plug position. If it is the circular dot on the dizzy cap in the picture below, I may have just solved my problem Currently i have the #5 cylinder spark plug wire hooked up to the position closest to the raised circular portion.