fl327

thanx guyz, ill check into the painless wiring harness for sure really soon, i really need that, man those switches are like 100 a pop, man oh man oh man, yo the blue lights are dot approved, i dont know, if i get a fix it ill fix it......

hey i had the same problem in my old honda shitvic, limo tint everywhere even that front visor tint they love so much, crap i went with possibly a deadly route, i bought a small butane torch from home depot, and glazed all of the tint with it, never holding it in one spot for more than a second, over and over again for about three minutes total, boom. pulled off each piece in one piece and didnt even have to clean the glue, i just pulled it while it was still kinda warm, i dont know, worked for me!

hey does anyone out there have the upgraded cool blue sylvania headlamps on their z? im going to try to use them possibly as an upgrade to my candlelight headlights that im running right now. im scared that they put out too much juice for my poor light switch, which i have had to replace twice!!!!! ok guyz im rambling, any help is great FL shake em and bake em....

hey guyz and galz, ive finally worked almost all the bugs out of this z v8 drivetrain, to the point where i basically did the conversion all over again, now i am going to start up on the electrical side, which i hate hate hate ok here it is, when i turn the headlights on the left light shines great, but the other one only bearly comes on, but its on ive tried different light housings and changed teh fuses, that is about the extent of my electrical expertise, does anyone know what this could be, and one other thing, the lights do come on both good every once in a while...any help would be great thankz FL 327

ok guyz, im writing this one in appreciation for your advice regarding clutch engagement finally got that thing poppin fresh every time without having to pin the pedal to the floor. im running a 1 1/16 wilwood tandem master cylinder to a 1970-1 datsun 1200 slave cylinder, the master gives you more juice and teh 1200 slave gives more a longer fork to adjust that pedal feel that extra inch or two that you need, i originally ran the master to a stock datsun slave, which worked fine-but the pedal released really really low and that was with all the adjusting that unit could make. the 1200 bolts right in and gives you some extra play in there, it feels great, by the way, im running this on a mild 327 married to a muncie fourspeed, and i needed the extra play so that i would get arthwritis of the leg from my new stage 2 69 ss maro clutch!! thanx guyz, i hope this article helps people out the same way you guyz done did it......

im not sure whats going on for certain ill be in reverse right, and when i give it gas, it will stall for a second, i hear and feel a loud ass clunk, then it goes and does its thing fine, moving in reverse just had abad experience on the freeway as well, at about 2500 in 4th doing about 75 (3.36gears and a four speed muncie) the rear end started vibrating so hard and loud i had to pull off and take thestreets to where i was going, what does it all mean, ?????? thanx guys [This message has been edited by lonehdrider (edited December 12, 2000).][/b]

hey guys have a problem here sometimes when i want to go into reverse like in a parking space, ill go into the reverse gear and give it some gas, and the car feels like its going over a small hill or something like that, then its ok and it goes and drives ok. also say im driving along and come rolliing to a stop, i put it in neutral, and i hear a small clicking noise from my differential what does this mean, is my r200 out of comish ion or what? im going into the suspension and tranny for christmas break, and want to know if my differential would be ok once i put new bushings and a new mount up in there? or should i hit the boneyards now and grab me a new one, what should i do????

yeah, they are interchangable,280 go for that, it what they use when you change the brakes to a toyota 4x4 front brake move, do that one too while youre at it, the harness i dont know, you could probably wire up a skyline one in there, we need more photos!!!!

are you sure those rear flares arent on backwards maybe?? man thats one bad z. youve got to show us when its done, those watanabe rims kick butt too. were all jealous over, how about some rubber burnage flicks, and how much is that job costing you??????????? youre the man [/b]

Thanx Myron, by the way, did you need any adaptor plates, shims or anything like that, i have a 280zx brake master cyl ready to go, does that require any mods to install as well??? and what kind of tires did you have on the 77? im afraid that my 205-70-14s with 280z six spoke mags wont fit......!!!

i would like, well really desperately need, to upgrade my brake system here, last night in the rain fishtailed downshifting and standing on the brake pedal and i know i need these brake the forums that document this swap say things like shims and adaptor plates all over them, i have no idea what these things are, can someone who has done or is familiar with this swap school me in laymans terms what to get and what to do, any advice would be greatly appreciated. and also, my worst nightmare is that when i do it, the wheels wont fit back on do you know if they will fit with 205-70-14 with the famous 280zx mags on a 240z combo???? thankz guys, i had have one sorry car if it werent for you../.. Leonard four pistons pleezzzz!!!!!!

hey guys, are any of you familiar with the howe racing and mcleod master clutch cylinders??? they are 7/8 bore and i dont know if they will help my clutch engagement on the z, do any of you v8ers use one or know if it will work right in the z. sorry if im wasting space in this forum, but i dont know if anyone would answer if i posted it in the bottom of my last one. thankz Leonard fairlady 3-2-savage

quote: Originally posted by Mikelly: Ross, You would be very correct. I have it in the plans get the car to a very respectable tuner by spring. However, I'd also like to swap it to fuel injection if at all possible and make lots of HP in the process. I know, I know, I want it all, but thats me... Oh, and the shop I plan to take it to will be way more than $200... I plan to tune on the dyno to the toon of $150 an hour. My buddy with the 426 stroker Mustang had $540 in his tuning and 4 dyno pulls. I suspect that with all the variables I have, I'll have a $700 bill by the time I'm done. Mike hey there, ive got a tpi setup from a 88 camaro for you, everything, wiring injectors computer, very intact, willing to let it go cheap.....

quote: Originally posted by Frank280z: Leonard, The stock datsun slave cyl. is adequate. But I feel that you have to change out the master cyl. to a larger one. Without a doubt. It worked for me. Frank Lone, the m22 is really noisy. You're right. I'm using a M21 now. I scored it for $200. Had to cut out the left side of the tunnel. Fabricate a bolt-in plate that sits out 2" more than it used to. And it does not go past the width of the seat either. I'm using the super street shifter. With a Mustang replacement stick.Wheel skins leather boot for a porsche 944. 7/16" T handle. I don't have more than 3" of travel. And I'm in fourth before you know it. In the future I will go with a fortes t5. Frank thanx frank. ill try it, right now im looking at the tilton units, hey frank, does the shifter on your car sit in the fusebox, thats where my mine is, i think its because my motor is little forward and a little high set. im always in fourth myself, third most of the time, and usually start out in normal driving in second, but dang i love the whine and power.....what is a fortes t5 and how much do they usually go for?????

quote: Originally posted by lonehdrider: Being as both of you guys have the same engine/tranny combo I'm considering in my Z, what do you think of the muncie in there? What rear end ratio's are you using,(i use the tallest available, the 3.36's, and i still am doing 3k at 80mph,its the muncie, the gears are super low) and is it buzzy (rpm wise) on the freeway?( i dont notice the buzz so much until the freeway, but there is buzz, get a rockcrusher m22 and you will know buzz) My 72 240 has an auto. with 3.54 gears(youll rock with those gears, tall as they are, im useing 3.36 and i feel like i have 4.11's) and because my car will see really only limited freeway use, a 4sp might be the ticket. The cost factor is important to my project and I'm really leaning toward the ole 4sp muncie, considering its really strong and cheap to buy used, it seems like a reasonable alternative. Oh yeah, one other question, as to the transmissions length, hows the shifters position in the stock hole in the floor? Any info would be appreciated. (my stock hole is not in use, my shifter comes out of the fusebox, aka scarab conversion, i used to be an auto too and i am in the process of making the old hole in the floor a door where i can throw away "stuff" in case of emergency. Thanks, Lone [This message has been edited by lonehdrider (edited November 02, 2000).]

quote: Originally posted by Frank280z: What master cyl. and slave cyl. are you using?? I have the same engine tranny setup. I'm using a Tilton 1" master to SS braided line to a stock Datsun Z slave cyl. mounted on a custom bracket. The bracket bolts to the engine above the oil filter with a 3/4" bolt. And one more into the bellhousing with another 3/4". The slave cyl. was lined up to the Lakewood fork. And last and most important for complete engagement. I removed the stopper plate under the clutch pedal. Thanks Fast Frog for that tip...Remove that and see what happens first. Try the rubber piece before you take the whole thing out. If you are using the 5/8 datsun master,that could definitely be your problem also. I would look into a larger unit. Frank im using the stock 240z master and slave which could be it, stopper under the clutch pedal?? ill check it out. my slave is mounted in a position quite similar to yours. what other slave besides the one you used would work well. i dont want to mutilate the slave too much because ive had some real problems with clutch disengagement, ill chieck the rubber stop first. thanx a bunch

no, this isnt quite related to my previous post. how do you know if your u-joints are in need of replacement? ive also not had to go under the car too much to check out the componenets of the drivetrain, generally which u-joints should i get to swap them, i think im giong to change them out for piece of mind. i have the sbc swap going, and i doint knwo whether to get chevy or datsun u -joints, im looking at the motorsport spicer heavy duty u-joints and im sure theyre grat, but not sure if they will work of the chevy driveshaft and what not, thanx again guys....

hey everybody, yes i know i have posted this before but everytime i drive the car it reminds me of how much i direly need to get some real clutch matters solved im running a m21 four speed adn reverse will almost never engage while the motors running, i often have to turn it off go in reverse and start it up to do it, and sometimes it really sucks what is the best unit in your opinions and what has worked for you guys best, i would really love to get some inuput from someone who runs something similar to me, a sbc with a muncie 4spd. its not that i dont appreciate the advice from my other post , i just want to knwo exactly which units will do the best job before i get stranded again with no clutch at all.... Leonard

hey i really love my 327z but i have this problem which bugs me i cant get reverse to engage in my car unless i turn it off throw it in rvs. then turn the car back on and hit thegas its a muncie 4spd and it sucks im using a 240z clutch slave and master setup and im wondering if i should upgrade to a bigger setup like a 280z or so so that i can engage reversewithout turning the car off. its a pain.......

quote: Originally posted by Mikelly: I'd take a serious look at the Bridsgestone RE730. It has one of the best bang for the buck ratings in the performance tire industry right now. Super soft, yet good tread wear rating for a Z rated tire. I hear NOTHING but good about this tire and will consider it when I swap to 17s... Mike will 17s fit on a z?? if so how big would the tires be on that combo????

yes, i have about 300hp and 300tq and i find it very hard to launch , so difficult,which really doesnt matter much when im racing hondas, acuras, mr2 and other four cylinders which i know i can compensate for lack of launch for raw power but when i line up with the stangs maros and 300zxtt the launch matters more, do you think some meaty sixteens will work like a 16x7 of some sort fit into the wheel wells nicely, i need some fatter tires and tighter rims on this guy....

quote: Originally posted by RickB: I went the cheapo route and slapped a set of Nitto Extreme Drag Radials (205-55-15's) on the small 14" mags on my Z. I am very impressed with their performance! I can flat out wood the loud pedal from a stoplight BTW, my ride calculates right at 300 horse and is lowered like you had mentioned of yours. I went five rounds at the dragstrip the other week with these tires until a rain out in the semi finals. I ran two in a row dead on dial in's leaving off idle and floorboarding it. I'll know soon how well the tires work when i try out a 100 shot of juice as soon as the streets are dry and i have a little time RickB 76 280V8

hey yall, what kind of tires are the best to go with on 240z 1972 with 300hp and 300+ tq? right now i have the 280z mags on mine with some 205/70/14s and i have the worst time launching known to man. i want to get some nice 16 or 17 inch tires from 5zigen or momo or something like that, does anyone out there know the proper offset and lug fittage as well as the maximum tire that will fit a stock 240 without rubbing. my car is lowered about an inch on all sides. anyone out there, i need to hook up harder, help me pleeeeas. thanx guys.

quote: Originally posted by MrClean280ZX: Another Supra Swap! I was looking to get a Mk IV Supra Engine, but I know that it will cost some serious bucks. I think that I may go for it, though. Or even with the Z31 mill. Oh, yeah-DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT PUTTING IN A Z32 ENGINE. That is far more costly and difficult than you can imagine.(Over $10,000) I was thinking about that swap, and I called a shop that had performed one, and the guy gave me the great news. wow, are you going for that swap? that sounds crazy doesnt that engine make like 320hp and 300lbs, thats pretty crazy, in a z you must feel like a god with that new school power, wow i think something like that may be beyond me does anyone know someone that has done the 280zxt swap into a 240? or a 84-89 v6 swap?

quote: Originally posted by John Scott: Leonard, I think any turbo 6 set up would be cool. Is supercharging (centrifugal) an option, or do you want to go more high tech? I'm sure you'll get some good feedback on this one. yeah, do they make a supercharger for the 280z block or maybe the 84/89 300zx swap? if i go with the 300zx swap i would go turbo for sure, with the 280 i can see it go either way with cool results, i hear that the 84-89 is a good swap, but i dont know anyonje who has performed this particular one supercharged?????do they make one for the 2.8 i was thinking going twin turbo 300zx, but i also hear that the 300zx tt is kind of big and has trouble fitting into its own body, which is wider and a little bit bigger than the 240z, which is my biggest concern with the move. im not only building for power this time, i want this one to get good gas and run cross country and autocross reliably, the v8 was my dragster and some autocross, i want the next one to be reliably fast and handle a lot more, plus be daily drivabel JS