Oddmanout84
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Posts posted by Oddmanout84
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Unenginehoistify it then.
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Can't say for sure since I don't know what you have without a picture, but I thought some of those damper pullers have a pointed end at the termination of their "bolt" and are designed to push against the crank pulley bolt itself. The crank pulley bolt being backed off the crank by a few threads. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, cause the last few times I removed a pulley they slid right off. Never needed a pulling tool.
To keep the crank from spinning its as easy as putting the car in gear, using something to jam the flywheel or flywheel flange.
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Pretty sweet job on that interior.
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I'll bite. This has been in the back of my mind for a long while, and just entered into my personal "skunkwerks" production last night. I had to do SOMETHING with all these empty boxes from Summit piling up!!! Its obviously not done, not even to the prototype phase. Plans are to make it out of sheet aluminium, maybe a fiberglass model. I would have liked to weld sections of it together, but I only have the ability to weld steel. So I'll probably end up using clecos, pop rivets and/or maybe some countersunk bolts.
The intercooler as you can see rests on a piece of steel bar stock. This was the original way I mounted it when I first swapped the L28ET in the car. I'm retaining that bar stock, but cutting out the middle section inwards of the lower intercooler mount bosses. Then I'll reweld sections of it to the lower rad support in a triangle shape. In the void created, I'll be mounting a low profile oil cooler in a "V" angle in relation to the intercooler (clearance issues, especially with the -10 inlet/outlet).
I'm also thinking about enlarging the hole on the right side of the radiator support (below where I pass my intercooler plumbing) to pass plumbing for a cold air intake. The filer will be about half the size shown protruding into the ducting. Of course, it will be sealed in.
The whole idea of the design is to block off the upper portion of the grill as others have done, but also retain a stock look from a distance. So I've designed it to fit neatly behind the stock 240z upper grill. I originally was going to drill out the spot welds and remove the 280z turn signal brackets, but they work PERFECTLY for mounting this setup
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That thing is massive! I've been thinking of fabricating my own intake manifold as of lately. I saw an "RB25" plenum on eBay, but just couldn't bring myself to pay that much for something I could make. I'm glad you posted this, really solidifies the decision to not buy the RB plenum.
I wouldn't entirely rule it out. if you look at the photo, you can see that while the N42 intake plenum is MUCH shorter than the custom plenum, the runners curve outward to the ports on the head and brings it much closer to the length of the RB26 plenum. So you could easily (I use that word VERY loosely) use straight runners to connect to the head. I'm also pretty sure this plenum is larger (at least in girth) than the standard fare RB26 intake.
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A little while back, I stumbled upon this on ebay and got it for a ~relatively~ low price. It was marketed as an unfinished RB26 intake manifold. Unfinished is right, as the only parts included are the shaped plenum and a backing plate. Besides being polished, the casting looks like it was made in some guy's back yard by pouring a crucible of molten aluminium into a shaped hole. But at least the outer surfaces were polished!!! I have had visions of the casting failing under positive pressures, intake shrapnel tearing through the hood. A little paranoia there. Whoever made this did a better job than I could though. Still, seemed a bit interesting to try to give a go at fabricating an intake for the L6. Maybe not as easy as buying a Lone Wolf intake, but more fun than stabbing yourself in the eye with a rusty spoon.
I intended to turn it into a sort of pet project to eventually go on my L28ET when the time was right. However, there was no size reference in the photographs. When I got it, I realized quickly that this thing is HUGE. Hopefully not too huge. I certainly wouldn't run a manifold like this with my dinky stock T3 setup.I don't even think I'd even run it with the TO4e hybrid I'm currently assembling, as the compressor is .50AR. Plan down the road is to weld some velocity stacks on the inner side of the backing plate, and figure out what type/size of runners to use. I found a thread on another site (I think Zcar.com) where 1-fast-z was talking about the ideal length for the runners can be determined using an equation, which optimises the flow for the engine RPM. I also remember seeing a custom setup in a recent Nissan Sport magazine where the owner used what looked like triple Webber runners with 12 injector bosses, one primary at the stock location and secondaries farther up. That would be the easiest option I guess, maybe not the cheapest. I don't think I want to use ITBs anyway, I figured I'd just weld the flange for either a KA24 or larger Q45 throttle body on the intake.
Any commentary is welcome of course, even if it is something like its-too-big-you-idiot. Its a long term project, mostly for fun, and I WILL be trying to use as much research as possible as I construct it. I'm just curious if anybody has any input.
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She'll ride with me. In fact, today we got her gloves and jacket (at her request). Goddamn women and their mixed signals.
They can be like that, lol.
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I had my Harley 1200 Sportster custom when I first met my girlfriend. She had never seen it or ridden on a bike beforehand. At first, she was apprehensive. When she came along for our first ride I took it slow at first, then let loose. No problems at all, she loved it and now wants a bike of her own someday. If your girl refuses to ride on the bike, she's either scared you're going to ride crazy or do something stupid. Ease her into it. If she refuses just based on looking at it (and with the previous experiences in mind) it seems to me this is all about control. If that's the case, drop it like last week's trash. Its toxic otherwise.
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Not sure if you're willing to drop money on gauges, but the Speedhut speedometers (GPS and "traditional" VSS) are pretty nice. I have one that is/was hooked to a 240sx VSS in my transmission. All you have to do is calibrate it by driving a known distance of 2 miles, usually between mile markers on the highway. The internal workings of the speedometer will count the pulses and formulate the pulses per mile at the conclusion of the test. Then you're good to go!
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Some anime nerd is going to make a fudge sundae in his pants when he sees that.
I almost did.
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Is it just me, or would voting for a barber shop you've never been to in order for it to win a contest be somewhat unethical?
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Thanks guys!
There is an interesting bit in this month's Racecar Engineering about fender vents. Actually it's really about dive planes, but there are about 2 sentences on fender vents that say that they got more downforce from the vents than they did the dive planes, and their vents were apparently "engineered" with a cut off wheel...
Are you talking about fender vents ducting air from the engine bay or just air from under the fenders themselves?
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What tool do you use to make those chamfered holes? I wanted to do the same thing to make my engine bay -to- outer fender vents but wanted to maintain structural integrity.
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She runs!!!!!!! More wiring to work out this weekend.. But refartless she's taking her first trip under her own power in over 8 years Sunday evening. So pumped
Fixed.
Good to hear you got it running!
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I really hope some more input comes to this thread (for purely selfish reasons
).I'm in the process of constructing an EDIS setup for my Haltech E6K system, and am hitting some speed bumps when it comes to wiring up the sensor and WHERE to send the signal to. From what I've found through google search and some haltech forums, you either need the Motorcraft module, or you don't. I'm a bit confused as to how you would wire the coils to the system without it. I'm using individual coil-on-plugs. According to the Haltech manual, you'd wire the CAS sensor directly to the ECU to get the signal, then wire the coils in pairs (1-6,2-5,3-4) from the ECU to get the signal to them... but the Haltech E6K "apparently" doesn't have an igniter built in. Can't see how one would wire in the Haltech ignition module or A Crane/MSD6 system... This is a conundrum.
Edit: CRAP! Just found out Haltech sells a triple channel ignition module! Maybe this will work... maybe for your application too?
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Showing that all the 240Z parts have been discontinued.
shhhhhiii....t.
Well, must have been relatively recently. I found that link a long time ago and just recently remembered this thread and posted it.
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I'm necroposting but it was my thread anyway.
Here it is, the FULL fiberglass S30:
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The orange rustbucket keeps on giving. I still throw my vote in for patching the big horrible hole using the donor as a panel. Just seems to have the fewest possible scary issues involved. I remember the rust on the leading edge, are there any other issues? Looks like you trimmed it down, I thought I cut it longer.
Nope, I didn't do anything more to it other than start removing the headliner.
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did you get your gauge pod done?
No, it still looks like crap. I need to finish filling it in with foam and sand it down and paint it or something to make it look nice. Right now its just functional, and screws into the A pillar for mounting where the original plastic embellishment did. So many unfinished projects....
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Yes, I was thinking that maybe it could sit flush on the surface, rather than sliding in like on the two row (and if needed, possibly have my local machine shop cut a small lip for it to sit in). Oh well..
I've looked at some online places like Damper Doctor etc for rebuilds, but I'm not quite sure if it would be worth it. I suppose I'll sleep on it.
Thanks for the info though, maybe I'll grab one of your setups down the road if I can figure this out.
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Derek,
I know you've already stated that this setup is only for a 280z 2 row, but do you think it would work on my single row aftermarket damper? If so, I'm interested.
Here's a picture:
Its not terribly great as a reference point, but the balancer has 2 bolt holes that are the same size as the 280z damper (NOT the 280zx damper I have sitting next to it in the photo). I just miked the distance between them with some verniers and they're the same (about 4.8"). The only difference is that these are flush with the outer surface instead of inset because of the missing belt groove. The only other issue I see is that I'm using a Datsun comp bolt/washer setup to mount it. I COULD have gone with a BHJ or ATI damper, but that's an extra $500 I would rather not spend at the moment. I'd also rather not reuse my old stock 280z damper because the elastomer is cracked, and I'd rather not go through another damper failure. If I can get your system to work, it seems like it would be the most optimal choice.
Do you have any of these left?
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If you search for slide hammers on ebay, theres a great custom made one that some guy makes that threads into the back of vice grips. Comes in several sizes, and is relatively cheap (like $30-$40). Screw the appropriate size bolt into the main cap, lock the vice grips onto it and slam it out.
Unfortunately, I don't have one. I had to lever the cap out like the Datsun book says. I used a pickle fork and some pieces of wood to isolate it from the oil pan gasket surface while I levered the bearing cap out, constantly repositioning it to make sure it came out at the right angle. It was a pain.
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Have you checked all the rings or just the top ring?
Just a few of the top rings. All results were consistent. I was seeing if i could garnish any input based on the top rings first, because if I needed a new set because of excessive clearance checking the second rings and oil scrapers seemed like a moot point.
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If someone ever crammed a 3 or 4 rotor setup into a Z... That would be pretty sick. Especially if it was a built NA.
Although personally I don't think the sound fits a Z as well, it still screams like a banshee!
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Custom L6 intake manifold
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
NICE links, thanks! Its too bad that they discontinued their 1.625" stuff, since that's what the stock diameter is close to. I can always have it taper in slightly.