Oddmanout84

As stated in the title, I'd really like to keep my Nissan comp oil sump, but I don't have a damn thing that will clear the Nismo oil pan I've got. With my turbo setup this was easy since I fabbed everything after the turbine and nothing came close to it. With the (cheap) headers I've got now though, they rest on the pan before the 2-1 merge and prevent the headers from being bolted to the head. Just wondering what's available. Nissan comp is the only one I *know* will clear but hell, I'll take another header besides the Nissan Comp as long as it clears.

Yes, on a mostly street build it's probably not worth the effort. I've just been toying with the idea of removing them because I'm getting my first practice with this head. Wouldn't mind getting myself an MN47, N42, P79 etc later down the road for other builds, especially if I can do a high compression build like MonZter did on his L24.

The accelerator was a total pain in the ass to install, finding the best combo of angle, no rubbing, and straightness of holes to be drilled. Should have just welded in a flat plate to the curved pedal surface...

You know, I suspected as much, but I don't see that many "regular" Z N47 vs. MN47 pictures around. Still debating on whether to remove the exhaust liners or not. I'm not sure if this head is even worth the work I'm putting into it, but it's essentially practice for the future. I don't see it as a total waste in that respect. With any luck it'll work "decently" for my current NA budget build.

Guess I'm not the only one messing around with a 47 head "just cause" right now... Still a lot of work to do, only have a single carbide bit and my trusty dremel to work with.

Same model airdam, except it's for the 240z. Both are urethane Xenon airdam models.

Yup. Very easy, unless you consider cutting up the body of the car difficult/painful to do. Still need to weld the tabs on the bottom of mine.

So... not much has happened over the last year, and not much has been posted. There were a lot of reasons; money, life, Mass Effect 3, engagement... but mostly loss of interest. I got frustrated with how slowly things were progressing, how much extra was needed to get the car to go in the direction that I wanted. Because I can't sit still, I started a ton of new projects around the car while the engine was out/cold. These projects took a longer time than expected, and eventually overran the time that was allotted for the engine. I overwhelmed myself, and it all became too much. I still had no intention to sell it all away, but I needed to step back and take a break. So after this year of **** and driving my wheezy little putt-putt (Mazda 3), I'm back. I'm dividing my time a little more strictly now, but because of what was going on last year, I still have a lot of projects to finish besides the engine. The rear fenders still need the final stitching up, the gas tank still needs to get finished, the dash and interior still need fixing. And jesus christ, that f**king engine. The dash is shaping up nicely. It was covered in 40 years worth of dirt and mouse ****, and cracked to hell. I separated the metal frame from the foam and vinyl and got to work. First, the mounting for my Z is slightly different so I had to cut and weld in a new angled plate for the steering column area. Test fitting after test fitting ensued. A lot of it. Gauges temp installed and look ok. Glassed up the back of the vinyl to close up and hopefully prevent more cracks from forming. Then I foamed it up. Great stuff is awesome, but I still hate it. Also made some better provisions for the three center gauges. They will now mount directly to the dash itself rather than in modded Z gauge housings. Maybe something devious here. The seat got a test fit too. I swapped in various thicknesses and angles of wooden boards laying around the garage to get a fit that was both comfortable and didn't prevent the door from closing. Still need to fab those rails up out of metal. Also went through the b*tch and a half job of getting these somewhat hard to find Momo's onto my pedals. It should have been simple, but it wasn't. Beyond the brake and clutch, the dead pedal needed a better backing plate so I had to fab one up and weld it to the old one in the tightest spot ever. The accelerator pedal has an angle to it that DOES NOT LIKE to work with aftermarket pedals. Drilling holes in it was a b*tch, because I also needed to account for the angle and position of the pedal f**king with the floor and carpet. In the end, I still had to remove a ton of that obnoxious ass "joot" padding under the carpet so the pedal wouldn't bind up. That stupid little gas cap still needs to get welded in, but not before I fix the weird angle of the spout running to the tank and get it at least close to the stock angle. Still need to find a f**king fan and shroud that will fit this tight ass sandwich mess, while still pushing enough air. The engine is just about 100% plumbed, but it still needs an exhaust downpipe and intake tubing completed for it to breathe. Still trying to decide what route to take with that. Oil cooler is tapped in with a ridiculous amount of braided line to get the angles to work. Stupid gas tank. It's a spare, but it's going to be my main once I weld the sump on and line it with POR-15. For now, I'm still just trying to clean out decades of varnish and gasoline residue just so it doesn't explode in my face when I weld. And that leaves us with supersecret project Dirtf**k. I have this lovely little can of carb cleaner. Used parts from the 70's go into it, then they come out practically looking like they've never been used. But that's not really supersecret, is it? Pistons go in two by two... Maybe some day the truth will be revealed.

Thanks. Unfortunately it doesn't get me anywhere though. I've had the twice pipes before, and while they were fine for the time they were a bit unwieldy and wouldn't work out for my current application. The reason I'm looking for the TK5767 tips is that they have a 2 1/4" ID, a bit larger than the 1.5" of the twice pipes (if memory serves me right). Allows me to retain the 3" exhaust piping I fabricated from the engine back without a massive restriction at the end. I'm not sure if the twice pipes would retain the same sound if I bored out the glass packs, either.

I've been playing around with piecing together my exhaust for a while now, but every time I get to this portion I end up pulling hair out. I really, really like to look and sound of the ANSA slash cut resonated tips on the Z, and their website lists the exact part number that I want (TK5767). However, as they state on their website, ANSA does not sell to customers and you must buy their products through their distributors. The small list on their site is maddening to say the least, and navigating some of them leads to stupid menu systems that can only give you the part you want if you enter in the right vehicle (I usually order things on the internet so that I can AVOID the Autozone parts counter experience!!). The rest only carry certain product lines, and unless I'm somehow glossing over them the TK5767 isn't anywhere to be found. So, does anyone know of a good distributor? I think there is a member on the site that makes them into finished systems, but I'm more of the DIY type when I can help it, and in this case I'd imagine my inquiry to his source was met with understandable silence. If anyone else is willing to help though, it would be appreciated...

Damn. And I thought I had waited until the right time when I bought my Speedhut gauge set with the indicator lights in the speedo. Now they offer a fuel indication too? Sheeeeeiiit... Nice install.

Sorry, it's been a while... This may be a dumb/answered question, but since these axles are custom fabricated, does that mean you can buy either/or 300ZXT/NA CV assemblies? From what I recall from previous writeups, the reason NOT to get 300ZX NA CV's was because they were too long. It would be nice if this negated the need to be picky about which CV's to source, or are there other differences between the models and sides they're installed on...

Someone is getting dangerously close to my color scheme...

Yup. SEM or Transtar black trim rattlecan spray paint, can't remember which. Both brands are top quality and hold up on the surfaces reliably... provided you prep them correctly of course. Even the flat black bonnet is painted with the same stuff, and it went down evenly enough that it's hard to tell unless you're looking for it.

Currently on the Cape and still not running. Progress has been made, albeit minimal and sans photography.

I built one of these for myself out of 1/4" steel and some scrap from a steel supplier. Very easy, holds the engine with no problems. My engine stand is a cheapie three wheeler and is inherently unstable if you rock it the wrong way with the "normal" mounts used at the rear of the engine. This mounting gives it back some stability and I have yet to experience any problems, but I still recommend a four-wheeled stand.

Oh yeah, I did this a while ago. Took all the measurements from my Z and welded it (crudely, I might add) into a sim cockpit. It works rather well.

Oh, hai guys.

Maybe once my Z is un-broked. We'll see if that happens by next spring.

ITS A TRAP.

What I find funnier is that Jeremy Clarkson's intro and the commercial speak of the edging out of our petrol burning community by the economically minded and environmentalists with their hybrids and electric cars... yet there are hybrids and electric cars in the game...

Is it really? The few races I tried I was able to intimidate more than a few with some aggressive passing on the inside. Maybe I just haven't progressed enough. I haven't played much since I can't stand playing with a controller anymore, and have been in the middle of constructing a "cockpit" setup.

The 432 sounds great, but I switched the aspiration to forced induction and I have yet to hear any difference. The only clue I get is the slight puttering sound of a BOV when I let off the throttle, but no turbine whine at all. No unmistakable sound of compressed air slightly altering the engine note, either. Maybe my sound system just isn't up to snuff anymore. Also, changing the exhaust to an upgraded version results in it looking the same, yet when you switch the rear bumper on other cars, you get a different muffler with almost every one. Makes no sense at all.

Money Magazine recently had an article rating "the best" towns to live in the USA. Their system of rating was pretty decent, and took into account factors such as job opportunities, economy, rising or falling real estate prices etc. Can't remember where I put it but you should also be able to find it online. It's not personal experience, but since I can't recommend anywhere I've lived (Jacksonville NC, Pensacola FL, Wilton CT. All terrible choices from either quality or living expense) on the East Coast, the statistical analysis that Money did is worth checking out. http://money.cnn.com/magazines/moneymag/bplive/2011/ This is the general gist, but the actual magazine article was much more informative.