whitechocolatelove

ok so im megasquirting my 240z turbo and im using an 82 turbo dizzy. i just need to know if the b/w wire to a 12v+ needs to be to a key on source, a start source or maybe a constant source. on mobythevans writeup it says Dizzy Side<> Harness Side Red <>B/W 12v+ White<> G/B MS Trigger (to Pin 24 on DB37, or Relay Board TACH terminal) Green <>G/Y not used Black <>Black Ground i already know that the megasquirt trigger wire has to run a branch with a resistor to a key on 12v source. but i just cant find which type of 12v+ the b/w wire needs to run to. i dont want to try to wire it without knowing and risk screwing something up! thanks

bump

im looking for an 70-71 240z front bumper in nice condition. i dont have cash at the moment but heres a list of the things im willing to trade, please email me for pics 280zxt rear brake calipers and rotors good for a 240z conversion. 240z,260z,280z mesh aluminum wheels no dents needs polishing 72 240z gas tank needs cleaning no dents 240z interior plastics and vinyl used but in good shape 240z front brake calipers and rotors in working order also have a 280zxt 2+2 parts car minus the engine drivetrain and engine wiring harness email me at 72s30@live.com thank you cj

Dude!!!! can you sign into your photobucket account? its not showing the pictures you posted due to your account being innactive for 90 days. itd be much appreciated! thanks

any estimation on p and a?

im 20 and halfway bought my first z (81 zx na) for $300. the people got drunk and wouldnt let me have it and tried to cast a spell on my dad after he told the lady shed been rode more times than a public transit lol. after that i HAD to get another. so i found another 81 280zx na for $600 and tinkered with that for a year till i realized an early s30 was the logical way to go for a true sports car that was cheap and fun. so i found my 72 for $1500, rebuilt the l26 that was already in it, decided it wasnt enough, bought a turbo car, swapped it, didnt run right and didnt have anything else to drive, sold her, got depressed for 3 months after i realized what i did was stupid, bought her back, bought another turbo car and am in the process once again of transplanting the engine. now ive been able to take my time with her and actually put her together with a lot more care so hopefully shell come out with a lot better results.

im getting my old 240 back and i need a transmission. i dont care if its a 4spd or a 5spd i would just like to find a trans with no grinds and all working gears. please let me know what you have and how much. thank you cj 72s30@live.com 209-256-1047

doing this swap does seem pretty intimidating at first but it really is a walk in the park. just start by attatching the harness' to the engine and work your way to the loose ends.

nice car but a little too far for me to drive. thanks anyway!

missing my project and cant stand it any longer!!! im looking for a rolling shell 240z with title for another turbo swap. also looking for 280zx turbo that at least runs. please send me some offers and pics! thanks!!! cj 209-256-1047 72s30@live.com

well ive tried replacing everything i could. literally! and it seemed to be the injectors that fixed it for a little bit and then it leaned out again (both sets of injectors that ive installed so far had the same results). someboday on zcar told me its probably varnish in my gas tank causing the problem since it can make it through the filters and is the reason i didnt have a problem with carbs except having to clean the float bowls all the tim! which makes sense because i tried some of the stp injector cleaner and it didnt cure the problem but it sure helped! so i bought a gallon of acetone and im going to drop the tank, throw in some marbles and the acetone and clean away!

so 70-72 240 tachs wont work with switching those wires?

ive got a 280zx turbo motor with some running issues. but one thing i noticed is that when i pull the oil cap while its running it actually idles a lil better most of the time if not the same. i checked the pcv valve and it has full movement with no problems. i know the na models are suposed to die with it off but what about turbo models?

well i pulled the plugs and they are sooty and it likes to backfire a bit. i just checked them and theyre at .035" . wouldnt that cause spark blow out?

i know i should have done that but the only reason why i havent flow tested the injectors yet is because im running really rich. but i went out and checked my afm boots again and sure enough the one between the turbo and afm was loose! started her up and there was a pretty big difference but i saw that the number 5 plug was sparkin on the outside! i replaced the wire and nothing happened. checked under the dizzy cap, and the electrodes (i guess youd call em) werent looking too great. so i think before i have the injectors tested im going to do a full tune up and see where that gets me. and yes i know i should have in the first place.

yeah its 40-42 at wot under load and doesnt change when the engine cuts out. it does it sometimes while taking off and starts to around maybe 2500 and gets real bad by 4k. it seems to do that no matter what the boost level is. i bought injectors from a member on here and i regret that i did because the pintle caps (and they were large brown caps like the turbo injectors and the tips were about the same size as the caps.) were cracked and they were covered in dirt. i didnt have them flow tested but the spray pattern looked pretty good. and yes this is a factory efi setup.

well i didnt check the volume today. i guess thats kind of manadatory in determining whether or not im getting the right amount of fuel. at idle im at about 36 psi and under load its about 40-42. i got an intake backfire a couple of times so i went to adjust the timing and it was at 8 degrees! so i adjusted the tvs and then adjusted my timing but it wouldnt budge from 24 degrees. took it for a spin and the only difference is that is pops and backfires more. im thinking the afm is messed up.

in the thread that shows how to do the alternator jumper the harness theyre using has different wires so ive gotta find out which is which and what to switch. haha that rhymed. anyhow i realized that im using the stock 240z return line! oops! that would cause excessive pressure to be held back and increase my fuel pressure. and ive drove it more and now know its running extremly rich with a fp average of about 8 psi over normal! i pulled the plugs and sure enough black soot. turns out the gauge is reading lean because it is running so rich. so im gonna head out and buy some fuel line and see if that fixes the problem.

well how about this? my idle fuel pressure is 39 psi and raises at when you get on it . it acts like it hits a "fuel cut" around 4k but also backfires. the a/f ratio gauge reads VERY lean (sometimes so lean it doesnt read) even though it has too much fuel pressure which i hear when you run VERY rich it does that. i checked my plugs and sure enough there is soot building up. well i checked my lines and sure enough im using the STOCK return line for the 240. i think thats whats causing my headaches. what do you guys think?

i have a 240z turbo swapped with stock everything and im having the same problem. did you happen to fix it?

did you happen to figure it out? im having the SAME problem with my 240z turbo swap.

oh update! i realized that i dont have the jumper wires hooked up for the 280zx alternator upgrade. could that cause the problems im having?

ok so i replaced the fuel filter again, ran some injector cleaner, checked the timing, checked the afm and checked for vacuum leaks and i found nothing. the only thing i noticed is that the fuel pressure at idle is about 38psi and when i open the throttle it actually drops. i tried using another one i have and nothin happened. the last thing i can think of is maybe the fuel pump. and i dont know if this could cause it but i have the 240 tach still hooked up even though its the wrong type. oh and i have the hot wire from the 240 harness hooked to the + post on the coil. could this outside power source confuse the computer?

so ive had this thing finished for some time now but i cant pinpoint why its running weird. if you stomp on the pedal to rev it, it will just start to choke and sputter. it will pull hard up to about 4k but then it cuts out. my a/f gauge says its running really lean. the injectors appear to spray good, the fuel pump puts out 30 psi, the green light on the ecu comes on when the key is one and ive replaced the 02 sensor and the tps. does anybody have any advice?? its desperately needed and i dont have anything else to drive!!! lol