cygnusx1
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Posts posted by cygnusx1
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I did similar work at the beginning of my career, restoring, reverse engineering, and duplicating, antique automated manufacturing and assembly equipment. The advent of digitizers changed the field dramatically. We did a lot of geometry and algebra to find coordinates back then. It is really fun, getting that intimate with designs done by genius engineers. Cool link. Thanks.
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1) Order the full overhaul kit from www.rpmrons.com or a place of your choice. Measure the bores to confirm their diameter and get the piston set that is at least 0.010" oversize, when you place the order.
2) Drop the block, pistons, rings, rods off at a reputable engine shop.
3) Have the shop perform the usual block treatments, hand fit the pistons to the block. Also have them gap the rings for you, and press in the wrist pins. Maybe they can also put in the new core plugs for you. (about $400)
4) Bring the crank and cam with you to get a pro opinion on it's condition, or source good used ones.
5) That motor had low miles if I recall. The hydraulic posts should be fine. Just disassemble, and clean them out (look for my thread).
6) Assembly is the reverse of removal (no hammers needed)...except for the core plugs.
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I wish someone would find my LD28. It went missing when they stole my Deeezel Maxiwagon many moons ago.
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Doesn't #6 feed the brake booster? Maybe that's a hint.
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Didn't you hear about the blonde that burned her lips on the tailpipe while trying to blow up a bus.... lol
Good idea KTM but doesn't the air go up and out any intake valves that may be open instead of building pressure...or does the TB being shut prevent that?
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I used high grade studs and bolts frrom McMaster. There are six on each side. They have a HUGE safety factor. You can use a nylock nut, or just some locktite. It's not THAT critical.
SEE HERE:
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I could swear I was post #2 in this thread.....where did it go? Oh musta been at classiczcar....lol
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I do have to admit one thing, it photographs well.
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hahahahahah.
"The Z Car is predominantly owned and modified by "old guys" with little or no taste." -from the Super Street article linked above.
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Ah, then I am the one that helped EvilC pull the motor out.
I bought a turbo rebuild kit for $60 or so dollars, and the full engine rebuild kit for $550.
Check out www.rpmrons.com if you want a stock engine rebuild. He makes a nice complete kit with, quality, OEM level parts.
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I am already setup with EDIS but if this was available back then, I would have used it. I don't see any reason NOT to make these. Good idea DIY.
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Are you aware of the CTZCC? Just asking. It's a great Z club in CT.
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So if you need an officer, commit a crime. Ther ya go.
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Case in point. Due to the recent storm, a local traffic light was out. It's a busy four way intersection. For four days, there was not a soul directing traffic through the intersection. Two of those four days, a sheriff sat in his patrol car, not an 1/8th of a mile away, on that same road, hidden in the bushes, shooting radar.
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The only things keeping us here are family, and earned job security.
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The problem is that this happened two months before Winter. Trees around here are not ready for a foot of wet snow in October. Nature's tree pruning services. I suppose we are good for another 20-30 years now.
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Sure, I'll live at your place all Winter and you can stay here.
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We just got our power back since Saturday around 3pm., in what I would consider record time, considering the damage in the area.
My front yard.
Took a little tour early in the AM after the wrath. Pics here.
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My buddy did the same thing to my trans about 15 years ago. The trans lasted about a year after that. Reverse idler lost some chunks, that eventually got into the bearings, and also the main input and counter gears. I had to pull it and rebuild it. If you are lucky, you might catch most of it on the drain plug magnet. Change the fluid as soon as you can. You might want to add a strong magnet to the outside of the case as added insurance. The more chunks you catch, the less damage they can do.
You could feel the damage when using the reverse gear.
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Looks like a cross between the 2000GT and the S30. Thumbs up.
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You have my kind of luck Madkaw.
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Why not cut and relocate the strut towers in the engine bay? With a welder handy it can't be that hard to do.
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I am not doing the conversion but I thought this might be a good way to do it if one needed to modernize. If I remember correctly, there are 1/2" foam/rubber blocks that keep the tank from touching the body. You might double the thickness of those pads to about 1" or so to make room for the fittings. I think the filler neck will still reach the filler tube.
The application would be for making a 240Z or 260Z tank into a "fuel injection" tank, or giving the 280Z tank better surge capacity.
1982 L28ET Rebuild
in S130 Series - 280ZX
Posted · Edited by cygnusx1
With a proper surface prep and proper tune for 300hp. Any decent head gasket will do very well. Fel-Pro, Nissan,....whatever, really. The one that comes with the master engine rebuild kits is fine too. Use ARP stuff to put the motor back together. Might as well.