cygnusx1
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Posts posted by cygnusx1
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I ruled out the EDIS Module, ruled out wiring by tracing from connector to connector, performed a visual inspection of the solder joints in MSII, and found nothing obvious. I am going to re-assemble and test if the rain ever ends around here. If it still does not work, then the problem has to be due to a bad component inside MSII.
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Interested in silver/polished Sportmax 002's, 16x8, 0-offset? Mounted and driven about 2 times. They fit your budget, I can put you in touch with the guy that owns them, a friend of mine.
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The owner of the 77 was making a 1/2" extension ring in aluminum, for the 77 fan/clutch to clear the A/C clutch without having to cut the backs of the blades. When I put the 82 fan assembly in we realized he didn't need the ring. I will see if he has the ring available, if you choose that route.
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I just removed a hacked up 280Z fan from a 77 and replaced it with an 82 fan. There is at least 3/4" difference between the two. The 82 fan is further forward. The 77 fan blades had all been cut on the backsides to clear for an aftermarket AC clutch.
FWIW, I installed a 3-row Champion alum rad, the 82 fan and clutch, and the 77 shroud, into a 77 S30. I had to raise the shroud AND the radiator to get the fan to center in the shroud. I may also have access to a 1/2" fan extension ring. I think I even have the longer studs you would need.
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Definitely can do that. First thing I am going to do is order a new Ford magnetic pickup. They are cheap. Then I will go along and trace the EDIS wires, and the PIP/SAW wires to the MS box just to make sure. If that doesn't solve it, then it's time to dig into the MS box. I have no clue where to look for EDIS control problems, I am FAR from an electronics geek. I may try Clive's box, or send mine back to DIY Autotune for a massage.
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Swapped in a new EDIS unit and same thing. Uploaded older MSQ's and same thing. I took a datalog, but MS shows the normal timing activity, advancing on the maps. The timing light shows a different story; just a spark at TDC no matter what. Seems like EDIS6 limp mode a bit. I am not sure exactly where I set the base timing for EDIS when I mounted my trigger pick-up, but it was around 6deg advanced. To corroborate this, my Trigger Wizard was always set to -6.0 to get the timing light to match the MS display. So somehow, MS has lost control of timing and it is stuck at around 0-TDC (says the timing mark on the pulley)? Yes the old pulley may have slipped a few degrees, but timing won't react to RPM or map changes. Can't blame that on the pulley.
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UPDATE:
Idle vacuum is around 14inHG and used to be 20inHG. Compression test is all around 140psi. Timing light shows ZERO ?! I tried tweaking the MSII timing maps and the trigger wizard. No matter what I do, the timing does NOT move from ZERO. Even when I rev the motor it sits at ZERO on the timing light.
EDIS6 gone bad, wiring gone bad, or MSII gone bad?
Good news is that I think it's not the engine. Bad news is, what is it?
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My turbo Z was running great two days ago when I parked it. I had just giving it a hard drive. Then I came home, let it idle for cooldown, and parked it. Yesterday I went to to take it out, and it was sputtering lightly down the road. It made 10psi boost but only gave me about 50% of it's normal power. The turbo seemed to be fluttering a lot which it usually does not do. It had occasional pops in the intake. It still idles fine. The AFR's were dead on.
I am thinking I either blew another head gasket, skipped the timing chain, or spun the crank damper. It runs MSII and EDIS6 with a tooth wheel on the damper outer ring. I will get down to diagnostics after this extremely busy weekend.
1500 miles on the engine rebuild. -
I kind of figured that the relay might "ride-over" the module's control method, by just remaining latched. I will check the voltages. I will also trace pin 16 on the wiring diagrams, and may go that route as well. No real need to modulate a pump, on a car that will see very little use anyhow. Thanks!!
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So I have the swap complete and the engine running well. 1982 L28ET into a 1977 280Z. The fuel pump module from the ZX is something I wanted to try to retain. However, the 77 fuel pumps are +12v controlled and the ZXT control module is designed to switch on the negative lead. To avoid re-wiring the fuel pump, I used the ZXT Module, to ground a control relay, which inturn, sends +12v to the fuel pump. In theory, it should work, and it seems to. However, there is no actual modulation of the fuel pump anymore, as expected. What I did not expect is that the fuel pump simply turns on with the key, and stays on. It does't prime and then stop like it should. It also does not shut off if the motor stalls. This is not what I intended. I know I can simply re-wire the fuel pump with sheilded pair and give the ground wire to the Control Module and it should work just like in the ZX. But WHY is the module not priming the pump and acting like a safety shut-off if the engine is not running?
Is it because it is not seeing the fuel pump current and is only seeing the control side of the relay I installed?
Electrical wizards might understand.
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Did someone say O'hare?
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The ZAP swap I'm currently trying to fire up. Almost there!
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Only 3 days with no grid. Not too bad. Generator kept the pumps running and no trees fell on any of us, or our things. No phone service, cell or land, kinda sucked.
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Area clear. You should be clear now.
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FWIW, I get better throttle tip-in with Alternating. I also get the best results from 80% Map and 20% TPS AE.
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Alternating, 2-squirts?
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High Idle, search for BCDD. It can be tweaked.
Fuel cut on decel, is built into the electronics of the ECU. It can have a lobotomy if you are good with electronics. Look for a thread on here about the factory fuel injection, started by BRAAP I think.
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Definitely give it a shot. !!careful!! with the test drive though. Keep us in the loop.
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David, if you do happen to come through on Sunday, do us a favor and check the pressure in the eye of the Hurricane as you fly through.
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Coming from Ireland on Sunday? How does a bus from O'hare sound?
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I am spending tomorrow, tying down all my stuff, relocating my cars to a safer place, and trying to find a spot in my home where we are less vulnerable to the surrounding 90 foot oak trees.
The storm's eye is tracking almost directly over us for Sunday. -
As far as I have heard, ITM is at least as good as the OEM stuff.
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http://www.rpmrons.com/ ITM stuff.
Get it all in one neat package for a good price...plus solid advice from Ron. His web page is full of valuable info too.
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Why use 13" long head bolts??? Just bolt the chain links right to the deck with some 1.5" short hex bolts and a few washers.
1500 miles on the engine rebuild.
The storm's eye is tracking almost directly over us for Sunday.
Fried Transistor...
in Ignition and Electrical
Posted · Edited by cygnusx1
So I got the L28ET urbo swap running well in the '77. I spent a good part of the day wrapping up harnesses, routing and tucking wires. I buttoned up the electrical portion of the job and decided to check the running voltage at the coil transistor as a final measure. With the car running, I probed the positive lead and measured 13.4 volts, and just then, my butterfingers took over. The probe of my multimeter slipped from the post and jabbed the across to the other post on the transistor. The car instantly shut down and won't spark anymore. I assume I fried the transistor. I still get ign+ 12volts to the transistor, but no life from the coil and no tach signal anymore. The injectors might still be firing, I think.... The ECU still turns on and I tried another ECU just in case, but it made no difference.
By jumping 12v to the other post on the transistor, would my "fried transistor" guess be correct?