S130Z
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Posts posted by S130Z
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There should be a threaded rod that comes through the fireware and bolts connects to the pedal. You can adjust this to make up for slack in the pedal.
As far as bleeding goes, just have one person pump the pedal a bit and hold it down on the floor while another person cracks the bleeder on the slave cylinder. Make sure you tighten the bleeder screw before he lets back off the pedal(this keeps air from getting back in the system). Repeat this proccess untill the pedal feels nice and firm and comes all the way back up on its own.
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Try bleeding the system. If the pedal is not all the way up then you possibly have air in the line. I know when I pulled my motor and put it back in, I got a ton of air in the system some how. You may also have to adjust your master cylinder at the pedal.
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I was watching Blue Collar Comedy Tour the other night and noticed a ZX. The ZX was at the end when everyone is on stage and they are going through potentialy embarrassing photos. They show a pitcure of Jeff Foxworthy laying ontop of a dark colored ZX.
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That would be a ZX n/a dizzy. The turbo model has no vacuum advace.
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Hey guys! got back from the ladie's house around 12, made myself a drink and started tearing* down the bottom end. Its about 2am now and have all the piston assemblies out. AND GUESS WHAT!!!!! The back three cylinders all have shattered ring lands! Good think new pistons came in the mail today. From what I could tell from the cylinders, they all look fine.
I will get my new pistons pressed on tomorrow, hone the cylinders and start putting everything back together. Ill keep everyone updated on how it goes.
Oh, I also need to rewire MS, so maybe this weekend she will be done!
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You can tig more then aluminum. As for the bolt on part, what would stop you from just running a long stud, that would go through the adapter?
Running a long stud through was something I had thought about. My only problem was when trying to remove the studs, I snapped them off instead of removing them.
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The bolt on adapters, you can buy off of ebay, the other one, I believe is custom. (I'm fairly sure you have to tig aluminum)
Those "bolt on" adapters don't really "bolt on". You have to grind out the threads from the manifold side, then have the adapter welded to the manifold. This is because there is not enough clearence on the WG side(by the flange) to get a nut on the stud.
Hoov, what peice of aluminum are you talking about? I was fairly sure aluminum was a no no for turbo manifolds
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That one is for Yasin.
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Looks great man! Glad you got them and have started playing around with them. Plans look great by the way.
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I have been thinking about some of the compounds in exhaust. I know that H20 is a by product under certain cercumstances. Is it possible that the blow by from bad rings/lands could alow the water vapor to condesnse into the catch can? I also noticed the water wasn't exactly the original color of coolant, so could the oil mixing with the water give it a greenish hue? I know this is far fetched, but it's the only thing that came into my head as I sleeped.
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Thats what i was thinking. But also I do not understand how you collected 10 oz in that short period of time. I am thinking you need to dye test the head for cracks.
Well I went back and looked at the can. It ends up it's a 16oz can(I thought it was a little over 20oz). So now I would say there was maybe 6-8oz of water in it. But that is still WAY too much. I will also have to get it tested for cracks when I take my rod assemblies to the machine shop to get new pistons pressed on.
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It was just streight coolant. It's almost like it is was vapor and then condenced back into coolant. There was just a tad bit of what looked to be oil and coolant sludge at the bottom, but not much.
The catch can line is streight off the valve cover.
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I have pulled the dip stiick before, and after letting the car run. There have been no signs of water in the oil. I am going to drain it tomorrow and make sure.
I have had the catch can on the car for a week, and it was the first time I draind it.
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Hey everyone!
I'll start this off with my setup. I'm running the stock turbo motor in my ZX that I recently rebuilt 1800 miles ago. I have minor head work done and I also have a GT3063. I'm also running MS-II is this makes a diffenece.
I recently had a problem after an encounter with a Mach 1 on the highway. I was running some pretty high AFR's at about 15psi. After I pulled over from my victory, I noticed I had quite a bit of positive crankcase pressure. I made myself a catch can to help with the positive pressure so I could drive it without puning oil off the exhaust.(I had not realized I may have damaged the motor at this time) After realizing the car smoked under boost, I decided to run the usual checks on the PCV valve and ran a compression test. The back 3 cylinders were 100, 90, and 115(the front three were all at 155). The irregular numbers had me cross off the head gasket as a suspect.
At this point I figured my rings or ring lands are bad, so my plan was to pull the motor and check for any possible cylinder damage before ordering pistons.
This is wat is confusing the hell out of me. I pulled off my homemade catch can, which ended up having about 10 oz. of fluid in it. I proceeded to drain it expecting oil to come out, but no, it was coolant. It wasn't as green as coolant starts off as, but I could tell and smell it was coolant.
So I then decided to pull the head off befor I pull the entire motor as I was running out of day light. To my surprise, the head gasket looked brand new, the pistons showed no sings of burning water, the cylinders were clean and the combustion chambers looked normal. I continued to check the head for cracks, but found none. In the morning I will look over everything again with more day light to spot a potential problem.
Anyone have any thought of why there would be greenish water in my catchcan? I just dont know what to think about this.
Thanks for any input you may have!
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it is loosing the ign signal like i thought earlier. just checked the new log. the duty cycle and rpm both hit 0 together at the same exact time and afr was 11.4 when it did it and timing was 21.9 at 176kpa and was at 4k rpm. so something is up for sure. idk what is going on with it. it happens at a higher rpm and boost now. so idk why adjusting the maps would change this. anyone got any tips. i need to lean the fuel back out now but i need to get this ign signal issue fixed first. the log and msq are here
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?f=89&t=35557&p=215674#p215674
im wondering if the issue i was having back in feb with this hapeneing at 5600 rpm was the same issue, just loosing the rpm sig.
If you are running on pump gas, 11.5~ is where you want to stay. Leaning it out to 12.5~ can be pretty dangerous. I just fudged up my back 3 cylinders running those AFR's.
Double check all your grounds too if you are still getting resets. I recently had a reset problem due to a bad ground clamp on my battery.
Good luck!
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Ok this is the car I bought December 23rd at sacramento I just happen to find the pictures on myspace from the old owner before and after pics, the last 3 pics is how I bought it & as you see on my first post I got the hood and the air dam off this car on mine now.
That thing is SICK! What suspension is on that, if I might ask.
Oh, btw I blew up the turbo motor after about 1 month of driving it
. I'm gonna try and rebuild it this weekend. Wish me luck! -
Great job man! This makes me wonder what my EFI setup is doing on 15psi! One question for you, what octane fuel are you running? I ask because 12.4 is a bit lean for pump gas(depending on your timing curve).
Congrats!
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Well I got some solid compression test numbers with a good battery- (radiator side) #1 - 155 psi #2 - 155 psi #3 - 155 psi #4 - 115 psi #5 - 90 psi #6 - 100 psi
Tearing it down this weekend to check out the damage and do what needs to be done.
Wish me luck!
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Sorry to hear about your week I hope things get better! You're in my prayers buddy.
Thanks man. It can only get so bad until it can get better, so i figure I'm pretty close to seeing better days.
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Moby, I know to always plan for the worst, but I've had a the worst week of my life and I'm trying to chear myself up the best I can. Between the love of my life leaving me, my motor going up in smoke, and my company cutting back hours(luckly I havnt lost my job)....I guess I'm really just looking for a pic me up.
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Loss of compression, higher KPA at idle, lower engine idle, pressurized crank case at idle, burning oil and failure to gap the rings correctly. It pretty much all points to the rings.
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Found some!
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Hey guys,
I'm looking for a set of L28ET piston rings for OEM pistons(stock bore). If you have a new set, I need them! MSA says there is a 3 week shipping time and I need them now!
Thanks,
Adam Silver
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How do you know the rings are toast? I was running over 22 psi on a stock block.
Well I had a solid pull through both 4th and 5th on the highway(killed that Mach 1) and my AFR's were about 12.8 at full boost. I should have been paying attention to my AFR's. My tune was not dialed in. I have excessice crank case preasure with a good functioning PCV and I am now smoking out the exhaust, blue smoke. Not to mention the loss of compression.
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. I'm gonna try and rebuild it this weekend. Wish me luck!
I hope things get better! You're in my prayers buddy.
Rear main seal installation
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Is the end of your crankshaft the same diameter from the flywheel side all the way to the journal? I thought when I pulled my flex plate off there were 2 spacers on my auto tranny setup, but I could be wrong. I had to knock the spacer off with a hammer. But my rear main seal went on nice and easy with some assembly lube.
Where did you get the seal from?