S130Z
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Posts posted by S130Z
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Thanks for all the info guys! I have been thinking about what feild I want to go in, and the two that I have given most attention to have been either cargo or corporate. I figured a four year degree would likely be a plus, but I am a fast paced person and 4 years of desk work just doesnt seem to appealing to me. Regardless, I will figure it out and I just want to have a fun career that I am interested in.
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Put that on a Dyno Dynamics dyno or a Dynomite Dyno and see what the numbers come out to. My turbo ZX layed down 40 more hp and 50 ft/tq more on a DynoJet than it did on a Dynomite chassis dyno.
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You stated bringing your gap down to .038 lessened your missfires. I gap my plugs on my turbo motor at .028. Close your gap a bit more and see if it helps out.
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Hey guys! So I recently decided to become a pilot. I am going to take private lessons to get my Private License and then work towards a commercial licence. At this moment I am searching around for recomended instructors and a good price.
Anyone here know of a fair rate to pay for lessons? The closest instructor to my house is giving an average cost of $9800 for about 60 hours? The plane I would be flying is a Cessna 172 and the company is Eagle Aviation in Columbia, SC.
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Isky aslo carries nissan L6 blank camshafts to grind to any spec you want.
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3 IN. Will definatly be better than the 2.5". If you factor in the length of piping and number of bends that create back preasure in the system, the 3" piping becomes superiour. It will also become beneficial once the boost bug bites you and the urge for more power becomes harder to resist
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I am running the 3.90 in my Turbo setup and hate it. I have a larger than stock turbo and I can never get over 10psi in 1st gear. It's also my DD and I drive mainly on the highway(3.90 is terrible for the highway). I will soon be going to a 3.54 as the 3.90 is WAY too short. Also, if your using the stock turbo cam, the 3.90 tends to keep your RPMS above the power band.
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What happens when you break a ring and damage the cylinder? Bring it to the local machine shop and stick it in the oval bore machine? Oversized pistons.....I think not!
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Edit: Sorry, still getting the hang of the new layout, didnt realize there was more than one page.
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Take into consideration that the vacuum advance is only engaged under light throttle, when there is a good vacuum being applied. When under WOT the vacuum advance is not giving the additional 18 degrees.
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Yeah, if I remember correctly, they are called injector holders. Also, it may be a good time to replace the injector o-rings. I know Advance Autoparts should be able to get the o-ring kit.
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Go to advance autoparts. Thats where I got mine from. Also, you can find them pretty cheap on eBay.
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When you pull the front timing cover, I would recomend replacing the two gaskets for that cover. Also, It makes the job a bit easier if you loosen the bolts to the oil pan to allow a bit of clearence when you reinstall the front cover. I believe the crank bolt is a 27mm, but dont hold me to that number.
The two dots on the chain should line up with the dots on the cam sproket and crank sproket at the same time. Both dots should be on the right hand side if you are facing the cam chain.(tried finding a pic, but could'nt)
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I had those injectors on my turbo motor. I sold them to another member here when I upgraded my setup. He said they are working great for him.
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Go to autoZone and have them test your alternater. Your guage reading 14v when the car is on may be saying the alternater is putting out the correct volts. But if the alt is not putting out enough amps, then your battery may not be getting a decent charge.
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I've got a turbo manifold. Not to sure on how to ship to Sweden, buit I can try and find a price for you. Can you email me a shipping address and what you would be willing to pay? My email is adamsilver1984@hotmail.com
Thanks,
Adam Silver
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still looking?
Yup! You can email me at adamsilver1984@hotmail.com with more details.
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Here is my dyno graph. Sorry it is so blurry, but torque is 350.4ft/lbs and hp is 290.0hp. This was on 15 psi on a stock rebuilt long block running MS-II and a GT30 .63a/r turbine and .70a/r compressor w/ stage 3 wheels.
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Wish I had seen this before I sent you a PM. By the way, I am running a Failpro head gasket on 15psi with ARP head bolts. Tomorrow I will try and scan my dyno sheet and post it up, numbers were 290hp and 350.4 ftlbs/tq.(I had one run at 297 hp with a few ft/lbs of torque less) What type of Dyno did you run on?
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Well I just dyno'd my L28ET with MS-II and I layed down 297hp and 350.4 ft/tq at 15psi. I was running about 21.2 deg. timing at 15psi. I started loosing power as I increased the timing.
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You have to have 40 technical posts. Posting in the non tech threads do not add to you post count under your avatar.
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Post a pic of your datalog at idle with AccelEnrich in view. TPSdot and MAPdot shows your TPS/ms and MAP/ms fluctuations.
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Well I am infront of a computer at work for 8 hours a day. So I would say I am on HBZ for a good 9 hours a day.
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You need to fix your voltage problem first. Other than that, it does apear like you have a communication problem. I get resets from time to time, and in my logs I get similar spikes across the board.
72 240z, 15/16" master, car nose dives when braking
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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Nose dives typically mean that your front struts have gone bad. I would suggest starting there by replacing your struts and see if this fixes your problem.