manninen

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fg_g0yjzJD8 Noticed Team Boosted is swapping OM606 as well, and comments say some guy has swapped as well. i hope that OM648 rear sump fits, my dry sump has half the height of that thing and clearence is very small.

I get the point 3pc rims, my rims above are 3pc. Not 100% true wheels, maybe one outer and 2 inner parts need to be changed. Oh yea, new wobbly rims from uk. Luckily tyres are about the same so shop with roadforce balancing machine did great job. Never ever gonna buy 3pc wheels

I´ve had bit problem with wheels balancing. POS british custom rims which aint straight and tyres which seems to be as bad patch... Oh well, took my wheels to local shop who has road force machine. They did their thing and got all wheels under 6kg road force unit, i dont know is it low number or not but now i can drive over 85km/h. early this week did some trip, car does easily 750-800km between fuel fill-up

Me too, maybe swaybar tab looks flimsy and why do they include such pin bolt where eyelet is under threaded part, 290mm bolt should to better job

I have these. I think you guys are on right track, desing aint best. My use is so light i think they will last. im not biggest fan cause those threaded parts are heaviest parts of this control arm and they add unsprung mass. weights 500grams more than stock control arm

I believe that these bars made some difference, even with rear bar some noises had changes. changed factory rear arms back, car is now road legal for 2 years. rear toe changed from +2.5mm back to +4mm, car is much stable. but felt kind of better with +2.5mm toe. ABS light stays on, abs works with no error codes so im gonna reverse light using changeover relay, cant say whats going on.

yes there is now rear swaybar too, car controls much better with that. when it looses grip on straight line it does it more predictable way, with out it´s a handful. slightly shortened 18mm front to strut might be good, but 18 and 20mm are bit different shape, 18mm is so close to alternator i dont want to use it

Okay, now driven on both setups i can tell this mod is way stiffer than original. For normal winding roads, brisk thru roundabouts normal setup is more balanced for my use, but on highway driving faster stiffer feels bit safer. Wet auto-x track would be fun to test on both, i think stiffer would understeer a lot.

Been driving now some. Added caster stiffened up steering feel but seems it follows these finnish inclined roads more. I have to swap stock swaybar links whats the difference with those. Went better direction with modern seatbelts and powerful brake booster

Did not pass MOT cause rear control arms, welded swaybar links were ok. But i have working ABS

Yeah you´re right, looses grip before anything breaks. Motor mounts are well engineered

Body twister, something is gonna break.

I use noise cancelling bose headphones on longer trips. Lightweight and best sound for car

2+2 http://www.speedhunters.com/2015/08/1000hp-of-datsun-fury/ This is nice build 2+2.

I can´t stand car not being driveable and i need clean to my garage anyway. being still one arm man all i could do is to assemble old rear axle parts together. Car is on it´s wheels tomorrow. More upgrades maybe next winter Wonder if i have working abs