BLKMGK

Hrm, no luck on the mods. I vaguely recall what they were and may just play a bit - hope I don't fry anything

yup, look for rust Check the battery tray area in particular. If the framerails have been repaired examine them closely. Look at where the swaybar is mounted too - is there rust? Feel along th ebottom edge of the doors fro bubbling, check the window moulding for a good seal too - without it rain comes in and it rusts from the inside out once th etiny drains fill up. Check the cowl - any leaves or debris? In the front wheel well there's a tiny little mudflap looking thing towards the backedge inside the well - flip it back some and see if that drain is clogged up. Feel up inside the front fender where it meets the body - there SHOULD be a rubber seal up there, if not leaves and debris get in there and have a rust party. Look at the floors, look at the rockers - tap on them looking for Bondo. check the rubber seals - especially the hatch seal as it'll leak exhaust into the car. Now then - having bought myself a 240Z and having examined a friend's 260Z.... I think I liek the 260Z interior better from a stereo kind of standpoint. It's easier to mount on in there and the console looks a bit nicer IMO. 260's are also not as "desireable" to some folks so the price may be less. Do consider emissions laws when choosing a year though just in case

Parts are already appearing for it too including valve covers and headers if memory serves. One of the mags I get had a picture on the cover of it all dolled up not long ago and parts for it have been featured in several of th e"new parts" sections. Not sure it'll swap in real easily but it's worth considering if you're not in a big hurry

Didn't mean that you remove anything from the helical gears but from the more rough looking things that are on th efaces of those gears. I can see it in my mind's eye but I'll be damned if I can explain it better! some of the Mustang mag's have detailed how it works but digging through MY collection for that one article could take weeks!

Michael - when my rollbar was first put in it too sat just below the dome light. 'Cept I AM 6ft 2 and with the bar in that position it ended up with my head being ABOVE the darned bar! My rear vision sucked too. I took it back to the shop and had them move it forward an inch or two and raise it in front of that plastic trim. I'm now below the bar and can put my seat back far enough to drive with no problems. I think my bar is mounted on the rear wheel tubs - can take pics when I get it back to show. Oh yeah - the side bars that ran along the roof were also a bit low on the first attempt as they had to slope down from the front to hit the top of the bar in it's previous position. Wasn't too cool and I was most happy that I wasn't charged for moving the bar. Us tall folks have all sorts of fun in these little cars I'm afraid. I'm sitting on a Recaro seat whose mount is bolted to the stock seat mounts. Width is also an issue as I've got sidebars too that are a hassle to slip over. Will save my ass hopefully if I ever get T-boned so I'm willing to put up with it...

Hrm, guess I shoudl take my opwn advice an dhookup the hose on the L6 that's in the car now huh?

I've got a set of those MSA Spicer U-Joints if anyone wants them. Oh, did I mention they're drilled for grease fittings? I think I'll be looking for a set of Neapco solid joints for my car thanks...

Pete, you hit it pretty close. The Tremec's I've seen setup for this had what I think was the dog gear (?) with every other tooth missing. A bunch of welding done in there as well to reinforce things. Not for the street as even part throttle shifts will snap your neck....

Bob Hanlon does a similiar conversion with straight cut gears to the T5. He also says it's a no-go on a street car as it'll shift if you so much as sneeze on the shifter. He does work to the faces of th egears to do this and has to do a bit of welding as well as remove every other tooth on the synchros (if memory serves). He races what he sells and wins quite a bit, he also does custom work on the Tremec transmissions but I'm not sure he's fooled with the T56 yet. He stripped and diagnosed my Tremec 5speed in nothing flat - it was amazing to watch. If you are looking to beef a T5 and these guys are too expensive consider giving Bob a call. I ASSume he works on GM T5s as well as he does Ford T5s and he could probably trick out a Nissan spec T5 too. I've posted his URL he before and am too lazy to look it up but if you need it lemme' know and I'll dig up a Ford rag. He really impressed me! (shrug)

Just curious Mike - why no vacuum advance? I'd think that would help part throttle cruise - is the vacuuum that low?

It does indeed "rise" at the back of th ehood and you WILL get a cowl effect from it - most of the reason I got it was to remove heat from under the hood! It's also got the ZX vents and I'll be putting in stock ones to start with. I found a place that makes replacement vents with a NACA scoop but they've yet to provide me a price (sigh). Rise at the back isn't real high and it doesn't seem to interfere with vision of the front left corner like my Mustang cowl hood does. Car is at the bodyshop now so it'll be a bit before I have "after" pics. 'zat help? I've got some "before" pics but no place to host them 'tll I set up a server here. Can send a few if you'd like...

Here's an ignorant suggestion - would it possible to use shafts of the same length and then just use custom shafts on both sides? We'd only need 15 people then and both sides would be as strong as the other. Is that feasible? The adapters seem to be one of the sticking points too. BTW FWIW - hopped up IRS Cobras are breaking shafts and CVs left and right. Just saw a new Cougar in the shop getting new CVs too - owner NOS'ed it one time too many! Don't forget to look at the VLSD page - would the shafts he found be any sort of option or are they too different? Just tossing out ideas - I know diddly about the rear suspension but would like to make mine as storng as possible (sigh). If I tear mine up too badly I may wind up looking at a Vette' rear - Ouch$!

I'm not sure - too sharp an angle to tell to be honest. They look liek what alot of th eHonda guys are running - checkout Tire Rack and Discount tire to see if anything looks close. Personally I liek the TSW wheels on this Z -> http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/otherzs/walker/heatedpassion.html The Centerlien wheels Mike Kelly has been talking about also sound nice - the Aztecs. Have a ZX in my driveway now with swastica stock wheels all polished up, first I've ever really looked at them and I think I like it. Mike, I may end up with those wheels Aztecs too Looking at 98 Cobra wheels (cheap!) and others. Too many wheels!

Hrm, I've got one of a white car with a red stripe and of a silver car at the track. Either of those sound like what you were looking for? Have not seen one in yellow yet but owuld liek to

Ross, just an FYI - Mike has an airbox ram air type setup - he's not pulling hot air in from on top of the motor - it's coming from up front by the radiator. Hotter engine temps ought to maybe vaporize the fuel better. I really do think the engine shoudl be run warmer rather than colder. The only reason why folks with EFI engines put in cooler thermostats is because the fuel curve is richer at cooler temps and when you've done some mods the engine needs the richer fuel mixture to compensate. Tuned correctly the motor, especially with aluminum heads, ought to like hotter temps.

I'm sorry I've been so slow on this! I DO have some pics but the job isn't finished yet. Car is currently at the bodyshop getting the hood fitted and the paint done on it and the bumpers. Going to have the windshield replaced while it's over there too. Hood looks good but it's made such that it must be fitted to each car - it's slightly wider than stock. One edge of mine wasn't quite straight but a bodywork longboard will fix that right up in no time. Has been in the shop just over two weeks with no progress but they tell me that next week is the week - they got busy in a hurry and my car is there on the "friend plan" so I'm not bitching Pics when it's back and since I just got DSL I may be able to host them myself!

I'm interested in the CV conversion. If someone figures out a way to package it such that each of us don't have to do our own engineering and adapter building it would be great! There has to be bunches of us who wouold be interested in getting resplined axles etc. to alleviate fitment issues and a set of spares never hurt either. So Mike if oyu're considering it count me as an interested party...

The MSA "upgrade" appears to be nothing more than the nonvented Toyota upgrade. IMO they're getting a pretty penny for it! Go with the vented setup mentioned here -> http://24.4.88.29/ubb/Forum6/HTML/000210.html and be sure to check out SCCAs offerings. I've not yet installed the brakes and coilovers I've purchased from him but my dealings with him have been positive and his prices very competitive. If the Toyota upgrade doesn't look like it'll be good enough he's got some options over and above it that should certainly throw the anchor out! He races what he sells so he's had some good input here on what works IMO. So - please more details on that drivetrain Want lot's of pictures! (lol)

I think he's using Autometer UltraLights. I'll be using Phantoms myself. Th e2 5/8ths guages fit inthe stock holes and the 5inch tach and speedo do too. I'm still working on mounting mine as th ecar is in th epaintshop jail. Hope to have it back soon and finish the work!

Hey now - there's a relay article here on the headlight too ya' know I'm interested in the LED conversion too. One of my next tricks is to hopefully wire the side markers so that they blink with the turn signals in an alternating fashion. I spotted a 510 article for doing this but was a touch confused on how to move that over to the Z and nwo can no longer find the darned article! If this is of interest I'll look again but basicly they moved the ground for the side marker lights I think..? Hrm, what other toruble can we get into with this? P.S. Using relays will slow the high beamlow beam flash to pass type action. Not a biggie but there's some hysteresis in there (shrug).

Am going through this now. The R200 LSD I had was out of an 87_ 300ZX Turbo - flange no workie. R180 flange won't fit either I'm told. You need an R200 flange from a 280 car. I've got one but not bolted it on yet but it does matchup with the driveshaft flange I've got for the V8 swap so I'm guessing I've got the right parts Hope that helps!

It's got the TSW Trophies right? Details man! I'm looking at those wheels for my car possibly - it's the same color, same bumpers, and I want to know what mirrors those are What was done suspension wise to fit the wheels and are there any spacersinterferance issues? Nice car man! (grin)

Guess who currently has the unvented swap Not for long I hope!

Allright! Good idea Mike - some sugestions from me would be: Link to this site (smile) Picsdetails on installing the various kits so you don't have tons of e-mail asking questions. Same with the coil-over stuff. I'm going to have help with mine it looks like but more pics never hurts for someone who doesn't have help or experience. Parhaps some of you experience with wheel fitment etc. for those considering coil-overs would help close sales as well. Details on drilling the 5th lug in the rear would be good too. That's all I can think of for now but you get the idea. Information on this is hard to come by and having it out there might save you some time later on. I know I've been a PITA

Here it is -> http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/datsunzzzzcars/index.html