BLKMGK

I hear ya' on the just a few more lbs comment. My friend who pulled his Cobra motor out finally got aroound to opening it up. Mind you he had only taken it out because it was running so well that he was afraid the stock rods and pistons couldn't take it. Well when he got into it he found three brokencracked pistons and one rod slightly bent! Talk about lucky - the car was running fine but was a ticking time bomb waiting to blow. He'll have Eagle rods and forged pistons in it ASAP. Oh yeah - if anyone is running the Sanderson headers I'd love to hear how well they fit. As fo rth ecooling - goto an OEM radiator out of say a Cobra or Mark VIII, maybe a Taurus. These fans move mondo air, run two speeds, and make the aftermarket stuff look like junk. I'm gunning for a Coba fan myself.

Mike, be careful about putting the cage all the way back. In a rearend collision you want some "crush" between you and the thing hitting you to absorb force. In my case I chose not to run the bars all the way back. One of the problems aside from removing the crush area is that the impact will distort the cage around you as it takes the blow if it's all the way back IMO.

Actually from what I've heard many "equal lengths" aren't so... These sound pretty good My only measurement request would be ground clearance. Would you have had more with shorties? Does the floor pan near the collector get warm? Do you have straight or angle plug heads? Were the headers coated and if so what did you think of the job? Thanks for the info - VERY helpful! [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited September 18, 2000).]

Whoa guys - you're making this too complicated! Try this on for size: Get injector bungs from Kinsler or Electromotive. Drill and weldepoxy them into your existing single plane intake. Buy an air door from Kinsler or Electromotive - it looks a bit like a TBI type thing. Build fuel rails, add injectors, plumb fuel lines, add regulator to return line. Bolt-on TPS etc. to air door. Bolt on existing air cleaner to air door using the nice carb stud. Ta Da! Why make the 90degree bend up front at all? They sell air doors to replace carbs on converted vehicles and they flow liek mad - that's what you need. As for building a plenum - why? This is done to increase low-end torque and tune the intake - just like the long runners. We need low-end torque here like a hole in the head - yes? IF you do a TPI type deal go BIG on the plenum and runners to help kill the low end torque and increase upper end breathing. Some links to ponder-> http://www.electromotive-inc.com/fuel_system.htm http://www.electromotive-inc.com/injection.htm http://www.electromotive-inc.com/pdf_files/airdor.pdf <-READ THIS! http://www.electromotive-inc.com/pdf_files/chvmpi.pdf <complete system! I'd link some of Kinsler's stuff too but I'm not finding anything over there. Order their catalog - it costs but I'm told it's damned good and full of good toys

Matt, I agree with Pete - why not the T56? 6 gears with a .5 overdrive is pretty schweet. These puppies go into Vipers (slight mods to them) and handle bigtime HP in those cars. They can be gotten in junkyards and if they DO fail there are bound to be more people around that have the skills to fix them! Doesn't the Nash 5speed have a 1:1 5th gear? With 3.70 gears that could get old in a hurry....

Morgan - most of their belts don't have the submarine strap - this is something I want. I know stock belts don't ever have anything like that but I figure safer is better Found some other neat toys on that site though and one of their sets DOES have a submarine option so thank you very much for pointing it out! Michael - I hear ya'. Those are the sorts I've been looking at up till now. The wider strap will distribute the load better in an accident so while it's a pain it's not really a bad thing. Camlock is what I'm after too - it's a nice but expensive feature to have. Mike - where you finding belts at these days? As I recall you race seriously so you're boound to have come up with some good solutions for the Z. I'm all ears when you've got a chance to post.

Ron, I appreciate the offer but I've not yet even got my motor When I do I'll be looking at header options and may contact you about it. Given my choice - honestly - my ideal header would be something between a full length and a block hugger. Something like the shorty headers that they use on Mustangs and Camaros. I feel pretty sure that if we had enough headers to check out, say if we owned a coating service (wink), that perhaps we could find the right setup. I did note that JTR mentioned their cast manifolds coming from an older Caprice. Perhaps headers made to fit that vehicle would also work?

Get a Electromotive catalog. these folks are right up the street from me and while their stuff isn't cherap they DO sell air doors, sensors, and fuel rail stuff at a decent price. Tey even sell what looks to be a hi-flow TPI type intake for the SBC. Their stuff is distrbutorless and waste fire. their packaging leaves a bit to be desired but their datalogging is very nice IMO. They can use MAF and wide band O2 as well. Lot's of options out there. FelPro makes a system and I'm told that the BRAND NEW Holley system is supposed to be awesome but I've NOT seen enough info about it. In this case I do thnk that converting a carb intake to EFI might be a good idea. GM used long runners for intake tuning - to get torque. However they run out of air without parts form places like TPIS which are big bux. I DO liek their little miniram intake though There's also a TPI type deal that sits on a tunnel ram that ough tto flow well. Whew, as I said lot's of options! And yeah, I'd like EFI too but not till the car has run carb a little while - then maybe a blower

Honestly? Speak to Mike Kelly about this. He's been into Zs for years and I'm still learning a great deal about them. He's local to us and likely knws lot's of places I don't. I'd also say again that you shoudl contact the local VA Z club -> http://www.zcarclubnova.org/ Lot's of information there I'd bet and they could rate local shops FAR better than I could - I've never used one for my Z....

Ah yes - those carboard panels! I'd thought about putting a speaker in there but wasn't sure there was enough depth. I guess I'll have to look more seriously at it. Figure somehting out of thin laminate to replace the carboard maybe - just have to beware of the darned rollbar footer now! Bazooka in the back is a good idea - I really liek their stuff. I may build a box back there for 6X9s though, I'm not sure. Putting in carpet now. As if that wasn't hard enough I've got to trim it for the rollcage. Darned stuff is like a jigsaw puzzle with no pic to guide you! Thankfully I think I've got the pieces figured out. a friend of mine who used to lay carpet is going to come over and do the trimming for the cage - he's amazing! He did the trimming on the Mustang after it's cage and it's very neat. I'll let everyone know how effective this stuff was when I'm done - hope to know this weekend..

Thank you Pete! Actually that was very informative and now that you've explained th efoil covered stuff I better understand how it works and why DynaMat had intended that for the trunk lid I didn't weigh my box of DynaMat but I'd be shocked if it weighed more than 10lbs or so. I can handle the added weight for a nice quite sound! In the end the trunk kit allowed me to cover a great deal of the floorpan, lots of pieces in the doors, rear quarters, and basicly everywhere there was a free span of metal. If it could be tapped and just thunked or felt solid I didn't worry as much but the tin covering my fuel cell was covered on both sides! That puppy rattled like mad before I did this - now not a peep. I still have a can of foam left to use and now that it's been brought up pink attic insulation in the rear quarters might not be a bad idea. Bed liner and vinyl flooring also sound like good ideas - too late for me I'm now to the point where I've just finished with the foil covered buble wrap stuff. I've got two cans of undercoating to use in some areas underneath and carpet to put back in. I covered the tunnel, floors, and the side of the cargo bay facing the drivers area with the foil stuff. I took pics while I was at it and if this makes a big difference I'll try to write it up along with the SubtleZ hood. fun fun!

Thanks John, I am looking at those. I wondered if they were any good - do they rust at all? At least I'd be able to get rid of the scuff plates and such - icky. I hope to get it to the bodyshop next week so I've got to decide soon! Thanks man! P.S. Hey, check these out! -> http://sportscar-parts.com/mivastore/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=www.sportscar-parts.com&Product_Code=SP1606 [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited September 14, 2000).]

Datsun Power is in Sterling VA out near me - Tysons area sort of. It's a bit of a haul to say the least. I've also got no idea as to the quality of their work or the prices they charge. I would suggest you contact the Virginia Z club and ask for refrences. I'd also heed what Mike said about the repair, remember just how ugly it could be if this isn't done right. I sure hope I never hit anything in my car!

Actually my doors guts have already been chopped for speakers. However my nice door panels are intact! I think I'm going to try just rear speakers first once I find a readio (ahem). If that's not enough I may very well have to buy a sacrificial (sp?!) set of door panels and grit my teeth. As for road noise - I've got a ton of DynaMat done now and a decent amount of foil covered insulation that should also block sound. If this thing doesn't sound quieter I'll eat my hat - I've busted my butt putting this stuff in and if it doesn't work well I'll be most upset. I'll know by next week and yes I've been taking pics along the way.

10-4 on the Y harness and on the strut tower. These puppies will be mounted to the bar! Thank you from preventing me from screwing up - I really appreciate it. Now then Mike - who makes the $59 setup and is it camlock I think I owuld liek to go with camlock - cost be damned - and I'll be looking for black, possibly red. Bright colors get dirty and fade and I'm even tempted to skip the red due to dirt issues. However my seats have red tweed in them so perhaps that's a neat way to match up things

Haven't seen the pics yet - no mail for me S'okay - been in the garage doing fun stuff with insulation and whatnot. Almost done!

Mike - I've seen EFI 302s in 240Zs. One of the things that sort of determines where it all ends up is the trans. Done right the T5 handle sticks right up through the hole - if you push it back too far you'll end up with a funky driving position and having to hack up the console and tunnel. Ick! The Ford I saw had no clearance issues with the rack and used a FOX oil pan. It did seem to sit a little high to me but he was also able top use Mustang shorty headers so I guess it was a pretty good place to put it I've wondered more than once if the swept back shorty headers for say an S10 conversion would work on a SBC. Unfortunatly I have so little access to various headers I wouldn't know which to try!

Main supports in Fords - now there's a funny subject When you begin to hit 450hp - especially in something somewhat violent like a NOS car forget the mani support - goto a Motorsport block or to a 351W. Ford has been pulling metal from these blocks for years and they're pretty darned thin these days. A good friend of mine owns Excessive Motorsport East - note the East. He wrenches Mustangs all day long. At least one of his cutomers bought into the main support thing and learned what it was worth when it blew the bottom end out the pan - support still attached (mostly)! Those supports will help stop the caps from walking around but there's so little metal that the block flexes anyway at those power levels. Oh yeah - A4 block has been discontinued and were hard as hell to find anyway. I THINK they've got an R302 now that's stronger but I may be mixing that part up with another. If you want to build a Ford motor build one of their 351W setups. They sell one with a beefy block as a shortblock - but with hyper pistons. That sucker is damn near unbreakable! P.S. How much chamber volume must be removed to drop say 2 compression points? I'd guess a bunch but I just don't know and am curious.

Did those full length headers work in the JTR setback position or did it require a Scarab position? I seem to recall that Motorsport sells parts to go Scarab - yes? JTR recomended full length headers from a street rod but I don't think I've ever heard from anyone that's tried it. I'm curious as to ground clearance....

A silver bar would be sweet As for the bedliner... I actually checked out some of the spray on stuff that I saw advertised. Honestly I think that migh tbe a good idea if you could keep it under control and not have it go everywhere. It ought to damp sound well too! I worry that it might trap water under it though so be careful - you don't want your hardwork undone in a few years. Find out what heat will do to it too! I got a bit more DynaMat done tonight - I only spent an hour on it. Would you believe that I may have some left over from just the trunk kit?! Mind you I'm not going nuts trying to cover every square inch of metal - you don't need to - but geez, I've got a decent chunk left! I may do most of the tunnel with it even though I suspect it doesn't resonate very much. Much of the floorboard is covered, chunks on both rear strut towers, rear quarters, tunnel by your feet, bunches in the doors, etc. etc. I can already tell a difference when I tap on various panels that used to ring!

SCCAMike - $200 upgrade to get Billet Outlaw stuff? Oh DOH! Hrm, I guess maybe I better open a box or two - I migth have even gone for the Outlaw and just don't recall (lol). The weight difference is pretty interesting too - 6lbs right on the suspension! I don't think my car will get used hard enough to warrant the ease of rebuild the Outlaws have but that's good info to have concerning them - perhaps an upgrade in the future if that's not what I've already got I could always just fire up the buffer and polish the stock looking stuff if I had to I guess (grin). Appreciate your input - on the 240SX stuff too. I think you and I spoke aboout this too awhile back. Use the latest stuff you can when doing this sort of upgrade as you're assuring yourself parts availability down the line...

With LSD R200s being such a bitch to find it might be worth really documenting what it takes to get as later model 300ZX TT rear in there. Especially if this means that the rest of the driveline back there gets beefier too. Please get that puppy on a lift and take some pics! Any and all measurements owuld be nice. Hell, if someone has a machine shop and could tool up a few bits I'd be interested in pitching in! I've got an LSD R200 but kripes I worry it'll break too. We'll see - I'm a big forced induction freak and ATI stuff is easy for me to get so a blower could easily wind up on my car down the road. I'd like to have a driveline to handle it if possible...

Freake? Moi'? LOL! Thanks for the vote Mike - I think Hey, if I'm not sure about something I'll say so and if I don't know something I'll also say so. Quite frankly there's lot's I just plain do NOT know - especially about Zs and lot's I want to learn aboput programming fuel injection (grumble). I've seen both the D series and the P series blowers. I've got a P1200 on my Mustang now bolted to a 351W. Now, would it fit a 240? I THINK the P series would fit a 240 at least as well as a Paxton does. If it would help I can shoot a pick of it and send it to you. For that matter I might also be able to shoot a pick of a D1 blower as that's what was just put on my friend's Cobra and he's got it torn down right now. However on the Cobra it mounts bassackwards so it could be built slight different but I assume it's not. Here's what I do know - the shop I deal with has built blown 351W Mustangs more than once - including my car. The 351W is slightly wider and taller than a Ford 302. As such it moves both heads outwards and up - duh. A P series blower mounts pretty much okay in this situation - it's flexible inlet tube is slightly squished due to PS and frame clearance issues. However, IF you try a D series blower it APPEARS to stick further out to the side and required cutting of the fenderwell for head unit clearance - it was a bit ugly! It's possible that the D series mount was different. The D series blower seems to have a bigger ttransmission in it - more bulky. Reading their specs this would appear to be true - it's got a different ratio to it - higher step up so you can run larger pulleys for more (belt) traction. Looking at the blower dead on the D series appears to mount tilted out to the side more so than the P series. It might be possible to tuck it in closer but I'm not sure. Of the two the D series is supposed to be the better built blower. However on my Mustang I figured the P1200 with a billet impeller would work just fine - I didn't need a Cadillac and the bearings are brand new. Whew, does that help? If I can get pics and it'll help I will - the P series is easy as it's on my car now Look at ATI's WEB site and you might be able to see a difference too. http://www.procharger.com Oh and the "new" P1-SC blowers appear to have the D series configuration, NOT like my P series. Confusing! The models page shows the inlet side of the blowers so that's no help and I don't even see the P1200 listed anymore. Might be a special order or go with a P600 (shrug). FWIW - I'm looking at my Z wondering about a custom ATI install too. One of those big NPR intercoolers in the nose, an ATI head unit, and some form of injection. Can you say drivetrain breakage?

Heh, didn't even think of that! But doesn't POR NOT like UV? Now that it's pretty well done it looks good but geez what a pain. Be sure to pull as much stuff out as you can or mask EVERYTHING - that mist goes everywhere! Tonight I began installing the rest of the DynaMat sound deadener. There are several panels in the Z that ring like bells. Pull your interior and tap a few of them - you'll be surprised, sounds like hitting a 50gallon oil drum! I had bought the DynaMat trunk kit - smart move! Used the heat resistant stuff on the tunnel, a bunch on the tin panel covering the fuel cell (much quieter!), a pile in the doors, and now I'll be covering much of th efloor with it. Even a few squares on the cargo panels to quiet them down I'll try to take pics of it before laying carpet. There's a spot just behind the seats that angles upwards from the floor mounts - it really rings. Did the rear wheel wells, rear quarters (foam DynaMat spray too - not worth it), and will now do the floor proper. Heat gun is a must and I suggest a wood roller too. Heat it till it's really soft and roll the goo so it sticks good. Bought some foil covered insulation from the Home Depot to cover the floors and under the seats after the sound deadener - it'll quiet things too. I figure that this puppy might get warm once I run duals under it. Have yet to put foam on the cage but I will "soon". That's the easy part. Big thick racing rated stuff too - not the crap they use on A/C lines! P.S. Make sure you get under the bars. This is a place you don't usually see and have to stand on your head to view. Sure as heck - it'll be unpainted if you're not careful, trust me

In ATIs defense - dude you grenaded 4 pistons! Yuo realize that the blower receives the same oil as th emotor right? If you blew a couple of head gaskets you may also have sent coolant laden oil through the blower. Tolerances on those suckers are REALLY tight, they don't like trash in the oil at all. 15lbs also sounds high for a P600 but I'd have to check specs. Honestly though the lb rating for various pullies is crap. What you care aboout is impeller speed. Overspeed a blower an not only will the air heat up but you risk bearing damage and impeller explosion - both of which can kill a motor. Boost is a measure of intake restriction, I pretty much laugh when someone brags they have more boost than someone else - a common Mustang thing. Put a more effecient intake on a car with a centrifigul blower, change nothing, and boost will go DOWN. Strangely - power will likely rise. Why is that? You're moving the same amount of air but there's no longer as much restriction. Suddenly your 18lb pulley is only making 12lbs and some folks get angry about that (sheesh). The D series is supposed to be better. Better bearing support, stronger main shaft, etc. etc. but I have seen one D1 with bad seal problems. They replaced it after two seals blew and upon examination found a flaw in the build. That's pretty uncommon and was the last bad ATI blower I've seen. I personally liek the P series in that it didn't stick so far out to the side. If I'd done a D series on my Mustang I'd have had to cut the fender. As it is the P1200 fits fine and looks stock. Inlet hose is pinched near the frame with the wider motor but I may have that cut and boxed later DO make sure you do NOT run a cog pulley - that's bad news. As for the idler - if you were looking for the spring loaded puppy that's an added cost option and they won't have sent it. I've got one on my Mustang and it weren't cheap! Go 12rib for sure if you haven't already - lot's less slip if you really psin that puppy. Oh, the reason you were asked about FMUs was that you had said two pumps. Since he saw no crossover he figured each fed one side and that each had it's own return. Thus you'd need two of them. Personally - throw the FMUs in the trash, run the right size injectors, and have a program done for the car. FMUs are nothing but crap bandaids. Now that returnless fuel systems have begun showing up ATI and others are actually getting with it and burning custom chips. It's about time! Most fuel pumps aren't made to deadhead and if you're seeing 80lbs+ that's what's happening. Injectors also have serious issues with those kinds of pressures. In short - super high fuel pressures is just plain crazy. Thank Vortech and Paxton for that "innovation", ATI followed suit. At least Paxton has started to sell some kits with add-on injectors, that was a start even if it did spray into a manifold meant to be kept dry. Imagine blowing a fuel line at pressure, especially at 80+ WOT! Hell, I DID blow one off completely off of an injector at just 40PSI. Luckily the engine was stone cold and it was just being started - it blew fuel EVERYWHERE. Never again, I was almost a Challenger reenactment once already... So, get that ATI on the road. When you get a chance I'd like to hear about the rear you swapped in. Lot's of us are having a heck of a time finding LSDs and your solution might be of interest. P.S. 8:1 compression is darned low. You'll need big boost to really take advantageof it. Think D3 ferris wheel type blowers. 20+lbs and it's an ungodly ride. Friend is tuning one now - slowly. 600+hp at the rear wheels, has pegged his Autometer boost guage, twisted an input shaft, and blown a converter - all on the dyno 347 stroked 302 Ford too...