BLKMGK

Check for a gap between the diff and the diff bolts. I zipped mine down with an impact and still had a clunk - with a solid mount. Come to find out there was about an 1/8th inch gap and I had to really strain to get it snugged up. Once done clunk was GONE!

Sweet! Idle is down around 900RPM but a bit lumpy at that speed Idle screws don't seem to have too much authority but I think it's as good as it's going to get. Idle vaccuum is around 12PSI but that seems to be enough to run the brakes. Car even pulls when lugged down in 6th gear Tip in is fine but I suspect it's still running rich. An A/F meter ought to allow me to check that. Overall, 100% improvement in driveability now. Looks like the Saturday drive ought to go well. Hope to setup the speedo beforehand too. Once the CVs are in I hope to drive the wheels off of it

I've got one. It's not really tuned right but I can tell you that if this is poor low end performance I don't care It pulls just fine from a stop IMO. I'll know more about it's driveability when it's better tuned, hopefully tonight for a trip tomorrow, and will try to report back then. For a car as light as the Z I'm no sure that the low end grunt is as big a worry.

http://www.keithcraft.com/ Those guys built my SBC. They build MANY Ford motors and is the engine builder my friend's shop uses for anything that's NOT modular. Modular stuff gets built locally - Hyland is nutz. IMO consider a 351W or a stroked 302. I'm not sure that anyone has done the 351W yet but the added cubes can't hurt and many parts interchange with the 302. Both are good engines with the 302 being narrower and revving fasterhigher...

I'm not sue what compression is on the Z06 but from what I've read they really seem to be tweaking it pretty good to get that power. Adding a blower on top might prove to be more trouble than some would think. The latest versions of that sucker are running sodium filled valves and tons of other small tweaks to get every last pony. I'm not sure just how "restrictive those parts really are. Are the Z06 folks finding much more power or is it like the Honda guys having to buy $600 headers to get15HP? Truthfully, if 10s are your goal you don't need to have a truly sick 500HP V8. Setup a decent crate motor, say the hopped up ZZ4 motor, and slap a shot of NOS on it. That 350horse motor could hit 500 pretty quickly A pofessionally "built" motor for say 400-450horse could run around $4-5K with injection pushing that upwards. A blower or NOS would push that into the sicko' zone too. Lastly, talk to Scottie about his car. I've seen it run on the street and it's darned near out of control when the boost hits. It is also capable of decent MPG driving around which will become a consideration quickly if you want to drive any distance. Presently my car is sucking gas like mad and a 10gallon cell doesn't get you but so far in my case. His drivetrain isn't super radical and not super expensive.. Anyway, you've got options galore if you really want 10s. I think 'll start out happy getting into the 11's with a car that doesn't break all the time

I've got the blue turned down around 6PSI if I remember right. Had to fix a leak at the regulator last night too I've learned nto to ignore "small" fuel leaks. Need to check over the pump fittings in back too just to make sure nothing is loose - was fine last I looked though. All in all some of the problems I'm finding have been pretty silly. I figure I'll turn the idle mixture screws in about three turns, turn the idle speed screw in a bunch, prime it, and fire it up. Will see what the idle vaccuum is, check the timing sans the vac advance, and then tune from there. I probably did more harm than good last night but between the Car Craft article and the Holley instructions I'll get it back on track. I've not looked at jets or PVs yet, might try to tune jets after getting an O2 sensor and temporarily hooking up an A/F gauge. Fun 'n games!

Dude, you don't need to use the return key except for paragraphs - this allows the text to resize to the window while reading. Sounds like you've got a good plan. The extra 2 seats might come in handy too Keep us posted!

What slave are you using? T5 slave or what? What size is the slave?

Sounds like a 2.8 and 5speed would work best for you. It's possible the motor you've got now just needs tuning and some seals. Some of us who have swapped in V8 have drivetrains just sitting, perhaps if you filled in the portion of your profile that tells us WHERE you're located one of us could help? Hrm, for the most fun I'd go with a ZXT drivetrain if you weren't willing to go V8 or Buick GN That's more work than a straight 2.8 swap or fixing the current motor. Would be a blast to drive though!

I've seen a 302 mounted with stock FOX headers, tranny alignedshifter okay, hood capable of closing. I'm really not sure how he did it and the project was actually abandoned but it certainly looked nearly ready to roll. What did he do so differently? Mount the motor higher maybe? I think he's still got sets of mounts for it...

Rigged? I guess that's my thoughts on screwing into the plastic after having mine shot out like a bullet. I'm glad I figured out an alternative, I just wasn't comfortable with the threaded setup. I HAVE actually bottomed out my clutch with the new setup. It didn't hit the bottom of the slave but the clutch pushed away too far and I hear some "interesting" noises as the pedal hit the bottom of it's travel. I've backed the rod off some after that and the pedal isn't quite so high now. Hrm, I DID hav some problems with the clutch rod jamming a one point. This was with the threadedJB Welded screwed in fitting. When it jammed I put a pretty decent amount of pressure on the pedal trying to figure it out - it held but leaked just a bit. Considering the pressure I'd say it did petty good. Perhaps those screwing the fiting in should consider JBWeld to help seal and strengthen it? I believe I'm using the 7/8ths MC BTW.

Umm, you'll save money on brakes maybe but the diff and rear axles are not super strong. The radiator will not be big enough either. A 4.10 rear and a T56 means you'll be starting off in 2nd most of the time too. This isn't as simple as you may think and if there's one thing i've heard more than once about Granny's it's that they don't tell you everything about the swap and what it will cost. Be careful and go slow! Oh yeah - 500HP out of a SBC isn't cheap either. It won't cost what a rotary hop-up would but it won't be cheap either. Ask yourself if a 2500lb car REALLY needs 500 or more HP. That could easily end up a 10second car.... Scottie, didn't get back to you sooner as didn't see the post. Did you take pics? I've got some to share with you, lot's of turbo Miatas out here it seems!

Aw geez! I went out there tonight before heading for bed to look for my Water Wetter to put in. Couldn't find it but I spent a few minutes looking things over - puzzled that I'd had to fiddle with the idle screws so much and still had such low vaccuum. I'd also been wondering why my brakes still seemed odd - hard sometimes, softish at others. Well, I happened to notice that the blue hose for my brake booster was routed along my firewall and was straight.... except that it's supposed to curve down into the port on the carb! I followed it and found the open end. I checked the port on the carb - yup uncapped!! Someone working on the car, NOT ME, unhooked that sucker and put it under a clamp on the firewall. They never hooked it up and I never noticed. Worse, I sprayed carb cleaner under there and while it sometimes seemed as if the idle changed it was so little that I thought I was imagining things. Kripes, with a leak like that I'm surprised it ran at all! When I had the idle screw all the way out and it still idled high I wondered about a leak and even poked around some but never spotted this. I'm an idiot! I'm now going to have to retune this sucker - I'll bet the idle circuits are full rich now (sigh). Geez, when this is done it's going to run like a raped ape Hrm, I might actually be starting to understand this carb stuff too. If I hook up the A/F gauge maybe I can tune the rest of it too....

Hrm, it's better! Got the float level set a little better first. Then I lowered th eidle as far as I could with th eidle adjustment - the idle circuits were NOT responsive previously. Once th eidle was down I turned one of them to the right and the motor nearly died - good we have adjustment! I then went back and forth turning the screws OUT. I think th emechanic at the muffler shop may have turned them in some but with the idle as high as it was it did nothing. As the idle circuits were twiddled the idle speed went up and I lowered it with the screw. I actually got it to the point where the idle screw is all the way out and the idle was still above 1K. I checked the timing and turned it back some. I believe the initial is now closwer to 15 but typing this I've just realized that the vaccuum hose was hooked when I did this (doh!). Fix that tomorrow I guess, dammit. Anyway, it seems to idle a bit better but vaccuum is around 15 tops and a little rough. Will adjust timing better tomorrow and see how the idle circuits are setup. At this point I'm betting my power valve needs to be looked at too. Getting there, appreciate the suggestions, keep 'em coming!

Have you got th eJTR book? It describes ho to do this for the various years. Hint - the 240 tach must have it's guts changed out for a later model and some twiddling of a screw in back done.

Also, if I were to try and put the +20 up front instead of the +40 it would hit the wheelwell edge. I'm not sure how well a 17X8 wheel would work up front with a stock spring - go narrower IMO. Can take pics of my 240 if it will help etc. etc.

Will try to look at the idle slots tonight. Idle is as high as it is becasue I've had to turn the idle screw in to keep it up. If it gets down around 1000RPM it dies and I don't think the cam is that radical. If I turn down the advance from about 18BTDC the idle gets erratic and it dies. Will try turning the idle screw down and adjusting idle circuit for highest vaccum. What should base timing be approx.? Fords are about 10 or 12 so being as high as 18 has had me worried The Car Craft article mentioned as high as 20BTDC I think Chevies are weird! Car Craft article also seemed to call into question the power valve. I'm not sure what number I'm running right now or what my idle vaccuum is but I'll be checking that too.

Do the ZX, it requires less work. "Lesser performance"? As quick as these cars are I wouldn't worry about it too much I also wouldn't get real fancy with the headers, get a set of Hooker block huggers or whatever th eZX guys say fit and have at it. However - one caveat to all of this. You mentioned the ZX having power steering. Check the with guys that have already done the ZX conversion and find out if this will be an issue. I seem to recall that depending on year the steering canbe a real problem. Once you've confirmed this one way or another I think you'll have your answer. Don't get into bodywork and paint unless you absolutely must as it's a black hole money pit if you're not careful.

Psst, use th e"imge" button on the bottom.

Well, it's worth a shot anyway. Eastwood sells kits wiht instructions on how to do this - www.eastwoodcompany.com 40011 is their "pro" kit for $34.99 Please let us know how it works out...

Okay, took the car out tonight for the longest drive yet. No jumping on the gas just a cruise to a local Z club meeting. Yeah, the Holley blue is LOUD! Work on that later. Question - at part throttle the car bucks and pops. RPM doesn't seem to matter, part throttle is miserable. Give it gas and it takes off pretty good till I let off. Feels liek it might be missing some too as it Rs up but I'm not sure it's ignition making it jump around. What's making it pop and jump? Lean? Rich? Would it be running on the idle circuits at that point - 3K rpm or so? Power valve? Haven't checked vacuum at idle since I got all cylinders running but it's still idling at about 1500RPM (sigh). Appreciate any ideas, going to read the Car Craft carb tuning guide tonight too Just need some ideas to smooth out the part throttle and want to get the idle down. Otherwise the drive was fine. Exhaust booms and drones a little but the pump is loudest when the windows are up (lol).

I've got one of these but it's a bare gauge. Which O2 works best with it? 3 wire maybe? Got no instructions either I'm thinking a temp install for tuning might be a good idea....

Lone, Brad - my thoughts exactly - in fact I had an aborted post here earlier that said so. $200 is chicken feed and in my case was the cost of a starter I ended up ditching! Pick the car you want and can avoid emissions with Spacers, we don't need no stinking spacers Seriously, several of us have ditched the spacers and not needed the space they provide. It seems they're only good for providing space between the carb and hood and might introduce driveline angle issues....

I'm using a T56 so this might not apply but... Look at the rod on the master. Lengthening it may help you get more travel at the pedal. There's a stop that you can adjust to get a higher pedal too. I fiddled with this rod a bit in order to get the clutch to release where I wanted it to. Have you bled the master? This also gave me a soft pedal. There's a bleedscrew on the Tilton unit - attach a hose to it and run it into the resevoir up top. Once this is done pump the pedal with the bleed valve open to circulate the fluid and remove the air. Hopefully one of those ideas will help...

Tried installing the single unit they had for sale tonight. Got one clip in but th esecond refuses to collapse enough for me to clip it?! Will work on it when I've got more patience and may just go right to CVs if I can get the parts I require on Sunday. Fun and games...