BLKMGK

Umm, I think I'd like one of those in a SBC flavor please http://www.autospeed.com/A_0570/P_2/article.html

FYI - guys at DennyDriveshaft said they can do work on CV shafts. There's some parts of it they can't do like new CVs but they can shorten and lengthen shafts I think. You might want to give them a shout if you need some work done to make them fit... Keep us posted

Two choices that I know of... Wait a bit and get in on the CNC machined ones that Ross is going to setup or buy a set of Outlaw calipers form Mike w/brake brackets and then go with Wilwood spots - he's still working on that last part. Oh yeah, Mike also has some weld on ears for the SX brakes if you want to go that way - I almost did

SCCA has a set he was considering, not sure what his progress has been in hooking them up...

Hrm, but with clutch in the rear wheels spin. Sounds to me like it's not releasing and that you're stuck in gear. Stick moves fine or is "jammed"?

I've considered a switch under th epedal, probably as accuate if not more so than trying to geegaw one on the carb I also know about hiding lines under the manifold for port injection systems - bux! If I were building a sleeper street racer I'd consider it (NOS inunder the passenger seat anyone? lol). I dunno, will drive the car as-is first before I get real excited with NOS. I've got a feeling I'll have my hand's full getting used ot it as it stands anyway

Do some Google seaches - wow lot's of stuff out there! Turn signals for the mirrors anyone? Lot's of places out there selling the "wire" and some detailing how to install it but I've not yet found sheets of the stuff. My next gauge lighting excercise will be blue LEDs. If I can find a 12 volt unit I'll be VERY happy as I can fudge it into the existing bulb holders. So far fuel gauge looks great (perfect) the water temp gauge is WAL dim (?!), and the other gauges are mixed levels in between. white faced gauges (Autometer in my case) with Blu LEDs will look pretty nice but for stock overlays the EL would be AWESOME. Hrm, beware that it's vulnerable to UV. This is apparently what "ages" it. I wish Autometer would hurry up and build a line of these.... Hrm! -> http://www.autospeed.com/A_0885/page1.html Glovebox light anyone? Now THAT'S a neat idea Good article on the stuff there but it's the wire not the panels (sigh). Hrm! -> http://www.nis-knacks.com/products/b13/b13_face_plate.html http://www.3m.com/us/auto_marine_aero/automotive_oem/electrical/durel.jhtml Okay, here's a "How-To" for making gauge faces but probably for a different car. Probbaly worth checking out for this though http://russ.angrypacket.com/howto/carstuff/diy-indiglo-gauges/ And -> http://beingseentechnologies.goemerchant2.com/nscgi-bin/BeingSeenTechnologies/catalog.cgi?Department=95%20Customize%20your%20Auto%20Gauges&Cartid=700994691019&Merchant=BeingS eenTechnologies for actual kits to do this - pricey though! Looks like this URL is hitting a line length limit but you can puzzle it out - right? [ July 09, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

That's exactly what's used to make EL gauge faces Autometer WAS going to make a set of these but said that their engineers found out the stuff "aged" and faded over time. They decided this wasn't suitable for their product and halted it - drat! I really like that stuff, they're using it on foot pedals now too I spotted it in F&F on a nice RX7 and might have to track it down for my RX. If I could figure out a way to do it in my Z I would but right now for me it doesn't look doable with my Autometers. I've colored my bulbs blue for now but if Autometer ever makes those puppies I'll be all over them. Anyway, for you I think ths stuff might be worth a shot if you like it. There are sites that already have the printer files for white faced gauges - maybe print them on clear plastic to put over the EL sheeting? This stuff is getting popular and common so perhaps you can find bigger pieces for the tach and speed too? Would be a really cool project if it works out. I'd have gone with Japanese aftermarket gauges in the Z just to get that effect if they had any tachsspeedos that would work and look decent. For some reason their tachs and speedos are usually too small and darned ugly.

I'd be interested in hearing the specs on that van pump too! Down the road I expect I'll be needing a nice inline pump - is it very bulky? Pics maybe? Good to know Bosche will share their pump ratings - aren't they the ones that are stingy on injector ratings or is that another company?

A home roofing product?! Doh, who would've thunk it? That makes perfect sense though as all you're really looking for is some sort of tar like substance to dampen the vibrations. How does it smell though? I'd be worried about the fumes, especially on hot days. If it's not making a stink I think that would be an excellent idea as to hat to use. I may ocnsider doing somehting like that if I ever have my stuff ripped apart again - hopefully NOT soon!

Super, thank you for documenting the progress!! I too didn't realize the length differences there. Looks like a longer driveshaft will be required Shorter is no big deal since an existing one can always be cut but longer means a new shaft - boo! Still, for the added strength this is good information. No worries on the redrilled moustache bar? I din't notice - where did you source the CV shafts? will be checking out the site with GREAT interest! Please keep us up to date, sounds like you're making good progress! Which ratio did you go for?

Hrm, I think the regular Tremec would be fine. They had troubles shearing the input shaft on high output apps at the track with the standard one and the TKO has some different friction material on th clutches inside but overal I think there aren't too many differences. Hanlon Motorsports is the place to call to find out for sure. Bob Hanlon rebuilt my Tremec many moons ago and is a SUPER guy to talk to. He races a 5.0 shifting it the whole way - he races what he sells and KNOWS what will hold up

No way is a built motor going to go 7K with an OEM TPI setup. I'm not even sure the aftermarket runers will get you that high! Head over to the TPI site and read up on their intake, I'm not sure IT makes it as high as 7K! OEM SBCs couldn't hardly get to 6K with those intakes if memory serves and you've still not said if this is off of a 350 or a 305 - makes a difference! To each his own but if I was shooting for a high RPM motor like that I'd be welding injector bugs into a nasty wicked single plane CARB intake, buying a nice TB, building rails, and injecting it that way rather than fooling with OEM TPIs. There comes a point where trying to go cheap simply doesn't cut it. If you're not going to be able to afford to do the EFI right for the power range you want stick to cheaper carbs - you'll be bux ahead. As expensive as the TPIS intake is I'm considering converting my carb intake to EFI too. I go back and forth on it to be honest. The throttle body isn't cheap and neither is the labor but... The TPIS looks darned nice though But by the time you add it all up it really is pretty pricey.

Hrm, there are several ignition boxes out there that have timing control. MSD, Accell, Holley all have them. I think MSD may even make a box that just pulls timing - hook it's power to a microswitch and you ought to be good to go There's a couple of ways to do this... 200 horse shot? Umm, I think I'd stat with 75 and work upwards. Seriously, the hit is instant! I once rode in a car with a big hit, possibly over 200. At about 5mph in 1st it fried the tires, same thing in 2nd (still 5mph), 3rd, 4th, and ouch - we did 5th! We never got the car over about 20mph! The power delivery was simply sick - instant power that would fry the tires on command. Needles to say this guy couldn't juice it out of the hole and is the same guy I mentioned elsewhere racing bikes and winning. Car that gave him the best run on the back then was an EFI Vette that also was juiced (lol). I'm SERIOUSLY considering a bottle for my car too but I'll sneak up on the power and if I want as much as 200 I'll probably go 2 stages. There's just no sense in abusing the drivetrain with that had a hit IMO. Stub axles, halfshafts... I think I want them all in one piece Keep the NOS advice coming guys, I'm all ars. I'd also be VERY interested to learn how to best hide it in a Z install. I'm thinking LONG lines to remotely mounted solenoids and maybe some heater hoses. I don't mind a softer hit from the gas rather than liquid NOS and I could always prime it if I wanted... There's a couple of good books out there on this stuff BTW guys, not sure where my copy is though (grr). Heh, I need NOS, no TWO bottles!

If you shift it softly and don't beat on it the trans MIGHT survive. Mine did behind a twin turbo 302 for well over a year - then I beat on it one day. Next day third took a hike. Buy a Tremec, in the long run you'll be better off. Speed shifting DOES make a difference. This is whay C&D can get one time out of a press car but MM&FF or one of the Chevy mags can usually cut at least a half second off their times. The MM&FF guys even mentioned this in one of their mags wondering just what the heck the C&D guys did when they test drove cars If you're going to drag race it buy a stronger trans. The T5 shifts nicer but the Tremec IS stronger - it's what I ended up with in the Mustang...

The belts I've got have mounts that screw into the stock boltt holes. These are Simpson eye bolts - same as what you see in Jeg's I think. Am actually about to order a couple more though as the eye bolts I've got fit but I've not got the clip for the darned belts - doh!

Waste gate should be reading manifold pressure, not anything in the piping leading from the turbo....

I think Tim nailed this one! The beauty of turbos is that they compensate via the wastegate for things like changes in elevation or moreless restriction in the intake.

I believe the glass with the lines running up and down is a rare piece. You might want to snag it and see what someone else who's doing a resto would pay for it

Most of the LSD come in a 3.7 ratio "stock". You can get deeper ratios from other cars using an R230 rear (late 300ZX) but I don't think you can get anything stock that's 3.36. You'd have to put somehting together and I don't know how feasible that is as there are issues with ring bolt size. If you do a search here you'll find some folks working on those issues using spacers etc. As for what's "best" for your app - provide some details, I don't memorize what everyone is running generally. What are your goals? What motor? A 3.7 rear tends to be a pretty decent all around gear for a car with an OD gear IMO. Some of us need to go 3.3 series like Scottie but his is a special case. Others are looking for 4 series gears but with a trans that has as low a 1st as yours probably does and the T56 I think you wouldn't be happy with that. 3.54 seems pretty common but it's not available stock in LSD that I know of. This is an R200 right?

Dave, any chance you could post a pic of that setup? Sounds interesting and a good possible solution using an off the shelf part. Thanks!

Is it from a 305 or 350CI engine? OEM TPI tend to be restrictive in both cases as they were built to achieve torque not HP and generally run out of breath before hitting 6K in stock form. Also, does it come with EVERYTHING or does it need a pile of sensors and bolts? It can get quite expensive chasing misc. parts for those things. I dunno', I think I'd save up for a TPIS miniram or a converted carb intake if you'rew going to see serious HP and any upper end RPMs. It would certainly work but it wouldn't be optimal (shrug).

Hrm, I THINK the bellhousing on mine is all one piece but I'm not sure. Pulling that puppy without pulling the motor might also be "fun". Looking at mine I'm not sure how happy I would be if I have to pull that trans anytime soon (fingers crossed!). I hope it doesn't come to that for either of us! I can't see where either of the mods you've done would cause this problem.... Replacing the lockout springs works? I had hoped it might and didn't realize how stiff mine was until the other day. I suppose I shodl b considering this mod, late as it is. The woman will never be able to get this puppy in reverse if she has to drive it if I shorten the stick. I'm tempted to put power to the silly solenoid - what a PITA! Anyone find a decent shift knob for this beast?

Hrm, I can't help but wonder if a ZXT swap might be a better cheaper option. I chatted with a guy the other day that said people were actually GIVING him older beat up ZXTs so I'm sure you could find one cheap enough to yank the drivetrain from. I have to admit that in some ways I almost wish I'd done one of those swaps just so I could tinker with a turbo motor Hrm, second Z perhaps? (lol)

Shoot them to me but if they're HUGE in file size send me a noe offline for a better address. I'll shrink them down and post them on my site for linking here. I'll be out of town starting this coming Tuesday for a week so if it's not this weekend it might have to wait (shrug).