BLKMGK

Is the wet kit a plate kit? If from a 94 I'm betting it's got an EFI plate. You'd have to do some swapping around of parts to maye get a single nozzle on it but it shoudl work if given the righ tparts. However it occurs ot me that if lag is the only problem perhaps there's a better way. Why is is lagging? Is the exhaust corked up or what? How bad is the lag? If you figure out the real problem and solve it the solution will be there full time. And then you can add the NOS P.S. Went to see Fast and Furious huh? [ August 03, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

LOL, just you wait - 5mins after that puppy is sold someone will want it! Scottie has posted abut GN drivetrains being for sale on other boards here a few times and they're always snapped up real quickly. I do wish a stick were a little easierbettersuited with that drivetrain as I don't much like autos but that sure would be a nice combo. Too bad my V8 swap is nearly done else I'd have been REAL tempted after having seen Scottie's car...

Got my Sebring muffler today. VERY nice but I swear it looks like a stainless glasspack. Will be interesting to see how loud it ends up being

I'll simply echo - R200 is NOT a problem. It's about the same diameter as the 'vette ring as a matter of fact. Scottie is swapping because he needs low gears - like a 3.07 (!) in order to keep from hitting OVERDRIVE on the track. He's in third right now before the 1/8th mile mark. He's broken an R200 part or two but not many and he's putting out BIG power. Skip the Quaife too - too much money. Go see Scottie and chat, he'll set you straight and his house is really pretty!

Use the search, it's your friend and will yield quite a bit of information...

I'm throwing in the towel. It's going in for an exhaust tomorrow and while it's there starter shimming and timing setting will be ordered up. I've turned th emotor over until it hit 10degrees, set the distributor to fire, and cranked. It almost fires but the starter kicks out and it dies. I've shimmed a couple of different ways but on my back with no room it's a bear. On a lift it would be cake! I don't want to trash this flywheel if I can help it. Oh, and I still see a fireball out the top every so often. No aircleaner on it so I get to see the full display. No one but me around to work on it so working the jumper wire, the throttle, a timing light, and twisting the distributor is a no-go. Muffler (thank you Mike!) and mandral bend showed up today. The only things missing are an exhaust system and two braided brake lines. My fingers are crossed that the brake lines show up tomorrow! Trailer is unavailable due to a dyno delivery. I'll be having to order up a rollback ($$). I hope to get the trailer for the ruturn ride home. Wish me luck!

I'm not positive but I believe that anti-sieze is a conductor. I'm not sure that's what's wanted here - is it?

Here's my take on this... A turbo motor is probably going to get you where you want to be easiest. I don't know much about the turbo L6 but it sounds like a straightforward swap. You can get 250 out of it I'm sure with some work and some help. However, IMO, 250 will be "fun" for all of about 3 months. At that point some warmed over Honda, pimped out Mustang, or stock Z28 will clean your clock and you'll be upsewt. 250HP these days isn't much, stock V6 motors in family cars make nearly that much in some cases! You'll want more power and at some point your mileage will go bye bye and you'll begin pouring money into it. If you want good driveability, decent MPG, and the ability to turn the wisck up without blowing a zillion I suggest you consider the Buick GN drivetrain for sale in the Buick forum. Scottie is local(ish) to you and has done this - a serious advantage! he knows the electronics and would be able to advise you. Scottie gets decent MPG with his car when it's just cruising but lays down the hurt on most everything at the track. Yuo don't need to go as fast as he is but you'd be able to do it if the bug hit. Yeah, you'd probably run an automatic and you might not like that but it would FLY. You could do a stick too but I'm not sure the results would make you happy. A mild V8 works too but mileage might not thrill you and when the wick is turned up it'll take more "hard parts" than the GN drivetrain. Mileage will suffer then too. The GN motor comes with EFI, mild V8 will probably be carbed. In Florida that's probably not that bad but in colder climates carbs are a PITA. My .05

Okay, will try getting it to 14 degrees and see. I HAVE tried spinning it over with the ignition off - it seems to spin fine! It only appears to really "kick" when the ignition is trying to fire the motor. Almost like it's pushing the motor the wrong way..? Scotty, this is the GM starter used in the Impalla SS which IS an LT1. However if it's 10lbs lighter than a regular GM starter I'm scared - this isn't exactly a lightweight. I owe you e-mail anyway so I'll get in touch with you today. I'm off and will be headed over to my friend's shop to see about some assistance. It could be something easy for him and something stupid that I'm missing here. I've not had to set timing on "new" motors but maybe once or twice so it's quite possible I've done something in ignorance.

Okay, I'm frustrated. Tried one shim on outside, tried two shim on outside, tried a single shim under both sides. I cannot tell any appreciable difference at all. I cannot get in there to see what's going on. Very edge of flywheel shows a little wear. I cannot tell if it's too far away or if it's too close and not fully extendingengaging. I think I'm giving up for the night. Will speak to my mechanic friend tomorrow, receive much grief, and hope that maybe he can help. Once the exhaust goes on the starter looks like it'll be MUCH harder to get to... [update] Okay, I might have an idea here. No matter what I do the starter kicks out as soon as the motor begines to fire. On top of that I'm still seeing a ball of flame or two through the carb. I'm wondering if perhaps the timing is STILL screwed up. When I timed it last I cranked until I felt pressure building on #1 and let off the key. At that moment the balancer showed TDC - I've confirmed that TDC on balancer is highest point of travel upwards on #1. When I last did this I pulled the cap and found the rotor way off - 180+. What I'm thinking now is that perhaps the motor is kicking back and tryng to fire backwards - fighting the starter? If it weren't for the spectacular fireballs I'm seeing every now and again I wouldn't believe this to be true but... Plug wires are correct, I've triple checked. So close, yet so far! Am giving up for the night and will speak to mechanic friend tomorrow. He'll give me no end of grief but I might get some assistance on this and the timing issue. This doesn't look encouraging -> http://pub29.ezboard.com/ffloridadragracingfrm5.showMessage?topicID=56.topic [ August 01, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

The beuty of titanium, in this case, is it's looks. Aluminum is pretty nice looking but titanium apparently has some really neat coloring. if it wasn't a zillion bux I'd consider it but $160 for a simple shift knob is really a bit off the map for my budget

I believe that this month's Car Craft may have a shot of a radiator cap with one of those anodes in it. I'll try to dig it up but I KNOW I've seen one in the last week pictured. It's manufacturer should be listed in one of the sidebars...

I saw those CVRs and was cnsidering one but will try to get this ne working first. I've got a Help! shim pack and am about to head to the garage - what fun! Neither brake lines nor mandral bend nor muffler showed up today. Tomorrow should see a bumper crop. On a down side the exhaust shop isn't sure what Friday looks like and wants me to call back tomorrow. If everything is here and looking good and they can't take me I'll be upset and might look for another shop. I'd hate to do that but time's a wasting and they don't work Saturdays Starter shim first, we'll see how it goes. Sure does seem kind of screwy to have to do this though!

I can pull the metal shield to get in there and have a peek, I'm not sure how good a view I'll get of it though. Ths starter is an OEM one with both ends of the gear supported and protected by a cast hood. I'm told that starter shims are common on GM cars - nice. On the plus side I'll be able to find them easily and they should be cheap! So, the bolt that's on the outside towards the frame rail whenshimmed raises the gear towards the flywheel. The other bolt then would obviously pull it away. To me it sounds like it's not fully engaging and needs to be pulled closer but I'm told by coworkers that this is probably not the case. I'm told that it's not engaging all the way beacause the nose of the gear is hitting preventing it from fully extending. Honestly I'm not sure but the advice here seems ot jive with what I think - that's it' too far away. I will try to measure to be sure (sigh). Really appreciate the advice. Am asking opinions everywhere today Want it to be ready to drive darn it (lol). Might leave work early to tinker wiht it too!

Truly stupid question - how do I get the bendix to manually engage? The poutside bolts brrings it closer? Seems bassackwards but I'm obviously pretty ignorant about starters! And thank you, I was really in a panic and about to express a damned starter

Yes, I sectioned mine. Pics are on my site. Required a nasty chop saw, some grinding, and a good welder - not me When done I actually wished that I had sectioned it more! It still required a little push to get up there but overall there was no bashing. with the exception of cutting out the old trans mount my tunnel is pretty much unmolested with a T56 in there....

I've mentioned this to a friend offline. He says he had to shim his GM starter. To me it almost sounds like the starter isn't coming close enough to the flywheel, not that it's too close? Would a shim be worthwhile to try or should I grit my teeth and overnight a Tilton, CSI, or TCI starter from Jeg's? I REALLY want to get it on the road for Saturday night and grinding a starter leaving the local cruise is just sooo uncool! I'm used to Ford stuff, stick starter in hole, run bolts up, turn key. NEVER had a Ford starter problem but then again I'm still using my 13 year old original 302 starter! Heeelp! and yes, I was up half the night tossing and turning over this [ August 01, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Beware, friend of mine saw a Camaro running around with a pair of mufflers in the Apex style. He said it was louder than hell! That was enough for me, I'd like something somewhat quiet and the 200 bones the Apex go for hurts! However MikeSCCA found a company making mufflers that might work - Sebringtuning. They make a stainless muffler with a 3 inch inlet outlet in two sizes, 18inches and 14inches. The 18 doesn't come polished but the 14 does. Mike setup the 18 and from what I heard on the phone it's not too bad but fitting is a little tough. Since I want something already polished and since the 18 was out of stock I'm getting the 14. Apparently the company says it's not much different sound-wise and it ought to fit easier. I hope to find out Friday if all parts are here etc. and my starter woes are figured out. I don't have an easy way to post sound files but if I can figure it out I will... Oh, these suckers are less than $150 unless you push shipping I think Mike's got pics of his installed up already. BIG pipe!

well, IF I get mine onthe road this coming weekend it looks like I'll have to make the orunds meeting everyone in the area I can hardly wait to put some miles on mine and if it all works out you'll get a chance to see the same sort of brake install on my car that Mike is doing. This sucker ought to stop HARD! we'll see - I'm thinking I may yet have booster and master changes i my future but I'm waiting to see. May have brakes bled tonight if parts show up on time. Friday is exhaust install time, cross your fingers. And yes, it does sound like you have quite the piece of history there! You'll have to get out to the Saturday night cruise here in Manassas. We get MANY cars out there and a good time is had by all - bit of a hike though. Mike has made it at least once so it's doable I'd think. Try to preserve any piecs you take off too as you never know wether or not it might become a valuable collector's car

Okay, I've nearly got it running I double checked th etiming all over again. I thought sure it was right but when I cranked, got pressure, let off, then checked it was about 200 degrees off (ahem). Previously I had swung it 180 thinking it was wrong - duh! Okay, so now it's pretty close and it's making all the right sounds. Just one problem, when the engine "kicks" the starter will disengage form the ring or deflect enough that it makes gawdawful sounds. Waaah! I pulled the starter, teeth still look fine thank goodness, so does the flywheel. However it's not reliable and I can't allow this to continue. What can I do? This is a GM OEM starter from a late model CarpiceImpalla SS type application per JTR. No shimming involved, it just bolts on... and if I shimmed it I think that would make it worse, wouldn't it? It looks like maybe the nose doesn't stick in far enough but honestly I'm not sure. There's no real "play" on the bolts at all. Would removing the flywheel dust shield possibly help? I don't think it's hanging on that though... So close, yet so far. I'll buy an aftermarket starter if that will fix this, I simply want it to start reliably is all! If the starter would crank correctly I could get a decent timing reading and maybe break it in! Friday still looks to be exhaust day but it'll probably have to come home on a trailer at this rate. Actually, it will anyway - no way am I going to make a maiden voyage that far without a few close in check outs. I already found a fitting that had sprung loose on the carb and leaked some fuel! Anyone else had this problem? T56 trans, late model block, Centerforce flywheel. Mikelly, any troubles like this?

I paid $500 for mine... That's the correct year and it's a ZXT so it should be an LSD of some sort. Don't know the part number but it should have a finned aluminum cover and NOT have come out of an all white car (including the rims). good luck!

Stock shifter consists of a small "stub" sticking up from the trans with a second "stick" bolted to it ala Mustang T5. The B&M shifter has no such bolts - it's 4 bolts onto the trans and that's it. No stub, no stick, just a long stainless shaft that bends upwards. I could cut it and have the shaft turned but then it would need welding and it's solid stainless - bleah. It's actually going to work out I think - matt black knob 2.25 inches around for $36. Not too bad all things considered. Titanium is something like $160 - no thanks

I've nto ever owned a car that's been run through one of those places but I've had friends that have. Yeah, there were some bad spots and some poor prep but overall it looked opkay and better than the crap they had before it was done. Not everyone has the money for a really good paint job an dthis is why I've said start with a nice bodypaint - it's cheaper in the long run. However if you've got the car and simply must keep it then this is an option. Maybe not one that will make it win prizes but at 12:00 at night when you line up next to a punk in a Honda that will make it just that much sweeter won't it?

They seem to be pretty modular but it's not an easy task to build a new crank A 3 rotor motor CAN be found from a JDM Cosmo I believe - with turbos if memory serves. Can you say SICK power?! The two rotor with a turbo is actually pretty torquey I think, moves along nicely. With some decent engine access pulling it and fixing broken stuff would sure be easier! Hrm, FD3 T motor perhaps? I think my next project might be a turbo rotary 510. We'll see. I could deal with a GN motor too or maybe a turbo L6. I've got to get the Mustang running and decide if I'm going to keep it though. Selling it would be stupid but lately I've just not had much interest in it and it's taking up room. The woman says no more cars (lol). I speak and she just says "lalalala"! We'll see,got to get the Z on the road first before I explode in anticipation.

Yeah, it would swim! Check out the size of this motor, the trans is nearly the same size! Sans brackets and manifolds it's pretty small, no? This is from a 510 site (I want a rotary 510!). Heck, I want a 510 period. Check out the size though - the Z bay would swallow it and look for another Scoobie snack! I wonder just how hard a 3 rotor would be to find and stick in there?